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Soil test results

Sligh1

Sligh1

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Just got these this am. These are some plots I’ve kept up on “pretty well”. Common theme across my area…. Low on sulfur, boron & low PH. My PH is “low” on some but I’ve kept up on it reasonably well. Some folks in my area have done nothing & have PH in the 4’s!!!! Which is insane acidity where things struggle to grow. This is gonna save some $ for sure on P&K where folks without soil tests would keep applying far more than needed.
Took me 3 hours to pull these, package & send in. Very worth while!!
BC98E72D-0FC7-484C-8D71-263979D10B65.jpeg
 
You have great calcium base saturations! T-1, P-1 only locations under 60%. Lime an easy fix of course for these..

Gypsum a dirt cheap + easy source of sulfur since you're over 60% Ca BS in most fields. (I assume you don't use AMS because of the manure add for N source?)

Surprised they don't show any Mg additions on area B-2. Would raise your pH as well since your Ca is sufficient.

Nothing you don't know already Skip, thanks for sharing!

I'll post mine in early May, and you can poke fun at my high Mg soils :)
 
Bassattackr said:
You have great calcium base saturations! T-1, P-1 only locations under 60%. Lime an easy fix of course for these..

Gypsum a dirt cheap + easy source of sulfur since you're over 60% Ca BS in most fields. (I assume you don't use AMS because of the manure add for N source?)

Surprised they don't show any Mg additions on area B-2. Would raise your pH as well since your Ca is sufficient.

Nothing you don't know already Skip, thanks for sharing!

I'll post mine in early May, and you can poke fun at my high Mg soils :)
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I do run ams in my herbicide. Maybe I’ll do some ams as a part of the N application. Or I sure could get a cart & add everything I need with the cart. When I do AG lime- which is going on now- I still will add a bit of pelletized lime if I run other things through a cart. We can get granular sulfur added to a cart. Or how are u using ams to correct sulfur deficiencies?
 
I've been buying time with pelletized lime also, at least until one of my neighbors can get a "big" tractor to spread Ag lime for me.. Local Agri supply will give me a pallet discount so that helps. Also fills the gap until the ag lime does its thing.

Our 50 HP tractor has a drawbar max of about 6.5k lbs so that would be a lot of trips trying to add even 1 ton / acre to a 5 acre field considering the spreader alone is about 3800 lbs empty.

I only use AMS when I need nitrogen - milo or brassicas most commonly. At 21-0-024S analysis, it's a decent dose of sulfur in a very useable form (not sure what the liquid form analysis is?). But if I don't need nitrogen (clovers, cereals for example), then I just use Gypsum for sulfur. Much cheaper at $6 or so a bag.. Most are around 22% Ca + 17% S.

I'll also be using S to drive the magnesium out of my soils but a moot point until the Ca saturation is corrected.
 
Ya- that’s the bugger for AG lime!!! Only way I get it done for plots is when I do AG fields at same time. That’s a huge tractor & spreader made for it.
For guys with smaller tractors …. I have wondered if there’s any scenario AG lime could run through a fertilizer cart if it were dry enough. I have not tried it but sure would be nice if get it to flow through even if had to make several passes.
Pelletized is nice & easy but exactly…. Band aid & so expensive!! It would not be a band aid if a guy put it down at the called for rates. Imagine paying for 4,000 lbs of pelletized lime though.
 
Looks like it can be done might not want to do it on a windy day or your timber will have a great PH:p



<iframe width="853" height="480" src="
" title="Can You Spread Pulverized Lime in a 3-Point Spreader? Lets Find Out" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
I use an old drop spreader 5 or 6 feet long. (1960 ish drop fertilizer/ lime spreader) and put a 3 or 4" bolt on each of the knives on the inside. That keeps it mixing and it stays loose enough to drop. It puts the lime where you want it.
 
I tried one of those cone shaped three point spreaders once with lime and i had to shovel it back out by hand! Would not waste time with that. I have been looking for a narrow drop seeder to apply lime to remote plots.
 
IowaBowHunter1983 said:
What are your thoughts on quarry lime?
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To me they are one in the same. Most Ag lime is sourced from local quarries, at least around here..

The powdery content is what destroys gear boxes, not made for spreading that material. Other issues - Fertilizer spreaders not meant to spread tons, only pounds. Spreader will be limited width as powder doesn't "sling" as far, so lots of passes to work..
 
Bassattackr said:
To me they are one in the same. Most Ag lime is sourced from local quarries, at least around here..

The powdery content is what destroys gear boxes, not made for spreading that material. Other issues - Fertilizer spreaders not meant to spread tons, only pounds. Spreader will be limited width as powder doesn't "sling" as far, so lots of passes to work..
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10-4. For the foodplot guy, I can find trucking companies that will spread quarry lime with a spreader truck. The Co Op just laughs when you talk to them about doing Ag lime on foodplots.
 
Most farmers & coops laugh at deer hunters doing what we do for deer no matter what it is!! ;).

AG lime from a quarry is just fine. The only issue in most of the areas - at least where I’m at …. The quarry lime has high magnesium levels. As u see on my soil test- I’m way too high as it is. Long story short- high Mag causes issues!!! Adding more isn’t ideal. BUT bottom line- using quarry lime with high mag is vastly superior to doing nothing & id use it if I couldn’t get the water plant lime that has zero Mag.
On a plot…. Non issue in reality. Id get any form of AG lime applied u can find.
Last tiny side note- quarry lime will take longest to break down. So before winter or during winter is ideal. Another solution to fix it is to add some pelletized lime year 1 until AG lime starts working.
 
Sligh1 said:
Most farmers & coops laugh at deer hunters doing what we do for deer no matter what it is!! ;).

AG lime from a quarry is just fine. The only issue in most of the areas - at least where I’m at …. The quarry lime has high magnesium levels. As u see on my soil test- I’m way too high as it is. Long story short- high Mag causes issues!!! Adding more isn’t ideal. BUT bottom line- using quarry lime with high mag is vastly superior to doing nothing & id use it if I couldn’t get the water plant lime that has zero Mag.
On a plot…. Non issue in reality. Id get any form of AG lime applied u can find.
Last tiny side note- quarry lime will take longest to break down. So before winter or during winter is ideal. Another solution to fix it is to add some pelletized lime year 1 until AG lime starts working.
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What is the best way to reduce high mag? What kind of issues will too high cause? I just got a soil test back from a new field. Mag is sky high at 439 ppm, the rest are all low.

P 8ppm, K 115ppm, & Ca 1379 ppm.

6.4 pH though :)
 
Lime.jpg


Got a nice boost to start the year. 15T on 7 acres should help me getting back in the right direction :)
 
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Snail3496 said:
What is the best way to reduce high mag? What kind of issues will too high cause? I just got a soil test back from a new field. Mag is sky high at 439 ppm, the rest are all low.

P 8ppm, K 115ppm, & Ca 1379 ppm.

6.4 pH though :)
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Magnesium and Calcium are the foundational relationship that form the physical soil structure. The correct physical structure is what allows the biological side to blossom. The soil colloid (or dinner plate), only holds so much (food) on it.

- Magnesium tightens soil, which holds in moisture, but also increases water runoff if too high. Soil too high in magnesium feels like concrete. It also "ties up" or doesn't allow the plant to absorb other nutrients.

- Calcium loosens soil which allows it to take water, and gives the soil "tilth". Soil too high in calcium is very porous, doesn't hold water well and tends to dry out quickly.

- Too high calcium can reduce the availability of magnesium, and vice versa. Along with all the other minerals. Your target is a balance of nutrients as each soil colloid can only hold so much. (To fit the extra stuffing on your plate at thanksgiving, you have to give up space for something else)..

Most don't realize that Magnesium and Calcium both increase pH. Magnesium does at a rate of 1.7X what calcium does. So your soil pH can be artificially high, but still have poor calcium levels. When you shed magnesium, you actually drop soil pH until you right the ship and get the calcium level high enough.

To drop magnesium out of the soil, one must introduce sulfur to bond with the magnesium and drop it out of the soil. Both elemental sulfur and sulfate (the source available to plants) drop magnesium out of the soil. Sulfate is the preferred source if you need it for immediate plant availability, but elemental Sulfur will still convert to sulfate over time.

Your 3:1 Ca to Mg ratio is not bad. Mine is 1.5:1. That's high magnesium. The Base Saturation percentages are the numbers you want to compare. Ideal soil has a Ca base saturation of 60 - 80% depending on your soil characteristics, with an ideal ratio of closer to 5 or 6:1.

Hands on Agronomy by Neal Kinsey is a great read if you're interested in a basic agronomy course.

Hope that helps :D
 
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Bassattackr said:
Magnesium and Calcium are the foundational relationship that form the physical soil structure. The correct physical structure is what allows the biological side to blossom. The soil colloid (or dinner plate), only holds so much (food) on it.

- Magnesium tightens soil, which holds in moisture, but also increases water runoff if too high. Soil too high in magnesium "ties up" or doesn't allow the plant to absorb other nutrients.

- Calcium loosens soil which allows it to take water. Soil too high in calcium don't hold water and tend to dry out quickly.

- Too high calcium can reduce the availability of magnesium, and vice versa. Along with all the other minerals. Your target is a balance of nutrients. (To fit the extra stuffing on your plate at thanksgiving, you have to give up space for something else)..

Most don't realize that Magnesium and Calcium both increase pH. Magnesium does at a rate of 2.5X what calcium does. So most people that shed magnesium actually drop soil pH until they right the ship and get their calcium levels high enough.

To drop magnesium out of the soil, one must introduce sulfur to bond with the calcium and drop out of the soil. Both elemental sulfur and sulfate (source plants eat) drop magnesium out of the soil. But sulfate is the preferred source if you need it for immediate plant availability. Elemental Sulfur will convert to sulfate over time.

Your 3:1 Ca to Mg ratio is not bad. Mine is 1.5:1. That's high magnesium. The Base Saturation percentages are the numbers you want to compare. Ideal soil has a Ca base saturation of 60 - 80% depending on your soil characteristics, with an ideal ratio of closer to 5 or 6:1.

Hands on Agronomy by Neal Kinsey is a great read if you're interested in a basic agronomy course.

Hope that helps :D
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This is great!!!!
 
Bassattackr said:
Magnesium and Calcium are the foundational relationship that form the physical soil structure. The correct physical structure is what allows the biological side to blossom. The soil colloid (or dinner plate), only holds so much (food) on it.

- Magnesium tightens soil, which holds in moisture, but also increases water runoff if too high. Soil too high in magnesium feels like concrete, "ties up" or doesn't allow the plant to absorb other nutrients.

- Calcium loosens soil which allows it to take water and gives the soil "tilth". Soil too high in calcium doen't hold water well and tends to dry out quickly.

- Too high calcium can reduce the availability of magnesium, and vice versa. Along with all the other minerals. Your target is a balance of nutrients as each soil colloid can only hold so much. (To fit the extra stuffing on your plate at thanksgiving, you have to give up space for something else)..

Most don't realize that Magnesium and Calcium both increase pH. Magnesium does at a rate of 2.5X what calcium does. So your soil pH can be artificially high, but still have poor calcium levels. When you shed magnesium, you actually drop soil pH until you right the ship and get the calcium level high enough.

To drop magnesium out of the soil, one must introduce sulfur to bond with the magnesium and drop it out of the soil. Both elemental sulfur and sulfate (the source available to plants) drop magnesium out of the soil. Sulfate is the preferred source if you need it for immediate plant availability, but elemental Sulfur will still convert to sulfate over time.

Your 3:1 Ca to Mg ratio is not bad. Mine is 1.5:1. That's high magnesium. The Base Saturation percentages are the numbers you want to compare. Ideal soil has a Ca base saturation of 60 - 80% depending on your soil characteristics, with an ideal ratio of closer to 5 or 6:1.

Hands on Agronomy by Neal Kinsey is a great read if you're interested in a basic agronomy course.

Hope that helps :D
Click to expand...

Fantastic info.


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interesting info in this thread. Is it worth the cost/time/effort in your guys opinion to put some gyp on this plot? Clover in it looks really good, it’s being utilized by the deer big time. Im due to get my soil tests updated and I’ll be using the local coop this time as you can tell the whitetail inst. report is fairly basic and doesn’t show sulfur. Thoughts?


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