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Drilling the DBLTREE mix...?

S

stevep

Member
Hey guys, a few questions about drilling / no till. (I've got no experience with it...). I found a guy who's going to no till my plots this year. I want to do brassicas in one field, and the DBLTREE mix in the other. Can both of these be drilled easily?

I'm guessing turnips, kale, radishes can be done all in one pass? How do you deal with the different sizes of the seeds in the DBLTREE mix?

Thanks!

Steve
 
Very good ?
Drilling brassicas- obviously different timing. July 15- August 5 or so. While drilling, I'll assume 7.5" rows. 1/8-1/4" deep or so. I'd go lighter due to row planting. On a broadcast mix I may do around 3-4 lbs purp top turnips, 5 lbs radish. If I'm drilling, I'd bump down to 2-3 lbs ppt & 3-4 radish or even lower & I'd be very careful not to seed too heavy and I'd make sure u have plenty of N for brassicas. More so when drilling & if no til u need to spread before rain (24 hrs) or I'd prefer treating urea at coop for slower release & so doesn't evaporate.

The second one. U have the "right answer" and the "compromise". I'm gonna leave out compromise of "mid depth" because it might turn out like crap so I'm gonna tell u my opinion of "right way" no til. Oats, peas, rye, or big grain- .5" minimum, I do 3/4". Clover, radish, etc - 1/8-1/4" or so. So- the "right answer" is 2 passes. Ok- compromise - 1/3" maybe for example & one pass. I'd suggest taking time to do right though. Aug 22-sept 5 for example on timeframe.
Both need plenty N. Plenty p&k & proper ph. Brassicas will need clethodim & crop oil 2-3 weeks after germ if grass in it. (I spray same time I plant rye mix). Make sure both plots start of "fried" for weeds. Hope that covers it. Check ur furrows on depth every so often. Good luck!!
 
Thanks a ton. Really appreciate all of the info you guys have to share. I know my "plotting" success is most 99% your guys knowledge.
 
If your plot site is rough, be cautious. Our no-till drills tend to put seed out about 15-25% heavier than calibrated if it's bouncing a lot, which is often the case when no-till drilling into killed sod. Old Truax's is what we have. Heavier seed (prairie forbs, grains, etc.) moreso than the light, fluffy stuff (grass heavy native mixes).
 
Depending on the model of the drill one thing that helps a lot is to remove the seed tubes from the small seed box. I temporally re attach ahead of the press wheel with a zip tie.this allows the seed in the main box to be at correct depth and the clover pressed in. This is on a Great Plains drill. Also setting the rate when putting that much seed is tricky.
 
hans1 said:
I temporally re attach ahead of the press wheel with a zip tie.
Click to expand...

I understand drills, run JD & GP drills & I've taken seed tubes off of small seed or let them dangle down so seed falls on ground - I get all that. Can you explain better what you mean by above? I don't quite understand what you're saying and if you've got a good way of seeding I have not tried, I'm interested, just want to better understand what you're saying. thx
(what's temporary, during what and where are these attached? I see press wheels which are quite far off on my drills from the boxes so trying to visualize or understand what you mean).
 
On my drill the small seed tubes drop the seed right above the double disc openers. When I remove the lower end and reattach to the bracket that hold the press wheel or pack wheel. This puts the seed on top of the furrow. I have had good luck on many types of small seed this way. Hope this is a better explanation.
 
hans1 said:
On my drill the small seed tubes drop the seed right above the double disc openers. When I remove the lower end and reattach to the bracket that hold the press wheel or pack wheel. This puts the seed on top of the furrow. I have had good luck on many types of small seed this way. Hope this is a better explanation.
Click to expand...

I have a new Greatplains 606NT drill that I will be seeding for the first time with here in a couple weeks. I have 3 boxes on it. one for regular seed and one for small seed and then one for native grass seed. I believe my small seed box tube drops right in front of my press wheel now.
Can I use this drill effectively to plant turnips and radishes??
Can I also plant Rye and clover in August with just making one pass with this drill or do you recommend two passes with the different seeds planted separately?

Thanks for the help!!
 
Your drill will work fine for turnips. In a dry year "not this one" I have seen better germation on bare ground without any tillage. The hard part with this is a complete kill is needed. Also challenging to get enough N without incorporating it. Will do the oats clover in one pass easy.
 
I like buddy on here's method for brassicas. (Turnips And radish r different size seed, turnip much smaller so I put less lbs of turnip per acre) I do total in drill now (less in drill) of maybe 2, maybe 3 lbs acre and go over twice. So 4-6 lbs per acre when drilled. I'll pry broadcast more though & bump up to around 8 lbs.
for mix- I go with dbltree rates- maybe a bit less and i do tweak what I plant some or adjust based on dates. For example, if I'm on the early end of mix- I'll do more clover, peas & maybe radish & slightly less oats & rye. But- dbltree rates r right on here. Some think they r a bit high- ok, maybe but Paul's plots have looked astounding everytime I've seen them. U really cannot over-do clover or peas. Just becomes a cost issue. U can over do brassicas really easily. Rye & oats combined- I mean, total - if u r in the 75 up to 200 lbs mark per acre - ur gonna have a nice stand. I know that's a broad figure. I've done as low as 75 with rye and oats total and as much as 200 and done fine. I've upped my legume rate & lowered rye/oats too and just fine. Thankfully the mix is "somewhat hard to overseed", somewhat. Brassicas on the other hand need careful seed rate. I'd rather under seed brassicas than overseed em. Probably the opposite with the dbltree mix.
 
rackhunter said:
I have a new Greatplains 606NT drill that I will be seeding for the first time with here in a couple weeks. I have 3 boxes on it. one for regular seed and one for small seed and then one for native grass seed. I believe my small seed box tube drops right in front of my press wheel now.
Can I use this drill effectively to plant turnips and radishes??
Can I also plant Rye and clover in August with just making one pass with this drill or do you recommend two passes with the different seeds planted separately?

Thanks for the help!!
Click to expand...

The GP will do what you want. You won't use the native seed box for this. I put oats/rye in the large seed box. Put your clover in the small seed box. It's best to calibrate, but the settings in the book are real close on mine. I'd give you my settings but my journal is in my drill, 5 hours away.
 
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