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Sighting in a scope

SCOFFIN

SCOFFIN

Miles Coffin
I need some help here. Last year I bought a Traditions Buckstalker 50 cal muzzleloader that came with a scope on it. First Muzzy, I just wanted one, so I bought this one.. Price was right. Well, I've been struggling with the scope adjustments. I was told that you move your adjustments in the direction you want the bullet to move on your target. So, If I missed to the left of center, I need to move the adjustment to the Right. Same with Up and Down. Missing Up, move down.

Well, the scope on this thing seems to work this way for the Up/Down adjustment, but the Left/Right doesn't seem to work correctly. If I'm missing Left, I tried adjusting to the right and I kept missing further left. So, I started adjusting it to the Left direction and got it back closer to center. This just seems freaking wierd to me. Do you think the scope is defective? It could be my shooting, but I can't be off that many times from a decent stable rest..

Any thoughts besides telling me to buy a better gun/scope combo??
 
Typically, yes, scope adjustments should be the exact opposite of bow site adjustments and you are doing what you are supposed to do because you are moving the rear of the scope to your point of impact. I've never heard of a scope designed to move the front end. I had a buddy with a Burris several years ago did the same thing. I don't know what he ended up doing with his, but we bantered back and forth for an entire elk hunt. Not to be mean or disrepectful, but is there any chance you have the scope backwards, which could cause that (I asked my buddy the same question just to cover all the bases). If its properly mounted, then it sounds like you should send the scope in to the manufacturer for warranty repair because the windage adjustment is backwards.
 
The scope came pre mounted and looks accurate with the direction its facing. My plan was to get it centered up and be done with it. Just didn't want to waste ammo the next time I decide to shoot a different bullet. Thanks for the feedback..
 
You can pick up a Bore sighter for relatively cheap. They are worth the money and will get you close before you ever fo to the range. Shoot once at 50 yards and see if you are "on paper" and then proceed to longer ranges. The bore sighter also allows you to see which way your cross hairs are moving for cases like yours.
 
Absolute easiest way I've found to sight in a scope is use a leadsled.. put your crosshairs dead on the bullseye.. shoot.. after you've shot, readjust your weapon if you have to to put your crosshairs back on the bullseye and without moving your weapon adjust your crosshairs so they are dead on your impact hole.. you will sight in anything with one shot every time, granted you don't have wind as a factor
 
The boresighter will definitely help you figure out your crosshair movement and is a good idea, especially if you need to figure out the overall problem to have the scope sent back in. Airassault also has a good suggestion to get sighted in quickly, however, I would recommend at least 2 shots to make sure they are grouping and eliminate any chance of human error. Even with a leadsled and various other rests, I've managed to pull a shot and I do a lot of shooting due to my handloading. But from your description, it still sounds like your scope is not working properly and that's the bigger issue. You can probably get it sighted in to work using either method above, but after the season is over, you need to consider sending it in to fix the overall problem. I almost forgot about a similar situation. I have a great Zeiss scope that I had to move 8 clicks to get it to move 1" (should only be 4 clicks on that scope). I sent it back and the reticle and dials were messed up from the factory. They fixed it, no problem. Good luck!
 
Great tips, thanks for the help..

One more question.. I'm no math wizzard here and if 1 click is 1/4 inch at 100 yards, how many clicks if I'm only shooting my first shot at 25 or if I move it out to 50 yards. I like to start super close them move out. And I know in many cases the bullet is still going up (and I've seen that debated on here too) which I take that into account with the horizontal adjustments at close range..
 
That's a darn good question! I usually do all my work at 100 yards and beyond, but I always follow the rule of thumb that 4 clicks is 1 inch under the MOA idea. I would think that it will still work at 50 yards (4 clicks/inch). If you use a bore sighter, it will put you in very close proximity at 100 yards. Good luck!
 
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One thing I would be certain to check regardless of which way you have to turn the nobs to get it sighted in is, does it hold its zero? If it does not hold a zero, I would chalk it up to a cheap "packaged" scope/gun setup. If you have problems keeping it zeroed, I would send it back or put it on a small caliber gun and get a better scope.

If you are sighting in at 25 yards, 1 click should equal 1/16", at 50 yards, 1 click = 1/8".

good luck!
 
LYON said:
One thing I would be certain to check regardless of which way you have to turn the nobs to get it sighted in is, does it hold its zero? If it does not hold a zero, I would chalk it up to a cheap "packaged" scope/gun setup. If you have problems keeping it zeroed, I would send it back or put it on a small caliber gun and get a better scope.


good luck!
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I've had it happen where the scope does something similar to what scoffin is talking about where it moves the wrong way. However, the internals of the scope was actually loose and it would walk its way back to the opposite direction with the recoil of the gun. I don't know if that's what's happening with the scope but just an experience I've had with a cheaper scope. It could be something as simple as they installed the L to R sticker from another model that happens to be opposite. I highly doubt that the threads would match up if it was incorrect but it could happen I suppose.
 
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