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Talk to me about crimpers

IowaBowHunter1983

Well-Known Member
Staff member
As I no tilled beans into several standing rye plots Saturday I was thinking.... man I should get a crimper.

Holy expensive! Why? They seem so simple.

Wonder how a cultipacker would do. Obviously not as good, but good enough?
 
We were planning on getting a crimper for knocking down winter rye for the spring plot, and then buckwheat for the fall plots. But after consulting with Adam Keith from Land and Legacy, he said that since we already notill He advised that since we use a notill drill, crimper isn’t needed.

Crimper comes from the notill ag world where they use it in place of chemical.

He convinced me not to get one.

If you do decide to move forward, I have a contact in Missouri who makes them much cheaper.


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We were planning on getting a crimper for knocking down winter rye for the spring plot, and then buckwheat for the fall plots. But after consulting with Adam Keith from Land and Legacy, he said that since we already notill He advised that since we use a notill drill, crimper isn’t needed.

Crimper comes from the notill ag world where they use it in place of chemical.

He convinced me not to get one.

If you do decide to move forward, I have a contact in Missouri who makes them much cheaper.

I've heard of guys just using their FEL to knock it down with drill attached behind them. Just lower to ground and raise front edge up a touch.. Single pass. I plan to try this next spring for my rye.
 
We were planning on getting a crimper for knocking down winter rye for the spring plot, and then buckwheat for the fall plots. But after consulting with Adam Keith from Land and Legacy, he said that since we already notill He advised that since we use a notill drill, crimper isn’t needed.

Crimper comes from the notill ag world where they use it in place of chemical.

He convinced me not to get one.

If you do decide to move forward, I have a contact in Missouri who makes them much cheaper.


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Would you mind sharing your Missouri contact information?

Thanks
 
It all depends on your objectives. If you want to add organic matter at higher rate and have more biomass on ground to suppress weeds.....crimping helps alot. That is assuming you crimp the right species at the right time. Crimping breaks the stem on mature plants. It is highly likely that herbicides will still be needed after crimping.

Rolling does not kill the plant. If the plant is mature it might lay down and stay down. But it all depends. If you are just wanting to keep things simple, no-till and herbicides goes a long way. Crimping makes management more complicated but has advantages.
 
Would you mind sharing your Missouri contact information?

Thanks

Sure. Tommy at +1 (660) 888-8560. Here is a pic of one of his from April.

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