Apple/Pear Trees
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Nontypcl1
Member
Spectracide Immunox is usually available at Menards, Home depot, or possibly even walmart. Many other garden centers or greenhouses and nurseries carry it as well.
Here's a link to what the bottle looks like
http://www.spectracide.com/ProductCategories/RoseAndFlowerCare/SpectracideImmunox/
loneranger
Well-Known Member
I used Immunox this past summer on an apple tree that always gets hammered by Cedar rust amd it worked great. Also good for black rot on grapes, but for some reason it did not keep scab off my Gala tree. It did rain though ,,like every other day. It is a good fungicide though.
Hardwood11
It is going to be a good fall!
Northern Spy
Has anyone planted northern spy? I have one planted on our farm from many years ago, it really produces some nice apples... I think I may plant more this year. Deer area all over it.
Has anyone planted northern spy? I have one planted on our farm from many years ago, it really produces some nice apples... I think I may plant more this year. Deer area all over it.
dbltree
Super Moderator
Shoot! Everything but...guess I will add it to my wish list though! :way:
Dbltree's Apple/Pear list:
Nontypcl1
Member
Scab has shown some resistance to myclobutanil so that could one possibility why it didn't keep the Gala clean. Timing is also everything with controlling some of these diseases and with the rain we had even more so. You should spray for scab as soon as leaves begin to emerge and then again approx 2 weeks later.
Captan and daconil are both labeled for scab and I don't believe there are any resistance issues with either of them. If you had a bad case of scab you might consider raking and destroying the fallen leaves as they will be a source of scab spores in the future.
dbltree
Super Moderator
Just a reminder to those planning their 2011 fruit tree plantings to consider utilizing the area in and around the orchard to plant white clover. No sense wasting the area and fighting weeds and grass when the same area can be attractive to whitetails from early spring well into winter simply by adding clover.
We killed the sod around these apple and pear trees in late summer with two applications of glyphosate about 2 weeks apart.
and then planted a lush mix of rye/oats/peas/radish and both white and red clovers in late August
This coming spring we'll use clethodim to kill the rye leaving only a beautiful stand of white clover behind. These trees are just starting to produce fruit so once again we use the combination of clover and fruit trees planted adjacent to strip plots of brassicas, the rye combination and more clover to keep deer adapted to feeding here year around.
Start your orchard with late bearing apples and pears but then each year add earlier bearing trees so that eventually trees are bearing fruit from July to November and with clover attracting them from early April through January the combination is an excellent attractant and source of high quality feed.
I would also add that the combination of clover and fruit trees is perfect for small woodland openings where large scale food plots are not feasible, both clover and fruit trees can be maintained with a backpack sprayer and even a weed whip if necessary.
Check the front page for more ideas and details on varieties and planting info because fruit trees are often the one thing that the neighbors don't have and are simply irresistible to whitetails.... :way:
We killed the sod around these apple and pear trees in late summer with two applications of glyphosate about 2 weeks apart.
and then planted a lush mix of rye/oats/peas/radish and both white and red clovers in late August
This coming spring we'll use clethodim to kill the rye leaving only a beautiful stand of white clover behind. These trees are just starting to produce fruit so once again we use the combination of clover and fruit trees planted adjacent to strip plots of brassicas, the rye combination and more clover to keep deer adapted to feeding here year around.
Start your orchard with late bearing apples and pears but then each year add earlier bearing trees so that eventually trees are bearing fruit from July to November and with clover attracting them from early April through January the combination is an excellent attractant and source of high quality feed.
I would also add that the combination of clover and fruit trees is perfect for small woodland openings where large scale food plots are not feasible, both clover and fruit trees can be maintained with a backpack sprayer and even a weed whip if necessary.
Check the front page for more ideas and details on varieties and planting info because fruit trees are often the one thing that the neighbors don't have and are simply irresistible to whitetails.... :way:
dbltree: couple questions
1) I don't have much experience spraying grass or weeds, last year was actually the 1st time. Seemed like the advice I was getting was that the optimal time to spray was once in May, then again about 4 weeks later and a 3rd time in mid-September. So if I wanted to spray and not have to cut grass first would some other times work out? For me timing might be better in June and then again in September or just Septmber (I'm not planning on planting anything this late-spring/early summer, maybe this fall, if not then next spring).
2) I've typcially planted Oak in the late April early May period, I know you mentioned that you'll plant some of your seedlings throughout the summer as time permits. Could I plant Oak or Apple trees as late as the end of September (wondering if you've tried it that late)?
3) One last question, last fall I tried using window screen around the bottom of trees to protect against mice and rabbits as suggested. Should I have tried to bury the bottom of the screen a few inches? The advice I've gotten on the tubes was to go about 2 inches into the ground. I didn't think of it at the time, I guess I haven't used the tubes enough for it to be automatic.
Hardwood11
It is going to be a good fall!
MO-APE
Member
Disease-Resistant Apple Cultivars
For your reference, found this info on a MU Extension page:
http://extension.missouri.edu/publications/DisplayPub.aspx?P=G6026
For your reference, found this info on a MU Extension page:
http://extension.missouri.edu/publications/DisplayPub.aspx?P=G6026
letemgrow
PMA Member
Fall is the IDEAL time to plant for my area (MO/IA border). The next best time is as soon as the ground thaws in the spring. Planting in fall helps the tree get established before the summer stress period. If it gets hot and dry out in July, and you planted in April/May, that seedling would not fair nearly as well as a seedling planted in late October/Early November. :way:
Thanks for the feedback Hardwood11 & letemgrow, every little bit helps. Last couple years have been pretty hetic, making up for many years of neglect. A while back I had a pretty good apple grove going and had some body come on the property and dig them up, so kinda got discouraged for a while. But when you have that planting bug in you it's just a matter of time to get it going again.
loneranger
Well-Known Member
For fruit production a lower first number, lower Nitrogen is better, but triple 12 works and is easier to find.
loneranger
Well-Known Member
Spring or fall is good time to fert, root systems gorw in the fall, even when the tree seems to be going dormant. Roots grow until ground freezes. Next season's top tree growth follows how much the roots grew, the previous late summer, early fall, season.
letemgrow
PMA Member
I like to use a dibble bar for getting the fertilizer in the ground. Some of mine is fairly sloped so I put the fertilzer in around the drip line on the uphill side.
dbltree
Super Moderator
Dang it! Got a bad addiction and don't know if I can ever break free of it...fruit trees! 
Every year it seems the order get's a little bigger and this year they arrived from Century Farms Orchards so I started a new orchard adjacent to my centrally located food plot area and got busy digging in this ole SE Iowa clay.
This area is well drained but very poor subsoil clay
I kept the tree roots well protected and wrapped up tight in a bag with some moist soil
and got the holes all dug and top soil opened and at the ready by each hole
The root systems varied in size and this hole could have been a tad bigger
While others were just right
I poured a bag of top soil around each tree
and quickly moved down the line keeping root exposure to drying winds at a minimum
Then I went back down the line straightening each tree and firmly tamping the soil around each one
Then I cut 12" strips of 24" window screen and stapled them around the tree as a rodent and moth protector
Easy to do with a common stapler
then I sealed the top soil and bottom of the screen with clay
and stapled the name tags to the screen
and then took a moment to survey my work and imagine whitetails lapping up apples here some day in the future
I still have to stake and fence these and take it from me...don't put it off! probably lot's of great ways to get an orchard established but this method has worked well for me
Fruit trees tend to be a little pricey so I got some of my crazy addicted (to habitat) friends together and we have about 200 trees already on order with Adams County Nursery for $8-10 a piece for 2012...guess I better sharpen that shovel....
Every year it seems the order get's a little bigger and this year they arrived from Century Farms Orchards so I started a new orchard adjacent to my centrally located food plot area and got busy digging in this ole SE Iowa clay.
This area is well drained but very poor subsoil clay
I kept the tree roots well protected and wrapped up tight in a bag with some moist soil
and got the holes all dug and top soil opened and at the ready by each hole
The root systems varied in size and this hole could have been a tad bigger
While others were just right
I poured a bag of top soil around each tree
and quickly moved down the line keeping root exposure to drying winds at a minimum
Then I went back down the line straightening each tree and firmly tamping the soil around each one
Then I cut 12" strips of 24" window screen and stapled them around the tree as a rodent and moth protector
Easy to do with a common stapler
then I sealed the top soil and bottom of the screen with clay
and stapled the name tags to the screen
and then took a moment to survey my work and imagine whitetails lapping up apples here some day in the future
I still have to stake and fence these and take it from me...don't put it off! probably lot's of great ways to get an orchard established but this method has worked well for me
Fruit trees tend to be a little pricey so I got some of my crazy addicted (to habitat) friends together and we have about 200 trees already on order with Adams County Nursery for $8-10 a piece for 2012...guess I better sharpen that shovel....
dbltree
Super Moderator
July 27th, 2011
The Kazak apples started from seed last year in Rootmaker cells are doing well in the Root Trapper bags and I hope to get them planted this fall.
Grown from seed, each is a little different from the other
Interesting that there are 300 year old trees in Kazakstan
Plant Collection Expedition to Kazakstan
Hopefully we can keep these trees alive and spread the genetics around since they are so disease free... :way:
The Kazak apples started from seed last year in Rootmaker cells are doing well in the Root Trapper bags and I hope to get them planted this fall.
Grown from seed, each is a little different from the other
Interesting that there are 300 year old trees in Kazakstan
Plant Collection Expedition to Kazakstan
Hopefully we can keep these trees alive and spread the genetics around since they are so disease free... :way:
letemgrow
PMA Member
That sure would be nice!!