First time soybean plot help

[tommyls1313]

Guys I've been using the Dbltree fall mix for several years now and love it. I'm wanting to add a grain plot as well this year but have never planted such. I'd like to plant beans. I'm looking for any and all advice on the steps I should go through. The field I'm planning to plant was farmed in beans 2 years ago but didn't get planted last year and not going to this year other than what I plant. I mowed off the waist high weed stubble a week ago today. I'm hoping to find someone in my area I can pay to no till beans in for me. I was thinking I should round up the area now that I'm starting to get new growth on the weeds then no till the beans in. Is this a good idea or what should I do? And what's the latest date I can get the beans planted? Thanks in advance guys

 

[Sligh1]

"stubble" - mowed I assume?
Fry it. Cook the daylights out of it. That's step 1. I've had some varying difficulty on some burn downs this year. As in, I wouldn't hold back on round-up and it's cheap per gallon (like $10-12 if buying bulk or find good deals). If it were ME.... I'd blast it with 4 qts round-up (heck, maybe more, only thing that hurts is pocket book) with Crop oil & ammonium sulfate added (oh, I forgot, if you have a sprayer with electric motor, must skip the Ammonium sulfate - don't want you frying the electric motor). I've got a "mad-scientist" stock of herbicides so I guess to be honest - I'd throw more at it if were me.... I'd do 4-5 qts round-up, Ammonium sulfate, crop oil, possibly 30 oz of Liberty (depending on weed type), 6-7 oz of Sonic & Prowl H2O. that's exact mix I did on one NASTY patch and I still had a few weeds slip through. Yes, that's a nuclear bomb BUT it also has residuals so I don't need to hit it again soon, 1 more spray possibly and I'm done.
So, all I'm saying is make sure it's deader than dead if possible. Same day, before or after, I'd be putting down 100-200 lbs pelletized lime. Not critical for PH but calcium helps beans. Not a "must do" but sure helps. I'd also add a combo of like 15-50-65 per acre (something like that) in fertilizer from coop BUT most of that won't be broke down this year so you're just kinda doing that for little help and the long haul. I'd also ask for innoculant for beans. Most guys skip it and one more thing BUT especially if hasn't been in beans for a while, it will help. You can get ALL this stuff at your local coop.

Drill ASAP. 1-2" deep, depending on moisture. Make sure big enough plot. If severe deer pressure, 250k seeds per acre and deer will thin em. SPRAY when weeds are small in plot.

So above is "complex" kinda but not really. If you want to make life simple.... Burn it down like crazy, drill asap and keep weeds controlled and that's as simple as a guy can make it.

 

[trev33]

Be very careful with residuals if you are planning to spread any fall rye or radishes in your beans. Sonic has a 12 month waiting period before planting rye.

 

[tommyls1313]

Ok thanks guys. I'm spraying it with roundup today. With the heat we've got coming next few days I'm hoping for a good burn. Hoping to get it planted before the rain forecast next week.

Keep the advice coming. This is all new to me

 

[Booner]

40oz of a glysophate (roundup) with 12- 15 gals of water/acre, if you have your applicators license I'd thrown in some prowl or if the coop is spraying it. I also use a product called "class act" which acts as an adjacent and a surfactant- helps your herbicide stick to the weeds a lot better and does the same as AMS without the sticky mess. Using something like this alone will allow you to not get wild with herbicide amounts because your getting excellent contact with the weeds youre trying to kill. . Id get it sprayed here in the next day or two and wait 2-4 days to plant your beans, typically if your doing a burn down you don't want to put the seed in the ground immediately after spraying because your crop will seed an affect. Also i wouldn't worry about fertilizing because it takes time for those micronutrients to become available to the plant. And let's be honest youre not farming for a profit only to feed deer, so do it as cheap as possible. I have growers who I work for that didn't spread dry fertilizer this yr because of cutting costs and that's on large farming opperations, so i surely wouldn't he doing it for a food plot for the wildlife.

Go into your local coop and sit down with the agronomist, it costs you nothing. He'll be able to help you out and pry a good chance he deer hunts too. They also may have some extra "non name brand" chemicals laying around in bulk they pry sell you cheaper just to get them off inventory.

 

[arm]

I did some beans for the first time last weekend. Did research and everyone says to inoculate for first year beans. Come to the co-op and guy ("the guy" mind you, I had to wait for him to get back in) says they don't carry it because no one uses it anymore. Story of my life when it comes to learning this food plot business

 

[Dingo]

Overkill

I totally disagree with the amounts Sligh suggested. You need to be responsible with herbicides not go crazy and use way too much. Someone else suggested 40 oz per acre which is much more than enough and a much better figure to use. I have had excellent results in spring summer with 1 quart per acre and it works even better with a fall application as that is when plants are storing stuff in the root system for winter and that is where the active ingredient goes. I do not do no-till as I don't have the machinery for it. I rototill broadcast the beans then cultipack them in and get very good crops. Please do not abuse chemicals our earth does not need it!

 

[goatman]

I totally disagree with the amounts Sligh suggested. You need to be responsible with herbicides not go crazy and use way too much. Someone else suggested 40 oz per acre which is much more than enough and a much better figure to use. I have had excellent results in spring summer with 1 quart per acre and it works even better with a fall application as that is when plants are storing stuff in the root system for winter and that is where the active ingredient goes. I do not do no-till as I don't have the machinery for it. I rototill broadcast the beans then cultipack them in and get very good crops. Please do not abuse chemicals our earth does not need it!

You must have no resistant weeds yet. You will not get by with a quart/acre very long. Amounts differ with soil type. Label recommends me to use 3 qts/acre on roundup beans. I don't use that amount. You also can't cultipack beans on my ground. It dries out within hours.

 

[Booner]

Label recommends me to use 3 qts/acre on roundup beans. I don't use that amount.......

And this good Sir is why we have resistant weeds...

Those recs are there for a reason. Weeds gain resistance because people don't follow them. It's one thing worrying about going on the heavy side, and have residual carry over; it's another when you skimp and use half rates, etc.

 

[goatman]

I use 2 qts/acre on 6" weeds and less. These are on new fields. If there are resistant weeds they came from my farmer neighbors. You can bare the ground for a year with to much roundup. I've seen it. Twice.

 

[Oct-Lull]

We have been farming the same ground now since 1998. We farm for feed and we only spray herbicide one time to get our corn to canopy, surrounded on all sides by bigger crop outfits, none who are super irresponsible. We have the co-op spray at the recommended mix and we have no trouble. Terms like burn it down or nuke are true, and they are leading to weeds that are resistant. I bet deer plots have more Chen's in them then most commercial crop ground due to micro managing.

 

[Booner]

I use 2 qts/acre on 6" weeds and less. These are on new fields. If there are resistant weeds they came from my farmer neighbors. You can bare the ground for a year with to much roundup. I've seen it. Twice.

And that's why your seeing a lot more non glysophate chemistrys or even guys going old school and going back to chemicals like Callisto xtra which has been around for a long time.

Ignorance is the only excuse for resistant weeds being a huge issue in the majority of cases. Guys aren't willing to change things that have worked for 10+ yrs. My dad's dad did this and he was successful so it must work today just doesn't cut it anymore.

 

[goatman]

So when it gets to 5 gal/acre you're good with that. Interesting. Roundup is a wonderful chemical but will be old school when you get older.

 

[Matthewfox_45]

I'm curious how round up has can "bare" an area for a year since it has zero residual control. There had to be other chemicals at play there.

 

[hoosierhunter]

Primary weed resistance is created by using lower levels of chemical thus allowing the weed to develop tolerance.

Same as drinking, what gets me drunk surely wouldn't affect an alcoholic because they are used to that much alcohol.

Spraying recommended dosage will kill most weeds, but more mature plants may be able to withstand the chemical thus creating a more resistive strain in the future.

Another factor is using the same chemicals for prolonged periods and not rotating crops.