Both. Depends on what the goals are. I have a big multi year EQIP project that starts this spring. The first step is a prescribed fire to set back multaflora rose. Fire does a great job of setting back rose and makes it much easer to spray. Step 2 is brush management. Step 3 is crop tree release (TSI).
If you don't have a target species, you can certainly do a fire after TSI work. Here are a couple videos of that with explanations of the goals.
This is using fire to manage cedars
Lastly, using fire in a cedar wasteland
If you don't have a target species, you can certainly do a fire after TSI work. Here are a couple videos of that with explanations of the goals.
This is using fire to manage cedars
Lastly, using fire in a cedar wasteland
Daver
PMA Member
I have done a timber burn probably three or four times over the years. I really would like to do more, but alas, time and time again, it seems like something gets in the way of doing so. This year, this year. 
In times past I used a riding lawn mower to make fire breaks and it worked well. A pass one in a direction blowing the leaves one way and then a pass back blowing the leaves the other way gives you 3 or 4 feet of pretty bare dirt, which is all you need for a good fire break in the timber. Then...go through the area to be burned with a leaf blower and make sure that your really good trees, deadfalls and brushpiles that you do not want to burn have a little clearance around them and a timber burn is pretty easy to prepare for.
The only issue I have ever had in the timber is a standing dead tree getting a fire at the base that then "chimneys" up through a hollow channel to the top of the tree. That will burn a LONG TIME and get way hotter than the rest of the leaf litter burning. So I either drop dead trees to be burned OR usually just blow the leaves away from the base so it doesn't catch.
In times past I used a riding lawn mower to make fire breaks and it worked well. A pass one in a direction blowing the leaves one way and then a pass back blowing the leaves the other way gives you 3 or 4 feet of pretty bare dirt, which is all you need for a good fire break in the timber. Then...go through the area to be burned with a leaf blower and make sure that your really good trees, deadfalls and brushpiles that you do not want to burn have a little clearance around them and a timber burn is pretty easy to prepare for.
The only issue I have ever had in the timber is a standing dead tree getting a fire at the base that then "chimneys" up through a hollow channel to the top of the tree. That will burn a LONG TIME and get way hotter than the rest of the leaf litter burning. So I either drop dead trees to be burned OR usually just blow the leaves away from the base so it doesn't catch.
hesseu
Well-Known Member
Timber burns are typically recommended every 3-5 years. Also, if you are just burning without any TSI work then this may actually be counterproductive. Sunlight to the forest floor is key.
This particular farm has about 50 acres of timber that I had lightly logged 3 years ago. Cut about 90 white oaks out of it and 10 really nice walnuts. I figured that this would help open up the canopy and promote undergrowth. However, many areas still have the park feel being really wide open. My goals are to release the good marketable trees as well as creating a thicker environment for deer. I am assuming I should start with some aggressive TSI work then burn in future years. Thought from others who have done similar?
hesseu
Well-Known Member
So...at 50 acres and 100 trees, that is only 2 tree's per acre. Not much change. Now, I am assuming that it wasn't all spread out evenly like this...but you get the drift. Yes, you will need a more aggressive TSI if you are seeking wildlife benefit. 25-50% open canopy.
A good wildlife forester and biologist will help out tremendously as they would see it for what it is and give recommendations.
Daver
PMA Member
I am preparing now for my first ever timber cutting...and it will be very selective and only a portion of my timber. My main goal is to get sunlight to the floor and reduce the "park like" setting in some areas. I am marking specific trees for the logger to cut and am going heavy on hickories with enough oaks to make it worthwhile for him and also thin where I have oaks crowding each other.
I have previously done TSI in portions of my timber and I need to complete that in the rest of the timber AND go back in some areas and hit it harder. Once the logging operation is complete I will follow that and whack all of the ironwoods, etc, and then keep an eye on things...because I may need to do a second round as I am admittedly a scaredy cat about taking too many oaks at once.
I am not taking any walnuts at this time as they are not selling at top prices relative to other times. We'll get those another time...like when my grandson needs college money.
aimfirst2
New Member
would love to do more burning, but my time and timing with weather gets in the way. been searching for years for people that do burn in my area (land near Keosauqua/Bonaparte) but haven't found anyone steady that does it. I have done them myself when my oldest son was around and we could do it, but he has moved to I am hesitant to burn without help. wish I could find someone in the area even to help chase the fire with an atv/water tank since its tough to keep an eye on all of the edges at least in my bigger prairie field...if I can get that field burnt, the timber is relatively easy. hoping timing works out for me this spring with perfect wind and I may do it myself
Tmayer13
Well-Known Member
@IowaBowHunter1983 does controlled burns quite frequently. He may be over that way doing another job that could correspond with yours. Shoot him a message.