OneCam
Well-Known Member
When I first began rattling antlers many years ago, it added a whole new, exciting dimension to my bowhunting for whitetails. Back then, my attempts to rattle in bucks were not nearly as successful as they are today. I do all my rattling from treestands. Over the years, I've learned many things which can help you rattle in and hopefully harvest a trophy buck. While I rattle in many bucks each year here in Iowa, most of these are 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 years of age. I agree with the fact that a fairly even buck-to-doe ratio is important for overall rattling success throughout the season. However, if you want to put our tag on a trophy buck, meaning a deer 3-1/2 years of age and older, I believe timing and the message you are sending at the time are more critical to bringing a big buck to within bow range.
Shed Hunting in the spring like my friend, Mark Mincks in photo, not only tells you the caliber of bucks you will be hunting, but provides you with the tools (rattling horns) to harvest them.
While there may be only two or three rattling techniques used, such as light sparring, hard rattling, or raking trees and brush, there are actually five time frames when you must imitate what is going on out in the deer's environment. For the purpose of this article, I have identified these as early pre-rut, late pre-rut, beginning of peak rut, end of peak rut, and post rut. To simulate these time frames, you must get inside a buck's head or frame of mind, so to speak. By observing bucks throughout the season and analyzing what they are doing at the times of the sightings, you can identify these five periods, and by doing so, I would be willing to bet your success rate on bringing in the bigger bucks will increase dramatically while rattling.
EARLY PRE-RUT:
This time period would be from the time bow season begins here in Iowa on October 1st until approximately the end of the third week in October. A buck's attitude in this time frame ranges from being sociable towards other bucks, with some still in small bachelor groups during the first and second weeks, to increasing aggressiveness during the third week as testosterone levels rise.
This Illinois buck was taken by the author in photograph on October 6, 1999, during the pre-rut period at last light with very light sparring. Also pictured, Shawn Webb. (Photo by Mike Webb)
Rattling efforts should be limited to lightly tickling antler tips together in the first week to very light sparring in the second week to heavier sparring in the third week. Light sparring is simply locking your rattling antlers together lightly, pausing for one to two seconds, and then slowly, but softly, twisting them back and forth, this time pausing every three to four seconds. Heavier sparring is the same, but with more force. Grip the antlers more tightly and add some grinding motions after locking up before sparring. This simulates two bucks in a pushing match. During the third week, pick up your speed and volume while sparring as the bucks are becoming more aggressive now. I use 125-130 class sheds for rattling at this time, but later in the rut period, I would use heavier sheds. These methods should cover this pre-rut time frame and a buck's increasing mood swings during this time.
LATE PRE-RUT:
This time frame is from the third week of October until the first few does come into estrous during the first week of November. These dates are not set in stone because each year will vary slightly. I've seen estrous does in the third week of October before.
Bucks at this stage are definitely developing an "attitude". They are growing more and more frustrated awaiting the arrival of an estrous doe. Buck movement picks up as they begin to search out local doe groups. They are making scrapes and are more likely to be seen during legal shooting hours. They are highly anticipating the rut to come. It is nature's way and it is their calling. Big bucks are very vulnerable to rattling at this time. This is one of the time frames when your chances of rattling in and taking a big buck are the best. At this time, I switch from the lighter sheds to my 150-class sheds which have a lot of mass and can be heard for up to one-half mile on quiet mornings. The heavier sheds seem to bring in the bigger bucks at this time. I feel this is because you cannot imitate an all out dominant buck fight with smaller antlers. These heavy sheds may intimidate smaller bucks, but I'm not targeting them anyway. Hang your bow on a bow hook within easy reach with an arrow nocked. It's time to get serious!!!
Good background cover is essential while rattling. Cedars are among the best.
Begin by gripping your antlers very tightly before starting your sequence. You are trying to imitate two heavy battling bucks. Visualize each antler as an individual buck. Before you start, look all around your stand to make sure no deer are in sight. While standing, slam your antlers together with as much force as you can, locking the tines. Instead of pausing as you do in early pre-rut, begin imitating an all out battle. Give it everything you have got. Twist and turn your antlers rapidly, but very hard, maintaining a tight grip. Grind the interlocking tines and beams together while doing this. Without stopping your sequence, pull the sheds apart and strike the tines together quickly in an up and down motion before slamming the beams back together again and resuming the hard rattling. If you think you are rattling hard enough, rattle even harder. It is impossible to rattle too hard at this time. I have actually broken antler tips while rattling, and so do fighting bucks. I keep this sequence short, usually 30-40 seconds. I then quickly hang up my sheds and grab my bow. Every buck for quite a distance has pinpointed your location. Smaller bucks may not respond, preferring to avoid what they interpret as two larger bucks in a foul mood. If they do come in, it is usually just to watch the fight and they approach carefully. The bigger bucks, however, usually come in aggressively if they are buying what they've heard. This ranges from a steady walk with the buck possibly stopping and making a rub or posturing for the imagined warriors, to a fast trot. Sometimes, he will even come in like a fast moving freight train. These bigger, dominant bucks think they are missing out on the first action of the season and they aren't going to take it lying down. Have your bow up and ready so all you have to do is draw back with as little movement as possible because these bucks are wired and on full alert. Be prepared to shoot quickly. You may have to stop a fast moving buck by grunting with your voice, but draw your bow before stopping him. Also, when a big buck comes in to this type of rattling, he expects to see the bucks that he heard fighting. When he doesn't, he usually becomes nervous and doesn't stick around realizing he has been duped. Some hunters use decoys while rattling to distract the bucks coming in, but I don't think this is really necessary because you are prepared for your shot and the buck has pinpointed your location to within a few yards. He has committed himself to coming in and he has an "attitude" His ears are also working overtime, so remember to hold low on his vitals to prevent a high hit or a complete miss as the deer is likely to drop down when he hears you release your arrow. I normally rattle one or two times while on stand, depending on the phase of the rut. Let natural deer movement dictate the frequency of your rattling. I have rattled in as many as five bucks in one day from the same stand during this late pre-rut period.
This 1999 Iowa buck was taken November 6th while rattling hard during the late pre-rut period. Four bucks responded to the horns.
One final thing to consider during this period is this: Just as your chances of harvesting a big buck are the greatest the first time you sit a new stand, the same applies to rattling from a new stand. If you know there is a trophy buck in the area you are hunting, you might want to save a new stand and hold off on rattling altogether until this time frame because if this buck has heard you sparring earlier in the season and then saw you leaving the area or getting out of your stand, he is unlikely to come in at all. As the saying goes, "Fool me once, shame on you ~ Fool me twice, shame on me". A wise buck won't be fooled twice.
BEGINNING OF PEAK RUT:
This time period is from the end of the first week in November until approximately November 20th with the peak of the rut occurring around the 15th. The main rut begins winding down from here. Again, this can vary from year to year. This is where your personal observations come in.
When you are spotting many yearlings traveling by themselves, several 1-1/2 year old bucks cruising, but no larger bucks, and scrapes are not being worked, it is safe to assume peak breeding is occurring. The majority of does are entering estrous and the bigger bucks are with them. Rattling for big bucks at this time is least productive. They are not going to leave a hot doe to enter into a possible confrontation with another buck. In fact, he will do just the opposite. He will steer the doe away from you if he hears you rattling. He doesn't want or need any competition for his doe. A better strategy here is to only rattle if you see a large buck in the distance traveling by himself, possibly having abandoned one doe searching for another estrous doe. Wait until the buck is out of view and then rattle aggressively as in late pre-rut. He may respond quickly and, then again, he may not. Large bucks usually have a pre-planned destination when traveling during this time, probably a known-to-him doe bedding area or feeding area. The best plan during this peak rut phase is just to remain silent and let the does bring the bucks to you unless, as noted, earlier you spot a distant buck you want to try bringing in.
END OF PEAK RUT:
This period runs from about the 20th of November until there are not any estrous does at the end of November in the does first estrous cycle. This phase can be identified by the observance of mature does reuniting with yearlings, scrapes being reworked, and mature bucks cruising quickly, covering a lot of ground in a hurry as they search for just one last doe to breed. This is an excellent time to be bowhunting as the bigger bucks are alone, highly visible and, once again, vulnerable to rattling. Use the same rattling technique as described for late pre-rut or, in other words, simulating an all out battle. The best of this period is very brief, probably four or five days following peak breeding. The bigger bucks are scouring their whole range for the last estrous does before realizing the party is over and drop out of sight once again. Over the years, I have taken the majority of my bucks during these four to five days.
POST RUT:
This post rut period runs from around November 26th through January 10th, in Iowa, with a firearm season beginning the first weekend in December and lasting approximately 16 days during which time no bowhunting is allowed. Bow season reopens after the close of shotgun season and continues until January 10th. The beginning of this phase is identifiable by a dramatic decrease in deer movement. The bucks are worn down from the rut and, once again, become more reclusive. Does are traveling with their yearlings after having been bred. Bucks also begin to reform bachelor groups. This includes any 1-1/2 year old bucks which have decided to relocate to your hunting ground after dispersing from another area.
At this time, I switch back to my 125-130 class sheds. This isn't a time for heavy rattling. Instead, I go back to the method described in early pre-rut. The light ticking of antlers and very light sparring is more of a social call as the local bucks reunite and also make themselves familiar with the newly dispersed bucks. Remember to keep it light. You are only trying to say to bucks, "We're over here and you are welcome to come over". I watched this exact scenario on November 30th of the 1998 bow season. I was bowhunting on my landowner bow tag after having rattled in and harvesting a big eleven pointer during the late pre-rut phase with my state tag. While on stand, a big nine-pointer, probably in the mid 150's, came into bed, passing just 50 yards away. Soon, a small six-pointer came in, obviously a new arrival to the area. I could tell he was uncomfortable by the big buck's presence, but approached him in a submissive manner. The big buck accepted him and they began this tickling of antler tines. It was barely audible at 50-yards. Soon, another small buck approached. The big nine-pointer bedded down and the two small bucks began very light sparring. Eventually, they all bedded within feet of each other. I never did get a shot at the nine-pointer. After a two hour wait, he got up, stretched, and walked down into the brush. Using your antlers at this time should only be used as a form of social calling.
Inside corners with thick cover always have good potential. Rattle at this spot only if yo have a diagonal wind carrying your scent to the open field or on a calm morning with thermals rising.
RATTLING SET-UPS:
When setting up a stand that you plan to rattle from, bear in mind all possible approach routes that a buck will use. A mature buck coming into the horns will almost always use any available cover to avoid exposing himself and will attempt to come in downwind. Take advantage of these two key facts. Set up so the buck cannot go downwind without giving up available cover. Many times, he will give up his wind advantage in favor of cover. The photo at left is an example of a prime rattling set-up. Place your stand on the inside corner and inside the timber 10-20 yards. With the proper diagonal wind, say northwest, deer will come into the rattling from all directions rather than enter the open field, they will pass very close to the inside corner, momentarily giving up the wind advantage. Two of my other favorite set-ups include inside bends on creeks or rivers and saddles crossing a long ridge on calm morning hunts with thermals rising.
CONCLUSION:
In order for rattling to work consistently throughout the bow season, you must know at which stage the deer are in. I feel these stages and time frames are a pretty accurate analysis of bowhunting in Iowa after many years of rattling and observing deer. I say pretty accurate because the timing of the rut will almost certainly vary slightly from year to year. These methods will work anywhere you hunt whitetails. The timing of these stages will be different from north to south and east to west, wherever whitetails are found, but it is up to you to "tune in" so to speak, and discover at which stage you are hunting before you begin rattling. The best time to rattle is while deer are traveling to and from bedding and feeding areas. First and last light are the best times because this is when you are more apt to see a mature buck. By rattling at first light, you may be able to intercept a big buck before he reaches his bedding area. Rattling just before last light gives you a chance at luring a buck out of his bedding area while there are still a few minutes of legal shooting light.Think of it this way: Any successful salesman will tell you timing, presentation, and telling his customer what he wants to hear at the time are very important if he is to sell his product. In this case, a buck is your customer and by rattling, the product you are selling is yourself as you attempt to draw him over to your stand. Telling a buck what he wants to hear when he wants to hear it are critical if you are going to be a good salesman because a mature buck can be one tough customer. While the information in this article will give you an edge rattling in mature bucks, there are many variables which can and will affect your success rate on rattling during bow season. Some of these are weather, stand placement, approaching and leaving your stand properly, pressure from other hunters, and just the fact that every buck is an individual with his own demeanor or personality. Whether it is early October or late November, one this is for certain ~ My rattling antlers are like my Mastercard ~ I don't leave home without them. Good luck hunting!
Shed Hunting in the spring like my friend, Mark Mincks in photo, not only tells you the caliber of bucks you will be hunting, but provides you with the tools (rattling horns) to harvest them.
While there may be only two or three rattling techniques used, such as light sparring, hard rattling, or raking trees and brush, there are actually five time frames when you must imitate what is going on out in the deer's environment. For the purpose of this article, I have identified these as early pre-rut, late pre-rut, beginning of peak rut, end of peak rut, and post rut. To simulate these time frames, you must get inside a buck's head or frame of mind, so to speak. By observing bucks throughout the season and analyzing what they are doing at the times of the sightings, you can identify these five periods, and by doing so, I would be willing to bet your success rate on bringing in the bigger bucks will increase dramatically while rattling.
EARLY PRE-RUT:
This time period would be from the time bow season begins here in Iowa on October 1st until approximately the end of the third week in October. A buck's attitude in this time frame ranges from being sociable towards other bucks, with some still in small bachelor groups during the first and second weeks, to increasing aggressiveness during the third week as testosterone levels rise.
Rattling efforts should be limited to lightly tickling antler tips together in the first week to very light sparring in the second week to heavier sparring in the third week. Light sparring is simply locking your rattling antlers together lightly, pausing for one to two seconds, and then slowly, but softly, twisting them back and forth, this time pausing every three to four seconds. Heavier sparring is the same, but with more force. Grip the antlers more tightly and add some grinding motions after locking up before sparring. This simulates two bucks in a pushing match. During the third week, pick up your speed and volume while sparring as the bucks are becoming more aggressive now. I use 125-130 class sheds for rattling at this time, but later in the rut period, I would use heavier sheds. These methods should cover this pre-rut time frame and a buck's increasing mood swings during this time.
LATE PRE-RUT:
This time frame is from the third week of October until the first few does come into estrous during the first week of November. These dates are not set in stone because each year will vary slightly. I've seen estrous does in the third week of October before.
Bucks at this stage are definitely developing an "attitude". They are growing more and more frustrated awaiting the arrival of an estrous doe. Buck movement picks up as they begin to search out local doe groups. They are making scrapes and are more likely to be seen during legal shooting hours. They are highly anticipating the rut to come. It is nature's way and it is their calling. Big bucks are very vulnerable to rattling at this time. This is one of the time frames when your chances of rattling in and taking a big buck are the best. At this time, I switch from the lighter sheds to my 150-class sheds which have a lot of mass and can be heard for up to one-half mile on quiet mornings. The heavier sheds seem to bring in the bigger bucks at this time. I feel this is because you cannot imitate an all out dominant buck fight with smaller antlers. These heavy sheds may intimidate smaller bucks, but I'm not targeting them anyway. Hang your bow on a bow hook within easy reach with an arrow nocked. It's time to get serious!!!
Good background cover is essential while rattling. Cedars are among the best.
Begin by gripping your antlers very tightly before starting your sequence. You are trying to imitate two heavy battling bucks. Visualize each antler as an individual buck. Before you start, look all around your stand to make sure no deer are in sight. While standing, slam your antlers together with as much force as you can, locking the tines. Instead of pausing as you do in early pre-rut, begin imitating an all out battle. Give it everything you have got. Twist and turn your antlers rapidly, but very hard, maintaining a tight grip. Grind the interlocking tines and beams together while doing this. Without stopping your sequence, pull the sheds apart and strike the tines together quickly in an up and down motion before slamming the beams back together again and resuming the hard rattling. If you think you are rattling hard enough, rattle even harder. It is impossible to rattle too hard at this time. I have actually broken antler tips while rattling, and so do fighting bucks. I keep this sequence short, usually 30-40 seconds. I then quickly hang up my sheds and grab my bow. Every buck for quite a distance has pinpointed your location. Smaller bucks may not respond, preferring to avoid what they interpret as two larger bucks in a foul mood. If they do come in, it is usually just to watch the fight and they approach carefully. The bigger bucks, however, usually come in aggressively if they are buying what they've heard. This ranges from a steady walk with the buck possibly stopping and making a rub or posturing for the imagined warriors, to a fast trot. Sometimes, he will even come in like a fast moving freight train. These bigger, dominant bucks think they are missing out on the first action of the season and they aren't going to take it lying down. Have your bow up and ready so all you have to do is draw back with as little movement as possible because these bucks are wired and on full alert. Be prepared to shoot quickly. You may have to stop a fast moving buck by grunting with your voice, but draw your bow before stopping him. Also, when a big buck comes in to this type of rattling, he expects to see the bucks that he heard fighting. When he doesn't, he usually becomes nervous and doesn't stick around realizing he has been duped. Some hunters use decoys while rattling to distract the bucks coming in, but I don't think this is really necessary because you are prepared for your shot and the buck has pinpointed your location to within a few yards. He has committed himself to coming in and he has an "attitude" His ears are also working overtime, so remember to hold low on his vitals to prevent a high hit or a complete miss as the deer is likely to drop down when he hears you release your arrow. I normally rattle one or two times while on stand, depending on the phase of the rut. Let natural deer movement dictate the frequency of your rattling. I have rattled in as many as five bucks in one day from the same stand during this late pre-rut period.
This 1999 Iowa buck was taken November 6th while rattling hard during the late pre-rut period. Four bucks responded to the horns.
One final thing to consider during this period is this: Just as your chances of harvesting a big buck are the greatest the first time you sit a new stand, the same applies to rattling from a new stand. If you know there is a trophy buck in the area you are hunting, you might want to save a new stand and hold off on rattling altogether until this time frame because if this buck has heard you sparring earlier in the season and then saw you leaving the area or getting out of your stand, he is unlikely to come in at all. As the saying goes, "Fool me once, shame on you ~ Fool me twice, shame on me". A wise buck won't be fooled twice.
BEGINNING OF PEAK RUT:
This time period is from the end of the first week in November until approximately November 20th with the peak of the rut occurring around the 15th. The main rut begins winding down from here. Again, this can vary from year to year. This is where your personal observations come in.
When you are spotting many yearlings traveling by themselves, several 1-1/2 year old bucks cruising, but no larger bucks, and scrapes are not being worked, it is safe to assume peak breeding is occurring. The majority of does are entering estrous and the bigger bucks are with them. Rattling for big bucks at this time is least productive. They are not going to leave a hot doe to enter into a possible confrontation with another buck. In fact, he will do just the opposite. He will steer the doe away from you if he hears you rattling. He doesn't want or need any competition for his doe. A better strategy here is to only rattle if you see a large buck in the distance traveling by himself, possibly having abandoned one doe searching for another estrous doe. Wait until the buck is out of view and then rattle aggressively as in late pre-rut. He may respond quickly and, then again, he may not. Large bucks usually have a pre-planned destination when traveling during this time, probably a known-to-him doe bedding area or feeding area. The best plan during this peak rut phase is just to remain silent and let the does bring the bucks to you unless, as noted, earlier you spot a distant buck you want to try bringing in.
END OF PEAK RUT:
This period runs from about the 20th of November until there are not any estrous does at the end of November in the does first estrous cycle. This phase can be identified by the observance of mature does reuniting with yearlings, scrapes being reworked, and mature bucks cruising quickly, covering a lot of ground in a hurry as they search for just one last doe to breed. This is an excellent time to be bowhunting as the bigger bucks are alone, highly visible and, once again, vulnerable to rattling. Use the same rattling technique as described for late pre-rut or, in other words, simulating an all out battle. The best of this period is very brief, probably four or five days following peak breeding. The bigger bucks are scouring their whole range for the last estrous does before realizing the party is over and drop out of sight once again. Over the years, I have taken the majority of my bucks during these four to five days.
POST RUT:
This post rut period runs from around November 26th through January 10th, in Iowa, with a firearm season beginning the first weekend in December and lasting approximately 16 days during which time no bowhunting is allowed. Bow season reopens after the close of shotgun season and continues until January 10th. The beginning of this phase is identifiable by a dramatic decrease in deer movement. The bucks are worn down from the rut and, once again, become more reclusive. Does are traveling with their yearlings after having been bred. Bucks also begin to reform bachelor groups. This includes any 1-1/2 year old bucks which have decided to relocate to your hunting ground after dispersing from another area.
At this time, I switch back to my 125-130 class sheds. This isn't a time for heavy rattling. Instead, I go back to the method described in early pre-rut. The light ticking of antlers and very light sparring is more of a social call as the local bucks reunite and also make themselves familiar with the newly dispersed bucks. Remember to keep it light. You are only trying to say to bucks, "We're over here and you are welcome to come over". I watched this exact scenario on November 30th of the 1998 bow season. I was bowhunting on my landowner bow tag after having rattled in and harvesting a big eleven pointer during the late pre-rut phase with my state tag. While on stand, a big nine-pointer, probably in the mid 150's, came into bed, passing just 50 yards away. Soon, a small six-pointer came in, obviously a new arrival to the area. I could tell he was uncomfortable by the big buck's presence, but approached him in a submissive manner. The big buck accepted him and they began this tickling of antler tines. It was barely audible at 50-yards. Soon, another small buck approached. The big nine-pointer bedded down and the two small bucks began very light sparring. Eventually, they all bedded within feet of each other. I never did get a shot at the nine-pointer. After a two hour wait, he got up, stretched, and walked down into the brush. Using your antlers at this time should only be used as a form of social calling.
RATTLING SET-UPS:
When setting up a stand that you plan to rattle from, bear in mind all possible approach routes that a buck will use. A mature buck coming into the horns will almost always use any available cover to avoid exposing himself and will attempt to come in downwind. Take advantage of these two key facts. Set up so the buck cannot go downwind without giving up available cover. Many times, he will give up his wind advantage in favor of cover. The photo at left is an example of a prime rattling set-up. Place your stand on the inside corner and inside the timber 10-20 yards. With the proper diagonal wind, say northwest, deer will come into the rattling from all directions rather than enter the open field, they will pass very close to the inside corner, momentarily giving up the wind advantage. Two of my other favorite set-ups include inside bends on creeks or rivers and saddles crossing a long ridge on calm morning hunts with thermals rising.
CONCLUSION:
In order for rattling to work consistently throughout the bow season, you must know at which stage the deer are in. I feel these stages and time frames are a pretty accurate analysis of bowhunting in Iowa after many years of rattling and observing deer. I say pretty accurate because the timing of the rut will almost certainly vary slightly from year to year. These methods will work anywhere you hunt whitetails. The timing of these stages will be different from north to south and east to west, wherever whitetails are found, but it is up to you to "tune in" so to speak, and discover at which stage you are hunting before you begin rattling. The best time to rattle is while deer are traveling to and from bedding and feeding areas. First and last light are the best times because this is when you are more apt to see a mature buck. By rattling at first light, you may be able to intercept a big buck before he reaches his bedding area. Rattling just before last light gives you a chance at luring a buck out of his bedding area while there are still a few minutes of legal shooting light.Think of it this way: Any successful salesman will tell you timing, presentation, and telling his customer what he wants to hear at the time are very important if he is to sell his product. In this case, a buck is your customer and by rattling, the product you are selling is yourself as you attempt to draw him over to your stand. Telling a buck what he wants to hear when he wants to hear it are critical if you are going to be a good salesman because a mature buck can be one tough customer. While the information in this article will give you an edge rattling in mature bucks, there are many variables which can and will affect your success rate on rattling during bow season. Some of these are weather, stand placement, approaching and leaving your stand properly, pressure from other hunters, and just the fact that every buck is an individual with his own demeanor or personality. Whether it is early October or late November, one this is for certain ~ My rattling antlers are like my Mastercard ~ I don't leave home without them. Good luck hunting!