Rattling advise

[Cornfed]

I would like some advise from some of you who have used rattling a lot in the past...... I have rattled very little in the past mostly due to primarily hunting mid November. What I am looking for is.... ie. do you hang your antlers on side of tree? or other techniques.... what is the easiest way to keep from getting 'busted' by bucks? Any tried and true recommendations would be greatly appreciated!!! In other words, I am wanting to learn from YOUR mistakes

 

[BW]

Buddy, I can give you a PhD just filling you in on my mistakes!

This is a subject that I always am able to learn neat stuff from others.

I view my experience rattling like calling turkeys. I have spooked deer, brought them in running, brought them in sneaking and just made noise. I doubt I rattle enough or at the right time. I just rattle when it seems like the thing to do.

I limit my " blind call" rattling to large antlers only. I don't want any scabs strolling in. I use a 140" set of natural bone. The numbers of deer responding seem to be lower but to date, nothing under 130" has ever responded to the big horns.

I use my rattle bag or tine tickling when I can see something that I want to come in. When I rattle, I try to stay totally focused and every movement is planned out. I try to keep my gear handy to where I do not have to move much to control it and it makes noise only when I want it to.

I got caught snoozing last fall by a nice buck when I decided to watch an eagle fly over as I set the bag down. He busted me at 100 yards. I spotted him 15 minutes earlier at 150 yards, rattled a few rounds. He played dumb and I got dumb while he slinked back through a ditch right in front of me.

Patience pays.

I would be interested in hearing experience with dangling your horns/bag on a rope near the ground or if anyone dedicates to ground hunting and rattling.

 

[jason]

I'm still learing the basics of rattling, but I developed a few tricks of my own. First use real horns! Rattling bags are compact, but don't sound like the real deal.
Second, let the deer tell you what they want. I watch there body language for about a week and decide if it's rattling time or if it's to early. If I decide it's time, look closer at what they are doing. If you see bucks sparing, then try sparing the next day. If you see buck being really agressive, lay into your horns. Last year I had a buck come running in to me while I was slamming the antlers together. He never made it in all the way because a nother buck intersect him and they began going at it. I didn't see it, but I heard it, and one buck got his butt KICKED! That time I was hitting the horns together so hard I chipped one of the tines!
But even a few days after peak rut was over, I rattled for a friend and I still called in a little 5 point.
But I haven't figured out how to put my antlers down when the buck is charging in. Im affraid one will sneek in on me, and when I have to put my horns down he'll see me. But when Im not using them I just hang them on my e-z hanger.
I think the most important part about rattling is, not over rattling. Rattling a few consectutive day in a row fromt he same stand will let the deer catch on to you. And when you rattle, try to mix up your rythm. Don't sound like a broken record when you rattle! Mix it up, try to find what the deer like at that period of the bow season!
Good luck

Jason

 

[Shredder]

I have made a ton of mistakes in the past, here are just a few.

1. always look around before you start to rattle and make sure you do not have one standing in bow range already

2. Set up in thicker cover, make the big one come look for you. If you are on a field edge, a decoy helps tremendously.

3. Raking the tree a minute or two prior to a simulated battle will sometimes draw in a buck to investigate the "deer" rubbing a tree. (Refer back to #1 before you start your rattling sequence"

4. Pause occationally during your rattling to listen for a deer coming and keep your eyes open while you are beating the bones together.

5. Too late to do it now but you can use some wood stains on natural antlers to have a camo effect and loose the white of the bone. In otherwords, if you have dark sheds, use them rather than the bleached ones. That buck looked at me like I was trying to flag in some snow geese.

6. If a deer is moving away from you because you have already messed up, ie, sees you in the tree, do not pick up the horns and try to call him back, it only educates him and makes him nearly uncallable in the future.

I can go on and one with mistakes but these are ones that have cost me big bucks in the past. #1 was just plain stupid on my part, a 160 inch 10 pt. For each mistake I have made, I have had a good learning experience to walk away with. Have fun with it, don't over do it, and if you ever get a chance to see and actual buck fight, you will learn more about tecnique in 30 seconds from that than anyone can ever show you with sheds. I have been fortunate enough to witness two full blown fights lasting over 3 minutes each and have heard 5-6 more from a distance........Good luck with it


6.

 

[Fletch]

I'm no expert but I have made as many mistakes as anyone. Shredders advice is on the mark. I would also add, hang your antlers is a spot that makes it easy to clear your hands quickly. I have had bucks come in so quickly that I couldn't get my bow in time. Since then I hang my antlers at waist level so all I need to do is drop my hand to the side and hang the bones. I also have a hook I put on my safety belt on which I can hang my bow. If a deer comes in fast I can discard the antlers and grab my bow in no time and with little movement.

Also set up in a fairly thick area so the deer will have to come in to investigate. I have rattled in open hardwoods only to have the responding deer hang up 80 yards out because they know they should be able to see the ruckus from there.

Don't get impatient. Often a buck may take some time to respond. I have rattled at a buck who seemed to ignore it, only to have them come sneaking in 20 minutes later. Been busted a couple times on this one.

Finally be creative, you are trying to convince the deer that there are two rivals, and maybe a girlfriend, in his neighborhood. I once had a buck respond only to hang up 75 yards out. He started to loose interest, so I reached back and pulled some bark off the tree and dropped it into the leaves below. He charged in to 15 yards. I decided to pass on him, but just for fun I reached in my pocket and flipped my can call. The bleet was barely audable but he charged right past my tree and paced the area looking for the source. The rut is a powerful thing.

Good luck.

 

[spinefxr]

I use a rattling bag, and I like to tie it around the arm rest on my climber. That way I can sit or stand and rattle and slam it against the tree if I'm trying to sound aggressive. It's also easy to pick up and set down.

 

[NWBuck]

All of these posts have good ideas, and I'll add another. I'll use a rattling bag early in the season. It's easy to make the "tickling" sounds of a friendly sparring match. I may use both hands if blind calling, but once I spot a buck I stick the bag in the large front bellow pocket of my bibs (right side). That way I can hold my bow with my left hand and still make a few soft tickling sounds with my right hand when the deer isn't looking directly at me. This has worked pretty well for me...especially early in the season (like October 1-20). In fact, I may just be trying it out in a few short hours! Good luck!

NWBuck

 

[Cornfed]

Thanks guys for all the insight!!! I will certainly be giving it more of a try this season.....

 

[mq man]

What about rattling during the pre rut, around the last week of October? Is that a good strategy?