I found the cure for mice girdling fruit trees. No need to screen anymore. Just put up an owl house!! 
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Apple/Pear Trees
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LoessHillsArcher
PMA Member
That’s awesome!!!
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Jbohn
Well-Known Member
If a tree was planted and survived the first growing season why would it die the 2nd year , couldn't find where anything chewed it. Just trying see what I did wrong. I planted probably 50 over the last 3-4 years Id say 10-15 of them died. Some look awesome and are doing great. I know root stock could be a issues but I planted 10 from Starks last year 3 of them died I know they are good trees.. They where Arkansas Blacks.. Thanks
That’s the fruit tree mystery that never ever seems to have a real answer or solution. There’s so many things that can happen, generally in the 1st 5 years. Grubs & borers can get in the tree could be one problem- hence why u didn’t notice anythibg. Some systemic insecticides can help there if done right.
Fungus on apple trees is likely the next issue. If there’s a wound that the tree had & some fungus or bacteria got in. Grubs & bugs eating the roots, etc - another reason to look for some systemic herbicides (be careful on type & read label - I could post a few too) so not hurting bees or fruit for consumption.
All the things that get trees sound worse than they are but some mortality is part of it unfortunately. Patching in a few dead trees here & there is kinda to be expected. I’d go with some carefully timed & labeled insecticides & fungicides & really do some research into “how, when, why & safety”.
Fungus on apple trees is likely the next issue. If there’s a wound that the tree had & some fungus or bacteria got in. Grubs & bugs eating the roots, etc - another reason to look for some systemic herbicides (be careful on type & read label - I could post a few too) so not hurting bees or fruit for consumption.
All the things that get trees sound worse than they are but some mortality is part of it unfortunately. Patching in a few dead trees here & there is kinda to be expected. I’d go with some carefully timed & labeled insecticides & fungicides & really do some research into “how, when, why & safety”.
Bro sent me this and I think I missed it a couple years ago. He was asking me about a couple varieties on here & also about adding Arkansas black & tonnage per acre from fruit. I did not know the figures but Erik barber & Eli Cook did article on MW. I read the figures on tonnage per acre. Holy smokes!!! 42,000 lbs per acre when done “properly”. Yes, yes- takes time and care but DANG!!! Once established- will repeat for years where we all know the insane prices to replant crops each year to also “do them right”. Pretty incredible...
http://www.midwestwhitetail.com/fruit-plots-apple-orchards/
http://www.midwestwhitetail.com/fruit-plots-apple-orchards/
The orchard guantlet coming along well.
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That's the fertilizer program I use. Got it from that article a few years ago. The trees go bananas.
2nd year Pear.
2nd year pear.....
2nd year apple
3rd year apple
3rd year apple
4th year apple
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SB3
Active Member
These are my 2nd year apples from Stark Nursery. They're really doing well, I haven't fertilized yet only watered thru the summer. The jonafree is already putting on apples, wondering if I should have plucked those off so the tree grows better instead of producing?
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These are my 2nd year apples from Stark Nursery. They're really doing well, I haven't fertilized yet only watered thru the summer. The jonafree is already putting on apples, wondering if I should have plucked those off so the tree grows better instead of producing?
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I would pluck the apples. Also, lessons learned.... you are going to widen your fence. the limbs will grow into it this year. Other option is to just cut all the limps off and run your scaffold branches above the fence.... in which case you may want to shorten the fence.
LoessHillsArcher
PMA Member
Wow, that's a lot of apples on that little tree! We're getting our first fruit on our three year old trees this year. Only one tree that I've noticed so far, started with 9 apples, down to 4 after winds blew the others off. Focusing on training the limbs and crotch angles yet vs producing fruit. Those small limbs would snap on mine if they tried to support an apple.
SB3
Active Member
Yeah, my plan was your "other option" these are 15 months in the ground so just watering this year then starting pruning lower branches and for a central leader each winter. These are all semi-dwarf so I'm hoping they get 12ft + with lower branches starting at around 5-6ft. I imagine the deer will keep everything below that nipped off. I knew better than leave those on but was really neat seeing apples already! Should make a nice edge right to the blind, this was a open hay field hoping to draw 'em out during daylight more. At around $40/tree planted, the return should be hard to beat.
Anybody got pics of mature apple trees and how the deer affect lower branches?
Anybody got pics of mature apple trees and how the deer affect lower branches?
If u don’t have bees/flowers & only apply to tree... carbaryl, malathion, Bifen XTS are Options. Bifen XTS is my fav if u not gonna eat em & need effective spray. It’s really good on mites. Which r a problem with some other insecticides. One other that’s systemic & good for bunch of stuff is lambda-cyhalothrin (generic triazicide) which gets nasty grubs and evil critters below soil & also kills ton other stuff.
Now.... for the more “organic” minded person or a person willing to spend more time....... drown em out with neem oil or an insecticidal soap. Will need to do it often enough and smother every drop to roast em BUT this is doable & does work & absolutely more environmentally responsible.
Last- I would add a fungicide or 2 of them... now that u have insect pressure- it’s “open wounds” for different fungus or mildew, leaf spotting, etc to get to tree. I see some spotting there on leaves so, imo - I’d add couple fungicides. Happy to list a few and everything above is pretty easy to find. Myclobutinyl, propiconazole, copper, sulfur, Captan r some off top of my head- all this off top of head so my spelling may be off. Read label and do a couple. Not complicated or expensive. Good luck!!!
Now.... for the more “organic” minded person or a person willing to spend more time....... drown em out with neem oil or an insecticidal soap. Will need to do it often enough and smother every drop to roast em BUT this is doable & does work & absolutely more environmentally responsible.
Last- I would add a fungicide or 2 of them... now that u have insect pressure- it’s “open wounds” for different fungus or mildew, leaf spotting, etc to get to tree. I see some spotting there on leaves so, imo - I’d add couple fungicides. Happy to list a few and everything above is pretty easy to find. Myclobutinyl, propiconazole, copper, sulfur, Captan r some off top of my head- all this off top of head so my spelling may be off. Read label and do a couple. Not complicated or expensive. Good luck!!!
Thanks sligh! I seen earlier today on a fb farm swap page that someone had the same problem on their apple trees too. There was numerous comments on buying Sevin that would go on the end of a hose. So I bought that on amazon. If you think I’d be better off with what you mentioned above I’ll go that route. I have maybe 7 trees. I’d say they’re 90 % for the deer but I can’t rule the fact of me going back there to eat 1 or 2. Thanks for your help as always!
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HorseDoctor
PMA Member
My neighbor has a friend that is in Forestry that claims the Japanese beetle damage looks horrible but really doesn't do the trees much harm in the long run. A little hard to believe, but I've pretty much ignored them and can't say that he' wrong either...
goatman
I hunt days ending in Y
I'm a sucker for end of year sales on fruit trees. Always worried about drought conditions so I pot them till fall. This way I can keep them watered. Watering with a hose I noticed wasn't getting down deep. I would put them in my black sled with water once a week and soak. Still worried in the heat of not getting the water in the right time and losing a tree. Worries over. It's easy with drip irrigation and a deep watering. Trees have responded well. 1 gal/hour drips work the best and set for 30 min. I also have some hybrid poplar cuttings in there to see how they like it.
arm
Leg
Planted these 2 apples in my yard 2 falls ago. Idk how old they were. One hasn't grown a lick and acts sick. Didn't flower this year at all. I believe that's rust on the leaves? I leveled a place to put that water bucket recently and noticed around the base of the tree as a little moldy and smelled musty like crazy. Thoughts? This is a honeycrisp.
The other tree is a granny and is doing good. Same rust. It did flower this year and there's one apple on it. I'm gonna eat that fricken apple too.
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The other tree is a granny and is doing good. Same rust. It did flower this year and there's one apple on it. I'm gonna eat that fricken apple too.
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Hardwood11
It is going to be a good fall!
Is there one crab apple that stands out in Iowa?