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Broadhead flight at longer distances

Talonted

Talonted

Member
I'm wondering how many of you folks try to tune your broadheads out to 50-60 yards?

I'm having a terrible time at long distances and can't seem to find anything that will tune perfectly. I've been shooting the rage practice head as it has given the best results so far. I've had decent results with Shuttle T locks as well up to 40 yards.

I've also tried some American broad heads, and Muzzy 3 blades, both of which missed a 2x2 target at 40 yards :confused:

The bow is tuned well, shooting 28" FMJ's at 65lbs, ~278fps. Paper tune looks pefect.

I can put field points on and be as accurate as the shooter is capable of, but broadheads are just throwing me for a loop, litterally....

I don't intend on shooting past 30 yards this season, but would love to be able to reach out a little farther.
 
PY bucks +1

Paper tuning is just a start. Broadhead tuning is where the money is. I do at 20/40/60 yards and the rest movement is key. ALWAYS ALWAYS chase your fieldpoints as the BH will move faster than the FP with each subtle move..

Lets say your BH hit 5" low at 40 yards. Move your rest UP or nock point DOWN maybe 1/16th inch at a time until the FP and BH start to hit the same point of impact (POI).
FORGET where they hit..just that they eventually move together. IF BH are right of FP...move rest left a bit until again..they hit same spot even if 5 feet off! Then you can re-sight.

Once you do that..then re-sight your bow and your done.

I start with paper then bare shaft tune and can usually shot a 4" group with a bare shaft at 20 yards when I'm done. Still.....I MUST BH tune and once you do that..don't paper tune again as you may see a tear despite BH and FP hitting the same. Thats why we do it so leave it. Then you can shoot muzzys, slick tricks, swickeys or...RAGE at same POI! Hope that helps.

One more thing...check your nock pinch by taking off field point and drawing..if it comes up you are too tight. Also roll the string and if it can move inside the throat your ok..if the arrow goes with the twist...too tight. You will pull your hair out but once you get it you will feel like you can tune any bow and are more confident in your shooting!
 
Great info hutyak. Never had it explained completely like that before. Usually have guys with suppossed knowledge just say tune your bow to the BH dummie.
Thanks
 
Thanks hutyak.....I have never had my BH and FPs shoot the same even though I was perfectly paper tuned. I always just adjusted my sights for BH to hunt with. I can't wait to try that out. Thanks for the info!
 
Thanks for the replies, links, and all other information. Right now I can put my rage practice heads on top of my FP's from 40 yards shot after shot. I can put a 3 blade muzzy on and miss the target low to the right, over 15" off...

Just poor broadheads for my set up, they spin perfectly on the arrow and are matched up with my 3" fuzion fletching, any thoughts??

My Shuttle T's fly really close to the rages, but not as accurate shot for shot.

Not that I'm going to be shooting anything but the Rage's, but I just don't understand why some "fly like field point" broadheads won't work for me???
 
I dont think that any broadhead is bad for a set up. you need to tune your rest like stated before. But shoot what you are confedent in.
 
They will but your not " BH tuned." Start by moving your rest up and left maybe 1/16" to start and you will see that the FP are now missing up and left BUT...the broadheads are grouping closer to them. Obviously aim at the same spot and forget where they go in relation to the target for now.

If they spin correct, which is hard to check without a spinner, that will work. Also, not sure of your rest but spray foot powder on your fletching and IF ANY is missing after the shot you have contact. That will kill BH flight.

Your problem is very common and the penetration you will get when properly tuned will increase as more energy is transfered staright ahead versus side to side etc.

Many shoot mechanicals because they shoot 'better' but that is because they have no rudder like a BH. Thats why if you can shoot a bare shaft straight ahead you are doing great as everything MUST stay in line...there is no rudder.

Make sure your spine is adequate also as being underspined, not so much overspined, can make tuning miserable.

Alot but I promise you i was more lost than you but after trying and trying I got it and you will too! You will never have to go into a pro shop and take back a "tuned' bow. You can always check it yourself :)
 
The underspined comment is something I'm highly concerned about. I'm shooting a Mathews Reezen at 27.5" at 66lbs. My arrows are 28" and 10.3gpi with the 400 spine. According to Easton's chart I'm suppose to be shooting 400, but have always wondered. All the pro shops I have been to just use the charts.

I've never shot anything in the 340 range but I'm thinking about trying some. Thanks again for all the info.

I'm going to try shooting some of the fixed blades again and start from scratch. Will keep you updated...
 
Talonted. I shoot a Z7 at 26.5"/125 grain head and 70# with a 27" arrow and need a 340 to get good flight. With your specs your way underspined and it is VERY difficult to get blades flying well in that case. Even with a 100 grain tip to increase spine, it will be too weak. Hope that helps. Try the 340, great shaft, but need a bit stiffer spine IMO.
 
Talonted said:
I'm wondering how many of you folks try to tune your broadheads out to 50-60 yards?

I'm having a terrible time at long distances and can't seem to find anything that will tune perfectly. I've been shooting the rage practice head as it has given the best results so far. I've had decent results with Shuttle T locks as well up to 40 yards.

I've also tried some American broad heads, and Muzzy 3 blades, both of which missed a 2x2 target at 40 yards :confused:

The bow is tuned well, shooting 28" FMJ's at 65lbs, ~278fps. Paper tune looks pefect.

I can put field points on and be as accurate as the shooter is capable of, but broadheads are just throwing me for a loop, litterally....

I don't intend on shooting past 30 yards this season, but would love to be able to reach out a little farther.
Click to expand...

Just out of curiosity, how large of vanes are you using, and do they have any twist on them?
 
DE2IA said:
Thanks hutyak.....I have never had my BH and FPs shoot the same even though I was perfectly paper tuned. I always just adjusted my sights for BH to hunt with. I can't wait to try that out. Thanks for the info!
Click to expand...

This was me up until last winter. I was always shooting great with field points and had to make massive adjustments just before season opened up down here. Being the rookie I was, I just assumed that was the price of doing business with my Muzzy 3-blades (100 gr). I was talking to my bow shop guy one day right before the season opened and he explained to me what was wrong and it was just as Huntyak said. I waited until after the season was over and took my bow in to get tuned. The guy that originally set my bow up had my knock point off and the sight not mounted altogether correctly. After that, my BHs and FPs hit dead-on same point of contact. And I'm shooting 340 Easton Axis arrows with a 65# Mathews FX at 29.5". Definitely listen to what Huntyak is saying. It'll make all the difference. Good luck.

Fortunately for me, all the overtime I'm earning down here working on the oil spill is going to help me finally upgrade from my 7-year old FX (still in great shape, though) and I'll get to do it all over again! :way:
 
Critter-I'm using the new Fusion 3" vanes and the shop put them on with no helical to them. I specifically asked two shops that I was considering purchasing arrows from 2 weeks ago about my spine and the both said 400 over the 340, even though I was pushing for the 340 as I'd read to always go a over when your on the edge of the charts. The shop said to use the 3" vanes if I was worried about BH flight, and I am of course so I went with them.

I'm going to continue to try and tune these fixed blades with my new 400 spine FMJ's. Hopefully this weekend, thanks again for all the great advice!!

Anyone else get the idea they should just buy and build there arrows themselves, seems like it would save a lot of grief...
 
"Anyone else get the idea they should just buy and build there arrows themselves, seems like it would save a lot of grief... "

Absolutely Talonted. I had all 12 fall off within 30 minutes of me shooting them and after that I said, "Even I can get them to fall off so I started doing my own and the EZ is amazing..even I can do it!

Buy the Arizona EZ fletcher mini. Puts on three fletching at a time at about 4 degrees right helical. VERY VERY easy to fletch and you are absolutely correct in that the more helical, to a point, the more spin you will create, hence better stabilization. The problem with the mini is it only takes up to 2.1" vanes and I really like the fusions but use the 2.1".

Good luck this weekend!
 
Talonted said:
Critter-I'm using the new Fusion 3" vanes and the shop put them on with no helical to them. I specifically asked two shops that I was considering purchasing arrows from 2 weeks ago about my spine and the both said 400 over the 340, even though I was pushing for the 340 as I'd read to always go a over when your on the edge of the charts. The shop said to use the 3" vanes if I was worried about BH flight, and I am of course so I went with them.

I'm going to continue to try and tune these fixed blades with my new 400 spine FMJ's. Hopefully this weekend, thanks again for all the great advice!!

Anyone else get the idea they should just buy and build there arrows themselves, seems like it would save a lot of grief...
Click to expand...

While a helical vane may slow your arrow slightly, I believe the accuracy achieved from them outweighs the speed issue. Shoot both types from your bow from fifty yards one after the other and focus on nock of the arrow as it's flying through the air.......I'll bet you'll notice a difference. As far as building your own arrows, I'd recommend it. If you shoot enough and don't have the ability to refletch your own arrows you'll be making continued trips to the shop. I buy bare shafts and fletch my own with a Bitzenburger jig, 2" blazers, and some fletch-tite glue. As long as you make sure the shafts are cleaned with alcohol first and glue them properly they won't come off. Use a wrap on your shaft first and you'll need a truck to pull them off when they need changed. :way:
 
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