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Video: Sharpening Cut On Contact Broadheads

Well, even if it didn't help anybody I kinda hope others might try their hand at a video. Could be a good thing for the site to have some interactive learning material. :eek:
 
There would be fewer lost animals if everyone learned to maintain their heads at that kind of level. There is sharp and then there is...... frightening sharp.

Nice video:way:
 
Is that a hard Arkansas stone? I noticed it looks to be a little loaded with shavings/grit. I've run mine through the dishwasher and it cleans it right up.

Nice video.
 
Have you ever run into the broad head being off balance, after you resharpen them?
Did arrows fly much different after you sharpen them?
Have you ever weighed them before and after you sharpened them, to see how much weight is lost when re-sharpening?

Not dissin ya at all, just curious about these things.
It's all stuff i've thought about, when it comes to resharpening my blades.
I really like the vid and am going to have to resharpen my COC broadheads this year. :way:

Thanks,
J
 
JNRBRONC said:
Is that a hard Arkansas stone? I noticed it looks to be a little loaded with shavings/grit. I've run mine through the dishwasher and it cleans it right up.

Nice video.
Click to expand...

I used a metal file, diamond steel and leather strop. The diamond steel gets loaded with grit also.
 
Have you ever run into the broad head being off balance, after you resharpen them?
Not really but that's why I mention several times in the vid to use the same number of strokes on each side.
Did arrows fly much different after you sharpen them?
No.
Have you ever weighed them before and after you sharpened them, to see how much weight is lost when re-sharpening?
Excellent question. Yes, using my Dillon grain scale, I've found on average I lose about 0.3 grains per sharpening using this method. So I can sharpen 3 times and not even lose one grain. Basically, I figure a guy is more likely to lose the broadhead before he sharpens it enough times to cause and appreciable difference in flight due to weight loss.
 
Great video. Next year I will start buying a head that I can sharpen easily. Snuffers look pretty solid.
 
Daver said:
Yes, thanks for sharing it. Now I wish someone would make a "how-to" for Muzzy's. :)
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Dave,
I'm guessing a Lansky would do a nice job on the Muzzy blades using either a fine diamond or soft Arkansas hone. I'd try it but I don't have any Muzzy blades.
 
Iowabowtech said:
Dave,
I'm guessing a Lansky would do a nice job on the Muzzy blades using either a fine diamond or soft Arkansas hone. I'd try it but I don't have any Muzzy blades.
Click to expand...

I have a Lansky sharpening system and use it on a variety of edges with very good results. However, because of the design of the standard Muzzy blade I can't see how to "get 'er done" with this type of system. If you look down the "end" of a Muzzy blade you will see that it has an "L" shape and that shape, to me, prevents it from being sharpened by a Lansky.

I would like to come up with a way though to do it, since I have a boatload of dull Muzzy blades around. If it was just me hunting, that is one thing, but with two teenagers slinging arrows too, the dull blades stack up fast. :grin:
 
Could you post a closeup pic of a blade Dave? If there's a 90 degree "L", could you just stick it out the side of the clamp and still have access to the section of the blade that gets sharpened?
 
I use the X Block system to sharpen my Snuffers. Then, for an added edge, strop on leather until scary shaving sharp!!!
 
Iowabowtech said:
Could you post a closeup pic of a blade Dave? If there's a 90 degree "L", could you just stick it out the side of the clamp and still have access to the section of the blade that gets sharpened?
Click to expand...

I'll take some pics tonight, but I believe the answer to your question is, "not really". You can rig it and be able to sharpen about 1/2 of the blade, but not all of it. I'll take some pics with my Lanksy system too.
 
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