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Walk back tuning...I'm in

Iowabowtech

Iowabowtech

Active Member
I can't believe I haven't used the walkback method of tuning yet but I've typically just called it good with paper tuning (which really has worked fairly well). In setting up my newly acquired bow however, I've quickly become hooked on walkback. It really gives me better peace of mind for finding centershot in particular. Nice thing about it is you know without a doubt you're shooting straightline all the way to, or even past, your effective yardage. Might give it a try if you haven't before and see what you think. /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif
 
Well, I'll try to be as brief as possible though I'm not good at it sometimes. Basically, you set up a target, hopefully with some decent height to it. You pick out a bullseye spot which I put in the very center of the target width-wise and somewhat toward the top. Then you need a visible straight line running all the way down the target from the center of the bull.

Now start shooting at various distances <u> using your uppermost pin the entire time</u>, no others, always aiming it at the bull. Start for example at 10 or 20 yds, shoot a group. Then move to 30 yds, shoot a group and repeat to whatever distance you can hold a group. I went out to 50 yds. What happens is your groups SHOULD theoretically all line up in a vertical pattern (doesn't matter at this point if they're on the line you made on the target). Most likely though the groups will have an angle to them from the uppermost group to bottom-most group either angling down to the left like this / or down to the right like this \. This is because if your centershot is off, it's magnified the further you move rearward in yardage.

Then the arrow rest is moved either away from the riser or toward the riser and you shoot again at the various distances using the same upper pin until you bring all the groups into a straight vertical line. In other words, once you have the rest's left/right orientation nailed perfectly, your groups will become vertical at any distance using the same pin for all. Then you can adjust the windage on your entire sight set as needed to bring them all into the center line you placed on the target which of course is equal to dead center of the bull. I think it's wise to do this step at close range so you can get an accurate windage setting. The beauty of it is that windage setting will now translate to ALL distances.

At this point it's back to business as normal. So all pins are back in play and you just set the desired elevation for each at whatever distance you want them at. 20,30,40, etc. Just like you always do when setting up sights.

You can see why you want a target with some decent height as earlier mentioned. Depending on the speed of the bow, you're going to get some substantial drop using the same uppermost pin by the time you get out to 40 or 50 yds. /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
That is a great explanation. It really isn't as hard as it sounds. Most guys that try it, swear by it.
 
Also, be sure to level your sight bubble first.
If it is off a little, it can throw a skew into your results.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Then the arrow rest is moved either away from the riser or toward the riser and you shoot again at the various distances using the same upper pin until you bring all the groups into a straight vertical line. In other words, once you have the rest's left/right orientation nailed perfectly, your groups will become vertical at any distance using the same pin for all.</div></div>

You lose me here a little. If you move your rest to the right, bring your 40 yard shot right, what happens to your ten yard shot that was dead on? Wouldn't it move right as your forty yard shot does? Or, are you making such small adjustments that you don't see the difference at ten yards?
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KSQ2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

You lose me here a little. If you move your rest to the right, bring your 40 yard shot right, what happens to your ten yard shot that was dead on? Wouldn't it move right as your forty yard shot does? Or, are you making such small adjustments that you don't see the difference at ten yards? </div></div>

The shot at 10 yds never was dead on because it doesn't matter where it lands in relation to the bull...this is part of the plan. The bullseye is only placed there to allow for a constant point of AIM for your top sight, we don't care right now if our arrows hit there or not. The only thing you care about is that your groups at the various distances line up vertically. The rest is adjusted to achieve that. Only after you've got them all vertical do you even start adjusting the sights on your bow.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Iowabowtech</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KSQ2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

You lose me here a little. If you move your rest to the right, bring your 40 yard shot right, what happens to your ten yard shot that was dead on? Wouldn't it move right as your forty yard shot does? Or, are you making such small adjustments that you don't see the difference at ten yards? </div></div>

The shot at 10 yds never was dead on because it doesn't matter where it lands in relation to the bull...this is part of the plan. The bullseye is only placed there to allow for a constant point of AIM for your top sight, we don't care right now if our arrows hit there or not. The only thing you care about is that your groups at the various distances line up vertically. The rest is adjusted to achieve that. Only after you've got them all vertical do you even start adjusting the sights on your bow.</div></div>

Very good post...I did it this year and will hopefully always do this. It can be frustrating, or should I say, take more than one night, but works great.

I do something just a tad different KSQ2...when i adjust my sight from my riser, I always center my windage on my 10 yard pin again with the orange bullseye and go back, just to make it easier to see that straight line.

And I will keep an arrow free to see how vertical it is...I dangle the arrow at the top bullseye and let it dangle down...that way I can see if my groups are truly vertical.

Hope this makes sense and helps!
 
Similar to what I have been doing. Haven't read about this until now but am glad to see I'm doing something right. Just can't bring myself to totally trust paper at 6 feet when I can see for myself what happens at 60 yards.
 
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