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Bought a Planter, JD 7000

deep woods goat hunter

deep woods goat hunter

PMA Member
Finally found a JD 7000 4 row planter within reasonable driving distance of home that wasn’t already sold. Took off after work and checked it out. I have zero experience with planters but have a good farmer buddy with a warm shop, experience with JD everything and plenty of time in the winter. He volunteered to go through it with me and make the repairs/replacements to make it purr like a kitten.
Its on 36” rows currently but going to tighten them as close to 30” as we can. Cant wait to get started.
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You just need some no till coulters and you will be ready. I have a jd 7000 4 row 36 in and it's been great. Do your maintenance before putting it in barn each year. It will last many more lifetimes.
 
They are a very simple planter that work great. If it doesn't already have them, I would suggest getting the seed box inserts so that all of the seed in the box gets funneled out.
 
If u not going to harvest the corn- no need for 30’s. I’d cut bean rate in half & go over it twice if u don’t have massive amounts of beans to do.... I’m a far bigger fan of 15” (or 18”) beans vs 30” beans unless u r up in big Ag fields that have premium soil. Medium quality soils- for moisture/canopy & weed suppression- 15” beans will beat out 30” & have less headaches. Kinze bean Meters will be great & toss the JD bean cups. Make sure ur corn units in good shape or get some precision corn units. Row firmers & good closing wheels. Openers, seed tubes, tires - all stuff to check & common sense. Ya, like above, no till &/or some good row cleaners. I redid one with some open depth wheels (just in case I got into mucky soil, which I don’t intend to. ). Think through spares to have on hand too.... extra chains, tension springs, etc. u got guy that can fix the basics- they Simple great units u will enjoy. Grease it religiously & understand the simple mechanics of it and it’ll last u forever
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I plan to add the no till coulters and putting precision meters on it immediately.
My farmer buddy knows all things green so he will be huge help going through it. I picked it up for $2k so figured i could spend some $ to get it running pristine.
Skip, no need to move to 30” even if its pretty simple? I just figired 30” would canopy out quicker and get #s of corn in limited plot areas.
Can ya elaborate? Im curious
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Watched a couple videos on YT that have already been a huge help.


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Another question, if i am going to be spreading fertilizer with buggy and working in my Fertilizer, do i really need the NT coulters?

Note: i have a GP NT drill that i plant beans with so this planter will be for corn only.


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30" corn VS 36"..... if you can do it easily, sure, go for it. splitting hairs to be honest.... The issues that COULD go back & fourth... I won't even open that can of worms.... It's silly-business nerd stuff. Either is absolutely fine & you will notice no difference. That's the bottom line. Either way. I have a 30" AG planter & a spare 36" plot planter. I won't be moving the 36" to 30" simply because it's such a micro-silly argument that when it comes to plots, it's last thing a guy needs worry about. But yes, if you "like it" or "want it" for whatever reason & it's easy, all good.

*Run treated urea & plant corn NT until last year's soybeans and you will have better: moisture holding, plant like butter, less weeds, etc. Tillage' main benefit is blackening of soil for heat, break up of residue (on previous bean ground, non-issue pretty much as there's not a residue problem), etc but there's major down sides as well, especially on erodible soil. Row cleaners can take care of some of these things as well, but if into old bean ground, easy as pie no till.
 
Sligh1 said:
*Run treated urea & plant corn NT until last year's soybeans and you will have better: moisture holding, plant like butter, less weeds, etc. Tillage' main benefit is blackening of soil for heat, break up of residue (on previous bean ground, non-issue pretty much as there's not a residue problem), etc but there's major down sides as well, especially on erodible soil. Row cleaners can take care of some of these things as well, but if into old bean ground, easy as pie no till.
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Im with ya on the 30” row deal, guess ive just had a buddy of mine tell me he wont buy a 4 row unless its 30 influence me. He wants a 30” thats field ready and those are a premium $
Im with ya on the ease of no till and moisture but the urea for N i am bot familiar with. Isnt there a special box that i need? I jsutyhave insecticide boxes and mounts for liquid N. I think anyway.
What do i need? Idk jack about adjusting rate for said box either.




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He wants a 30” because he would consider it the “current industry standard” & that’s what most combine Ag heads are set up for. NOT because it factually yields more. Yields would likely be the best with 20” rows with fungicide flown over it if u really wanted to split hairs.
No- do NOT mess with fertilizer boxes on planters. Pain in the butt. I think I have some extras- u can have for FREE! ;). Liquid tanks- again- don’t mess with it. For plots..... so much simpler & less hassle (N corrodes!!) to call coop “I’d like to order a fertilizer cart for pick up. I’d like treated urea please & please have it come out to approx 175-80-80 per acre ROUGHLY”. Pick it up- make sure set right- spread and done!!! Bring them back that stupid corroding cart they can maintain after they bill u a $10 usage fee. ;). Easy!!
 
Sligh1 said:
No- do NOT mess with fertilizer boxes on planters. Pain in the butt. I think I have some extras- u can have for FREE! ;). Liquid tanks- again- don’t mess with it. For plots..... so much simpler & less hassle (N corrodes!!) to call coop “I’d like to order a fertilizer cart for pick up. I’d like treated urea please & please have it come out to approx 175-80-80 per acre ROUGHLY”. Pick it up- make sure set right- spread and done!!! Bring them back that stupid corroding cart they can maintain after they bill u a $10 usage fee. ;). Easy!!
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10-4 thats how i have spread fertilizer most often in the past, just never/no experience with treated urea. Im guessing the advantage over treated urea vs straight N is loss due to volatilization?
Ive always disced/worked in my in my N fertilizers for that reason.



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Same urea- they just run a coating over top of it so it doesn’t evaporate. Bingo. Exactly right. Plots always gonna want treated urea while most ag operations run anhydrous which is not practical for plots or desireable if u want best ecological balance in soil (anhydrous nukes everything from earth worms to most beneficial living organisms). Minor but bottom line- treated urea..... available anywhere, cost effective & easy.
 
If planting beans......Shoup SH6050 brush meter with SH15794 plates. $500 upgrade, but way more accurate. I went a few years with the original bean cups on my JD7100 planter as I didn't know any better.

I think I remember you have a drill so maybe you have no intention of ever planting beans with it.
 
IowaBowHunter1983 said:
If planting beans......Shoup SH6050 brush meter with SH15794 plates. $500 upgrade, but way more accurate. I went a few years with the original bean cups on my JD7100 planter as I didn't know any better.

I think I remember you have a drill so maybe you have no intention of ever planting beans with it.
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I picked up a 7000 this fall, pretty pristine condition with no-till coulters. I talked a few real farmer friends who used to use them in the past and they said the cups would work for deer....the more reading I did I settled with the cups for this spring and see how it goes. It seems like I will get a controlled spill vs metering. I might save some money on seed if I went with meters but I have not dialed in my plots to know what works and doesn't work yet. I will probably plant more seed but I have struggled badly with getting my beans to canopy with the drought the last two years so I am ok with going thick. The last two years I tilled and then broadcasted. This year I also plan on planting at 36" rows and then running the planter over it again at a 45 degree angle to double up the planting. For corn I will keep the 36".
 
lv2hntnfsh said:
I picked up a 7000 this fall, pretty pristine condition with no-till coulters. I talked a few real farmer friends who used to use them in the past and they said the cups would work for deer....the more reading I did I settled with the cups for this spring and see how it goes. It seems like I will get a controlled spill vs metering. I might save some money on seed if I went with meters but I have not dialed in my plots to know what works and doesn't work yet. I will probably plant more seed but I have struggled badly with getting my beans to canopy with the drought the last two years so I am ok with going thick. The last two years I tilled and then broadcasted. This year I also plan on planting at 36" rows and then running the planter over it again at a 45 degree angle to double up the planting. For corn I will keep the 36".
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yup you are right.... cups=spill out. Why a 45 degree angle? why not plant between the rows so you have consistent 18" spacing?
 
I really just did not want to try to keep the 18" rows dialed in the whole length of the plot, I figured I would get a better, more even pattern going 45s.

I also saw someone posted yearly fall maintenance and greasing, just curious on what everyone is doing so when I go through it this spring I can make sure to hit all of the main points.
 
IowaBowHunter1983 said:
If planting beans......Shoup SH6050 brush meter with SH15794 plates. $500 upgrade, but way more accurate. I went a few years with the original bean cups on my JD7100 planter as I didn't know any better.

I think I remember you have a drill so maybe you have no intention of ever planting beans with it.
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Ya, this will be for corn & sunflowers. I will drill beans with Great Plains 606 NT.
 
I got the planter over to my buddies Wednesday after work. He and his dad- Ron, went through it with me.
Ron planted with JD 7000s for over 30 years and still has an 8 row he bought new in 1972. He said that its going to be a really nice planter. Attached is the list of parts that it needs. He said that the firmers weren't necessary, but would be nice to have. As for the no-till coulters I have decided against no till for now. I will only be planting 6-8 acres (only corn) the first few years and that will be an upgrade I can make down the road.
Total Cost $3,260
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