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Edge Feathering and bedding areas

I believe what you guys are saying but it seems like I see more turkeys in areas that I can see along ways in, than in the really brushy areas?

For me, just about the opposite. My theory is that turks will hang up more in an open woods because they cannot see what they hear.

Over the years I hunted one farm about 15 years in a row and one half of the timber had cattle in it, yes, it was quite open:), and the other half had no cattle and consequently more brush, etc. The only thing separating them was a line fence down the middle, which BTW was a darn good place to sit. :grin: It was the same block of timber though.

There were probably twice as many turks on the brushy side day in and day out as the open side. I have made other similar observations over the years, but this one seemed pretty clear to me.
 
For me, just about the opposite. My theory is that turks will hang up more in an open woods because they cannot see what they hear.

Over the years I hunted one farm about 15 years in a row and one half of the timber had cattle in it, yes, it was quite open:), and the other half had no cattle and consequently more brush, etc. The only thing separating them was a line fence down the middle, which BTW was a darn good place to sit. :grin: It was the same block of timber though.

There were probably twice as many turks on the brushy side day in and day out as the open side. I have made other similar observations over the years, but this one seemed pretty clear to me.

Daver,

I definitely believe you.

On my land I just seen to see more turkeys in a couple of areas than in my really messy areas.

At my buddies place same thing.
 
I gained access to a new farm this past year and while it has many high-points, it also was in need of alot of work. Paul has asked for anybody who has done any timber work to post photos, so here are some.

The majority of timber looks like this, some oaks, walnuts and cherry-but also ALOT of ironwood, Hickory and Shingle Oaks-classic hinged trees :)
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A Few more shots of the wildlife "unfriendly" woods :)

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While there was a good amount of deer here, it was almost impossible to have any strcture to hunt with consistency and hardly ever did I jump a deer in this timber. But the sign showed they are here...
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So, in baby steps, we plan on drastically changing:
1-The holding potential of the timber
2-To decrease competition for the oaks
3_ Create bedding cover as well as funnels to hunt more effectively

Here is an Ironwood being hinged by my buddy Don
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And an action shot of a Hickory going down (who needs Sportscenter with highlights like these?)
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My Father-in-law even got in on the action...and loved it!
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Soon-a "living fence" began to form running the length of the draw, with about 40 yards of Briar Rabbit habitat behind it...
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As you can see-alot of open timber remains behind what we did so we'll have to keep at it.

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Lots more work to do but Ill try to keep updated on progress here :)
 
Lookin' good Eyad!! Thanks for sharing the progress pics and be sure to take pics over the next few years as the area starts to re-grow! You can post them along with the monster buck you shoot in that funnel...:way: :)
 
That does look great Eyad!!! I am doing the same thing this weekend. Got 2 suckers... I mean buddies to help me this weekend! :) I usually would ALWAYS wait til after season but with this weather we'll be getting some done. I don't want to be so overwhelmed come later- I have 100 acres of TSI to do and 100 acres of NWSG's to seed so an early start is nice. We'll just hunt on other side of farm that night and won't affect deer anyways. I've gone through 4+ gallons of red marking paint already SO the plan is laid out pretty well. The Dbltree game plan will again be put into action.
 
Thanks guys. Did a bunch more yesterday and starting to take shape. Crazy thick now.

However, on a side note, I almost 'bought the farm' as a tree jack-knifed and came the other way on me. I ran but wasnt fast enough and the branch whacked me in back of the head.

I had a fist sized lump and was out for a few seconds but just sore today.

STUPID STUPID STIPUD but was lucky to tell this tale. No helmet-just stupid.

No other word for it.

Where helmets and girdle the big stuff. Just not worth it..in the dog house with my wife now :(
 
Thanks guys. Did a bunch more yesterday and starting to take shape. Crazy thick now.

However, on a side note, I almost 'bought the farm' as a tree jack-knifed and came the other way on me. I ran but wasnt fast enough and the branch whacked me in back of the head.

I had a fist sized lump and was out for a few seconds but just sore today.

STUPID STUPID STIPUD but was lucky to tell this tale. No helmet-just stupid.

No other word for it.

Where helmets and girdle the big stuff. Just not worth it..in the dog house with my wife now :(

Glad you're ok, those big ones can be dangerous. Almost had something similar happen last year but came away unscathed...it was a big hickory tree. Now I just double girdle them and squirt them with Roundup.
 
No deer on the planet is worth dying for so please use caution and wear protective gear and good judgement in deciding to hinge or girdle.

Protective Gear

Chaps and helmet are as necessary in the timber as a safety harness and lifeline are in a tree stand....;)
 
Hinge cutting questions

I have read the threads on TSI and EdgeFeathering. I just started hinge cutting yesterday. First time ever. We have zero browse left and deer have dissapeared pretty much. 30 years of good hunting but not now. I have about nine acres of south facing woods 300 yards wide by 200 yards wide, sloping downhill slightly then with a steep 30-50 yard edge on the south side that borders a valley. Forester siad it does not have much value for timber but I will try to save all red and white oaks which are not many (thin them where necessary per TSI). We started at the top of the steep hill and are working up. Pretty much every tree is an undesirable tree and we cut it. The result is just a maze of downed tops that seem to me even too thick for a deer. Also very few trees hinge and if they do hinge the next trees we cut snaps the hinge in many spots Trees seem to fall in the direction they want. In the end we plan to cut out the deer trails that deer used to travel thru and pattern the area to fields and treestands. It is pretty much a clearcut. I have a few questions.
Are we doing too much or is this what we should do, let it grow up and not worry that we are cutting every tree. Should I be leaving the biggest trees girdled and standing to reduce the amount of trees we lay down (we will not be using it for firewood).
Also on the hedgerows that run up and down the hill there are some pretty big trees. Should they be cut if they are undesirable or dropped.
I have a few areas of thick pine 6-18 inch(no browse or tops down) In these pine areas is it a good idea to drop a few unmarketable pines for cover for the time being and TSI the pine stands in the future when we have the time.
Lastly, should I cut the steep side hill or let it remain partially open so the deer can lay at the top and look in the valley.
I appreciate any advice on this and you probably can tell we are new at this. I have a good feeling about what we are doing though. Thanks
 
DBltree is correct and I have since wised up! Still a top 3 stupid moment in my life :)

Lcarabine-I will be interested to see what Paul says here and others. I am in same boat, albeit enough white oaks to keep, but still, great deal of ironwoods and hickory, hackberry, ash, elm and locust.

I try to imagine where I want them to go, and give them lanes to travel, getting more concentrated as it approaches stand locations. It looks NASTY but no browse and no bedding cover is worse IMO. I would hinge the stuff thigh sized or smaller, and yes, some break off, nothing you can do I guess.

Anything bigger though girdle. The canopy will die, this giving the sunlight a chance hit those blow downs and start some growth, so its a win win.

Sounds like you are doing things correctly!
 
The result is just a maze of downed tops that seem to me even too thick for a deer.
There really is no such thing although they will certainly walk around thick tanglements when traveling. That said as I have mentioned previously I usually do large areas leaving smaller open pockets within the thick areas.

Every timber is different with some having little "fuel" for hinging while others have so much you can quickly make a jungle out of it. If you girdle large trees that will in itself create more open areas that although they will grow up to brush will not be full of downed trees.

You are talking about a 12 acres area so that is plenty large enough to create a "mess" but also leave semi open areas. We need diversity so we never want the whole timber to be all in one state at the same time. Hinge large areas within the 12 acres but leave some areas with only 20-30% hinged trees and in several years go back and do those.

Pines are best off girdled when they need to be thinned so work with your forester as to when and how much.

On south facing slopes leave some areas semi open so they can lay in the sun, on the slope but backed up against the hinged trees. Again were talking small areas and pockets that may be bedroom sized or larger.

Here's a very rough example showing the hinged trees in green, couple main runways and the small openings in blue.

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Walked some timber a couple weeks ago that had some real high winds push alot of trees over, looked real similar to what it would be if you went and hinged the whole thing. Not a deer in the whole thing, not even trails where they have used it in the past, despite it being crazy thick. I am all for hinging but I think you can get carried away. Deer are pretty lazy and are always going to travel the path of least resistance. I would rather leave some weed trees standing and have it still look like a timber at the end of the day than have a mat of hinged trees. Just my thoughts, and I am by no means any kind of expert, but it seems like there are lots of people gearing up to get at it and I would just proceed with caution. I like Pauls approach of thicker pockets, not a one size fits all approach to the whole timber.
 
First Hinge Cut

Thanks for the advice and pictures. It sounds like we are approaching it correctly and I will definitely leave some more open areas by girdling and less hinge cuts. The south slope we will particularly pay close attention to.

My area is so heavily hunted I am hoping that deer use this area as a sanctuary from the pressure on other properties. Bucks become very nocturnal here fast due to pressure and I want them laying in my brush pile during the day. If they are on the move then I hope they will use the trails I create and just work the does in these thicker areas.

I also want to give smaller bucks a chance to grow older. No QDM practiced around me. I have 120 acres and this parcel I am working on is close to the middle with the southern border being a neighbors.

It is just such a scary thing to look at when youn first do this, but it makes sense. I have hunted some clear cuts over the years and deer bed in some pretty thick cover.
Thanks again
 
The following is an example of trail blocking/funneling on a farm where the previous landowner had already started awesome habitat work. NWSG, TSI, hinging, centralized feeding areas, tree plantings, cedar screens and fruit tree orchards. He also is a very successful hunter and his stands were all in the interior of the timber on well defined rut runways connecting bedding areas. The only concept that eluded him was that of trail blocking and funneling so when the new owner hired me to manage the habitat....I went to work make an already great work....even better.

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Note in orange the stands (left in place by the previous owner) that were very productive yet also note by the yellow lines that deer could easily travel any number of runways that would pass 60-80 yards from either stand. By utilizing the natural funnel of the creek and fence and then narrowing that funnel via the falling of trees (hinging) I have been able to force ALL the deer by the outside corner of the fence where a blind will be located.

Note that the timber across the fence has not had TSI or hinging done so it is open and deer prefer not to travel thru it.

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That compared to the thick, brushy environment on our side thanks to efforts by the previous landowner. As thick as this is....deer burrow thru it and had a runway that I blocked by falling to large trees (forked) one in each direction.

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I took advantage of shagbark hickories in the area

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to create a blocking effect

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At the junction of the runways at the fence corner I installed a cam that will let us know if this spot will be productive during the rut as well as providing us accurate deer surveys from that area of the farm.

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Because of the fence and the need to clear for a blind I had to clear some trees and decided to push the cut trees to create more blocking and possible sow some clover in this semi open spot in the timber. The newly placed cam noted progress as well as the whitetails using it literally a few hours later.

Before

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A little final clean up

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all of which did not affect the deer even the slightest and they used the new funnel immediately!

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Dozens of deer traveled thru this funnel the first night

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Every property is different and unique but hopefully by following this thread you can pick up ideas that will allow you to improve your habitat and manipulate deer movement at the same time. Keeping in mind that there is not one simple answer to successfully harvesting a 4-5 year old buck every year. It's about year around food sources in one centralized feeding area per 80-120 acres. It's about surrounding that feeding area with thick brushy cover and/or native warm season grasses and increasing browse and bedding areas thru TSI and hinging efforts and then creating funnels in the interior of the timber between bedding areas.

No one answer, no easy effortless way to success but rather a lot of hard work and effort over 3-5 years before it all comes together.

Remember to use Protective Gear and good judgement in deciding to hinge or girdle trees.

Explore all of the planning options in Getting Started

Put all the pieces of the puzzle together because leaving some out will be like art....unfinished....;)
 
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Walked some timber a couple weeks ago that had some real high winds push alot of trees over, looked real similar to what it would be if you went and hinged the whole thing. Not a deer in the whole thing, not even trails where they have used it in the past, despite it being crazy thick. I am all for hinging but I think you can get carried away. Deer are pretty lazy and are always going to travel the path of least resistance. I would rather leave some weed trees standing and have it still look like a timber at the end of the day than have a mat of hinged trees. Just my thoughts, and I am by no means any kind of expert, but it seems like there are lots of people gearing up to get at it and I would just proceed with caution. I like Pauls approach of thicker pockets, not a one size fits all approach to the whole timber.


Do you hunt doe or mature bucks? There is a big difference and reasons why some bedding areas don't work.
 
Cover and Browse

To often the focus is entirely on food sources...you never see for instance a big fancy add in a hunting magazine advertising "cover"...it's always about the supposed "magic" of some kind of food source that promises to grow monster racks and bring hoards of deer to your property. None of that could be farther from reality of course and in the end...the one with the best cover will be the most successful at holding mature whitetails on their property.

Thick nasty cover not only provides the safe bedding that holds mature whitetails but also "feeds" them as well

These pics are from an area a friend of mine did TSI and hinging work on perhaps 5 or more years ago?

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Deer pour out of these areas that appear so thick a rabbit couldn't get thru it!

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Compared to wide open timber commonly found this provides a plethora of cover and browse

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Kip Adams wrote a great QDMA article on "Important Deer Foods"...all natural browse food sources....some of which are listed below.

Midwest – We received data from 4 states (IL, IN, KS, KY). Brambles and grape were most often reported. Coralberry, dogwoods, greenbriar, Illinois bundleflower, ragweed, trumpet creeper, wild lettuce and wild rose were also important species. Other notable plants included asters, plums, pokeweed, sumac and trillium.

Northeast – We received data from 4 states (ME, NH, NJ, PA). Bracken fern, brambles, grape and greenbriar were reported by multiple states. Canada mayflower, jewelweed, poison ivy, Virginia creeper, wild rose and wild sarsaparilla were also important species. Other notable plants included blue bead lily, goldenrod, plantain, sumac and winterberry.

Southeast – We received data from 9 states (AL, AR, FL, LA, MS, OK, SC, TN, TX). Brambles, grape, greenbriar, honeysuckle (primarily the native coral, but also non-native Japanese/white) and ragweed were listed by nearly every responding state. Pokeweed and strawberry bush were listed by about half of the states, and American beautyberry, beggar’s lice and poison ivy were also listed by a third of the states. Other notable plants included Alabama supplejack, devil’s walking stick, Florida pusley, old field aster and trumpet creeper.

Canada – We received data from 6 provinces (BC, MB, NS, ON, QC, SK). Asters, brambles, choke cherry, fireweed, pondweed, snowberry, sow thistle, trillium, Virginian strawberry and wild rose were all reported from more than one province. Other notable plants included Canada mayflower, jewelweed, lupines, ragweed and wild lettuce.

When we radically open up canopy the result is a mass explosion of "brush" that will include many of the species mentioned in Kips article

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There will be of course mostly young saplings that provide browse and cover for many years

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For that reason we want different stages of succession in our timber

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So that the entire thing isn't all the same at any one time

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On larger timber do areas or blocks each year if possible

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and keep a variety of growth coming up to provide cover and browse at all times on your property

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You can also see why it is not imperative that every tree remained hinged, if some break off don't worry about it...eventually new growth will erupt and in time the hinged trees may not even be noticeably....dead or alive..

If you have cover like that shown, you will hold a tremendous number of deer of which a percentage will be mature bucks, all of which will eat anything and everything you plant. If you have poor quality cover you find it difficult to hold deer and the kind of food sources you plant will never fix the problem.... ;)
 
hinging cutting response

Lcarabine

"I have a few areas of thick pine 6-18 inch(no browse or tops down) In these pine areas is it a good idea to drop a few unmarketable pines for cover for the time being and TSI the pine stands in the future when we have the time."

The only time I've girdled or cut pines is when they are bumping up against an oak, otherwise they make for great bedding cover especially when the snow hits.

Something else to consider, if your woods doesn't have too many pines and the soil is above 6.0 PH you could clear a few small strips for kill plots. Over the years with all the leaf drop decomposing (humus) can create some highly organic soil conditions, rye, brassicas and even clover would do well.
 
Manipulating Habitat

The following is yet another example of a real situation where I have combined year around food sources in a centralized feeding area, edge feathered the timber for blocking and manipulating deer movements and hinged trees within the timber to funnel deer by one stand rather then two.

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I started with the natural runway skirting the edge of the field that allowed bucks to check the runways entering the field without coming into the field itself in daylight hours. My goal was to remove a few trees at a corner and then block cross runways farther into the timber so that bucks must come out and around the corner. I cut the trees down and pushed them back with the tractor forming a block in itself where deer previously used a secondary runway that was just out of archery range...

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I hinged trees over several old runways and forced them onto one that is just inside the timber

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I mounted a cam that will now catch 100% of the deer going thru here giving the landowner an accurate census of both deer and mature whitetails using this corner.

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I edge feathered the field edge and pushed the trees around to block off multiple runways entering the field

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Forcing all deer coming out this corner area to walk within 20 yards of the stand...this area will be white clover this coming year and is adjacent to the feeding area as noted on the aerial view. In the background lies the runway skirting the corner and the ground drops off considerably keeping deer hidden from any field areas.

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Note ALL of the factors involved here, many started by the previous landowner such as NWSG, cedar screens, TSI, hinging etc. I capitalized on this great work to establish year around food sources and use blocking and funneling to give accurate cam surveys and increase the landowners odds of successfully harvesting a mature buck. The stand will allow him to hunt bucks that refuse to enter open areas in daylight hours yet he will also not have to enter a sanctuary.

The cam had over 200 pics on it in 48 hours after completing the funnel...

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The adapted it to it immediately and showed no fear or alarm at their changed surroundings

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Both mature bucks and does can be easily taken from this spot without alarming other deer

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and mature bucks will wear this trail out during the rut...

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Every property is different but hopefully these examples give you ideas on how you can manipulate deer travel to increase your odds of success. Combine ALL the factors noted on the aerial if you have a similar situation and make your habitat work for you.... ;)
 
I have a ton of ironwood on my property that is a pain in the you know what to cut, plus they typically do not hinge very well. Should I still try to hinge them or just cut them down. It is amazing how they can still not tip with less than one inch attached to the tree.
 
I have a ton of ironwood on my property that is a pain in the you know what to cut, plus they typically do not hinge very well. Should I still try to hinge them or just cut them down. It is amazing how they can still not tip with less than one inch attached to the tree.

I would hinge them and if they completely fall, then they completely fall. No harm no foul.
 
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