Buck Hollow Sporting Goods - click or touch to visit their website Midwest Habitat Company

All your brassica planting questions answered...

Daver

PMA Member
here in this post. Well, maybe not. :D But we will try!

Every year there many questions asked here about planting brassicas. Although I do not consider myself an expert, I am an experienced novice and if there is a food plotting mistake...I have probably made it! :D.

Nevertheless, I took some pictures at my farm this past weekend and each of the three fields that I will show you are in good to excellent shape right now...and NONE of them were planted under ideal conditions and/or timing.

I mainly want to convey that if you miss the ideal planting window or can't plant them "just right", etc, that you can still make it work out.

Field #1.
I had the timing right on this field...the planting date was 7/25. BUT, it was very wet, too wet really to be out on the field with my tractor...but, ya gotta do what you gotta do sometimes.

I would rate this field as good to very good at this point, which I will take given the planting circumstances. I had planted buckwheat in this field in the spring and wet fields prevented me from prepping the field the way I wanted to. So on planting day I broadcast the brassica seed into a sea of spent buckwheat, somewhat still standing, and weeds/grass that were coming on strong as the buckwheat waned.

I then, on the same day, mowed the leftover buckwheat and weeds down and then my son sprayed the mess with roundup. We sprayed it one more time with clethodim only on 8/15, after the brassica had germinated and there were still some grasses fighting for their lives out there. The field cleaned up pretty well after that...except for the buckwheat that "volunteered". So the pic shows a pretty good field of brassicas mixed with a weak stand of buckwheat that doesn't appear to be outcompeting the brassica too much.

The moral of this story...even when it is too wet to work the ground, if you can get that tiny seed on the bare soil somehow and then by whatever means necessary, kill off the weed/grass competition, you can still overcome brother! :D Also, we broadcast urea and P&K on this field and let the next rain take the fertilizer into the soil.

161-2015_5_acre.jpg


Field #2.

I had mowed and sprayed this field ahead of time and it was looking good on that angle, but I had a tractor problem suddenly and could not shift into reverse. I had my box scraper on at the time...so I worked this ground with the box scraper. I dropped the scarifiers down to break the soil and made it work.

I ended up with very bare soil, but not really worked up like I had hoped, and then broadcast my seed and fertilizer and let the next rain, which came soon thereafter, take it in. This field looks just about perfect at this time, I would rate this as excellent. All of the field work took place on 8/8, or a little after the ideal late July timeframe and I didn't have time to cultipack it.

The moral here...plant in front of a nice rain! It covers all.

161-2015_new_blind.jpg


Field #3.
This field is good to very good and was planted on 8/15. The thin spot in the foreground is under a big oak tree, so that is to be expected there. This planting was kind of an afterthought. I had a little seed to burn and I disked that ground up that day. (It had been sprayed with Roundup a week or two before, so it was nice and dead at the time.)

We spread the seed, fertilized and cultipacked all in the same day and finished up in the dark. A subsequent rain made it all good. This field is a little behind the others of course, but it is going to be a nice planting.

The moral here is that you can get them in a little late and still be good...but you are more dependent on getting some timely rain...which we did.

161-2015_2_oaks.jpg
 
Very nice!! How much clethodim would you use in a 4 gallon back sprayer as I have some grasses also trying to compete with my brassica? Thanks
 
Daver - thanks for the informative post! I'm in Southcentral PA...we have planted brassica as late as Labor Day and still gotten a fairly decent crop, but I think we can go a little longer before we get a frost.

We put down some brassica seed on a very small plot on 9/4 this year, and it's getting a nice rain from last night through this morning. Even if we had planted "on time", it's been 3 weeks since we have seen a drop of rain...
 
About 5oz of cleth and 5 oz of crop oil should be good in that amount of water

I can't recall right off...but we go by the label for cleth and then add a little bit extra...but strictly by the label for the crop oil.

Also, if you have a relatively small plot and only "some" grass...you could just just weed whack the tops off of the grass, over the brassicas over course.
 
Just looking for opinions/past experiences. My local coop chemical guy told me for my 25 gallon atv tank to mix 2-3 oz of Section 2 (clethodim) with 1 pint of Superb HC (crop oil) per acre. He said that would be more than plenty to nuke the grass in my brassica/turnip plots. When I said some people were spraying their plots with 16-20 oz of clethodim he just laughed and rolled his eyes "I could tell he was thinking dumb city slickers". Then he said they (the coop) spray volunteer corn in soybeans up to 8" in height with 2-3 oz per acre of Section 2 and 1 pint of Superb HC and it nukes it. He said if the volunteer corn gets 1-2' in height they will increase the rate to up to 4-6 oz of Section 2 per acre. Just curious why some are using 8x-10x the amount of clethodim per acre compared to what the coop told me to use especially when it runs $60-$100 per gallon? Are those using the higher rates doing so because the have had poor success killing the grass with lower rates?
 
Last edited:
I believe the label said do not to exceed 6-8 oz per acre for leafy brassicas in single application but will have to check again tomorrow. Just wondering if the Superb HC (crop oil) worked more efficiently and that is why he recommended the lower rate. I want to get a good kill but don't want to harm the plot. I will mix heavy if needed.
 
Just looking for opinions/past experiences. My local coop chemical guy told me for my 25 gallon atv tank to mix 2-3 oz of Section 2 (clethodim) with 1 pint of Superb HC (crop oil) per acre. He said that would be more than plenty to nuke the grass in my brassica/turnip plots. When I said some people were spraying their plots with 16-20 oz of clethodim he just laughed and rolled his eyes "I could tell he was thinking dumb city slickers". Then he said they (the coop) spray volunteer corn in soybeans up to 8" in height with 2-3 oz per acre of Section 2 and 1 pint of Superb HC and it nukes it. He said if the volunteer corn gets 1-2' in height they will increase the rate to up to 4-6 oz of Section 2 per acre. Just curious why some are using 8x-10x the amount of clethodim per acre compared to what the coop told me to use especially when it runs $60-$100 per gallon? Are those using the higher rates doing so because the have had poor success killing the grass with lower rates?

IMO, many of us small time plotters use a little stronger rate of clethodim and glyphosphate than the label recommends just to guard against areas with a little less than perfect coverage. Many of us are using ATV mounted sprayers without foam markers to show where we have sprayed and so forth.

A pro using a big time sprayer has a huge advantage over us weekend warriors and can easily be more confident of a consistent application from a real sprayer than we can from a comparatively very small one. SAo it's more of a hedge against missing areas and going too fast in certain spots and getting less consistent application.

A little more gly or cleth, while perhaps a little more expensive per acre, is not a real big extra cost for the amateur and doesn't hurt anything. However, too much crop oil can burn the plant very easily, so you have to be more precise with it.
 
I was just giving you my rate that I spray....I ha e a backpack sprayer that holds 4.75gal...I was measuring out 4-5oz of cleth and 4-5oz of crop oil and filling the sprayer plum full of water...I had a lot of volunteer oats that came back in one of my plots....I went over this particular area with that rate and it smoked the oats and my brassicas look fantastic....as a guy who is involved in the AG world I think what Daver said is about as spot on as a guy could say!
 
Ok maybe dumb question but why is crop oil so hard on plants. I thought it was just oil and used to help the herbicide stick to the grass leaves. How does a few ounces of excess oil burn off the brassicas?
 
Top Bottom