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Timber Care Question

locust

New Member
I've been seeing and reading more and more (most recent in the Prairie & Woodlands Iowa Magazine...I recommend subscribing to this if you are into TSI and planting natives etc) on the benefits to burning in timber. It seems to reestablish native browse grasses and forbes, and fight back multiflora/honeysuckle etc. My question is have any of you done this and seen good results? Do you know of anybody (PF/DNR) that does this type of work? My timber is getting pretty congested wtih prickly ash and I don't see alot of new small oaks growing. The current trees themselves look great...but I'm thinking of how it will look down the road. I've done TSI a few years back...but haven't been too happy with the results.
 
I did a TSI project in 2001 and am going to apply for another round now. I need to have a nice slow cool burn in the timber pretty soon. There are several members that burn- I hope they chime in here.

Are you talking about "Midwest Woodlands and Prairies" magazine? I subscribe and really think it is full of great info. Not sure about the contact info but it has been discussed on IW before.
 
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I've been seeing and reading more and more (most recent in the Prairie & Woodlands Iowa Magazine...I recommend subscribing to this if you are into TSI and planting natives etc) on the benefits to burning in timber. It seems to reestablish native browse grasses and forbes, and fight back multiflora/honeysuckle etc. My question is have any of you done this and seen good results?

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The only timber burning I've done was by...accident
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I have seen the results of controlled burns to encourage natural forage in timber and to help control undesireables and I would say it has very positive results.

I think most do it themselves with a little help, some fire lanes etc. but there may be proffesionals for hire also.
 
yes, I believe that is the correct name. I just sent an email to woodriver@netins.net and he sent me the summer article and a subscription form. Are you doing TSI on the same ground? My disappointment with my TSI is they didn't cut any of the many small elms/ironwood I have that are pole sized, nor did they cut enough of the hickories that are not huge, but in the middle range that really throw a blanket of shade everywhere...which may explain the many less than one inch prickly ash I have. I hadn't done it before so my expectations of what my timber was going to look like were way different than the final product. If you are ever going to burn on your own and need a runner..let me know I'd be interested to see how it goes and help. I think I could do mine somewhat safely with some strategic mowing and 7-8 runners with water...but too big for me to tackle right now. I have heard the PF guys do pasture/field for 50-60 bucks an acre, but I don't think they do timber.
 
We have burned different parts of our timber over the last 3 yrs. The biggest timber burn being around 20 ac. at one time. We have deffinately seen positive results from our burns, not only does it promote new growth of the native forbes (which the deer really love and need) but, it also really sets back the multiflora rose, prickly ash and young locusts. We have done these burns our selves with the help of 3-6 of our friends. Depending on how the timber lies you will want to have fire breaks in place to control the edges of the fire, alot of the time we have just used a gas powered leaf blower to blow hand lines through the timber for our fire breaks, just blowing out a path 3-4ft. wide works great. We also use 4-wheelers w/sprayer tanks filled with water to spot spray. Most timber fires burn pretty slow compared to burning a field of switch grass but you always want to have enough people on hand just in case. I would suggest trying it, I think you would be happy with the results. We will be burning some of our timber again this spring if you are interested in experiencing it first hand.
 
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We will be burning some of our timber again this spring if you are interested in experiencing it first hand.

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Do we have to BYOB??
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Pheasants Forever habitat teams do prescribed burns of all kinds.I have contracted them to burn 22 acres of my timber during the late winter.The good thing is that they create an approved burn plan and have their own insurance should any problems arise.Good people to work with and reasonable in cost.
 
dbltree,

You can if you like, but we usually try to keep all participants well hydrated.
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I'll see if I can get Rob to post some before, during and after pictures of some of our burns. He's much better at documenting that than I am.
 
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You can if you like, but we usually try to keep all participants well hydrated.
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Good help can be hard to find, but refreshments always helps to round up...cheap help!
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I admit to being a skeptic on the values of burning until touring your place. Seeing is believing and it's certainly worth the effort.
Hopefully Rob can post some before and after pics of some of your timber burns.
 
I'm glad we converted you Paul ... burning timber should be a part of any whitetail plan, it's one management practice that can have a very positive impact for all wildlife and it's the cheapest, most effective foodplot out there ...if you don't burn down your neighbors farmhouse
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Healthy oak forest need to be managed with fire as they have for thousands of years. Selective logging and absence of fire is slowly converting Iowa's forest from oak/hickory to basswood/maple/elm and including prescribed fire into your long term management plan is one way to stop this downhill slide and provide lots of food for your deer herd.

Too many Iowan's picture western forest fires when you talk about burning timber here. Unless you have a young cedar thicket with live limbs to the ground, our timber generally burns slow with low flame lengths and is often difficult to get a fire to carry.

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There is usually lots of smoke and very little flame. Easy to control and put out. The only difficult part is old logs, and snags that do occassionally catch fire and require mop-up that can take days.

Fire invigorates many forbs, sets back overmature shrub species, and encourages oak seedling production.

The photo below was taken a few weeks after the burn from the same location.

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On our farm we try to create as much diversity as possible. Some areas need to be left brushy and kept brushy to provide good bedding/hidding areas. We keep fire out of these areas and maintain the timber stand with a chainsaw. Other areas are periodically burned to eliminate or set back brush like multiflora rose or coral berry and release forb and oak seedlings. The left side of this trail is essentially a fire foodplot and the right side is thick bedding cover.

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In general if you want to kill brush, burn it after it has completely leafed out. If you just want to just set it back for fresh browse, burn before it breaks bud.

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Prescribed fire can be a great tool and something we'll always utilize but it's not for everyone. Don't burn unless you are prepared to deal with a wildfire. Consult with someone that has burn experience and the Pheasants Forever Habitat Specialists are an excellent tool. They may seem expensive but if you have them do a burn or two on your property, consider it an education cost so you can eventually do your own prescribed burns. If you go out and burn with no experience and little equipment and end up with a $500,000 bill for fire suppression cost and your neighbor's house, the PF bill you would have paid will seem pretty cheap.
 
Man, reading this stuff and seeing pictures is like crack cocaine to me. I shouldn't look at this at work on a Friday. Great pictures. I'd love to get a crew together to do this at my place. I have sent a note to one of the PF habitat folks hoping they could do a burn for me next year. I'd be happy to supply beverages to those that would want to do it if they cannot!!! Just curious, do you notice any difference in tick "infestations" after doing a burn? Curious if a burn helps at all in that arena. Was this burn you did in the pics a spring burn? Great stuff...thanks for sharing.
 
I have never noticed a difference in tick population after a burn but I would think at least a few would get toasted. Early spring burns when the ticks are closer to the soil would probably have less impact than a late spring burn when they are out looking for a meal.

As for burn timing, you can burn anytime of the year if the weather conditions are right and your fuel moisture is low. Timing mostly depends on the objective of the burn and the convienance of our schedules. Most of our burns are between March and June.

Early March 2006
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Early May 2006
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July 8, 2006
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Rob-Jason,
You guys are killing me. I've seen a few of those before and drool over your results.
I'd buy more than you care to drink anytime you're ready to burn.
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You couldn't be thirsty enough to offset the wonders that does for a timber.
 
Thanks for taking the time to post the pics and great info on burning to improve timber habitat Rob
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Maybe we need to combine "burn parties" with field trip/farm tours!
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It's good to see that fire sets back that MR...that way it leaves room for something purty to sprout up....like AO!
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Here's a link to PF's Habitat people for those that don't have time or help to burn prairie grass or timber, not to mention planting foodplots, etc.

Pheasants Forever: Habitat Speicalists
 
I concur with Pharmer - I'd contribute to the delinquency rate in SE Iowa because I too could buy alot of liquid currency for burn help. I've sent an email to a PF habitat specialist Friday but I haven't heard back yet....hope it works out.
 
I have done CRP burns but never a timber burn. The results look awesome in those photos! My problem is that my farm borders a 500 acre tract of public river-bottom ground that would go up like a gas soaked sponge if any embers from my timber burn got to it. There is really no way to make a fire break between the two because of steep areas and creeks. I am on a volunteer fire department in my area and have thought of doing a "practice" session out there with full gear. Don't know what the state would say about burning on their side?
 
Yours does sound difficult Skully but I was amazed at what one can do with a leaf blower! I wouldn't have thought Bighole and Farmland QDM could burn the places they do, but they are...and safely I might add...of course they most likely make sure the help isn't "refreshed" until after they burn!
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My problem is that my farm borders a 500 acre tract of public river-bottom ground that would go up like a gas soaked sponge if any embers from my timber burn got to it. There is really no way to make a fire break between the two because of steep areas and creeks.

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Timber firebreaks are not the same as grassland firebreaks, 1 to 2 feet of bare mineral soil is enough to contain a timber burn and this often takes little effort to put in. A hand rake, chainsaw, and leaf blower is all we use and usually the leaf blower completes 90% of the work. All snags, logs, and brushpiles near the fire break that could ignite and cause the fire to jump this break need to be cut down, moved outside of the fire unit, or prevented from catching on fire when you start to burn. A burning snag 40 feet tall can throw embers a long ways, but once it is felled, although it can burn a long time, does not create much of a hazard, unless it is close to your firebreak.

If you have an area of concern near your burn, like the river bottom you mentioned, start your fire near that hazard and burn away from that point.

Have an accurate hourly, fire weather report and pay close attention to the wind and humidity. Burn only when the wind is forcasted to blow away from your hazard for several days ... and this may restrict you to a very small burn window that only gives you a few days a year to complete the burn, but that's an important part of a safe prescribed burn.

Small firebreaks required for timber burns don't usually provide access for equipment if something goes wrong. In your fire plan you should always identify backup access roads or trails that you can at least get a 4-wheeler into just in case the fire doesn't go as expected.

We commonly burn timber adjacent to unburned fuels such as native grass on steep, uneven, ground. We haven't lost one ... yet ... but we are also very cautious about our burns and monitor the burn unit until all smokes that could develop into a problem are out, which can take days on a timber burn. Prescribed fire in a timber can also require falling a burning tree or snag at 1 am to prevent an escape. Bighole and I have enjoyed recreational, night-time, burning tree, logging a few times. If you want to burn timber, you need to be prepared to enjoy this activity yourself ... if this doesn't sound like fun ... don't try to burn your timber. Like I said before ... it's a great management tool to use, but be prepared if you use it.
 
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