I do it at planting.
hillrunner
PMA Member
Does anyone else notice your fence becoming less effective after a few years? I've got a 3 acre field on its 3rd year of being fenced. It was almost perfect the first year but I'm seeing more intrusion every year.
On the other hand, I fenced another 1 acre plot for the first time this year. That plot is on the same farm and has had zero intrusion.
I'm thinking I may have to come up with a more effective fence.
On the other hand, I fenced another 1 acre plot for the first time this year. That plot is on the same farm and has had zero intrusion.
I'm thinking I may have to come up with a more effective fence.
Interesting!!!!!!!! Curious what others say!!!!
I haven’t noticed that. BUT- I did notice that when I accidentally left the switch off on one of my energizer/electrifier - they destroyed that plot!!!!
Daver
PMA Member
Yes, at planting time.
Jbohn
Well-Known Member
I forgot to snap a pic but my Eagle Mid West blend is pushing over 4ft tall and loaded with pods, don't have a lot of experience to compare if it would be equal to ag bean production , but they look amazing . Ill take a pic in a few weeks when I get back . I will tell you that they engulfed my inside fence and are laying over it pushing it down which has allowed some deers to get in . Not sure much I can do at this point with that problem . Learning for next year .. I also have a few acres of unfenced which got browsed pretty hard say mid calf height I am going to drill Double tree Mix right into them in September and let her eat ... Love no tilling what a game changer .. Planted 4 acres big n beasty in record time started popping 4 days later.. ANy body want to buy a disk or tiller
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Daver
PMA Member
I am not an expert, but where I have done just what you have mentioned above, (CRP to corn) I have had trouble with first year corn even when I worked the ground and incorporated fertilizer pre-planting. In the future...I will probably "bean it" year one and then rotate to corn. Again, not an expert, but I do have experience.
I'd go Beans year 1
Bassattackr
Well-Known Member
I suspect it has something to do with the microbes needing a lot of N to metabolize all that carbon from the grasses.
If going corn, I bet you’d have to use more N due to feeding the microbes. Maybe even a split application. But I don’t have the experience to have tried, only a theory.. Perhaps why beans tend to do better year 1
If going corn, I bet you’d have to use more N due to feeding the microbes. Maybe even a split application. But I don’t have the experience to have tried, only a theory.. Perhaps why beans tend to do better year 1
Jbohn
Well-Known Member
Just a few question for you corn guys ,
Going to Plant 2 acres of Non- GMO nutri crave , fenced .
I have a no-till this will be after beans this year , going treat urea (300 Lbs ) and broadcast at planting with P and K (100Lbs) . Any reason I should till the ground. Would rather not . ?
I'm going to try to plant on 15 inch rows at 26,000 seed to a acre .. Ill spray Gly and Pre Emerge herbicides at time of planting .
Any Advice ?
Going to Plant 2 acres of Non- GMO nutri crave , fenced .
I have a no-till this will be after beans this year , going treat urea (300 Lbs ) and broadcast at planting with P and K (100Lbs) . Any reason I should till the ground. Would rather not . ?
I'm going to try to plant on 15 inch rows at 26,000 seed to a acre .. Ill spray Gly and Pre Emerge herbicides at time of planting .
Any Advice ?
1) Do not work the ground.
2) sooner u can get p&k down the better. Just so it’s able to break down. Winter freeze/thaw helps there. If u have taken great care of soil in past- probably no big deal and do it at time of planting with urea.
3) get your pre-emergent herbicides really dialed in. Acuron for example. Have a post emergent cocktail ready for second pass (likely needed)…. 2,4-d, atrazine or simazine, metolachlor or acetolachlor & a few other options.
T_Max
PMA Member
I need some help determining timing for my first attempt at corn this year. I had a soil test done and the P&K are at good levels. Obviously I need to put down a substantial amount of N at some point. Plot is currently in soybean stubble. I broadcast a variety of seed over it last fall, but due to the drought, only the cereal rye took. What is my best timing to terminate the rye and then put down urea prior to planting? I have a cone spreader for the urea. Should I plan on incorporating it at all? John Deere 7000 planter currently has no-till coulters on it. I am in the process of getting trash whippers installed. Thoughts?
Tmayer13
Well-Known Member
If you are not going to incorporate the N then I would recommend getting it treated. I put my fertilizer down a few days after it was planted this year and had amazing success. When you buy your seed I would say something to the dealer you are getting it from, there have been cases where corn going into rye can have some issues. But if it was me I would terminate immediately.
Bassattackr
Well-Known Member
If not incorporating, granular AMS (21-0-0-24S) is your friend. Even treated Urea will have substantial losses.
AMS is super stable, the sulfur is a great bonus that corn needs as well. It's also a much slower release than Urea.
Good read on the topic:
blog-crop-news.extension.umn.edu
AMS is super stable, the sulfur is a great bonus that corn needs as well. It's also a much slower release than Urea.
Good read on the topic:
Corn planting and nitrogen management: 5 things to consider
By: Fabian Fernandez, Extension nitrogen management specialist Spring has finally arrived in Minnesota and the field season is in full swing...
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T_Max
PMA Member
Something I hadn't considered. I am reading up on it now and there is a good bit to learn here! Thanks!