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The clover test area shown here contains 4 different white clovers from three different sources....note how uniform they are and really nearly impossible to tell the difference.

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All great clovers, some of which are used in Sucraseeds High Sugar ryegrass mix. They are lush and healthy thanks to soils improved with fertilizer, lime and crop rotations, established with winter rye in late August...leaving them relatively weed free.

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What more could deer want?

Clover on poor soils that has not received appropriate P&K and PH corrections will do poorly and will certainly respond to almost anything that is applied including nitrogen this time of year. Healthy clovers however are busy fixing their own nitrogen and certainly do not need additional N applied.

There is the theory however that applying N to legumes this time of year will some how make them more attractive to whitetails, something I have tested in the past and found this not to be the case. That said...it's always fun to try little experiments and test these theories again.

Because I divide all my plots so that they have 1/3 clover, 1/3 brassicas and 1/3 cereal grains it easy to go cross-ways with nitrogen and then see if the treated areas receive more attention then the untreated ones?

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There are several oft overlooked aspects of food sources that are far and away more important then trying to "sweeten" them with nitrogen.

1) Provide food sources YEAR AROUND...not just during hunting season! This means you need multiple food sources planted at different times of the year.

2) Do NOT plant the whole field to one crop! I always hear of someone who says "I have 8 acres of clover planted"!! :shock:

3) Plant your food sources in safe secure areas on your farm that allow you to hunt travel corridors to them rather then hunting the plots themselves. That may require planting screens such as Egyptian Wheat or sorghum while establishing long term screens via conifers and shrubs.

White clovers are very prolific and it takes only small amounts to keep deer fed and despite claims by big name "buck on a bag" seed companies any good healthy white clover (or combination of whites and reds) will attract and hold deer. In this case they are feeding on these clovers despite being right beside standing soybeans.

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Deer adapt to living in safe bedding areas and feeding in safe feeding areas so are unlikely to come from "miles around" to get to your clover just because you attempt to "sweeten" them with nitrogen.

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Trail cams tell a story, they tell the truth about what is happening, which food sources they are feeding on and if they choose one over another. No flash IR cams keep an eye on deer without alarming them and models such as the Scoutguard, Bushnell and Covert cams can now last up to a year and hold 10,000 pics on 16G cards so even if you live hundreds of miles from your property, you can have a record of how and when your food sources are being utilized.

Note here that is this plot was planted to only one crop...it would be for a time "bare" as the center strip appears here...where do you suppose deer would be during that time? Not here that's for certain!

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While I plant 1/3 of my plots to clover (where I use a brassica, clover, cereal grain rotation) far less then that is actually needed in most cases. Most white clovers are aggressive and require frequent mowing and that in and of itself tells us we have more then what we need to provide a spring through early fall food source. My clover then is used as a soil building tool, a source of tons of organic mater and up to 200#'s of nitrogen per acre when killed for the next crop.

The only exception to that is the clover marketed by WTI because it is not an aggressive clover and is easily eaten to the ground and just another reason I choose not to plant it. Most white clovers in the $3-5 a pound range will provide high quality, high protein forage and if soil nutrient levels are up to snuff, I think you'll find that no additional N will be required... ;)
 
Since there are still some folks unfamiliar with the grass selective herbicide "clethodim" I'd like to cover a few things on the subject..

Why use Clethodim (Select 2-EC, Arrow, Shadow etc.) versus Sethoxydim (Poast and Poast Plus)??

Here's just a couple comments from some years back on the subject:

Do you get better results with Select? I sprayed the max rate with Poast Plus and didn't kill any grasses. I'm getting ready to clip it and try again in a few days. I sprayed back when the grasses were 6".

That comment I have heard more times then I can count from frustrated landowners applying Poast or Arrest (sold by WTI). While it is possible to kill some grasses sometimes Sethoxydim is just by and large a very ineffective product compared to Clethodim which brings responses such as this:

Select (clethodim) will kill the fire out of grasses and will not touch your clover if used at the recommended rates. We use 10-12 oz/acre on most sites and the results are amazing.

You can mix this with 2-4 DB to get broadleaves as well. The DB WILL cause varying amounts of burn on the legumes but they bounce back great if growing conditions are decent.

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It's imperative that both clethodim and sethoxydim be used with crop oil and if applied correctly thus far I have yet to hear of anyone being dissatisfied with clethodim.

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It takes roughly 10-14 days for a complete kill but the kill will be complete and I have had 100% success spring, summer and fall regardless of grass maturity. The most effective method is spray when grasses have plenty of leaf showing so if you mow fist always allow time for the grass to regrow before spraying.

I always try hard to test things thoroughly before recommending products to others and I have put clethodim to the test for a number of years now...

Before clethodim

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After applying 10 ounces of clethodim and one quart of crop oil per acre

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I tested it on our flowers

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and vegetables

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and in every case the broadleaf plants remained healthy and vibrant while every blade of grass of kind ended up 100% dead...no if's, and's or maybes'...

Regular crop oil runs usually less then $20 while concentrated crop oil is closer to $50 and requires only a quart per 100 gallons of solution. Apply one quart of the concentrated crop oil can cause severe burning so be sure to read the label.

The label lists a long long list of crops and plants that clethodim is safe on and that includes everything from clover to alfalfa, soybeans to brassicas making clethodim a great choice for landowners.

Clethodim Label

If your local ag co-op doesn't have clethodim on hand they can probably order it but here is a great online source where clethodim is priced very reasonably.

Clethodim source

Clethodim....safe, effective and inexpensive....give it a try for you grass control needs.... :way:
 
White clovers are a valuable asset to most habitat programs, providing a source of feed that is high in digestible protein from spring to fall, it's dependable and helps build up soils while it feeds our deer and providing nitrogen for the next crop when killed as well.

Sometimes however to much emphasis is placed on clover and it's ability to attract and hold whitetails. Anyone who hunts at all has picked up an outdoor magazine with advertisements about the clover offered by Whitetail Institute, Biologic and Tecomate....all fine companies with quality seed. Extensive advertising is expensive however and those costs get passed on to the consumer....hunter landowners....

The clover seed offered by companies focusing marketing seed to hunters then is expensive, often times beyond the budget of many and the question is asked...do I need that expensive seed to attract and hold whitetails??

At this point I would remind everyone that while the "names" are trademarked none of these companies have patented any clover seed...something that is expensive and requires a great deal of proof that it is indeed better/different. That being said...these companies are free to add or subtract any clover seed they wish at anytime that means you are never buying A clover, you are buying a blend of clover seeds that can be different year to year and often the blend include many inexpensive annual clovers such as berseem, which while useful only lasts one season.

Here's an example of IWC for instance....note that almost 70% of what you are buying is either berseem clover or seed coating and NOT white clover itself!

32.46% Wina Brand Berseem Clover
15.92% Advantage Ladino Clover
8.66% Insight Ladino Clover
8.62% Wina Brand Ladino Clover
33.80% Seed Coating
When you buy a specific clover such as KopuII, Durana, Alice, Patriot (and the list goes on) you are buying a specific clover bred for specific situation and conditions. Durana for instance bred to withstand impossibly dry conditions in the south east and Alice bred to aggressively recover from intense grazing and trampling also under dry and difficult conditions in the midwest and northern areas.

The Advantage clover in the IWC mix is a very palatable clover that deer do indeed readily forage on but it is neither aggressive nor drought resistant and can easily be eaten to the ground. Because I have planted all of these clovers side by side using Alice as the test by which to compare them I know how deer react to them and while they will eat all the clovers being tested, they easily decimate Advantage even though it is well fertilized.

Under drought conditions Alice and Durana are the only two that survived and even thrived so that is an important consideration.

Now...people are often convinced that they must plant a clover mix such as IWC because deer may seem to focus on it but if you remove that clover entirely from the equation, deer will then focus on whatever clover is planted there.

2 years ago in this same spot there was IWC planted side by side with Alice clover and while deer fed heavily on both they eventually ate the IWC to the ground.

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One could assume two things...deer liked the Advantage clover but it's also a fact that it was incapable of standing up to heavy grazing.

Here's the crux of the matter however...now, IWC is gone and replaced by clovers from Grassland Oregon and Alice and yet the deer did not stop feeding there, they simply ate whatever white clovers I planted there.

Note the one thing that it seems every landowner forgets....these deer are hidden, they feel safe feeding here with lot's of natural cover and screening and that is FAR more important to them then which clover they are feeding on.

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As I have stated repeatedly these test plots are planted literally feet away from standing soybeans and only yards away from corn and alfalfa so if deer did not like these clovers they have no reason to be eating them...but obviously they love them!

Both bucks...

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and doe groups...

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It is not my intention to diss the good folks at any of the companies mentioned nor to berate anyone who chooses to plant them but rather to make everyone more aware of what is really important. Deer do prefer certain food types at certain times such as standing beans in December but they are opportunistic foragers that will feed on whatever food source allows them to feed safely.

Where deer populations are heavy they may choose large fields simply because doe groups are not tolerate of one another, so a small plot may have 6 deer and a large field may have 60....that doesn't mean the large field has the food source they prefer but rather it's a safe place where they can feed with out crowding.

Choose the clover that you feel is right for you, one that will grow well on your soils and your weather conditions and concentrate more on your natural cover and screening because a hidden field right beside a dense secure bedding area will trump almost any other situation...regardless of what you plant.... :way:
 
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6-7 weeks ago was the last time that I checked my 1 acre clover plot, at that time it was thick, full and I thought that I would need to get out and clip it down before hunting season came around. I went out this week for the first time since then and my plot is gone. Here in NW Ohio we have not had much if any rain in that time, did my thick lush clover die off or have the deer hammered it that hard in the last 6-7 weeks. I found signs of deer, such a droppings and a few tracks (hard to get tracks in drought ridden clay) My other question is will the clover make a come back or is it done and need to be replanted? Thanks
 
Thanks dbltree, it is an established plot, I was leaning towards the fact that the deer ate the clover because there were no wilted/dead plants on the ground. I will update if/when the rains com back.
 
I planted the High Sugar ryegrass/clover mix "Sweet Spot" in a travel corridor in mid summer but incessant rains nearly wiped it out. I thought for a time it was all for naught but when i checked on it on October I see that it survived.

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The High Sugar ryegrass is unique and SucraSEED™ is the only company that has this seed which is neither here nor there if deer don't eat it, but they not only eat it but seem to seek it out. For that reason I felt the SS mix would be an attractive food source to help coax deer down the funnel.

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It looked like this when I finished planting the SS and Egyptian Wheat in July

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and looks like this in mid October

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I used the SS between the shrubs and EW to funnel them right up to a natural runway that leads into a natural bottleneck

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Don't have any trail cams on this one but some one left a "mark"...

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I don't hunt this spot till the rut but I have a good feeling about this setup... ;)
 
I know it's getting late (I'm in South Carolina) but I have my clover coming Monday. I have 40 acres of MaxQ pasture I am over-seeding. I found this site right AFTER I placed my order so no Alice clover for me. I have 75lb of Durana, 75lb of Advantage Lando, and 200 pounds of Kenland Red on the way.

My soils are silt and clay loam and my soil test came in great with PH between 6.3 and 6.7 with P & K recommendation of 40 pounds per acre of each. One soil sample called for 40 lb of P with no K and the other came in with no P and 40 lb of K.

My MaxQ is a bit thin in places so I was going to broadcast seed it in places at the same time as the clover. I'm sure I did not order enough for the amount of reseeding I have to do on that front. Do you think the new fescue will be able to inter-seed with the new clover?

Late last night and earlier today I came across some interesting research from the University of Kentucky, College of Agriculture and wanted to ask if anyone has had any experience with "Will Ladino" from Allied Seed, L.L.C.

The Will variety seemed to outperform pretty much everything else in the trials that the university conducted including Alice and Durana.
http://www.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/pr/pr590/pr590.pdf

You can review studies and trials going back to 2004 for red and white clovers and even farther back for red clovers by following this link http://www.uky.edu/Ag/Forage/ForageVarietyTrials2.htm

Anyway we have had little to no rain for over 90 days up until about 2 weeks ago. More rain is in the forecast for the end of next week so I am planning on getting my clover in by mid week.

My method of planting is to run across it with a chain drag harrow (aggressive mode with an old tractor tire on top for added weight) - broadcast with an ATV spreader then flip the drag over, put the tire back on and drag it again.

My MaxQ is REALLY short at the moment due to the little rain and my cows eating it down. Total height - less than 2 inches unfortunately (I see feeding a LOT of hay this winter).

I was considering also sowing some Oasis Chicory this spring - could I sow it now - should I frost seed it - or should I spring seed it between Mid May - Mid April?

I am considering getting a bag of Alice and a bag of Will clover and run some trials. My extension agency already told me I should plant some test plots of pure stands of each clover to see how they perform so I will know what success I am having with each so next time I buy what works best.

Oh while I AM carrying my gun around my property right now I really don't expect to see any deer as I don't have much in the way of deer attracting forage on my property. Next year I hope to change that.

Sorry for the long first post.
 
I was considering also sowing some Oasis Chicory this spring - could I sow it now - should I frost seed it - or should I spring seed it between Mid May - Mid April?

All of those are good options so I would sow it whenever you sow your clover.

Will is a great clover also so your extension agent was correct....try various varieties and see which one performs best for you on your soils and climate.

Let us know what you find out...:way:
 
Thanks for the feedback - the site has been very informative. Clover came in yesterday but so did the rain that I was hoping was coming at the end of the week after I got the clover in.

So - new plan..
Drag pasture aggressive to open up the thatch exposing the soil and fill the hoof impressions a bit.
broadcast MaxQ
broadcast Chicory
Drag pasture moderate to cover the seed a bit.
cultipack - firm up the ground for good seed to soil contact
broadcast Clover
cultipack - push the clover seed into the soil
keep cattle off the pasture for the next 30 days after emergence.

More rain is forecast sometime next week along with a few low 80 / high 70 days.

Hopefully everything will germinate and establish well!

I'm not sure when I should fertilize - what I have read leads me to believe that fertilizer can kill the clover inoculate (don't remember where I saw this) so I'm not sure spreading it when planting is a good idea so I was planning on doing it 4-6 weeks after. I was thinking of using something like a 5-20-20 @ 200lb per acre.
 
November 8th, 2010

Some clover updates...

Strip clover along timbered ares doesn't always work well, especially on dry soils but mine have done very well and deer being creatures of the edge follow them like a puppy on a string!

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The nitrogen fertilized test plots have yielded no difference in activity, grazing or growth...when it comes to clovers, use P&K when soil tests warrant it but save the nitrogen for crops that really need it!

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Early November and deer are still hammering the white clover despite lots of feed from harvested crops and other plot crops

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This ole boy seems to concur that clover can be a might attractive food source well into November...

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I never rely solely on clovers but they are an extremely useful and important tool in and whitetail habitat program.... :way:
 
There was a time when I really wasn't a huge fan of white clover just because deer seemed to run right through it to get to freshly harvested crop fields...kind of hard to avoid that problem here in Iowa! They still love the grain fields for certain but by providing year around food sources next to safe thick bedding sanctuaries, deer have adapted and chow down on the clover despite the fact it is literally beside the harvested grain fields.

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I watched this young buck from my stand and he spent an easy 30 minutes feeding in the clover

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Clover plantings can and should be limited to a fraction of the over all food sources depending on deer density but having a portion in clover insures that deer will have a supply of uninterrupted feed from early April until late November in my area.

Temps have dropped down into the lower teens several times now and that really wilted the clover and brassicas.

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The trail cam will allow us to see if preference shifts to the rye strips as the weather worsens and just exactly how long they will utilize the clover after hard freezes wilt it but I have seen them dig through the snow to get at the tender clover plants.... ;)
 
If I buy Alice White clover for frost seeding this winter and bought enough for my September plantings, would it be ok? Or is it a bad idea to have it sit on the shelf for 9 months before planting? How quickly does it go bad if stored?

Just trying to save a few bucks in shipping by placing 1 order in February vs having to place 2 orders...
 
With 8 inches of powder this last weekend they were hitting the clover
the most out of all my food plots. Actually shot two in the one plot Sat. night.

The brassicas, gfr, rye and turnips were hardly even touched.

May change as the time wears on but getting tired of putting brassicas and turnips out and the deer so much as not even touching them during the winter.
 
This time of year I hear a wide range of reports ranging from "Deer never touch my clover" to "Clover is the only thing my deer eat" with 95% of landowners experiencing something in between. Usually those who feel deer are not eating it have way too much clover and few deer so grazing is not readily noticeable and there are often other factors such as better cover next to other great food sources such as soybeans or corn on the neighbors place.

It's not at all uncommon for deer to feed readily on white clover but turn up their noses at brassicas, again when there are lower deer densities and plenty of food sources. Landowners need to adjust the amount of clover planted to match the grazing needs of their whitetail herd utilizing their property and usually less is better. A little patch of clover will feed a lot of deer and small otherwise unused areas, corners, field edges borders and such can be planted to white clover including funnels created with shrub and conifer or Egyptian Wheat.

White clover is pretty versatile and inexpensive to plant so it should be a part of every habitat program....just don't make it the only part because it cannot sustain deer through the winter months as winter rye can.

My clover here in SE Iowa has been frozen repeatedly and with lows forecast to drop to minus 2 it's usefulness is now limited

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For now though it is still seeing heavy use

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and probably will until it is browned by the extreme cold

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even then deer will often dig through the snow to search for the tender green morsels under the dead thatch

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You don't need anything fancy or expensive...most good quality white clovers will do the trick and help you adapt deer to using your property year around when used in conjunction with winter hardy cereals like winter rye.... ;)
 
December 25,2010

White clover is certainly a versatile crop that can provide high quality forage for most of the year and even though frozen to the ground it's still an attractive food source in December.

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and they are not afraid to dig through the snow after it and I have 3 different varieties all getting hit equally.

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They go back and forth between the clover and rye

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but every time it snows there is obvious evidence that they have been digging for the clover

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No need for 20 acres of it because a little goes along way, but every landowner could do well to have a percentage of their food sources in the ever dependable white clover.... :way:
 
A few days ago...with no snow on the ground deer grazed in the winter rye and completely ignored both the white clover and standing soybean/milo plot. Cover the ground with snow however and it was a very different story!

They spent hours furiously scratching in the Alice White Clover plots

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and they weren't alone!

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Why not eat it when it was exposed??? I have not the answers to that question but the fact that I offer multiple food sources in one centrally located field keeps them adapted to traveling to it, regardless of which option trips their trigger on any given day. I only have 2 small areas of white clover but it's amazing how many deer that Alice clover can feed! There are plenty of white clover options but Alice performs at the top of the list up here where the temps can drop down to minus 20 in the winter and climb to 100+ in the summer!

Creating better habitat just adds to my outdoor pleasure and really allows me to experience God's blessings all year long rather then just a few months of hunting season. Photography has become another enjoyable element to capture both wildlife and habitat scenes...forever!

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Great way to relive each hunt and over time keep track of various habitat improvements

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A bobcat slipped along the NWSG and back in before I could get the camera on him...some things are just "captured" in my mind.... :way:
 
January 12th, 2011

A while back I took a couple closeups of Alice white clover when the snow was off...don't look like much

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Little green foliage left

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when the snow covers the ground however it's really obvious how much they still forage on the clover!

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This set of pictures reveals they spend time in both the clover and the rye strips

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In this pic....deer in the foreground are feeding on one of the main clovers used in the Sweet Spot High Sugar ryegrass mix, deer in the background are feeding on the winter rye/pea/radish mix and deer in the background left side are feeding on the Sweet Spot mix itself.

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In this field I photographed these deer while muzzleloader hunting with snow on and off and here deer were focusing on the Alice white clover that again is frozen to the ground.

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When the snow piled up they just got busy and scraped furiously to get at the Alice clover

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He'll be a looker next year!

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as will this one...and well adapted to finding year around food sources in my safe secure feeding areas

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I counted as many as 54 deer in this feeding area yet I have at best a 1/4 of Alice white clover....a little goes a long ways and has helped kept them fed since the first hint of spring right on through until mid January! Always room for a little white clover on any piece of property so don't forget this great tool as a part of your habitat program! :way:
 
I know this stinks without pictures BUT I saw my clover patches which DID have snow on them- the whole field is tore up and snow is GONE on the clover, looks like they are TEARING it apart and shredding the land- this year is a stellar year for my Alice White and even red clover. Right where clover stops there's perfect snow covered ground they could care less about. What I did is- I had several 2 acre clover plots I wanted to put in other food. In each of those locations, I left about 1/4 to 1/2 acre of the clover to leave some variety, converted the rest to something different BUT I'm always gonna leave a patch of it.
*Those are some DANDY bucks in those pics, a few are real studs!!
 
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I know this stinks without pictures BUT I saw my clover patches which DID have snow on them- the whole field is tore up and snow is GONE on the clover, looks like they are TEARING it apart and shredding the land- this year is a stellar year for my Alice White and even red clover. Right where clover stops there's perfect snow covered ground they could care less about. What I did is- I had several 2 acre clover plots I wanted to put in other food. In each of those locations, I left about 1/4 to 1/2 acre of the clover to leave some variety, converted the rest to something different BUT I'm always gonna leave a patch of it.
*Those are some DANDY bucks in those pics, a few are real studs!!

We need to get you a camera Skip...;):D
 
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