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Any difference between 46-0-0 & 40-0-0

iowathumper

Active Member
I assume the 46-0-0 has more Nitrogen then the 40-0-0

Local co-op this year only had 40-0-0 where as in past years always 46-0-0

Just wondering if I needed to buy more.
 
40 and 46 are just %'s per 100 lbs. So, it's ACTUAL 40 lbs of Nitrogen VS 46. 40 likely could be treated Urea, at least possible. All those #'s are is actual % per 100 lbs. So, 25-25-25 for example, if you put down a 100 lbs would have 25 lbs of each N, P & K actually put down.
 
I assume the 46-0-0 has more Nitrogen then the 40-0-0

Local co-op this year only had 40-0-0 where as in past years always 46-0-0

Just wondering if I needed to buy more.

How many units of N are you trying to put on???

Example: if you're looking for 100 units of N for whatever crop you're planting you would divide those 100 units by whatever product your putting on to find out how many total pounds of that product it takes for you to get the desired units. So back to the 100 units it would take 250lbs of 40-0-0 in order to get your desired amount of N.
 
Speaking of urea.... do most places have the treated variety? ...haven't called around yet. Thinking for fruit trees.... be a lot easier to just spread on ground and not worry about getting worked in.... cages and all.
 
Speaking of urea.... do most places have the treated variety? ...haven't called around yet. Thinking for fruit trees.... be a lot easier to just spread on ground and not worry about getting worked in.... cages and all.

Any Coop should carry it and have a cart to rent as well. Don't need to worry about incorporating it if you plan to put it down ahead of some rain.
 
Speaking of urea.... do most places have the treated variety? ...haven't called around yet. Thinking for fruit trees.... be a lot easier to just spread on ground and not worry about getting worked in.... cages and all.

I wouldn't spread urea around fruit trees hoping for rain. I went out with a fertilizer blend this spring for my trees. Tried to find the link to the Midwest Whitetail episode of earlier this year when they talked fertilizer, but came up empty.
 
Dont apply nitrogen to fruit trees after the 1st of July. By doing so you encourage new growth late in the summer that may fail to harden off and then you get more winter die back. If your fruit trees are currently putting on 8-12" of new growth every year then there is no need to apply much if any nitrogen. Excessive vegetative growth on semi dwarf and standard size root stocks only delays fruiting and increases the chance for fire blight to infect shoot tips on FB prone trees.
 
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