Buck Hollow Sporting Goods - click or touch to visit their website Midwest Habitat Company

Improving monoculture of osage orange/hedge trees

Jgamet

Member
The timber on my farm (80 acre patch) has long been used for cattle and primarily consists of osage orange trees. I'll be taking the cattle out next year and wanted to understand what would be the best group of tree species to plant to provide the best whitetail habitat? I'm planning on clear cutting certain areas followed by a chemical burn down to let natural grasses (hopefully not multiflora rose) come back up. I'd like to plant some higher value trees in there aside from osage orange. I'd definitely like to plant some Chestnuts (vigorous growth + great deer food) but not sure if I should plant oaks, hickory, walnut, maples, some cedars, crabapples or others?? I may own the farm for 10 yrs or 50+ (unsure) but I don't expect to ever have newer planted white oaks producing there during my lifetime.
 
You might be surprised. We had 3-4 year old Swamp White Oaks planted in a windbreak and they started dropping acorns in about 4 years. We didn’t baby them, either.

Walnuts could be a long term investment, but only benefit tree rats, IMO. Then there is the whole juglans issue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I would suggest getting a forester involved for some ideas. Diversity will be your friend. Both fast and slow growing species in the right places. Don't discount shrubs either, great food and habitat. Are you removing cattle permanently? We use cattle up in our area to set the brome back and encourage warm season grasses with early season grazing, then they are pulled in early to mid June.
 
Great topic. A Forester will help but also will open the possibility of cost share for clearing some hedge & planting trees. & that’s what it will most likely entail ….. dozer, excavator or tree puller. Clearly we want to be very careful if using a dozer not to take top soil off - good operator can aid in that if go that route.

Personally I’d plant a diverse mix. Soil type/quality will be a determining factor. I do a mix of “trees to create a forest” + “deer beneficial trees”. The first are generally deer-proof type things: cedar, wild plum, mulberry, ninebark & then a mix of faster growing trees that can tolerate some deer: sycamore, willow, maple, ash, thornless locust if u can find them, etc etc. The next group is the “deer beneficial” ones that will require protecting. Stuff like: persimmon, chestnut, all your oaks in general: agree with swamp white + chinkapin, pin oak & any others the area is lacking, pear & crabapple seedlings, etc etc. U will have mast production from fruit/nut trees listed in 5 years or so.

I don’t do all “deer trees” because protecting them is such a big task. But if I planted “1000 trees” for example…. If “200 of them” were tubed and protected- that’s more manageable. Then the other “800” could grow & tolerate deer. Make sense?

Lot of ways to do it though. Could do native grasses or forbs. I personally like seeing a diverse forest or a diverse planting in general and u got a good bit of clearing to do. Don’t forget the cost share available!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
From strictly a deer hunting perspective it is nearly impossible to beat the holding power of a hedge thicket. Deer really like the fallen leaves later in the year too. Anywhere you designate bedding I'd keep most of the hedge.
 
Swamp White Oak, Bur Oak, Red Oak, Swamp Bur Oak hybrid, Plum, Crabapple… would all get planted if it was mine !
 
Great comments, thank you! Yes, definitely thinking of involving a forester and exploring cost share options. I would be taking cattle out permanently as I would like to plant some NWSG on a few of the acres and let the area thicken up some. I love the idea of planting a large diverse mix of trees and shrubs but does seem very daunting for a novice like myself; but i suppose that's where a forester will also help.

I hadn't thought specifically of Swamp White Oaks but that's a good call out. I've also witnessed some good holding power of hedge thickets, IowaBowhunter, so I would like to leave some strategic pockets of those for sure. Sligh, that's a good 'pyramid' of priorities of which species to plant. I'll have to continue to refer back to that.
 
To echo above- I do love hedge thickets. Much like cedar - they absolutely can get out of hand. Thinning is best vs eradication. & heck- if you can cut posts out - worth great $!!!
When I start from scratch with a tree planting - hedge is always a component. So- the fact you have them established - u r well ahead of the process. Just thin & diversify.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I would start with the removal of cool season grasses and invasives., maybe run a fire through it if you can. If you have the desired oak species nearby, they will start popping up everywhere. Introduce the species you want through seedlings or even mass plantings of acorn (I prefer the latter). Plant any soft mass trees you want strategically and protect some. Don't forget about shrubs, if you have dogwood, plum, and elderberry in the area, they will find a way in.
You might be able to sell the hedge for fence posts to earn some income. Hedge debris can be somewhat tough to deal with as it decays slowly. However, downed hedge tree tops can provide great protection for seedlings, if you plant into them, put some flagging tape above seedling so you can maintain and find seedling.
Personally, I (not a forester) would not plant any maple, hickory, or cedar. Pin, Bur, and Swamp White oak can grow faster than advertised if they get adequate sun and moisture. Good Luck!
 
Top Bottom