Central Iowa
Life Member
oh wow that looks like work!
1) How long would it take you to plant an acre of corn with that?
2) Guys asking about Beans on Beans..... 2 Years of different types of beans (different brand or #) is all I will do. Could you do 3, sure, probably. What folks often don't realize... You are setting yourself up for some nasty disease with consecutive bean plantings. Fungus for example. Some guys go with some fungicides to combat this but it's still not a good idea. Corn to bean to corn to bean rotation is in place for very good reason. Beans are much riskier to do year after year VS corn. You could essentially (in a bad case) make your ground screwed for future beans for a long time if you did it too long. 2 years is ok, 3 years is risky (I've done it on rare occasion), 4 years, no way, I would never do it. I'll do 2 max. Other downsides to beans on beans..... Erosion is worse. Weeds, etc (good call on Liberty beans). Beans fix N, corn eats it up the following year and keep many diseases out. Hope that answers previous questions. Do some sort of rotation and don't risk pushing the limits on beans. Another option on a rotation is rotating out a Dbltree mix after beans, like turnips/radishes (which will utilize N as well) or the grain mix.
2) Guys asking about Beans on Beans..... 2 Years of different types of beans (different brand or #) is all I will do. Could you do 3, sure, probably. What folks often don't realize... You are setting yourself up for some nasty disease with consecutive bean plantings. Fungus for example. Some guys go with some fungicides to combat this but it's still not a good idea. Corn to bean to corn to bean rotation is in place for very good reason. Beans are much riskier to do year after year VS corn. You could essentially (in a bad case) make your ground screwed for future beans for a long time if you did it too long. 2 years is ok, 3 years is risky (I've done it on rare occasion), 4 years, no way, I would never do it. I'll do 2 max. Other downsides to beans on beans..... Erosion is worse. Weeds, etc (good call on Liberty beans). Beans fix N, corn eats it up the following year and keep many diseases out. Hope that answers previous questions. Do some sort of rotation and don't risk pushing the limits on beans. Another option on a rotation is rotating out a Dbltree mix after beans, like turnips/radishes (which will utilize N as well) or the grain mix.
HorseDoctor
PMA Member
Ha! And I thought I was the only one nuts enough to do that. 
I had one corn cup that either was not engaged or malfunctioning so when I planted a little over half acre of corn, every 4th row failed to come up. I did exactly the same thing with the same "high tech" garden planter and replanted those rows. At least now all I have are some crooked rows but don't have to explain the empty ones.
I had one corn cup that either was not engaged or malfunctioning so when I planted a little over half acre of corn, every 4th row failed to come up. I did exactly the same thing with the same "high tech" garden planter and replanted those rows. At least now all I have are some crooked rows but don't have to explain the empty ones. Horncarver
Member
Late summer soybeans with crimson clover
I am wanting to plant a small (1/4 acre) early season attraction plot in close proximilty to what I consider one of my "destination plots." I have access to a lot of free soybean seed this fall and was considering mixing in crimson clover to extend the fall attractiveness of the plot in case the deer wipe out the beans right away. Has anyone tried mixing these two or have a better idea of what might compliment the beans? I do not want to establish a perennial clover plot, as I already have that in place. Thanks
I am wanting to plant a small (1/4 acre) early season attraction plot in close proximilty to what I consider one of my "destination plots." I have access to a lot of free soybean seed this fall and was considering mixing in crimson clover to extend the fall attractiveness of the plot in case the deer wipe out the beans right away. Has anyone tried mixing these two or have a better idea of what might compliment the beans? I do not want to establish a perennial clover plot, as I already have that in place. Thanks
No wrong answer if u can get seed rates right where one plant does not smother and shade out others. Early season plot- I'd add some seed for residual into NOv as it will be just as attractive Early season too. I'd get creative as it will work.... Soybeans, lower rate of iron clay or cow peas (die at frost, grow quick & deer love em in October but they shade out other stuff so plant light. And they cheap & common). Austrian winter peas (good for ur goals and good later just for bonus). I'd do clover like Crimson, berseem or balansa cause grow fast & cheap. Last- if wanna get fussy- could add .5-1 lbs to acre of radish. This right here would be a ridiculous early season plot.
LoessHillsArcher
PMA Member
Anyone broadcasting cover crops into their beans yet? We typically wait a couple more weeks until the beans start to turn but we have one plot that the deer have hammered and the beans haven't canopied as well so I broadcasted some stuff in there
Lots of bare, exposed soil so I broadcasted rye, peas, and groundhog forage radishes. We ended up getting nearly 4" of rain in the few days following planting so this seed should hopefully be able to sprout and grow right away
I broadcasted it all through the entire plot. Some of the rows have canopied but lots of areas the deer have browsed so much they never canopied so I feel like it was safe to overseed this bean plot. Now some of our other bean plots that are super tall, thick, and fully canopied I'm going to wait a couple more weeks before broadcasting anything into them since the seed will likely get very little sunlight through the dense soybean canopy. It is best to wait to seed closer to when the beans are going to turn yellow.
Lots of bare, exposed soil so I broadcasted rye, peas, and groundhog forage radishes. We ended up getting nearly 4" of rain in the few days following planting so this seed should hopefully be able to sprout and grow right away
I broadcasted it all through the entire plot. Some of the rows have canopied but lots of areas the deer have browsed so much they never canopied so I feel like it was safe to overseed this bean plot. Now some of our other bean plots that are super tall, thick, and fully canopied I'm going to wait a couple more weeks before broadcasting anything into them since the seed will likely get very little sunlight through the dense soybean canopy. It is best to wait to seed closer to when the beans are going to turn yellow.
Rural King has Glyphostate Tolerant Soybeans 50lb. Bag $30.00.
http://ruralking.inserts2online.com/...startPageNum=3
I'm going to try a bag.
mike
http://ruralking.inserts2online.com/...startPageNum=3
I'm going to try a bag.
mike
DeerHunter3
Member
Ok, here's the scenario on my soybean food plot.
I sprayed the plot labor day week and got a good kill on the grass.
June 11th I went down with the atv and disc, got everything flatted out well and some down to bare dirt.
In areas where the grass was taller I have excess thatch laying on the surface...
I broadcast the beans and ran a drag harrow over everything, with that said do you guys think the beans will still produce in areas where the dead grass is on the surface?
I sprayed the plot labor day week and got a good kill on the grass.
June 11th I went down with the atv and disc, got everything flatted out well and some down to bare dirt.
In areas where the grass was taller I have excess thatch laying on the surface...
I broadcast the beans and ran a drag harrow over everything, with that said do you guys think the beans will still produce in areas where the dead grass is on the surface?
Hardwood11
It is going to be a good fall!
The dead grass or thatch will often help seed sprout if a good rain comes along.
Booner
Well-Known Member
If you had good seed to soil contact you will be fine; actually you will pry find that the beans will do better in those areas because of more moisture and less weed competition. Ground temp determines germination, and it's obviously where it needs to be because of how late it is.
HorseDoctor
PMA Member
Depends on when "fall" comes & the maturity date of the corn. Seems iffy to me... I probably woulda done beans that late. Good luck!
arm
Leg
Planted June 12th. It didn't take off great with the dry weather. Don't know the maturity, it was left over from the neighbor and I said what the hell. Guessing around 100 day. My other corn plot and beans are on schedule. Southcentral Iowa so mid-Oct frost probably. Is it simple as maturity coming before first frost?
Last edited:
Iowa_Buckeye
Active Member
A couple years ago we planted 86 day corn on July 17th. We also planted beans the same day. We did it so late because the field had flooded prior so we gave it a shot. The growing conditions were perfect following planting. The corn ended up with real nice ears. The beans did set pods, but they never filled.
Booner
Well-Known Member
All depends what Mother Nature throws you. You figure these hot days if moisture is adequate your corn will move throw its stages much quicker than corn planted in April or May in those regard based off GDUs (takes about 50 units to move through your V stages) however if we get a frost early you can pretty much stop all growth and what you get is what you get. I'd say since your down south your pry in that 103-108 maturity range so as for grain growth your praying for late frost. If your corn tassels and silks your in the game, if not I'd look toward fall green plots if possible come end of August/September as your corn should be tassling by then.