Fescue Takeover

[SB3]

I have some old NWSG fields that have been overrun with fescue and only patches of big/little bluestem and switchgrass remain. Can I spray these with gly early spring after the fescue starts growing and while the natives are still dormant? Or would a different chemical work better? Or try something completely different?

 

[Booner]

I have some old NWSG fields that have been overrun with fescue and only patches of big/little bluestem and switchgrass remain. Can I spray these with gly early spring after the fescue starts growing and while the natives are still dormant? Or would a different chemical work better? Or try something completely different?

Burn it in the first part of April. This will kill your young plants, large clumps that have been established you can spot shoot with 2 qt of a Glysphate, 2-3 lbs of AMS and 10 lbs or less of H20 once cool season grasses have established roughly 4-6" tall. Blue stem and Switch regrowth all depends on how much competition there is for available light/nutrients. Just like anything else, you get rid of those weeds you will see natives start to take back off.

 

[SB3]

I'm not sure it'll burn that well it was cut for hay last year, maybe not enough fuel. So burning first doesn't allow the chemical to touch the young natives but they'll grow back where spraying first would kill down to root?

 

[LoessHillsArcher]

Spraying with gly in the spring is a so-so solution and temporary at best. If it were me (and not that this is the best/right thing to do). I'd spray early in April with a dose of Gly and OustXP. Oust will smoke those cool season grasses and let your native grasses go. Note though that Oust is hard on "weeds" and some native flowers and such. So if you are concerned about those being killed then Oust is not the way to go.

 

[arm]

Following this thread. Can anyone get and use Oust? Is Pendulum a comparable to Oust?

 

[SB3]

Spraying with gly in the spring is a so-so solution and temporary at best. If it were me (and not that this is the best/right thing to do). I'd spray early in April with a dose of Gly and OustXP. Oust will smoke those cool season grasses and let your native grasses go. Note though that Oust is hard on "weeds" and some native flowers and such. So if you are concerned about those being killed then Oust is not the way to go.

My main goal is to get rid of the fescue, and let the natives take control. I know the natives are there but being suppressed. If i must sacrifice some native flowers or weeds now I think I'll be better off in the long run. I think once I can get the natives up and thriving they'll suppress the fescue. Then I can maintain through burning. Is Oust XP a RUP? Thanks!

 

[SB3]

Following this thread. Can anyone get and use Oust? Is Pendulum a comparable to Oust?

Found this in Dbltree's corner under herbicides... I'm gonna spray this & gly shortly after green up

"Oust is no longer a RUP in Iowa and is one of the premier herbicides for controlling weeds in tree plantings. Jef Hodges of TRM will sell it in small quantities of 2 or more ounces. Email: bobwhite@iland.net

I have also found this herbicide to be safe and effective for switchgrass and big blustem as well."

Oust

 

[Booner]

Spraying with gly in the spring is a so-so solution and temporary at best. If it were me (and not that this is the best/right thing to do). I'd spray early in April with a dose of Gly and OustXP. Oust will smoke those cool season grasses and let your native grasses go. Note though that Oust is hard on "weeds" and some native flowers and such. So if you are concerned about those being killed then Oust is not the way to go.

Very true and also a good choice, however he was looking to keep what native stand he had and deal with the fescue. The majority of why people are unable to attack Fescue and control is isn't lack of killing power due to a product but more so lack of contact with what they are trying to kill. A 2qt rate of gly with an adjuvant like AMS will allow for good contact mixture among the solution. Also another key concern is "watering" down the mixture; run it hot and stay below that 10 gallons/acre and you'll be fine.

 

[SB3]

Very true and also a good choice, however he was looking to keep what native stand he had and deal with the fescue. The majority of why people are unable to attack Fescue and control is isn't lack of killing power due to a product but more so lack of contact with what they are trying to kill. A 2qt rate of gly with an adjuvant like AMS will allow for good contact mixture among the solution. Also another key concern is "watering" down the mixture; run it hot and stay below that 10 gallons/acre and you'll be fine.

Booner, You mentioned burning beforehand then spraying the regrowth, not sure I'm gonna be able to do that this spring. Can I skip that step and just spray? I could brush hog if necessary

 

[Booner]

Booner, You mentioned burning beforehand then spraying the regrowth, not sure I'm gonna be able to do that this spring. Can I skip that step and just spray? I could brush hog if necessary

If it was me I would hold off on mowing, and spot shoot the large area's of Fescue if possible. The issue with mowing is your going to have to rake/bale the residue left from mowing; if not then that will get in your way when trying to penetrate down to the invasive Fescue when spraying and your effectiveness will decline. Your cool season grasses will typically begin growth on a normal year 25-30 days ahead of your warm season (variables that will affect the # of days but on average you have a month window) so you'll have some time to spray and check to see if plants are dying.

How big are these area's? Fairy large? You said it was mowed and baled this past yr, is that an option again this year again or has the fescue eliminated the forage value of your grasses?

 

[LoessHillsArcher]

With rains the Oust will work its way into the soil and do its damage to the fescue. I think you'll like how it controls cool season grasses in native grass stands.

 

[DannyBoy]

I'd concentrate on the fall. Fescue stays green (and active) well into fall, after a few frosts have killed off warm season vegetation. You could potentially hurt Asters if they are in the seeding but you'll get a much better kill. I'd bale it mid-September or so, and aim to spray in October, paying special attention to warm-season dormancy. I nuked some fescue/red clover early November last year, on a warm day.

Burn and spray again in the spring, if necessary, and it's gone.

 

[SB3]

Here's my test field it's about 5 acres. I've got nothing to loose by making mistakes so I think I'm going to spray it this spring between fescue green up and natives starting. Deer use this field but mostly at night, I'm hoping the natives will give them the cover to make em feel more safe instead of being so open.

A combination of Booner and LH Archer's suggestions; (How much OustXP/acre?)

OustXP, 2 qt of a Glysphate, 2-3 lbs of AMS and 10 lbs or less of H20 once cool season grasses have established roughly 4-6" tall

Thanks! I'll post results

 

[LoessHillsArcher]

I'd concentrate on the fall. Fescue stays green (and active) well into fall, after a few frosts have killed off warm season vegetation. You could potentially hurt Asters if they are in the seeding but you'll get a much better kill. I'd bale it mid-September or so, and aim to spray in October, paying special attention to warm-season dormancy. I nuked some fescue/red clover early November last year, on a warm day.

Burn and spray again in the spring, if necessary, and it's gone.

Yes, definitely if you are worried about hurting asters and other flowers/forbs/etc. Then fall spraying is the way to go. Good point Danny. We generally only apply in the spring for 2 reasons: 1) the fall gets way too busy with harvest and hunting & 2) we figure we have to make an attempt to kill the cool season grasses just so the native grasses and forbs have a chance. If that means we have to reseed some forbs and native flowers later then so be it. It's kinda a give and take deal.