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Any Bridge Engineers out there?

Field Service

Field Service

New Member
Okay this is what I’m up against. I need to get my tractor and 3pt implements across a 4’ ditch. I use to use a shallow creek crossing, but that isn’t an option now. It’s silted in and getting DEEP, like to the hubs on a D17. Low side of road gear and a running start is very iffy to not making it across…

I’d like to drop a 30" culvert in and dump a tandom load of large rock over it, but cost is preventing that at the moment. Option two is some rail road ties and some planking to make a bridge.

Here’s the questions. How many rail road ties will I need to support about, oh say 6500 lbs to be on the safe side. Actual span will only be about 4 ish feet. I wasn’t going to go crazy with planking on top, say typical 5/4 treated decking from one of the big stores.

Wondering if two rail road ties (in good condition) under each wheel would be enough. I don’t want to cut it close, because it would be quite a drop if it gave.

I could pour a couple cement pads on each side of the ditch to keep the ties out of the dirt if that would help.

Please give me your thoughts.

Thanks…
 
IMHO, I don't think that just laying some RR ties down and making a short bridge will work or be safe. One reason is that you would have to have some really long ties. I know your only crossing 4 ft of ditch, but the ground around the dich, say 3 to 4 foot from the ditch is not really as stable as one would think. I guess personally if you are going to buy all those materials, RR tie, planking and cement, I would be just as cheap to get some used culvert and that load or 2 of rock. JMO.
 
I wouldn't be afraid of it........If it were mine I'd find a used telephone pole (the type used to run high voltage line) cut in three ten foot sections and span across leaving three foot extra on each side. Use your 5/4 planking to run perpendicular across the three poles........I think you'd be fine. Make sure the pole you use is at least a 16" in diameter.
 
I would use a culvert. But I would just cover it with fill dirt(cheaper). Then get some field rock to use for rip rap on both sides. We always use dirt when we replace culverts and haven't had any problems. It sounds like you have a lot of water I would make sure a 30" pipe is big enough.
 
I agree with Critter, use some old utility poles. Local REC's will usually give them away or part with them for a minimal fee. I am in the process of doing the same. Hooper is replacing all the lines and poles down my road and we already got a few lined up.
 
Trust me, I would much rather go the culvert route, but a large dollar tractor repair had me looking for a cheaper option.

Never thought of the utility pole option. I'll look around for some.
 
I've got some treated beams that would work for you. I've built lots of these for crossings in my timber. You are welcome to a few
if you want them. I'm in SE Iowa. Shoot me a PM if your interested.
 
I'd got with the culvert.

As stated above, backfill with dirt instead of rock. You'll get better compaction around your pipe and it will be more stable. Some 3" stone or crushed concrete would make great rip-rap on either side of the culvert and take care of any erosion issues.

The utility pole solution would be a better option than any other beams. If you're going to go to the expense of concrete bases for the wood then you'll outspend what you'd have done for a culvert.
 
2 years of drafting back in high-school, so my Dead Load/Live Load calculations are a little rusty.....

I am in a similar situation. I need to span about 6' wide over water, just enough to get a skid loader across. Say a Bobcat T190. I was thinking 2 RR ties per track would be enough.

Please take pictures of whatever you come up with.
 
The secret to any building project is to have a plan when it falls in, i.e.: how you gonna get the tractor or bobcat outta the water when the bridge collapses?

I'm just sayin.....

The thing that has stopped me from doin lots of stuff is "what if it breaks". Anymore I don't do anything until I know I can unscrew what I just screwed up. And if I can't unscrew it I never attempt it without somebody around to dial 911(and hope to God that the person doin the dialin dails "1" twice and doesn't try to find an eleven on the key pad.

However, there is no better feeling in the world than over coming a problem with common sense and self reliance.

But then again my other motto, besides "got bourbon?", is "if I build it, it will fall".

The 'Bonker
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: midwestfoodplots</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Man up! Put a ramp on both sides.

make sure the video camera is on during testing. </div></div>

And say "Hey watch this" just before you start.

The 'Bonker
 
And hope I'm still breathing to receive the check from Bob Saggett for 10 grand.... (which would pay for the new culvert!)
 
I would probably build a jump, and get some momentum! Sorry - I'm not a bridge builder.

One of my buddies actually used an old flat bed semi trailer (without wheels) to cross one of his creeks! That's a big hard-core and takes a crane - you should see the video! he he he...
 
And make sure you understand the "3rd Times the charm" rule. If you've already gotten the skid loader unstuck 2 times previously with minimal effort, realize that the 3rd time will be a major undertaking. ergo, make sure its stuck in such a way that another vehicle can pull you out /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif BTDT
 
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