goatman
I hunt days ending in Y
Yep. I broadcast some last week on ground that was just killed(caveman version of no-till) and they were coming up. Good luck. Did some tilling yesterday what a mud bowl. Hope it dries some today.
Yep. I broadcast some last week on ground that was just killed(caveman version of no-till) and they were coming up. Good luck. Did some tilling yesterday what a mud bowl. Hope it dries some today.
DeerHunter3
Member
Excellent! Makes me feel a lot better about things! Looks like we should have plenty of rain Friday thru Sunday.
loneranger
Well-Known Member
I broadcast some radish and turnip 10 days ago into roundup burned weeds and grass,which was wet and rained on top . Couple areas came good. Other not so good but this week I actually had 4 and a half dry days in a row! I got those spots tilled and seeded before the end of my 4 day dry spell. Inch yesterday,3/4 last night. Bingo! I got ahead of the weather with that! My favorite area however I tilled two wks ago. Let it stand expecting it to dry some and too early to seed. It never dried and I had to plant in the mud-broadcast on top . It came up but waiting ,,so did weeds. Oh well, just deer food anyway not a lively hood. I feel sorry for those trying to make one around here, and down in MO, where about all the counties in the state have been declared disaster areas!
Rain ain't gonna hurt a thing unless it was to the extent it literally washed fertilizer away or lime. Which, on surface, I suppose it sure is possible with enough rain but I doubt it's common.
the Nitrogen in your fertilizer, you better have had rain within 24 hours. The N part of the #'s.... 13-13-13, N-P-K in other terms, the 1st 13 is the Nitrogen is the most important by far for brassicas and the one most likely to go by-by from not preparing right. N fertilizer is an encapsulated GAS so it will literally evaporate within 24 hours if not covered (disced in, tilled, whatever) or good amount of rain. Not the case with P-K or lime.
Reminder, whatever the # is... It's a PERCENTAGE of what's actually there per 100 lbs. So, 13-0-0 for example VS 46-0-0.... You literally would have to put about 3 times as many lbs of 13-0-0 to equal what 46-0-0 puts out for N. (46-0-0 is Urea and the most concentrated form of dry N). 13-13-13 for example is simply a fertilizer that's filled with mainly filler that doesn't do anything. Just pay attention to the # and consider it a % of actual. What you ACTUALLY put down is what is important, not the amount of lbs you put down because 2 different bags of fertilizer are not created equal.
Without a soil test, ACTUAL, what I'd want down ACTUAL (remember, 46-0-0 is only 46 lbs of N for each 100 applied) would be around 150-100-100 if you can afford it. P&K at this point are mainly going to be for subsequent years as most won't break down this season but I'd include. N shows the fastest & biggest benefit to plants but over time, missing on P&K, wrong PH's (add lime if called for) & even things like micronutrients (to a smaller scale, especially if you're doing Dbltree rotation) - all this will have huge long term impacts to your plots. Proper fertilizer and step following (Plus weather that cooperates, etc) = excellent plants & plots. Skimping or skipping fertilizers = crummy plots, little brassicas, ill colored brassicas and stunted growth that often all goes to waste. Do it right. Plant it right, follow the steps, put in the proper fertilizers and amounts, you will not regret it.
the Nitrogen in your fertilizer, you better have had rain within 24 hours. The N part of the #'s.... 13-13-13, N-P-K in other terms, the 1st 13 is the Nitrogen is the most important by far for brassicas and the one most likely to go by-by from not preparing right. N fertilizer is an encapsulated GAS so it will literally evaporate within 24 hours if not covered (disced in, tilled, whatever) or good amount of rain. Not the case with P-K or lime.
Reminder, whatever the # is... It's a PERCENTAGE of what's actually there per 100 lbs. So, 13-0-0 for example VS 46-0-0.... You literally would have to put about 3 times as many lbs of 13-0-0 to equal what 46-0-0 puts out for N. (46-0-0 is Urea and the most concentrated form of dry N). 13-13-13 for example is simply a fertilizer that's filled with mainly filler that doesn't do anything. Just pay attention to the # and consider it a % of actual. What you ACTUALLY put down is what is important, not the amount of lbs you put down because 2 different bags of fertilizer are not created equal.
Without a soil test, ACTUAL, what I'd want down ACTUAL (remember, 46-0-0 is only 46 lbs of N for each 100 applied) would be around 150-100-100 if you can afford it. P&K at this point are mainly going to be for subsequent years as most won't break down this season but I'd include. N shows the fastest & biggest benefit to plants but over time, missing on P&K, wrong PH's (add lime if called for) & even things like micronutrients (to a smaller scale, especially if you're doing Dbltree rotation) - all this will have huge long term impacts to your plots. Proper fertilizer and step following (Plus weather that cooperates, etc) = excellent plants & plots. Skimping or skipping fertilizers = crummy plots, little brassicas, ill colored brassicas and stunted growth that often all goes to waste. Do it right. Plant it right, follow the steps, put in the proper fertilizers and amounts, you will not regret it.
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arm
Leg
Good to hear about the rain impact and yes, rain was 1 hour after putting it down with a subsequent rain coming within 24 hrs as well. As far as the amount of fertilizer I needed, I used the triple 13 to get VERY close to the recommendation following the soil test. The extra nitrogen application will be done here in a bit I hope (suggested to follow my initial application so I'm just using that). I'm still at least 2 weeks out from seeding I feel. I appreciate the response
A dozen different sayings out there with a little spread on the date. Most go "rain or shine, July 29" & that's fairly accurate. Northern IOWA- to be ideal- July 20 to August 5. Southern Iowa, could bump out 5 days different. I mean, u can put em in August 10 and u will be just fine. I'd simply put more N down & a slightly lighter seed rate. I guess if I had to say, I'd shoot for ASAP and I'd do all I could to get em in ground by August 5 but if u went past that- still be ok most likely. Each day just diminishing size & potential. I really like purple top turnips - better later than radish but love radish for oct & nov. if u have a prefernence towards radish- they will grow faster & can plant slightly later than turnips, just an FYI. Still say do all ASAP if able though.
risto2351
Well-Known Member
Thanks Skip.
I was hoping to put them in this weekend but the farmer won't be able to get his oats out until next week. I have to drive on his oats to get to where I want to plant. Always something.
DeerHunter3
Member
With all this rain this week and brassica's planted on 6/18. Do you think they will be drowned out or thriving? We did not have much rain on them the first week but the last couple of days have yielded about 3" of rain. Thoughts?
DeerHunter3
Member
It was 7/18
skyleralan
PMA Member
Just to be safe, you can spray brassicas at any point, correct? Again, I can tell grasses are/will be a problem. I want to toast them before they get tall! Was going to go with 16oz of clethodim, what is recommended crop oil amount? Will be running through my trusty 4gal backpack sprayer and sweating like hell! I figure this will cover half the plot then hit the other half with same concentrate.
UPDATE:
After reading I decided to go with a surfactant instead of crop oil. I don't want to take a chance in burning my brassicas too early since most have just germinated in the past week or so. Anyone have any mix ratios when using a herbicide surfactant?
UPDATE:
After reading I decided to go with a surfactant instead of crop oil. I don't want to take a chance in burning my brassicas too early since most have just germinated in the past week or so. Anyone have any mix ratios when using a herbicide surfactant?
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Crop oil is not going to burn your plants unless you apply in full sun in middle of the day. Different types of crop oils out there, some are hotter than others, read the labels on each kind find yourself with.
Clethodim is a very safe herbicide... I personally have never seen injury to even young plants but that's not to say it couldn't happen. It's a lot safer than many other herbicides out there. I run it heavy.... 16-20 oz per acre. I don't like a backpack sprayer because it's hard to get an even spray and takes so long BUT clethodim is the exception - it's nice because you can soak the grasses in your plots a little heavier as you see clumps. if you see areas with no grass, you can skip them with backpack sprayer. Nice to be able to adjust your spray based on what you actually see on the ground. I don't use BP sprayers anymore but on a smaller scale, that would be a nice option.
So, bottom line: 16-20 oz clethodim per acre, crop oil from rate on that exact label you are using (not all crop oils are the same).... Avoid hot, full sun midday sprayings. I "usually" spray clethodim on brassicas about 2-ish weeks after germination or if I notice a massive flush of grass at any point. I've had a rare occasion where brassicas needed 2 sprayings with clethodim but usually not. If you have volunteer rye or something, you probably will need 2 sprayings. 1 in most cases is sufficient.
Clethodim is a very safe herbicide... I personally have never seen injury to even young plants but that's not to say it couldn't happen. It's a lot safer than many other herbicides out there. I run it heavy.... 16-20 oz per acre. I don't like a backpack sprayer because it's hard to get an even spray and takes so long BUT clethodim is the exception - it's nice because you can soak the grasses in your plots a little heavier as you see clumps. if you see areas with no grass, you can skip them with backpack sprayer. Nice to be able to adjust your spray based on what you actually see on the ground. I don't use BP sprayers anymore but on a smaller scale, that would be a nice option.
So, bottom line: 16-20 oz clethodim per acre, crop oil from rate on that exact label you are using (not all crop oils are the same).... Avoid hot, full sun midday sprayings. I "usually" spray clethodim on brassicas about 2-ish weeks after germination or if I notice a massive flush of grass at any point. I've had a rare occasion where brassicas needed 2 sprayings with clethodim but usually not. If you have volunteer rye or something, you probably will need 2 sprayings. 1 in most cases is sufficient.
loneranger
Well-Known Member
How much does this clethodim cost? And what can you do about Purslain> Not sure of spelling. A ground clinging succulent weed.
loneranger
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that. Otta my pricerange for my little plots. Guess Ill get out the hoe! I figured some price like that .
DeerHunter3
Member
Damn rain wiped most of this plot out! Good thing I planted early and can re seed the spots that had water sitting on them. No doubt the ground will have moisture for the new seed.
The one spot that did not have water the brassicas are coming in well, a little spotty but I would imagine it will fill out in the weeks to come.
The one spot that did not have water the brassicas are coming in well, a little spotty but I would imagine it will fill out in the weeks to come.