How big are the locust trees?As it turns out, I am heading to a property this evening to review it and do an amateur consultation, etc. What I know from looking at aerials thus far is that there is about a 12 acre "pasture" that used to house an elk herd that is now all grown up with locust trees. It is also sloped, how steep I do not know yet, but it looks to be sloped enough that it would not be suitable to plot/crop it. We'll see.
My question is...assuming we want to remove the fairly dense stand of locusts...what would be the best method? I am sure you don't want to try anything with an inflated tire...unless you have an unlimited supply of new tires available.
I am thinking a tracked skid steer...but what attachment and method would be best? I wouldn't want a field full of little branches with thorns on them for the next ??? year(s) laying out there. Thoughts, ideas, experiences??? TIA.
Daver
PMA Member
Now having seen them...they are BIG and there are plenty of them. These are mature, 24" DBH and above. I think they are going to need a bull dozer with steel tracks...anything inflatable will be punctured over and over.
If they do tip them over with a dozer, pile them and then burn them in a year or so...how long will the thorns last before they rot out?
Snail3496
Well-Known Member
I have burned smaller ones and the thorns turn pretty harmless over the weeks after. I'm sure it totally depends how hot and long your fire is though.
CottonwoodCanyon
Well-Known Member
Mine are next to a marshy area on the "rise" between the marsh and creek. I plan to kill them, let them dry, cut or knock them over and maybe have to move them 15-20 yards into the thicker marsh grasses and light it up. Should be plenty hot to roast the thorns I hope.
whitetailserialkillers
Member
Cut as many as you can using an electric or gas pole saw so you can stay back a few feet. Then Spray or make a pvc “dabber” to chemically treat the stumps. It’s time consuming but stick with it for a few years…it’s a marathon not a sprint
CottonwoodCanyon
Well-Known Member
Update- I finally made it out to check on the locusts on this farm and I'm pretty satisfied with the results of the drill and spray approach. Smaller diameter trees were smoked. Larger trees were mostly dead, maybe a dozen had partial leaf growth and so I girdled them to finish them off since I had the saw with me.
Snail3496
Well-Known Member
What was your mix used?
CottonwoodCanyon
Well-Known Member
1 part gly to 2 parts water. Handful of holes drilled per tree fairly low on the trunk, more depending on size, at a 45 degree angle so the chemical will sit in there like a cup.
Glad it seemed to work for you. I think triclopyr & diesel will save you ALOT of time in future. It is HIGHLY affective on locust. No cutting/drilling required. You can move FAST.
CottonwoodCanyon
Well-Known Member
Appreciate it. Mix and application tips? I’ve still got a patch on the backside I need to hit at some point.
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1 part triclopyr to 3 parts diesel. Back pack spraying. Very gently coat trunk of tree from ground to about 2' up. It really shouldn't spray. More like dribble out if that makes sense. Locust be smoked.
smithhunter1975
Active Member
Does the triclopyr and diesel basal treatment only work on small locust (like 4” and smaller)?
One other herbicide a guy can have in arsenal… Imazapyr. I learned that one the hard way…. I ordered “IMAZAPIC”…. Very very very much different herbicide & use. For native grasses with some forbs. Well- I sprayed about 10 acres and a weird light bulb went off in my head - a flashback of the label while I was pouring in.
I stopped and flew back to house. YEP- they sent me imazapyr instead!!! Roasted my natives. Gone. Luckily I only sprayed 10 acres vs 50 I was loaded for.
Anyways- cheap and widely used for brush management applications. Worth a glance if ever wanting other options. Probably no need with triclopyr & picloram (& heck, gly, diesel, 2,4-d, etc) but one more possible tool.
I stopped and flew back to house. YEP- they sent me imazapyr instead!!! Roasted my natives. Gone. Luckily I only sprayed 10 acres vs 50 I was loaded for.
Anyways- cheap and widely used for brush management applications. Worth a glance if ever wanting other options. Probably no need with triclopyr & picloram (& heck, gly, diesel, 2,4-d, etc) but one more possible tool.
a bit bigger id say. killed some in the 6-8" range. might take a second treatment, but no biggie.
One more thing on locust. They are not fire tolerant at all so if it an area that can be burned that helps a lot.
Time of year? Can you treat while dormant? Or during spring greenup?
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The best time of year is after sapping (spring greenup) all the way into fall.
bwese
Active Member
I know you want to kill the honey locust, but if you notice certain trees are targeted for their pods, you might want to leave them. I have a few that the deer hammer every year regardless of how bad the winter conditions are. I've killed hundreds but these few are safe because the deer flock to them.
There are locust with thorns and without thorns. There are locust with pods and without pods. (Female/male).
If you could propagate ONLY thornless locust with pods you'd have a badass wildlife tree and probably make yourself wealthy in the process.
If you could propagate ONLY thornless locust with pods you'd have a badass wildlife tree and probably make yourself wealthy in the process.
Hardwood11
It is going to be a good fall!
Does anyone simply tip them .. like a hinge cut ??
Snail3496
Well-Known Member
they will sucker all over the place