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How bad are autumn olive and honeysuckle?

Nrharris

Nrharris

PMA Member
My property is very wide open as it is an old cattle pasture that 2020 was the first year for no cattle. It is mostly big mature trees but they are scattered. I'm in the process of planting trees and shrubs, but am planting some every year instead of all at once. There is quite a bit of muliflora rose coming that I know I need to get rid of. I also identified a few autumn olive and honeysuckle that are growing out there as well. My question is do I need to eradicate them now while they are only a few or do I let them go for now because I am lacking the ground cover?
 
Wage full on war now! I let a couple fields get away from me with Autumn Olive. I'm going to have to bring in a mulcher now. Honeysuckle is not quite as bad in my experience, but you might as well get rid of it at the same time. I have one 10 acre area that was about 20% covered with autumn olive that became 100% impenetrable in 3-4 years. I hate that stuff and would drop a tactile nuke on my farm if it would just target autumn olive.
 
Is there something I can spray that will kill all three. The honeysuckle and autumn olive are small. Some of the multiform rose are pretty big
 
I've killed all three with a backpack sprayer and spot spraying each "bush" with a mix of glyphosate and 2-4-D. Be careful because it kills everything else that gets spray on it too. Hence the hand application versus a boom sprayer.

I'm a novice compared to many others on here, so it would not surprise me if there are better chemicals for this application. It's just what I had on hand and it did work.
 
Crossbow sprayed on foliage will kill all three , will kill other broad leaf plants too.

Definitely kill it as soon as possible, I only have 22 acres of pasture and timber and it’s a never ending battle killing honey suckle and mfr.


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Unless you can train your deer to browse it, kill it all. Basal bark spraying is the easiest and best way to treat an entire area. You could also pay a pilot to spray in November or March (unless you have conifers you want to keep) as it’s the last thing to go dormant and the first to wake up.
 
I have 5 acres I need to get to work on to remove MFR and honeysuckle. Where do I actually get basal bark herbicide, where do I go to buy it? I have a brush cutter I plan onusing and then spray the stumps. The plan says the spray is to be applied within 5 minutes of cutting. Planning to have one person on the cutter and the other with the backpack sprayer trailing behind. Also, is there or where can I get a dye to put in the spray so we can tell what has been sprayed and what hasn't?
 
sep0667 said:
I have 5 acres I need to get to work on to remove MFR and honeysuckle. Where do I actually get basal bark herbicide, where do I go to buy it? I have a brush cutter I plan onusing and then spray the stumps. The plan says the spray is to be applied within 5 minutes of cutting. Planning to have one person on the cutter and the other with the backpack sprayer trailing behind. Also, is there or where can I get a dye to put in the spray so we can tell what has been sprayed and what hasn't?
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Regarding the MFR...you can mow that and control it OR burn it and wipe it out fairly easily IMO. This is in case you want to avoid the chemical spraying. BHS??? I don't have any experience battling that, so I don't know.

Autumn Olive - I had some once upon a time, not a lot. I flush cut it with the chainsaw and then Tordon'ed the stumps. Gonezo.
 
I would avoid Tordon. Highly effective but it is also highly affective at translocating and killing good trees for a LONG time.
 
sep0667 said:
I have 5 acres I need to get to work on to remove MFR and honeysuckle. Where do I actually get basal bark herbicide, where do I go to buy it? I have a brush cutter I plan onusing and then spray the stumps. The plan says the spray is to be applied within 5 minutes of cutting. Planning to have one person on the cutter and the other with the backpack sprayer trailing behind. Also, is there or where can I get a dye to put in the spray so we can tell what has been sprayed and what hasn't?
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If you’re cutting and spraying stumps, I’d just use roundup. If you want to spray the bark without cutting, mix diesel and triclopyr at about a 4:1 rate and spray all the way around.
 
IowaBowHunter1983 said:
I would avoid Tordon. Highly effective but it is also highly affective at translocating and killing good trees for a LONG time.
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How familiar are you with that concept? Does it only translocate between like trees? For instance, oak/oak? Or is it possible to translocate from something like a hackberry to an oak or walnut? I ask because I use Tordon all the time. I have hesitated to use it around some of the bigger oaks and walnut as of yet.
 
IowaBowHunter1983 said:
I would avoid Tordon. Highly effective but it is also highly affective at translocating and killing good trees for a LONG time.
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Although I am not certain, I have a strong inclination that "it was me"...I had some volunteer mulberries underneath some spruce trees that we maintain in our yard. After crawling under the low branches of the spruce trees for the umpteenth time so as to whack the volunteer mulberries, I decided to "up my game" and dab the "stumps" of the mulberries with Tordon.

Whelp...I then noticed that 3 or 4 of the spruces were looking puny too. I eventually lost them and had to replant, harrumph. It could have been something else, but I do suspect that it was that little bit of Tordon on those mulberries.

I now only use Tordon where there is nothing adjacent that I care about.
 
T_Max said:
How familiar are you with that concept? Does it only translocate between like trees? For instance, oak/oak? Or is it possible to translocate from something like a hackberry to an oak or walnut? I ask because I use Tordon all the time. I have hesitated to use it around some of the bigger oaks and walnut as of yet.
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Very.

I would only use Tordon on fences or ditches where I was killing everything.

Tordon doesn't discriminate. It can trasnlocate to any species. It can persist for multiple years.
 
IowaBowHunter1983 said:
Very.

I would only use Tordon on fences or ditches where I was killing everything.

Tordon doesn't discriminate. It can trasnlocate to any species. It can persist for multiple years.
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Interesting. Where you blanket or area spraying? I could see where the harm would be then.

I've done some good sized TSI areas, spraying stumps with Tordon and it didn't hinder the growth in subsequent years.
 
I guess to clarify, I use the Tordon RTU in the bottle to treat stumps. I am not using the spray. Does that make a difference?
 
FWIW, my experience that I related above with mulberries was me squirting a small amount on each "stump". Many of the "stumps" were only 1/2" - 1-1/2" in diameter, in other words, they were small.
 
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