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Muzzy Phantom?

TheMadCatter

TheMadCatter

Well-Known Member
My friends are now giving me crap for buying these and saying they're really bad broadheads? Is it true? I think I should have gotten rages :/ I'm hunting tomorrow with a Bow so I'd really like to know if it's a good idea to shot a Deer with this broadhead.
 
Don't believe everything you here. The phantoms are a great cut on contact head. As long as they are flying true out of your bow they will be devistating. Go get em tomorrow and have confidence! :way:
 
Ask your friends what they;ll think when there rages don't open up all the way or open in flight and cause your arrow to fly like a kite with out a tail. You oicked one of the best fixed blade broad heads out there . You friends are full of CRAP !!!!!
 
Anything made by Muzzy is a fantastic broadhead, your buddies are watching too much TV.
 
As long as your arrow flys straight it don't matter. You hit him right he will die, period. I bought some $3 broadheads from Wal-Mart when I just started bow hunting. I killed a doe at 30 yds with a 40 lb bow. The arrow went all the way and landed 5 yds the other side the deer! It's all in the shot placement.

arrow flinger
 
They likely shot them or had somebody else shoot them, out of an un-tuned bow and they flew all over the place. Mechanicals can mask bad tunes and cause their own issues, but many think they shoot better because of that. This is true, but a bandaid for the real issue.

They are a great head and will out penetrate nearly all mechanicals in most cases.

I always try to tune my bow with the biggest/nastiest head I can find or tune it with out any fletches and a field point (bareshaft tune).

Once you do that you can shoot any head efficiently-mechanical or otherwise:)

Sharp and accurate kills no matter the head :way:
 
huntyak said:
They likely shot them or had somebody else shoot them, out of an un-tuned bow and they flew all over the place. Mechanicals can mask bad tunes and cause their own issues, but many think they shoot better because of that. This is true, but a bandaid for the real issue.

They are a great head and will out penetrate nearly all mechanicals in most cases.

I always try to tune my bow with the biggest/nastiest head I can find or tune it with out any fletches and a field point (bareshaft tune).

Once you do that you can shoot any head efficiently-mechanical or otherwise:)

Sharp and accurate kills no matter the head :way:
Click to expand...


which way are you tuning your bow?
 
I start by spraying one arrow with foot pwder to see if I have any contact on my drop away or strings.

Then, i shoot 1-2 arrows through paper to get "somewhat close" but dont worry if not perfect bullet hole.

Then I shoot a field tip arrow at the same spot with the same pin at 20, 30, 40 to even further fine tune my center shot (ie french or walk back tune) If my arrows angle to the left, i move my rest to the right and vice versa until i get a relatively vertica line with the arrows I shoot, at the same spot, with the same pin, and different distances.

Then I sight in my twenty with a FP and then...shoot two broadhead tipped arrows, followed by two field point tipped shafts. If the BH and FP DONT hit the same spot-Im not tuned. I simply adjust my rest, always moving my rest in the direction of the fieldpoints, until both hit same POI.

Once I accomplish this, I know I am tuned and can usually screw on any head and hit same POI out to 40-50 yards. Past that some drop is noticed as the blades pick up a bit more wind it seems. If FBBH plane, one must remember they are in and of themselves "baby" fletchings, and if they come off at anything but directly in line with the string, they will go in the direction they start in, more so with BIG NASTY Heads as those will "steer" them that way. Thats why you dont notice it with FP or mechanicals because the fletchings take over.

Takes about 20 minutes and one can also skip the BH tune, and use a bareshaft (FP and no fletching) to tune as if there is no fletch...you better come off straight or its agtrain wreck! if you can do that...your tuned :way:
 
You have to make sure to use your sight level when walk back tuning. And just like paper tuning you have to keep good form

Mobile Cooter
 
Cooter said:
You have to make sure to use your sight level when walk back tuning. And just like paper tuning you have to keep good form

Mobile Cooter
Click to expand...

I agree- but one must adjust it so that the bubble on the sight corresponds to the bow being plumb to ground. I use a hamskea tool, or you can buy any bubble to adjust the second axis on the sight so that it AND the bubble on the bow are equal when the bow is upright. The second axis, if not adjusted, can affect accuracy at long ranges and especially on side hills where it is VERY important. But..if You don't level the second axis and assume it is plumb with the ground out of the box once placed on your bow via the sight, your "straight" bubble may in fact be off, and the " angled" on :D
 
All I"ve ever done is paper and that was a few weeks ago for the first time after haveing the same bow for that last 6 years. Fletching was center punched on shots so figured I was good. Will try a little more indepth next. My groups are pretty good out to 50 with FP, but BH get quite a bit larger. Hope this helps...
 
Yep, could be just a minor adjustment will tighten them up. Spine becomes more important with fixed balde heads, and the problem with paper is that it only gives you a 'snap shot' of what the arrow is doing at that particular distance. Move back 2 feet and often it changes again.

The "Cliff Notes" and the Nice thing about BH tune is that all one really has to do is have 4 arrows, 2 field points, 2 with fixed heads and a bale at 20 yards.

1)Shoot the two FBBH first (so you dont shred your fletching with the broadheads), and say your two BH arrows are 4" left of the bulls eye, and your FP are dead center. Many will just sight in broadheads but that is the wrong move IMO.

2)Simply move your rest 1/16" inch to the right (chase the FP), then shoot 4 more arrows. The field points obviously will now hit right of center because you moved the rest BUT dont worry...the BH will now be maybe 1" to the left of the FP and the two groups are shrinking. :)

3)Keep moving the rest ever so slightly until all arrows hit the same spot (and always adjust vertical issues before horizontal..again chasing the FP)

4)Eventually they all hit same POI (point of impact), even if that point is almost off the bale.

5) Then, and only then, do I re-sight my pins.

Now, I can use any mechanical or fixed blade broadhead of the same weight that I want. Hope that helps. :)
 
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