Brassicas

Discussion in 'Dbltree's corner' started by dbltree, Jul 15, 2006.

  1. IowaBowHunter1983

    IowaBowHunter1983 Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    2,332
    Likes Received:
    1,223
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    SC Iowa
    The rain since 7/27 has made for some wonderful fall plots this year. Here are a few.
    Can't wait for hunt over these. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
     
  2. AdBot Guest Advertisement

  3. Tmayer13

    Tmayer13 PMA Member

    Messages:
    259
    Likes Received:
    252
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Iowa
    My brassicas are looking exceptional! The last pic was tall crp that I mowed then sprayed, then burned, but it had just rained that morning so it didn't burn all the old thatch...so I spread urea and radishes and just ran over it with a harrow, practically no till. Good adequate moisture has been a blessing for fall plots[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
     
    Sligh1 likes this.
  4. sirrloin

    sirrloin PMA Member

    Messages:
    89
    Likes Received:
    60
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Winterset
    Sprayed and burnt. No till and planted 7/28 with hand spreader. Had some open spots I filled in a couple weeks later but it should fill in quite nicely. [​IMG]

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
     
    Sligh1 likes this.
  5. DannyBoy

    DannyBoy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,957
    Likes Received:
    31
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Too far from where I hunt...
    Any of you ever worry about residual effect of 24d when following up a spray application with a seeding? I have always worried it would hurt germination therefore avoid its use, at times, when my windows are tight.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
     
  6. sirrloin

    sirrloin PMA Member

    Messages:
    89
    Likes Received:
    60
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Winterset
    I believe Midwest Whitetail just had a video on it. He planted too soon after using it and he had to go back and redo it. I know they usually say to wait a week or so after applying it

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
     
  7. Sligh1

    Sligh1 Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    6,367
    Likes Received:
    1,953
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Central, IA
    I give 2,4-d 5-7 days with zero impact. But- I also go no higher than labeled rate at all. (Many formulations of 2,4-d so read label). No issue for me in past.
    This season I had some new burn downs with 2,4-d & Gly. I actually came back with 2nd round of Gly the day I planted as a few bits of grass & weeds had came in during delay. Glad I got to get 2nd shot at the new weeds to be honest.

    If I’m spraying & planting same day- yep, leave it out. Super heavy Gly + ams & in some occasions -spice up with clethodim & crop oil.
    Above plots look great!!!!
     
  8. Tmayer13

    Tmayer13 PMA Member

    Messages:
    259
    Likes Received:
    252
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Iowa
    As Sligh mentioned 5-7 days and I've never had a problem. But as you can see in my photos there are clearly some weeds coming on. What I believe the issue was it was very dry for sometime before I planted and zero weeds were growing well at my farm I've had nearly 6" since planting date of 7/27 so all those dormant seeds took off and also the 250 lbs of N I'm sure they ate it up....this is why IMO for fall plots you almost have to nuke the crap our of things before hand

    Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk
     
  9. Daver

    Daver PMA Member

    Messages:
    5,815
    Likes Received:
    1,041
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Iowa City
    Just an FYI...for a couple of different reasons I planted some rutabagas as no till about 3-4 weeks ago and pretty much had a failed planting. In retrospect, I am pretty sure the culprit was too much thatch and then it didn't help that we weren't getting much rain during that period either. But the key was the excessive thatch and even though I ran a drag over the thatch after broadcasting the seed, I apparently still failed to get good seed to soil contact. Lesson learned. Some thatch can help preserve soil moisture...too much thatch and the seed doesn't get to the ground.
     
    Sligh1 likes this.
  10. Sligh1

    Sligh1 Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    6,367
    Likes Received:
    1,953
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Central, IA
    Daver- side ?.... have u planted rutabagas in past and what’s been response???? They have interested me for a while & I still haven’t tried them. Any feedback on them & even vs turnip/radish for how deer respond is great.
     
  11. Daver

    Daver PMA Member

    Messages:
    5,815
    Likes Received:
    1,041
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Iowa City
    This year was my first time planting them, but a neighbor planted them last year and had good results with them. For me...I will have to wait until next year to see how they do for me, as this year was pretty much a wipeout.
     
  12. Sligh1

    Sligh1 Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    6,367
    Likes Received:
    1,953
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Central, IA
    Used a cultimulcher to “no till” a little but different way for fun. Here’s results. No commercial nitrogen paid for in this example!
     
    Jbohn likes this.
  13. Tmayer13

    Tmayer13 PMA Member

    Messages:
    259
    Likes Received:
    252
    Trophy Points:
    63
    Location:
    Iowa
    so you nuked the clover then came back and broadcasted the brassicas then ran the cultimulcher over it? I dont see many of those types of implements but it looks to me like it just disturbs the top layer of soil? Im moving into no till for next year without a drill so looking for new ideas
     
  14. hillrunner

    hillrunner PMA Member

    Messages:
    1,834
    Likes Received:
    302
    Trophy Points:
    83
    Location:
    NW Iowa
    How much did you up the seeding rate using the cultimulcher compared to if you drilled it or would have tilled and cultipacked?
    I like this idea for areas that I have a lot of stumps in the ground.
     
  15. gunhunter

    gunhunter PMA Member

    Messages:
    294
    Likes Received:
    46
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    NE Iowa
    Planted these Aug 11. Off to the right start i would say[​IMG][​IMG]

    Sent from my SM-G935R4 using Tapatalk
     
    Sligh1 likes this.
  16. Sligh1

    Sligh1 Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    6,367
    Likes Received:
    1,953
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Central, IA
    I did this purely out of “fun” & “experimenting”. I know vid isn’t super detailed but the dirt was disturbed almost zero. I’d say it had less cutting or impact than even a no till drill. Which a drill is ideal but obviously cuts the soil a lil to get seed in.
    Ya- I nuked it with 2-3 qts Gly, some ams & I think 25-ish oz of one type of low vol 2,4-d. Gave it about 5 or so days.... spread the seed with bag seeder..... 5-6 lbs radish & 3-3.5 lbs purple top turnips. When drill, I probably reduce rate by 25-30%. Having maximum fertility sure provides a lot more forgiveness if u over or under seed it a little bit.

    Drove over with cultimulcher. Which is simply a cultipacker with 2 rows of rollers. Then, in center it has kinda like a harrow tine that scratches top & does pull off a little extra residue if it’s overloaded. That’s the key with this method. I did it in one other plot that had “too much trash” & u needed a drill or this cultimulcher..... the tines grabbed the extra junk when it was “way too much”. Raised up at end of plot & left the extra clumps of trash on side.

    Bottom line: this method worked & accomplished goal we all want.... Clearly seeing a solution to extra thatch & garbage (which we manage with: drill, disc, tiller, Fire, crimping, etc). Then it got the ground where u could kinda “see the soil” & know the little seed was firmly pressed against it & not sitting in limbo & had space to grow through. I like this method because it still left a good bit of thatch on top for moisture & soil health, etc. I would call this “no till”. I did not tear the dirt up basically at all. There’s natural mulch but not too much where it’s an issue. It was: SPRAY, SPREAD, RUN OVER (couple times on nasty thatch plot) & walk away. With clover burnt: no added N & I also had almost ZERO WEEDS. *if look close- u can see a few “bare spots”. Maybe where thatch was touch too thick- who knows. If im fussy (which usually I am) - id drop a little more seed in those bare spots. This year- I’m gonna just call that “done” ;)

    *cultipackers or mulchers are hard to find. Old!! Some are made new & at that point- maybe look into used drill. I still like a drill if folks take time to get seed rate & DEPTH correct on brassicas. & they can afford. IMO - a mild compromise would be a VERY LIGHT disc, just enough to break up trash & just touch into soil + packer, roller, harrow, whatever after that. Lot of options but: less tillage will have a gazillion benefits. Hope that helps. Good luck.
     
    Slick likes this.
  17. Slick

    Slick Member

    Messages:
    45
    Likes Received:
    39
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    When you say cultimulcher are you talking about something like this? I only ask because I call it a cultipacker. I did exactly what you recommended to me. I sprayed it early June and then again mid July. I put down Seed, Lime, P&K, then cultipacked in that order. I did it in that order because I figured if the seed was down first all the driving I was doing putting down the fertilizer would get the seed to the ground. I then put treated Urea over the top that someone was nice enough to get for me. I did this all on the same day. I seeded about a 25% heaver than what double tree recommended because the ground was completely undisturbed. I thought some would not take. Turns out most of the seed took and its a little over planted. Some weeds did come up but over all going to be a lot of food. 1.jpg Resized_20190822_141539.jpeg
     
    Sligh1 and Daver like this.
  18. Sligh1

    Sligh1 Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    6,367
    Likes Received:
    1,953
    Trophy Points:
    113
    Location:
    Central, IA
    Wow- now that’s SUCCESS!!!!! Whoa!!!!

    Yep- that’s standard cultipacker & JUST FINE!!!! Slight advantage with cultimulcher having one more component to it - as it clears thatch & tines do extra work. I wouldn’t be fussy.... I’d keep what u have & others don’t need to be too fussy on what they buy later.
    Like I said- cultimulcher will have advantage in heavy thatch & stuff. If u don’t have it.... can still do lots of things like: Harrow, shred with mower, light disc, etc. But- here’s the adjustable tines on cultimulcher u can adjust how aggressive or light u want it. Could just have light enough to move trash around or deeper to scratch a little.
    The genius of 40-100 years ago still lives on. The unit I dusted off a few weeks ago is for sure older than I am. Remember - these plots - a million ways to skin this cat so don’t get too caught up on exact tool. So many variations & all can be effective if you take into account + & - & do the extra work XYZ method might create. All effective. Maybe next year I’ll take out weed whipper & rake just to prove to myself any way is possible. ;). Ok- maybe not.

    BUT!!!!!...... true story..... my first food plot at 14-15 years old (25 years ago!!) was with a RAKE in the middle of the woods clearing a spot & planting sugar beets one seed at a time. Took all day. Full Shade in forest. U know how awesome that plot turned out?!?!?!! I bet u can!!! Clearly not one single plant & a clear 100% failure. So great!!!!! :)
    [​IMG]


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    Tim Hull and Slick like this.
  19. DannyBoy

    DannyBoy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,957
    Likes Received:
    31
    Trophy Points:
    48
    Location:
    Too far from where I hunt...
    Cultimunchers are awesome both before and after seeding. Like skip said, can remove heavy thatch, almost like adding a landscape rake to a packer. We use in tandem with a disc or tiller to prepare seedbeds and I think that is where they really shine, as they pack loose stuff firm but leave a soft layer right on top from the tines. Also agree that they have a place in no till systems - my works has several adjustments on the tines to where they can really dig, just scratch or stay up completely.

    I dont see very many and agree again that if new is your option, get a used drill. Good stuff, Skip.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
     
  20. sirrloin

    sirrloin PMA Member

    Messages:
    89
    Likes Received:
    60
    Trophy Points:
    18
    Location:
    Winterset
    It's been a month now since the spray, burn and broadcast. Things have filled in nicely. [​IMG][​IMG]

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
     
    Tmayer13 and hillrunner like this.
  21. 2dblind

    2dblind Active Member

    Messages:
    136
    Likes Received:
    41
    Trophy Points:
    28
    Location:
    NE Iowa
    How does everyone spread the top dressing of fertilizer after planting? I don’t want to damage the plants with a 4 wheeler but, would really not like to walk a 4 acre plot with a little hand spreader.

    What’s best for the fertilizer now? I’ve seen 46-0-0 and others mention 34-0-0. I did 150#/acre when planting of 46-0-0 a month ago today.
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice