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Brassicas

Started my first combo strip plot yesterday and plan the brassicas for about 3 weeks from now--Michigan timing as a second, and plan a third for the winter with rye and whatever else will work with that.

DNO
i'm going up there for sure some day
 
Dbltree, last year was our first successful year for brassicas. When January rolled around with the snow the deer attacked our little brassica plot. One thing that puzzled me a little bit though, is the deer didn't touch the actual turnip roots. Does it take the deer a while to learn to eat the roots? The ground was pretty hard, but nothing like what you guys face temperature-wise.
 
Dbltree, last year was our first successful year for brassicas. When January rolled around with the snow the deer attacked our little brassica plot. One thing that puzzled me a little bit though, is the deer didn't touch the actual turnip roots. Does it take the deer a while to learn to eat the roots? The ground was pretty hard, but nothing like what you guys face temperature-wise.

Sometimes....depends on the availability of other food sources but usually they will figure out those roots are good to eat and then will plow snow for them!:way:
 
Dbltree, last year was our first successful year for brassicas. When January rolled around with the snow the deer attacked our little brassica plot. One thing that puzzled me a little bit though, is the deer didn't touch the actual turnip roots. Does it take the deer a while to learn to eat the roots? The ground was pretty hard, but nothing like what you guys face temperature-wise.

Same happened for us with our first succesful brassica plot last year.. purple top turnips and rape. We found one turnip that had was half eaten, that was it.. there wasn't a leaf left come spring though!
 
Sometimes....depends on the availability of other food sources but usually they will figure out those roots are good to eat and then will plow snow for them!:way:

That's what I hope happens this year, it seemed such a waste when tilling all those rotting turnips up this past spring. This year we'll be adding groundhog radishes to the menu, I'm excited to see what happens!

Same happened for us with our first succesful brassica plot last year.. purple top turnips and rape. We found one turnip that had was half eaten, that was it.. there wasn't a leaf left come spring though!

I hear you there! The deer were even nibbling on the green regrowing from the spent turnip roots this past spring.
 
It will be time to seed brassicas before we know it.:) I have always used the expensive name brand seed in the past, but this year I plan to order from welter seed. As a rule do you usually plant about 10 lbs of different mix per acre? I have picked out what I am interested in from their list.
 
It will be time to seed brassicas before we know it.:) I have always used the expensive name brand seed in the past, but this year I plan to order from welter seed. As a rule do you usually plant about 10 lbs of different mix per acre? I have picked out what I am interested in from their list.

If planting only rape and turnips, 5#'s is plenty to that you can add up to 5#'s of forage radish but that is only going to be successful if you fertilize heavily!

I use 200#'s urea and 400#'s of 6-28-28 although on very fertile soils you may need little or no P&K (soil test as if for corn to know for certain)

Just like corn however, brassicas require plenty of nitrogen and lacking it they will suffer on most soils.

The reason you can add forage radish (appearing to double the rate) is because deer will generally choose it first by late August to early September effectively thinning the plot. This helps keep them from wiping out the rape and turnips before season however so it makes a great combo.

The following mix will work great for just about anyone anywhere...

3# Purple Turnips
2# Dwarf Essex Rape
5# GroundHog Forage Radish

Do not substitute the radish seed for another brassica such as rape or turnips...;)
 
Mid July is brassica planting time in most of the Midwest, slightly sooner in the far north and a little later in the south and since there are always new people exploring these threads it's worth while to hit some high points and summarize a few key planting points.

In General...

1) Keep your food sources centrally located rather then multiple plots spread over the farm. Depending on deer densities, roughly 3-6 acres per 80-120 acres.

2) Plant multiple crops within any given plot or field, rather then brassicas in plot A and clover in plot B.

3)Adapt deer to coming to one place to feed year around by planting a combination of food sources that FEED them year around.

4) Clover, brassicas and cereal grains make a great crop rotation to also provide year around feed.

5) Plant different crops in strips or blocks that cause deer to move from one food source to another rather then congregating in one place, in effect wiping out a given food source.

Multiple strips in a large field

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A simple 3 strip combination in a small place

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White clover provides a food source nearly year around, brassicas from July thru March and the winter rye/oats/peas/radish and red clover from September to the following summer when tilled under for a rotation to brassicas. If your new and learning, get your mind clear of the idea that you are just planting for hunting season unless you want them to start living on the neighbors place??

Get away from the notion that an entire field must be planted to one crop rather then multiple crops and buy seed with the knowledge that "Buck on a Bag " seed is not magic nor one bit more attractive then good quality seed from your local supplier.

Brassicas

How much of what seed to plant?

This topic can get confusing but this ratio will work well for most people

3# Purple Top Turnips
2# Dwarf Essex rape
5# Groundhog forage radish
if you remove the radish seed you cannot add 5 more pounds of rape or turnips...why?

Deer will focus on the forage radish first, in effect thinning the stand but at the same time relieving pressure from the rape and turnips allowing them to mature. This is GHFR in a mixed stand in late August....

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There is a method to my madness and a reason why things work or don't work so while any mix can be tweaked I have found this one to work very well on multiple farms in many different situations.

You can switch turnip or rape varieties but if you read back thru this thread you'll see that never once have deer showed a preference for any other rape or turnip variety over those old standbys listed. That being said any of them will work well.

This brassica plot has ALL of the major "brand" brassica seed planted in strips along side standard varieties such as those listed above that cost a fraction as much and it is impossible to tell the difference nor did deer choose one over another.

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How much fertilizer?

If you want your brassica stand to look like this...you'll need to plan to fertilize heavily unless yo are blessed with naturally rich, fertile soils and even then you cannot keep taking not not putting back.

Brassicaswestfield.jpg


A general guideline is to use 200#'s of urea and 400#'s of 6-28-28 or 400-500#'s of triple 19. If your tilling under a lush crop of clover you may need less nitrogen but those are basic numbers to start with. If you are on a very limited budget, brassica s are probably not your best option because like corn they are somewhat expensive to grow. if you have never planted them before, start small...don't bet the farm on them the first year. Plant them along side cereals and clovers and see how deer react to them and then go from there, sometimes they wipe them out the first year other times they may adapt to them slowly over 2-3 years.

Welter Seed is a great source for seeds by the pound at a reasonable price but always check with your local supplier first to avoid shipping and handling costs if you can.

After telling Aaron Palm of Iowa-Missouri hybrids in Keosauqua my seed needs, he agreed to carry all of them, again at very reasonable prices minus the shipping costs, so sometimes a visit to your local seed supply can be worth while.

Brassicas are an important tool in our whitetail management programs but when starting out be aware of the limitations and requirements involved in successfully growing a lush, healthy stand of high quality brassicas.... :way:
 
Dtree: I normally plant my brassica in late July or August, but this year I have an acre that I planted in early June. It was broadcast seeded and then it didn't rain for 10 days, after that it has been cool and wet.

Checked it last evening and it is kind of hit and miss. It appears that I will have to mow it as weeds are common and outpacing the brassica seed.

Do you see any drawbacks to mowing in August, or any other recommendation, I could re-do it but would prefer not to.
 
I planted a 70 foot wide strip of corn, on both ends the corn is doing really well, in the middle of the strip, poor soil conditions at planting lead to a poor stand, and is very thin. The soil is very "clay Knob" like and become very hard very quick, Im planning on putting brassicas in at this spot. The thin spot consist of about 1/4 of an acre or so.

First, I fertilized heavily, but will brassicas grow very well in clay soil? Second, will broadcasting before a rain yeild a sufficent stand?

My other thought is I have access to a 1000 gallon water tank with a pump, if I saturate the area with water, then broadcast and water again would this enough to cover the seed as along as I don't drown it?
 
Do you see any drawbacks to mowing in August, or any other recommendation, I could re-do it but would prefer not to.

You can clip it (don't mow it close) and it may recover but most likely will not recover in the way you hope. Keep us posted however if you do mow and let us know how it works out?

Stinger and clethodim are weed control options for brassicas also...

First, I fertilized heavily, but will brassicas grow very well in clay soil? Second, will broadcasting before a rain yeild a sufficent stand?

All of mine are grown in heavy clay soils and they may do alright with a good soaking but more then likely in your dry soils the seed will germinate and then lacking continual moisture...will die. If you get timely rains it can do great overseeded so you would have to weigh the odds on that versus conventional tilling and seeding. ;)
 
Not feeling like shelling out the cash for a cultipacker this year, what are people using for a home brew model on brassicas? Chainlink fence? Tire? Tiller? I cant find one for less than $500 and these food plots are starting to get expensive so its going to have to wait a year before I get one.
 
Not feeling like shelling out the cash for a cultipacker this year, what are people using for a home brew model on brassicas? Chainlink fence? Tire? Tiller? I cant find one for less than $500 and these food plots are starting to get expensive so its going to have to wait a year before I get one.

The best thing I have found is to run the ATV back n forth over any small seeds like brassicas or clover. Little time consuming but it works perfectly!

I do this before seeding, then broadcast seed, then run the the ATV back over it...:way:
 
Perhaps all of your old dealerships have already been scavenged, but I found two old cultipackers for $45 bucks a year ago, at a Bolivar, MO, old implement dealer. I'm talking about the "dealer" who's 90 years old and has every possible piece of farming junk you can imagine setting on his place. They used to be everywhere around here, until scrap metal got so high.
 
The best thing I have found is to run the ATV back n forth over any small seeds like brassicas or clover. Little time consuming but it works perfectly!

I do this before seeding, then broadcast seed, then run the the ATV back over it...:way:

I did this a couple of years ago with my truck after discing up an acre of clover and the plot turned out fine. There's more than 1 way to skin a cat.
 
In the background is a little plot I planted a couple weeks ago with Evolved Harvest Shot Plot Forage Rape and Brassicas that I bought from Farm & Fleet. I planted it last September with Biologic Maximum and the deer cleared that off. About a month ago I sprayed it ,then, two weeks ago, I raked off the leaves and sticks with a garden rake, broadcasted the Shot Plot, then broadcasted a bag of Triple 13, then used the ATV method to cultipack it because I can't get my cultipacker back that far into the timber. This spot is very low light from a lot of trees around and is sandy soil. It's right next to one of my deer stands, but, it seems to be doing well. Not a single weed in it..........yet. I think I went a little heavy on the seed too. In the foreground is a plot of Biologic Clover Plus that I planted last year. The deer are absolutely annihalating the chicory in the Biologic plot. Thanks Dbltree for all the info on IowaWhitetail that made these plots possible! :way:
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If you are planning on turning under some sod to plant brassicas, it's extremely important to get the sod killed first. ideally it's best to mow it, allow it to re-grow a week or so and then kill it with glyphosate. Due to abnormally heavy rainfall this spring and summer I finally had no choice but to spray some 4' high cool season grass "as is". I used 2 quarts of 41% gly, 1 quart of crop oil along with AMS and it nuked the grass within a week, after which it finally dried out enough to get get mowed.

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Decomposing sod can suck a lot of moisture and nitrogen out of the soil in the first few weeks after being tilled under, so I like to get it tilled under a few weeks ahead of time when possible.

Workingsod.jpg


Breaking up the sod grass ahead of time also allows fescue seeds to germinate and then killed by tilling them under before planting and it's also a great time to get lime and P&K tilled in. Landowners that live far from there property may find they need to do everything in one weekend but for those who are able to get work done as needed, consider getting any sod areas broken up ahead of time. ;)
 
what's the best choice of brassica to overseed into late planted soybeans or does it make much difference. I plan on overseeding both rye and brassicas either together or in separate strips.
 
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