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Apple/Pear Trees

Do you guys have any previous dealings with a company that I could order persimmon trees from, particularly a company that will ship to Ohio?
 
I have one Persimmon tree from Burnt Ridge Nursery in Washington State. They ship all over I believe. The tree is growing fine, I also have three apple trees from them. Each of them grows great. They have more positive comments then Neg, about them.
 
Do you guys have any previous dealings with a company that I could order persimmon trees from, particularly a company that will ship to Ohio?


Order them from the MDC nursery...you get 25 seedlings for 8 bucks unless you are wanting some special grafted persimmon. They ship/order out of state and have great stock. Persimmons are either male or female so plant quite a few to make sure you get some of each. Then thin out the males as they start to fruit later on.

Grafted stock is sure to be either male or female, but you pay for that service too. :D
 
Persimmon

Letemgo: How would persimmon trees do near Des Moines? I will have a new farm in that area..closing in November.
 
Letemgo: How would persimmon trees do near Des Moines? I will have a new farm in that area..closing in November.


They are doing great in zone 5A....close to the IA line so I highly doubt anything by Des Moines should be the same zone as I am in. Those seedlings came from the MDC nursery so it is hard telling where exactly the original source came from within MO. Persimmons are non-existent in my area (have found one lone grove of wild persimmon in Mercer County). They are much more prevelant the farther south you go in MO so surely the source they came from is zone 6, but they are loaded with fruits in zone 5A. Congrats on the farm purchase. :way:
 
They are doing great in zone 5A....close to the IA line so I highly doubt anything by Des Moines should be the same zone as I am in. Those seedlings came from the MDC nursery so it is hard telling where exactly the original source came from within MO. Persimmons are non-existent in my area (have found one lone grove of wild persimmon in Mercer County). They are much more prevelant the farther south you go in MO so surely the source they came from is zone 6, but they are loaded with fruits in zone 5A. Congrats on the farm purchase. :way:

Thanks...

I will not be official owner until November... unfortunately it meant selling my other 80...but I will have more acres and a nix mix of tillable, timber and some hay ground/pasture that could be turned into habitat projects.

Looking forward to doing quite a few things, lots of deer on it already.
 
Thanks...

I will not be official owner until November... unfortunately it meant selling my other 80...but I will have more acres and a nix mix of tillable, timber and some hay ground/pasture that could be turned into habitat projects.

Looking forward to doing quite a few things, lots of deer on it already.


Trading up in acres is never a bad thing and it sounds like you can still make some income off the place and have lots of wildlife to boot. Remind me come November and I will mail you up some seeds off those persimmons. They are easy to start and I plant 20-30 seeds in a 5-gallon pot, keep them watered once they are seedlings in the bag and you will have more than you care to plant out at the farm.

They are stored in the fridge in damp peat all winter...they can have delayed germination tho and some may not germ till say June after they are planted out.
 
Trading up in acres is never a bad thing and it sounds like you can still make some income off the place and have lots of wildlife to boot. Remind me come November and I will mail you up some seeds off those persimmons. They are easy to start and I plant 20-30 seeds in a 5-gallon pot, keep them watered once they are seedlings in the bag and you will have more than you care to plant out at the farm.

They are stored in the fridge in damp peat all winter...they can have delayed germination tho and some may not germ till say June after they are planted out.

Will do, yes I am excited about the farm. Skip has been there, he gave me a stamp of approval:D
 
Will do, yes I am excited about the farm. Skip has been there, he gave me a stamp of approval:D

It's quite the place! I can envision what that place could look like in a couple years and it's a real gem! Got a solid foundation of how it breaks up, neighborhood, deer numbers and trees. Apples and pears out there would be great and I sure wouldn't hesitate putting some persimmons out. My old farm in van Buren county had many persimmons I planted and after 5 years, were going strong! That place is going to be a lot of enjoyment for you, congrats again!
 
It's quite the place! I can envision what that place could look like in a couple years and it's a real gem! Got a solid foundation of how it breaks up, neighborhood, deer numbers and trees. Apples and pears out there would be great and I sure wouldn't hesitate putting some persimmons out. My old farm in van Buren county had many persimmons I planted and after 5 years, were going strong! That place is going to be a lot of enjoyment for you, congrats again!

Thanks Skip, about an acre of apple/pear and persimmon trees, that would really help...plus a few chainsaws/TSI and food plots:way:
 
I'm thinking it's time for me to plant my first fruit bearing trees. My land in Oklahoma is mostly oak and hickory with red cedars mixed in. Since it's my first go I'm trying to find the tree that gives me the highest chance of success. I'm leaning towards starting with 4 dolgo crabapples, or the wildlife group's mix of 4 different crabapples. I believe the dolgos are very cedar rust resistant, grow in nearly all soil types, and will be a good pollinator for other apple trees.

I'm not worried about these providing fruit for me to eat, this first year is all about the deer. Do you guys agree with dolgo or crabapples in general, or would you go a different way?
 
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Those are good choices. I hope you got water down there? I have been hauling water out to my trees since July,,and still doing it! Here in once wet Iowa!
 
I'd combine some other varieties that are more disease resistant and ripen at varying times. You can read earlier in this thread for all sorts of varieties. I'd mix it up and if you bundled some trees with a buddy, you can generally find trees for $7-8 which is really low cost vs any other type of food.
 
October 9th, 2011

A friend of mine has about 30 apple and pear trees that are 5 years old this year and finally starting to produce, so I look for some of mine to start this coming year as well. Lot's of things can cause failure in fruit trees of course but by planting a variety of disease resistant trees in our centralized feeding area we have a better chance of overall success. These trees are bearing fruit despite spring floods and summer drought that caused many annual plot crops to fail.

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Time to initiate a spraying program to increase yield and quality of fruit to help meet our goal of attracting and holding deer with year around food sources. With varieties that produce from July to late November along with those that are "winter keepers" that are likely to hang on the tree well past the first of the year...we have yet another means of insuring that whitetails will visit our feeding area all year long and avoid the disappointment that comes from a crop failure due to weather problems.... ;)
 
November 26th. 2011

Mike from Missouri sent me some pics of his new fruit tree orchard and method of planting...looks outstanding to me!

There are 37 trees in this orchard that we planted the weekend of October 7. Some of the varieties include Enterprise, Honeygold, Jonafree, Honeycrisp, Starkspur Arkansas Black, Prairifire Crabapple, Wildlife Crabapple, Profusion Crabapple, Manchurian Crabapple, Wolf River, Goldrush, Kieffer pear, Olympic Giant Asian Pear, Stark Honeysweet Pear, and Moonglow Pear.

Each tree was handled with extreme care and each got roughly 45 gallons of water that weekend, a rock mulch ring, a wood chip mulch ring around the rock mulch ring, three 6 ½ foot t-post, and 47 inch field fence held off the ground. I was unsure if we should take off the rodent tree protectors that came with the trees so we left them on and stapled window screen over them.

We also tied a rope from the supporting stake to the t-post in an effort to try and keep the wind from adding stress to the trees. The trees have received at least an inch of rain each week since planting which should help the roots get established before next summer’s stress.

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Very nicely done Mike! I would establish white clover around the trees and what a great combination that would make! :way:
 
Could not be setup better than Mike just did it!! Fantastic job!! Other than pruning this winter and some clover, that is about all he can do.
 
The bark protectors are fine for the winter, but remove them in the spring as they will likely attract borers or somesuch. An alternative to plastic tree guards is white latex paint on the trunks to help prevent injury in winter, plus wire mesh “mouse guards” that you've already put on.
 
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