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Thorny Locust Removal

sep0667

sep0667

Land of the Whitetail
I have a quite a few thorny locust. From my research killing them isnt as simple as just cutting them down. Seems like I need to cut and treat the stump.

What about girdling them? I couldn't find anything about that. Or anyone have good luck with just cutting them down? Anything less than 10 inch or so truck I'd like to just cut them down if possible, but without treating them sounds like they will sprout shoots up and become worse.
 
Locust are terrible about sprouting back if you don’t treat the stump. Girdling works really well on the bigger trees but need treated. Get inside the bark layer around the entire trunk and treat with chemical like Tordon RTU or Pathway (and others). I will not cut or girdle a locust without treating unless you want them to come back even more nasty by resprouting. Hack and squirt may work but I can’t speak to that.
 
Tordon is GREAT! But can spread through roots to other systems if near by so be careful. Forester recommended to me 41 percent round-up or similar undiluted to do the ticket.
 
JNRBRONC said:
How fast does Triclopyr and diesel work? If sprayed now, do you see funky shaped leaves when buds break?
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Im not sure on trees. But thats what I've used the past two winters for multi flora rose and honey suckle. the mfr i basal bark srpayed and the honey suckle was stump cut and then treat the stump. It did a great job and killed both really well. Some of the honeysuckle was huge too, some probably a 10 inch diameter stump.

I have some left over tricloyr so i'll use it on the honey locust stumps
 
How long does it take that tordon to spread? I’ve killed a lot of russian olive with it the last few years but have not seen any evidence of it spreading
 
sundog78 said:
How long does it take that tordon to spread? I’ve killed a lot of russian olive with it the last few years but have not seen any evidence of it spreading
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It remains active for up to 5 years. Not a guarentee it will kill anything but it is a risk. Not one I'm willing to take when there are other options
 
My chemical rep mentioned that Tordon can spread with like species so if you are killing an oak and don’t want to kill the next oak beside it then don’t use it. Also don’t over apply and let it rain off on to the ground are the main two issues with Tordon. You would see firing and other signs in the area if you were going to have a problem. But like 1983 said there are other options. If you are in a grass/old pasture scenario like I guess I assumed you would be fine. Timber or thick area where you want to be super selective probably wouldn’t run the risk.
 
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JNRBRONC said:
Concerns on burning herbicide killed trees as firewood? I’d rather not, but seems like a waste.
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Got to thinking more about this.

At work, the toxic and hazardous chemicals are collected with them eventually going out of state where they are burned at high temperatures. Not 100% sure but I was told that they use the heat generated in part of the cement making process. Snip/link below:

According to the American Society of Testing of Materials (ASTM), Portland cement is made by mixing calcareous (consisting mostly of calcium carbonate) material such as limestone with silica-, alumina-, and iron oxide-containing materials. These substances are then burned until they fuse together, and the resulting admixture, or clinker, is ground to form.

Then, there is the whole bio-remediation movement where poplar trees are planted on toxic waste sites since they absorb the chemicals, then the trees are chipped and burned as fuel.

Think I'll still burn non-sprayed wood though.
 
JNRBRONC said:
Got to thinking more about this.

At work, the toxic and hazardous chemicals are collected with them eventually going out of state where they are burned at high temperatures. Not 100% sure but I was told that they use the heat generated in part of the cement making process. Snip/link below:

According to the American Society of Testing of Materials (ASTM), Portland cement is made by mixing calcareous (consisting mostly of calcium carbonate) material such as limestone with silica-, alumina-, and iron oxide-containing materials. These substances are then burned until they fuse together, and the resulting admixture, or clinker, is ground to form.

Then, there is the whole bio-remediation movement where poplar trees are planted on toxic waste sites since they absorb the chemicals, then the trees are chipped and burned as fuel.

Think I'll still burn non-sprayed wood though.
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garlon & fuel oil will do the trick
 
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