DOR
Life Member
Arrows were matched very close for maximum performance.
See spine numbers on each shaft between 70 and 74 and all bare shafts go 390 to 400 grains.
One other thing I forgot to mention at this stage is the need to lightly sand your bare shafts. I omitted it because the tapered shafts I purchase have already been sanded and straightened for the most part and I rarely need to bother with this. However, it is a very important step if you decide to use a "more raw" shaft. Nothing worse than pulling back and hearing the roughness of a "dirty shaft".
See spine numbers on each shaft between 70 and 74 and all bare shafts go 390 to 400 grains.
One other thing I forgot to mention at this stage is the need to lightly sand your bare shafts. I omitted it because the tapered shafts I purchase have already been sanded and straightened for the most part and I rarely need to bother with this. However, it is a very important step if you decide to use a "more raw" shaft. Nothing worse than pulling back and hearing the roughness of a "dirty shaft".
DOR
Life Member
I was able to get the arrows stained this afternoon. I selected a Dark Walnut stain which happens to be my favorite. I will let this sit overnight to dry and will hopefully get after the clear coat (polyurethane)tomorrow. Anymore, I simply put on disposable vinyl gloves and dip rag into the stain/polyurethane and rub on to my satisfaction. Staining is one coat. I do 3 for the poly.
Its not the fanciest or possibly even the best way of completing this stage of the process. However, it time tested and has worked for me for years. I use to full length dip the arrows in a 36 inch home-made pvc dip tube I have but did not like the shine that this produced. If I was to make some arrows for purely show I would likely do this again. But, "them there arrows are for kill'en"
Its not the fanciest or possibly even the best way of completing this stage of the process. However, it time tested and has worked for me for years. I use to full length dip the arrows in a 36 inch home-made pvc dip tube I have but did not like the shine that this produced. If I was to make some arrows for purely show I would likely do this again. But, "them there arrows are for kill'en"
Shovelbuck
Active Member
I'm looking forward to seeing this one from start to finish!
Gotta question though. Why such heavy spine? Mikes bow is mid 50's if I remember correctly. I usually go 10 lbs. over. Is it because they are tapered shafts and they clear easier?
Gotta question though. Why such heavy spine? Mikes bow is mid 50's if I remember correctly. I usually go 10 lbs. over. Is it because they are tapered shafts and they clear easier?
Iowabowtech
Active Member
Cool thread. Love the dark walnut for wooden arrows. Thanks for taking the time to post this.
DOR
Life Member
I have found that I typically shoot a heavier spined arrow better than one that is under spined. My bow is 54@30" and these fly well for me so....
I tend to error on the side of caution as its much harder to over spine than to underspine. Nothing worse than an underspined arrow IMO. Besides, these will be so pretty that he wont want to shoot them. /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
I tend to error on the side of caution as its much harder to over spine than to underspine. Nothing worse than an underspined arrow IMO. Besides, these will be so pretty that he wont want to shoot them. /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
DOR I am just about the opposite, I generally use 45-50 or 50-55 shafts for everything from 25lbs to 72lbs. I will agree that the lighter weights might not shoot quite as well from the really heavy weights. I don't know what you will use for feathers but I always use big 5 or 5.5 shield cut feathers and these seem to stabilize well even with lighter splined shafts, but I have never used any tapered shafts just the regular Port Orford cedars.
Have you ever read about or thought about using the some of the gasket dip finishes. I have used both think the gasket stuff gives a much tougher finish. I usually give them 3 or sometimes 4 coats. I usually try to dip 2 dozen at a time and by the time I have dipped the complete first coat I can start over so I can dip the whole batch in one setting and then let them dry and harden up for a day or so before continuing on. I also like the way gasket finish holds the fletching. With the poly finish I used either Bonning or Dueco for the fletch and would some times have them come loose and peel. With the gasket finish you actually use some of the finish thinned with a little acetone for fletch cement and while sometimes a feather would get torn up, I can't remember any peeling off.
Hey I really didn't mean to steal things or try to change your mind, but some times I just get started. Keep the pics comming, it will be interesting to see how some one else does things.
Have you ever read about or thought about using the some of the gasket dip finishes. I have used both think the gasket stuff gives a much tougher finish. I usually give them 3 or sometimes 4 coats. I usually try to dip 2 dozen at a time and by the time I have dipped the complete first coat I can start over so I can dip the whole batch in one setting and then let them dry and harden up for a day or so before continuing on. I also like the way gasket finish holds the fletching. With the poly finish I used either Bonning or Dueco for the fletch and would some times have them come loose and peel. With the gasket finish you actually use some of the finish thinned with a little acetone for fletch cement and while sometimes a feather would get torn up, I can't remember any peeling off.
Hey I really didn't mean to steal things or try to change your mind, but some times I just get started. Keep the pics comming, it will be interesting to see how some one else does things.
DOR
Life Member
Bowmaker...interesting. 
Gasket dipping is something I have considered trying but have not yet. My arrows have historically held up far longer than it takes me to shoot them through critters or "misplace" them in the grass. /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
Thanks for the tips.
I would prefer to have the equipment for mass production, but I do not. A dip tank that I could lower all 12 arrows into and let drain would be sweet as it would save me a lot of time. A 12 peice Bitzenburger would be top notch as well. I am set up for small time production and I cant justify buying any more "stuff" at the moment because I simply dont do enough arrows.
On to todays action....I know everyone is really excited. /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
Gasket dipping is something I have considered trying but have not yet. My arrows have historically held up far longer than it takes me to shoot them through critters or "misplace" them in the grass. /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif Thanks for the tips.
I would prefer to have the equipment for mass production, but I do not. A dip tank that I could lower all 12 arrows into and let drain would be sweet as it would save me a lot of time. A 12 peice Bitzenburger would be top notch as well. I am set up for small time production and I cant justify buying any more "stuff" at the moment because I simply dont do enough arrows.
On to todays action....I know everyone is really excited. /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
DOR
Life Member
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pharmer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Busy at work? I'll bet you haven't used that Remington's since school. </div></div>
Lets just say there is a reason I drive 100 miles a day to get to and from work. Whats "Rremingtons" LOL.....Good to see your still around Pharmer. /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/tired.gif
</div></div>Lets just say there is a reason I drive 100 miles a day to get to and from work. Whats "Rremingtons" LOL.....Good to see your still around Pharmer. /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/tired.gif
DOR
Life Member
Completed the dip phase today.
Went pretty smooth. I could have let the paint settle a little longer in the dip tube as I had to fight off some air bubbles, but nothing a little blowing could not solve. I only had to re-dip one arrow. With a little patience this could have been avoided altogether.
I have used Rustoleum paint for years. I use to buy some of the more expensive stuff at the archery shop, but gradually shifted to the Rustoleum seeing as it is cheaper and serves the purpose just fine. You can pick it up at any Menards and it is compatible with Duco cement used for fletching.
Sunburst yellow was the color of choice for this project.
I use a hand made dip tube that my dad put together more than 15 years ago probably. It has seen way more arrows then I care to count. For this batch a dip of 9 inches was used.
The dipping process is pretty basic as can be seen. Just be sure to have your shaft clean and watch for air bubbles.
I will let these dry over the weekend and start the cresting process next week.
Went pretty smooth. I could have let the paint settle a little longer in the dip tube as I had to fight off some air bubbles, but nothing a little blowing could not solve. I only had to re-dip one arrow. With a little patience this could have been avoided altogether.
I have used Rustoleum paint for years. I use to buy some of the more expensive stuff at the archery shop, but gradually shifted to the Rustoleum seeing as it is cheaper and serves the purpose just fine. You can pick it up at any Menards and it is compatible with Duco cement used for fletching.
Sunburst yellow was the color of choice for this project.
I use a hand made dip tube that my dad put together more than 15 years ago probably. It has seen way more arrows then I care to count. For this batch a dip of 9 inches was used.
The dipping process is pretty basic as can be seen. Just be sure to have your shaft clean and watch for air bubbles.
I will let these dry over the weekend and start the cresting process next week.
Shovelbuck
Active Member
We're waiting!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
blake
Life Member
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shovelbuck</div><div class="ubbcode-body">We're waiting!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif </div></div>
Yeah come on DOR, you should have had them do by now. What have you been doing? /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
PM
Ron Wyllie
Southwest Iowa IBA Area Representative
rwyllie@iowawhitetail.com
DOR
Life Member
Couldn't let this project get in the way of my Ice fishing trip up to Lake of the Woods. Just got back tonight. By the way the fresh walleye I just put down was mighty tastey!!! /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/tired.gif
On top of that, this is a project to complete on the job so to speak. Haven't been there since last Tuesday. Will get a start on it tomorrow hopefully when I return to the daily grind of reality. /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif Sorry for the delay. I know this is far too exciting for many of you!!
On top of that, this is a project to complete on the job so to speak. Haven't been there since last Tuesday. Will get a start on it tomorrow hopefully when I return to the daily grind of reality. /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cool.gif Sorry for the delay. I know this is far too exciting for many of you!!
DOR
Life Member
cresting
OK, I know this was a long abandoned post....just got busy I guess. I will try to finish this off now that Mike has the arrows in hand......FINALLY.:dr
This is the cresting set-up I have used for years. Its a Bohning Crestor . I use the same Rustoleum paints to complete the cresting. In this case Mike wanted to go with Hawkeye colors....so that what I did.
ink2:
OK, I know this was a long abandoned post....just got busy I guess. I will try to finish this off now that Mike has the arrows in hand......FINALLY.:dr
This is the cresting set-up I have used for years. Its a Bohning Crestor . I use the same Rustoleum paints to complete the cresting. In this case Mike wanted to go with Hawkeye colors....so that what I did.
