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Brassicas

Last year we planted this mix on one acre ,with heavy N applied, per Dbltree's recommendation.
Purple Top Turnips 3#
Dwarf Essex Rape 2#
GroundHog Forage radish 5#

It seems that the brassicas were "too" crowded and didn't have as much bulb/root development as they should have. It seemed that the ones around the edges that had more room had a lot better bulb/root growth.

We are trying to figure out if we should reduce the amount, say in 1/2, or did we just get lucky and have better germination than normal and should stick with the same amount?

5# per acre of rape and turnip seed is a normal seeding rate and 10#'s or radish is a normal seeding rate, so with the radish cut in half this mix is by no means excessive.

What you experienced is common in cases where too much seed was put on and/or too little moisture followed.

The key to this mix is having enough deer pressure/grazing to self thin the forage radish, giving the rape and turnips room to grow. Those that have few deer may need to cut back rates and possible the size of the brassica plot itself to force heavier grazing.

The rates listed are for normal germination so the fact that they did not do well is not about germ rate but simply too many plants for the soil type, nutrients and soil moisture available.

Cut back seeding rates, increase nitrogen application and be sure to rotate with other crops that help build soil organic matter to help hold both moisture and nutrients. ;)
 
June 22nd, 2012

Planting Rates

The following brassica seed combination has worked well for me and is commonly available at reasonable prices

Purple Top Turnips 3#
Dwarf Essex Rape 2#
GroundHog Forage radish 5#

There however many many varieties of rape and turnips to choose from and almost any of them will perform well, the Daikon forage radish has no "varieties"...only VNS seed that is "trademarked" with "names" like Groundhog, Tillage, Trophy etc....seed should be under or around $3.00 a pound so look for the the most reasonably priced source of seed, closest to you.

If you can not locate a source near your, the following are a couple options...

Welter Seed carries a wide variety of brassicas and will sell seed by the pound.

Aaron Palm at Iowa-Missouri Hybrids carries the above listed seeds and can custom mix them and ship seeds by the pound also.

cell 641-919-1695

Most non legume crops have planting "rates" that vary depending on soil fertility and rainfall, highly productive black loam soils with plentiful rainfall and optimum nutrient levels can support higher seeding rates then sandy dry soils or clay sub soils. The rates I post are assuming the following

1) You have productive soils with a minimum of 3% organic matter and sufficient rainfall
2) A minimum of 80-100#'s of actual nitrogen (200#'s of urea) tilled in at planting
3) Enough grazing pressure to self thin the crop starting with the forage radish
4) Whitetails already adapted to feeding on brassicas

Brassica planting rates can vary from 2 to 12#'s per acre so use good judgement when planting brassicas for the first time and lower rates if any of the above criteria are not met. That mix is outstanding on every farm I plant it on in SE Iowa and whitetails feed heavily on it.

PICT0030.jpg


Rotations

By now, everyone who follows my threads can see that I encourage the use of crop rotations for a number of reasons and it should be clear that this is easy do in any sized field down to a garden sized plot. Dividing the plot in half or in strips such as this...

StripplotsJune2012.jpg


For those new to the idea of planting multiple crops in the SAME field and then rotating them...it may seem at first confusing but it is in fact very simple and easy. Note that perennial white clover in this field is in the upper left, an odd corner of the field but could be any one of the strips". The green strips of oats and annual clovers were brassicas last year and the mowed rye straw was winter rye and red clover....the strips of oats will be planted to rye and red clover this fall and the rye strips will be brassicas.

StripplotsJune2012wexplanation.jpg


Each year we simply rotate the crops back and forth so that we never have to plant the same crop in the same place back to back yet....we always have ALL the crops in ONE field and those crops provide a steady food supply for whitetails year around. Doing so adapts them to always, always coming there, making them predictable and easy to kill.

The oats you see in the pics were planted in the dead brassica strips along with berseem and crimson clovers....this combination provides lush, spring and summer food sources (versus a "dirt plot" following the dead brassicas) that keeps deer coming to the feeding area and also the clovers will provide nitrogen for the following rye crop and biomass to help improve soil organic matter.

I will shred the oats in late August and take advantage of the "free" seed to mix with the rye/peas/red clover and radish but we do NOT want oats mixed in with our brassicas! The oats will compete with the brassicas so if you planted oats for a first time food source before dividing your plot and planting 1/2 to brassicas...get the oats clipped before they go to seed.

When they reach this stage...clip the oats off if you will be planting brassicas there....

Oats.jpg


By planting the following crops (using common sense judgment in regards to planting rates on your soils) you will raise healthy lush crops that will be very palatable and attractive to whitetails, crops that will be free of pests and diseases, crops that will not only feed deer but over time build beautiful top soil high in organic matter, soils that will hold moisture during droughts and help you avoid crop failures.... ;)

Plant ALL in one plot in strips or blocks

Alice, KopuII, Durana (or comparable) white clovers 10% of plot...plant with the rye mix below and soil test for needed P&K/lime requirements. Lacking a soil test I use 400#'s of 6-28-28 and 500#'s of pel lime in my area.

Brassicas in 45% of plot

Purple Top Turnips 3#
Dwarf Essex Rape 2#
GroundHog Forage radish 5#

Plant in mid to late July in most Midwest states, or 60-90 days before your first killing frost. Use 200#'s of 46-0-0 urea, 400#'s of 6-28-28 (or comparable such as 400#'s triple 19 ) Add lime per soil test. Follow the dead brassicas with 50#'s oats and 15-20#'s berseem and/or crimson clover in mid spring and no fertilizer is necessary at that time.

Cereal Grain combo in 45% of plot

Winter rye 50-80#'s per acre (56#'s = a bushel)
Spring oats 80-120#'s per acre (32#'s = a bushel)
Austrian Winter Peas or 4010/6040 Forage peas 20-80#'s per acre
Red Clover 8-12#'s per acre or white clover at 6#'s per acre
Groundhog Forage Radish 5#'s per acre

Plant in late August to early September, if following well fertilized brassicas only 100-200#'s of urea may be needed but first time plantings may need to be fertilized and limed as the noted for the brassicas.

Rotate the brassicas and rye combo each year
 
I just mowed my oats yesterday and they already were at the seed stage. Ifi want to plant brassicas in a month what should I do?
 
Do as I did and hope they germinate then retill or spray.

Without rain they may not germinate so if that is the case (and I fear it will be) simply spray the oats with 8-10 ounces of clethodim and 1 quart of crop oil per acre, once they emerge.

Clethodim online source

Hopefully we'll get a good soaking rain before then but it's not looking good...:rolleyes:

June 29th, 2012

There short season brassicas such as rape, turnips and radish and long seasons brassicas such as kale and swedes and here is an example of why I have chosen to stick with summer planted short season brassicas....

Weeds....I planted some kale and swede seed in May...just for fun but weeds are always a problem with spring plantings.

b2-3.jpg


Herbicides like Stinger and clethodim can help but I prefer to avoid crops that require herbicides if at all possible. Kale and swedes are 120-150 day brassicas while turnips, rape and radish are 60-90 day crops...perfect for mid summer planting, minus all the weed problems inherent with spring plantings.

b1-3.jpg


I planted those more as "an afterthought" then with any real plan and just "tilled and drilled" which made for poor germination due to rapid evaporation. We have had little rain and hot temps so results would have been better had I ran a cultipacker behind the tiller and then planted...something you'll want to be cognizant of with a drought encompassing much of the Midwest this summer.

In new fields that have not heretofore been in the rotation, I start in the spring with the oat/berseem/crimson mix...the same mix I follow dead/spent brassicas with and about this time I start dividing the field up into strips or blocks by mowing the oats off where the brassicas will be.

o1-2.jpg


Dividing the field exactly is not necessary so I usually just "eyeball it" although you may wish to use a GPS that figures area and lay it out closer. I divided this field into 6 strips of roughly an acre each...leaving a strip around the outside for white clover

o2-1.jpg


I have Egyptian Wheat dividing the field and running right up to a blind so one side will be the rye mix and the other brassicas and each year rotated

o3-1.jpg


I don't mow ALL the oats because we want oat seed in with our fall rye combo planting, however we do NOT want oats in with our brassicas...they would then become a weed, competing with the brassicas just like foxtail for nutrients, water and sunlight. Mowing the oats off, leaving the annual clovers to continue growing solves that problem. Note that at no time will deer ever be without a food sources....from the moment the oats came up in this field, it will have year around food sources....and year around deer activity because of it....

o9.jpg


Remember that the amounts of seed and fertilizer listed below are general guidelines and soil quality, precipitation and anticipated grazing pressure are all highly variable across the nation...cut back seed rates on poor soils with low deer densities or increase on productive soils with heavy deer grazing....

Plant ALL in one plot in strips or blocks

Alice, KopuII, Durana (or comparable) white clovers 10% of plot...plant with the rye mix below and soil test for needed P&K/lime requirements. Lacking a soil test I use 400#'s of 6-28-28 and 500#'s of pel lime in my area.

Brassicas in 45% of plot

Purple Top Turnips 3#
Dwarf Essex Rape 2#
GroundHog Forage radish 5#

Plant in mid to late July in most Midwest states, or 60-90 days before your first killing frost. Use 200#'s of 46-0-0 urea, 400#'s of 6-28-28 (or comparable such as 400#'s triple 19 ) Add lime per soil test. Follow the dead brassicas with 50#'s oats and 15-20#'s berseem and/or crimson clover in mid spring and no fertilizer is necessary at that time.

Cereal Grain combo in 45% of plot

Winter rye 50-80#'s per acre (56#'s = a bushel)
Spring oats 80-120#'s per acre (32#'s = a bushel)
Austrian Winter Peas or 4010/6040 Forage peas 20-80#'s per acre
Red Clover 8-12#'s per acre or white clover at 6#'s per acre
Groundhog Forage Radish 5#'s per acre

Plant in late August to early September, if following well fertilized brassicas only 100-200#'s of urea may be needed but first time plantings may need to be fertilized and limed as the noted for the brassicas.

Rotate the brassicas and rye combo each year
 
Brassicas- Type?

Paul, the only Brassicas that I can seem to find locally that aren't in a fancy bag ar the type called "soilbuster." I'm gonna provide a link to the description. Please tell me your thoughts and if they would do well in the brassic plot.

www.weaverseed.com/soilbuster.htm
 
Soilbuster is a type of daikon which is the same as Ground Hog Forage Radish. So yeah, that would work just fine. It's just one component of above from Paul but a great thing to plant.
 
I'd suggest just ordering from either Welters or Iowa-Missouri Hybrids, and having them ship to you. Both have very reasonable fees for shipping and this way you'll get exactly what you want.
 
I'd suggest just ordering from either Welters or Iowa-Missouri Hybrids, and having them ship to you. Both have very reasonable fees for shipping and this way you'll get exactly what you want.

True dat! And...I ordered some seed from Welter a couple of weeks ago and it was at my door the next day. They are very responsive, many companies could take a lesson from them!
 
Well I may just check on shipping the Groundhogs. I just have to go out and figure up how big the area is I am going to plant. Thanks guys
 
FYI . I just bought 12# of GHR from Welters,shipped to near St.Louis, cost a little under $50.00. The DER and PTT are available locally.
 
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Paul, if I am planning on planting turnips on the weekend of July 23 weather permiting (which most likely it will be at this rate) should I mow my berseem clover real short the weekend before the 23 so I can spread my fertilizer and till it in on the 23 when I also seed my plots? Thanks
 
Paul, if I am planning on planting turnips on the weekend of July 23 weather permiting (which most likely it will be at this rate) should I mow my berseem clover real short the weekend before the 23 so I can spread my fertilizer and till it in on the 23 when I also seed my plots? Thanks

You can do it before or the day of whatever works for you but if necessary you can broadcast fertilizer right into the berseem and till it all under, cultipack, seed, cultipack again....:way:
 
Paul,

I was considering mowing, fertilizing, tilling and then waiting to seed and cultipack until rain is in the forcast. Are you starting to plant at this point or holding out for moisture. Would brassica seeds tolerate just sitting there a few weeks. I don't know if there enough moisture to start germinating?? Thanks
 
Paul,

I was considering mowing, fertilizing, tilling and then waiting to seed and cultipack until rain is in the forcast. Are you starting to plant at this point or holding out for moisture. Would brassica seeds tolerate just sitting there a few weeks. I don't know if there enough moisture to start germinating?? Thanks

Brassica seeds are hard and will lay in dry soils for months if necessary and then will germinate with sufficient rainfall. Last year several fields layed there from July 15th til August 30th t and then came up when we got 2" of rainfall, however as with any seeds a little rain can spell doom as the seeds will germinate and then die from lack of moisture in the roost zone
 
Brassica seeds are hard and will lay in dry soils for months if necessary and then will germinate with sufficient rainfall. Last year several fields layed there from July 15th til August 30th t and then came up when we got 2" of rainfall, however as with any seeds a little rain can spell doom as the seeds will germinate and then die from lack of moisture in the roost zone

I can add a little insight about brassica seed laying dormant for a length of time before germinating and growing. Last summer, approximately Aug. 1, I broadcast forage radish in a bare dirt area that I had prepared and then it just never rained, so germination was poor to non-existant. That plot was a near failure at the time.

A few weeks ago, or approximately 10 months after that radish seed was sown, I disked this same area in preparation for planting a food plot this summer and guess what was there...a fair amount of nice, white forage radishes. So that seed laid dormant for many months before catching this spring. That is probably a lot longer than normal due to such dry weather and a mild winter.
 
10 months after that radish seed was sown,

Had some of that too Dave...;)

July 7th, 2012

In 2011 we suffered thru a very bad drought in SE Iowa, NE MO and central IL most of which received zero rainfall from June 28th to August 30th. Where brassicas were planted on low OM soils we go zero germination until it rained in late August and by then I had re-planted to the rye mix. On soils with 3.5-4.5% OM we got perhaps 60-70% germ and despite the complete lack of rainfall we had giant turnips and lush rape and radish plants.

In 2011 however we had plenty of snow in 2010/2011 winter and above average rainfall in May and June which meant we had some subsoil moisture. In 2011/2012 winter we had almost no snow, 80 degree temps in March and below average rainfall in May and June and that...combined with excessive heat in late June stretching into early July with temps at 98-101 every day we are facing a far more serious situation that is not confined to a small area but...much of the nation....

map_specnews09_ltst_4namus_enus_650x366.jpg


Normal July and August rainfall in our area is roughly 3 1/2" per month, more then sufficient to germinate and grow a healthy crop of brassicas but with already dry soils, little or no subsoil moisture, no rain will spell doom for any summer plantings this year.

Climatologists liken this year to both 2005 and 2006 droughts and with the La Nina out of the picture and neutral effects from the Pacific right now, they expect El Nino to strengthen, which if true would mean that as in 2006 we would get rainfall in August.

All of that however is pure speculation and being a "weather watcher" I have grown accustomed to the fact that only God knows when or if we will get rain and with 20% chance in the forecast we sometimes get 2-3" and with a 100% chance...get a sprinkle. So what does all of this mean in regards to planting brassica in mid July? What should we do? Will planting be a waste of time??

I only wish I had the answers to those questions...in my case I have talked to all of my client friends and discussed the options which are as follows...

1) Plant brassicas on time...if no rain/no or low germination - replant to the rye mix in late August
2) Delay planting until it does rain but waiting no longer then the 1st week of August beyond which cuts yields significantly
3) Skip brassica planting in 2012 and plant entire feeding area to the rye mix


Most have chosen to go with option 1,...if we don't get rain the fertilizer will still be intact and we'll simply re-plant the rye mix in August...if we do get rain they would rather reap the rewards of a brassica planting that will produce high yields and be most attractive during the fall and winter months.

Those on a limited budget however may choose option 3 knowing that the rye mix will likely germinate with very little moisture and that the odds of at least some fall rain are more likely then no rain at all between now and October!

If you are unable to locate brassica seed locally...here are a couple options where you can order seed by the pound and get exactly what you need shipped right to your door.

Brassica seed source

Aaron Palm at Iowa-Missouri Hybrids in Keosauqua Iowa will have both Tillage and Groundhog forage radishes and he can get the GHFR in treated seed that may have some advantages during this dry weather. Aaron and I have both tested both Tillage and GHFR and have found zero difference in the performance of the plants so I recommend purchasing whichever is the least expensive.

Aaron's cell is 641-919-1695 or the office # is 319-293-3114...they can even pre-mix the seeds if you wish and I don't think there is any charge for that service. He also carries a couple other varieties in addition to the standbys if you wish to try something slightly different then shown below.

There are lot's of seed sources so always check locally but in many areas of the country it is impossible to find small quantities of brassica seeds so it's nice to have options in those cases.

Starting the 16th of July....I'll be planting brassicas and praying for rain but some of you may find it wiser to just...pray.... ;)

Plant ALL in one plot in strips or blocks

Alice, KopuII, Durana (or comparable) white clovers 10% of plot...plant with the rye mix below and soil test for needed P&K/lime requirements. Lacking a soil test I use 400#'s of 6-28-28 and 500#'s of pel lime in my area.

Brassicas in 45% of plot

Purple Top Turnips 3#
Dwarf Essex Rape 2#
GroundHog Forage radish 5#

Plant in mid to late July in most Midwest states, or 60-90 days before your first killing frost. Use 200#'s of 46-0-0 urea, 400#'s of 6-28-28 (or comparable such as 400#'s triple 19 ) Add lime per soil test. Follow the dead brassicas with 50#'s oats and 15-20#'s berseem and/or crimson clover in mid spring and no fertilizer is necessary at that time.

Cereal Grain combo in 45% of plot

Winter rye 50-80#'s per acre (56#'s = a bushel)
Spring oats 80-120#'s per acre (32#'s = a bushel)
Austrian Winter Peas or 4010/6040 Forage peas 20-80#'s per acre
Red Clover 8-12#'s per acre or white clover at 6#'s per acre
Groundhog Forage Radish 5#'s per acre

Plant in late August to early September, if following well fertilized brassicas only 100-200#'s of urea may be needed but first time plantings may need to be fertilized and limed as the noted for the brassicas.

Rotate the brassicas and rye combo each year
 
Nitrogen and brassicas

When it comes to crops, soils and weather...there are always exceptions to every rule and no such thing as "it can't be done" but I don't deal in exceptions, but rather the majority of situations the average landowner will likely encounter. With that in mind lets talk about nitrogen and the fact that brassicas need it to thrive and produce lush, high quality forage and roots that can feed a large number of deer on a small amount of land.

Brassicas are like corn in that they hate competition from other plants, especially grasses and other weeds and they love water and nitrogen. Planted in mid summer weeds are less of a problem especially if the brassicas have plenty of nitrogen so that they will quickly canopy and smother annual grasses and broadleaves.

Now I have seen corn grown on rich, high organic matter soils with plenty of rain produce a great crop with no added nitrogen but again, that is the exception and the average landowner does not have these type of soils. Brassicas planted into those nutrient rich, black loam soils might produce a bumper crop with little or no added fertilizers but as of yet, in all my travels and planting on dozens of farms even here in Iowa...I have yet to actually encounter this, so we always add nitrogen to insure a great crop (assuming they get sufficient rainfall)

Nitrogen unfortunately does not last long, in any form and because of this it must be applied each and every year to feed crops such as brassicas and corn, part of which may come from killed legumes such as clovers, peas, vetches or alfalfa. In synthetic form it is most commonly available as urea but also as Ammonium nitrate and Ammonium sulfate, the latter two often being difficult to find and almost always more expensive. Urea is very volatile and in warm summer months it must be incorporated by either a minimum 1/2" of rain or by tillage within 24 hours of hitting the soil surface and sooner is better! Summer time storms are extremely unpredictable and it is all to common to have a forecast of 100% chance of an inch or more of rain and then get...nothing, so applying urea on the assumption that the forecast will be correct is not wise and in fact impracticable for the average landowner who may live hours from their property.

For this reason I always, always till in the urea (46-0-0 urea) at planting time and usually till in P&K at the same time although unlike nitrogen it is not necessary, tilling it in however does insure it is in the root zone rather then hoping for rainfall to move it there.

I have a no-till drill and could easily no-till plant the brassica seed but because it is imperative to incorporate the nitrogen I till in fertilizers, cultipack, plant (either with drill or broadcast) and if broadcast...I re-cultipack to cover the seed. While on occasion it can be successful, I have found that by and large attempting to take a shortcut leads to failure more often then not. Brassicas broadcast onto the soil surface, given enough rainfall will eventually germinate but lacking rainfall or enough moisture they may either not germinate at all or germinate and die...unable to get the tiny root to the moisture zone.

Each landowner must then, weigh the options given the soils and weather conditions they have to work with and decide which planting method will insure them the greatest degree of success but for me, conventional tillage kills two birds with one stone, allowing me to incorporate nitrogen and insure that the seeds are firmly in the soil rather then on top of it.

When soils are abnormally dry such as they are this year, be sure to cultipack immediately after tillage, regardless of what tillage tool you utilize.

cultipack2.jpg


A cultipacker helps conserve precious soil moisture by re-sealing the surface as well as making a firm seedbed in which to plant

cultipack.jpg


Proper planting and fertilization will help insure a great crop of brassicas that will be highly attractive to whitetails thru the fall and winter...

WelterMix.jpg


Shortcuts however may leave you with short, stunted, yellow, unattractive brassicas that will feed few deer and for a very limited time.

Hopefully you have a lush crop of clover to til under before planting your brassicas but if not, you may need to clip any weeds one more time before planting....allowing them to go to seed will be a regrettable decision as weed seeds can lay there for decades.

Mowingstubble.jpg


Annual weed seeds are laying in almost all soils that have ever been farmed even if it has been 20-30 years, spraying them will not help as a zillion more are waiting to come up, all they need is a little breathing room! Healthy thick clovers like white or red clover will generally suffocate weed seedlings and they won't be a problem but without the clovers....be prepared to mow as necessary before planting your brassicas!
 
Paul, I ran out of beans so I planted 2 acres of extra ghfr in mid June and germinated late June, what's my best options to keep it and hope its a good fall and winter plot? Or disc it in and do your rye combo? Thanks!
 
Paul, I ran out of beans so I planted 2 acres of extra ghfr in mid June and germinated late June, what's my best options to keep it and hope its a good fall and winter plot? Or disc it in and do your rye combo? Thanks!

I would keep it as long as it doesnt go to seed, you can always overseed rye in it in late August
 
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