Hard to load !!!!

Discussion in 'Muzzleloading and Traditional Archery' started by moosehunter, Feb 14, 2009.

  1. moosehunter

    moosehunter PMA Member

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    I like reading Randy Wakemans articals. I concider him an inline expert and very experienced. This is one I missed that should help with my "tight" Barnes.

    Hard to load sabot
     
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  3. Shovelbuck

    Shovelbuck Active Member

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    Good read. This is the reason Hornady came out with the "Go/No Go" gauges.
     
  4. JNRBRONC

    JNRBRONC Active Member

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    Yes, sabot/bullet fit is very important for accuracy! /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
     
  5. Fishbonker

    Fishbonker Well-Known Member

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    Huh. I thought if the bullet was tight and hard to load ya just got a stiffer ramrod and a big hammer. What’s a few thousands of an inch? (He asked rhetorically) I’ve always believed in the “pound it to fit” theory of sizing.

    OK, that brought a real question to mind. Where does the air go that is being compressed by the bullet as you push it down the barrel? Does it escape around the bullet in the rifling? What if you are using an old smooth bore with a patch and ball? Would the air stay compressed under the bullet or would it, like I think it would, escape around the patch? Is there ever a time the bullet is so tight the air does stay compressed under the bullet?

    Nuther question, when you are pushing the sabot or maybe a soft lead bullet down the barrel does it spin in the rifling like a bolt going through a nut or does it just slide across the ridges? Seems to me the sabot or bullet would have to conform to the rifling and spin on its way in or it would peel off pieces of plastic or lead. How deep are the ridges cut in the rifling? I’ve looked down the barrels of my guns in the past and I’m pretty unimpressed with how deep the groves are. Do the groves get deeper with bigger bores?

    The ‘Bonker
     
  6. JNRBRONC

    JNRBRONC Active Member

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    Bonk's,

    The majority of plastic sabots and cloth patches don't fit tight enough to trap air when seating them.

    There was a debate about allowing the sabot/bullet to rotate with the rifling when seating. This spawned the SpinJag. I've heard people say they don't see any improvement in accuracy when they use one.
     
  7. Shovelbuck

    Shovelbuck Active Member

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    Bonker, On patched round balls, the patch, if fitting correctly, prevents air from escaping around it. The air is simply pushed out the nipple opening. They also go down the bore like a nut on a bolt, gripping the rifling which is usually around .010 to .012 deep on round ball only guns. Guns that shoot sabots or lead bullets have shallower and faster twist rifling. Sabots are also a bit looser fit but the base allows them to expand, IE... "upset" and seal the bore at firing. Same principle as a hollow based mini ball.
     
  8. Guest

    Guest Guest

    A good sabot will be bore size plus over the bullet and something less than bore size on the skirt. As Jay said the firing pressure will seal it nicely upon ignition. Bore lube or the lack there of as well as temperature all can contribute to difficult loading.
    A good clean rust free bore, very lightly lubed and a proper fitting sabot make for easy one hand loading.. Bore butter and sub freezing temperature and you will need a jack hammer and a steal rod to seat it.
     

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