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Growing verneer quality walnuts

LoessHillsArcher

LoessHillsArcher

PMA Member
Growing veneer quality walnuts

What are some tips you guys and gals might have for growing veneer quality walnuts from bare root seedlings?

We've planting a few in close rows and used tree tubes on them. But the tree tubes are leaving some nasty scars/twists on them right at the top of the tube. Not sure if the tree will grow out of this defect or not?

I was curious what are some tricks to keeping those trees growing nice and straight. Do you prune lower limbs to keep a nice long, clean trunk?

Do you plant seedlings in semi-open timber so they have to fight and go straight up for sunlight? Do you plant cedars/pines as trainer trees amongst seedlings?
 
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Walnut

Good question, I have planted quite a few by seed and then protecting the survivors?? Fencing or like tomato cages. I know some guys that have planted them in rows with tree mat and had good growth, but in each case it is in areas where deer are not a problem.

I would like to hear some suggestions as well...

There is a 14 acre walnut planting in MN, that is maybe 20 years old and they are projecting that it will be worth major $$$ in 20-30 years, trees are really growing nice, but they have pampered them etc...
 
These black walnuts (pics from this past summer) were on their 3rd growing season and this one has always been a step ahead of the rest, was a solid 9ft tall
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Here is the scar I was talking about. Not sure how it is going to look in 10 years or if it will even be noticeable?
104_2270.jpg
 
I'm thinking you need to stabilize those trees with some string and stakes to keep from whipping around against the protectors and it may keep them from twisting also. I also would think that new bark will eventually grow around that area kind of like it does around a knot.
 
LoessHillsArcher said:
Ya... doing that for few 100 trees would really suck... but that might be the way to go.
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Yea it would.. but, if it makes the difference in getting a couple hundred dollars for a "normal" log and getting 2 or 3 grand for a big veneer, it would definately be worth it in the long run.
 
Isn't better part of 75-100 years before a walnut would be ready for logging (20"+ dia.) from a seedling?
 
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Not sure exactly, but you're probably right. I would think when starting them from seedlings those first few years are important to get them started without defects. Once you had a tree growing that had a straight trunk, no lower limbs, and good growing conditions you wouldn't have to take care of it as much. Just let it fatten up.
 
walnut

Highmark said:
Isn't better part of 75-100 years before a walnut would be ready for logging (20"+ dia.) from a seedling?
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It all depends on how they are treated/manicured etc...

Wild trees that are never touched, might take 60+ years, a plantation or tree farm (might be less)...you can google information on select acreages that were planted to walnut and cherry trees and they are grown for harvest.
 
I'd recommend mixing in direct seeding into your strategy. It is pretty darn easy to grow walnut from seed, and if your goals are just to grow for high quality wood (veneer), I'd definitely try it out.

If done correctly, direct seedings only need weed control for 2-3 years (vs. much longer for bare-root plantings), and is done via herbicide instead of herbicide and mowing. They don't need to be tubed, and deer damage is all but eliminated as a limiting factor for success (thousands of stems/acre).

Once the canopy closes in the seeding, you get tree-tree competition, and that is the best way to ensure the highest quality trees survive. Better genetics are able to show dominance, trees grow more uniform and prune quickly. Maintenance is in the form of light thinning periodically, but that is basically it..... sit back and watch them grow.

Just a suggestion :)
 
If you can get trees with the genetics to keep the central leader, that is a great option too. Some walnuts require far more work and need competition to grow straight.

This one does not :D

Found it on my uncles cattle farm and its is straight as can be and gets all afternoon sun. Only has trees to the east of it...I think its a keeper and I collect walnuts off it yearly. It has had no type of work done to it from the start.

KennySmallBlackWalnut.jpg


I am guessing this is the parent tree, about 75 yards from it and the only walnut around that I could find...good form to this tree as well so it looks like they have the genetics to be a possible veneer log.

KennyLargeBlackWalnut.jpg
 
Found this one on my place, growing in the open, but keeps the central leader all the way up. Those are the ones I look for to get a veneer log from and collect seeds from. Most all the rest on my place do not keep the central leader so high.

VeneerQualityBlackWalnut.jpg
 
I do the same with black cherry, found this one growing in the wide open and had to look over a pile to find one with a central leader that was straight, growing out in the open.

Again, most start to get multiple branches and lose the central leader pretty fast....not this guy.

TSIPics.jpg
 
we have planted walnut from seed for approx. 25yrs, planting from seed makes it cost effective to plant close together so the trees grow straight. I didnt prune much till the trees got to approx 3" dia and then thinned out the less desirable ones and started pruning lower branches. Late spring frost damage seems to be the biggest problem here in Wi. buds freeze and then you get a walnut bush, you can prune to a leader and try again but it can be time consuming depending how many. we didnt have good luck with tree shelters, no positive advantages and turned out to be mouse shelters with the mice feeding on the bark of the trees, What I have learned is plant close together, let grow, have patience, then thin and prune. Im on my second thinning, trees approx 7-10" dia. We pick the seed up in the fall before frost and bury in a cardboard box in the garden, in the spring dig up the box, nuts[ its a mess, your hands will be walnut stained] throw the nuts in a pail of water, throw away the floaters plant the sinkers 3' deep and you will have as close to 100% germination as possible. I have learned alot from this site and hope this information is useful, we also have planted willow rooting sticks on wetter ground if anyone wants to compare notes on that ..... lets do it.
 
I would guess you meant 3" deep that you plant them. I used to plant the black walnut seeds, but as with ash, I have pretty much stopped planting. I want to wait and see what goes on with this species, since they are comparing what may happen to it like how the american chestnut or american elm were slaughtered. The Arizona black walnut is said to have resistance to it, I see it is listed as growing in morton arboretum in chicago, so sounds hardy, I might look into planting some of that one if I can ever find seed source. I planted some hinds walnut seed and they are couple feet tall, will see if they like this climate.
 
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