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Too Late for Corn??

petherss

New Member
How late is too late to plant corn? I'm guessing it is too late, but am also assuming it depends on how much rain you get, etc. I just found out what the neighbors are planting (soys) and would like to have something different on my place. Just don't want to waste my time/money if it's a lost cause. Thanks!

BC
 
For food plots, corn is still an option. Somewhere around May 20 (depending on where your ground is) you start to lose potential yield and corn moisture at harvest will be higher. Since record yields in a food plot isn't too much of a concern and you don't have to worry about drying down wet corn, you should be good.

What day length corn do you have? You might consider a shorter day variety if you haven't already purchased your seed.
 
The other thing I would keep in mind when deciding to plant corn in June, is the possibility of a summer drought. Early planted corn will have roots deep enough to help it thru a drought whereas late planted corn (especially on sandy loam type ground) may not.

Everything is always a crap shoot as far as the weather is concerned...it might rain all summer or ir might quit next week...for good, who knows.

The ag/weather forecast this spring was calling for an above average chance of drought here in Iowa this summer. Right now, drought is the farthest thing from anyones mind...memories of the floods of 93' are more the norm... /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crazy.gif

Having said all that corn can still provide a dandy food plot but...at this point I would rather go with soybeans for several reasons.

Soys can thrive in heat and endure long periods of drought and still have beans on them this fall. If corn doesn't have water when it is silking...it could be an almost complete failure (trust me...I know... /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crazy.gif )

This fall if everyone has soybeans and you have a great crop of standing corn...your good to go.

If everyone has soybeans and your corn fails versus you being the only one with standing soybeans when everyone else has harvested thiers, well....just food for thought... /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
Thanks for the input. As of right now, I haven't bought any corn. In fact, I've heard that regular corn (that you can buy for deer feed) will grow. I have a 100# of it in my garage right now. Granted, it's not as good, but I'm trying to do this on the cheap. If it doesn't pan out, I'm really not out much. I am also thinking about broadcasting soys with the corn to minimize my total loss scenario.

Also, I don't have access to a corn planter, so i'm hoping discing it in and then cultipacking will work??? I would love for the corn to produce ears, but even if it doesn't, I would be satisfied with the cover it might provide in the early season. Should I spring for better corn or just roll with what i have?
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BUCKCRACK</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Should I spring for better corn or just roll with what i have? </div></div>

A "cheap" bag of corn from our seed dealer was $120 this year. Stacked trait (RR, corn borer, root worm) was around $210.

Your call on buying seed.
 
holy cow. I am only wanting to plant like 1/2 acre of corn. Please tell me my 'deer feed' corn will grow! I'm pretty sure it will since i've literally grown corn in my truck bed on accident (yes, It is THAT dirty). Just wondering if that was a freak deal or what. For $120, i'll take my chances. Are soys that pricey too?
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: nannyslayer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Randy, you just don't know the right seed dealer /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif </div></div>

Or one of us needs to move closer.....

The same seed dealer quoted RR beans at $40/unit (bag).
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BUCKCRACK</div><div class="ubbcode-body">holy cow. I am only wanting to plant like 1/2 acre of corn. Please tell me my 'deer feed' corn will grow! I'm pretty sure it will since i've literally grown corn in my truck bed on accident (yes, It is THAT dirty). Just wondering if that was a freak deal or what. For $120, i'll take my chances. Are soys that pricey too? </div></div>

Something to keep in mind is joining Pheasants Forever who will give you free seed corn (among other seeds). Compared to buying one bag of seed corn (even from our favorite seed dealer... /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif )...$30 bucks (or something like that) for dues is pretty cheap!

One can often get year old soybean seed for 1/2 price and it is usally far less then seed corn.

In your case the bin corn will most likely do the trick... /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
You can plant the 93-95 day seed corn from Welter Seed & Honey. 50lb bag costs $135.

Welter Seed



If you're close to any farmers whose ground you hunt, just stop by to shoot the breeze and ask them if they have any leftover bags of seed corn that they're never going to use. I did that this year with a farmer whose ground I've pheasant hunted on for several years and he was more than willing to get rid of them, they had been sitting in his shed accumulating dust...and its coming up good!
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dbltree</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BUCKCRACK</div><div class="ubbcode-body">holy cow. I am only wanting to plant like 1/2 acre of corn. Please tell me my 'deer feed' corn will grow! I'm pretty sure it will since i've literally grown corn in my truck bed on accident (yes, It is THAT dirty). Just wondering if that was a freak deal or what. For $120, i'll take my chances. Are soys that pricey too? </div></div>

Something to keep in mind is joining Pheasants Forever who will give you free seed corn (among other seeds). Compared to buying one bag of seed corn (even from our favorite seed dealer... /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif )...$30 bucks (or something like that) for dues is pretty cheap!

One can often get year old soybean seed for 1/2 price and it is usally far less then seed corn.

In your case the bin corn will most likely do the trick... /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif </div></div>

Our local Conservation Office also offered us all the free milo, corn, and upland bird mix we wanted. I guess some local seed dealers or farmers give them their extra bags.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JNRBRONC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

The same seed dealer quoted RR beans at $40/unit (bag). </div></div>



Whoaaa, our highest price beans are only $38, but you can throw in a discount or two, or you can get the "forklift" attacked bags for pretty much nothing.
 
Forklift attacked bags /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif Does this happen alot around food plot times /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif I wouldn't worry about corn. Its not like you have to dry it down to store it .
 
Next time a forklift attacks a bag of RR forage beans sweep up the 4-5 pounds that spilled on the floor and send 'em my way.

The 'Bonker
 
Hey bonks, how about you just drive over for a visit and I'll toss you a couple of busted bags. Heck, you'll be within 15 miles saturday.
 
buckcrack,
I drilled in RR corn the about a week ago and it is starting to come up already.I then went in behind it and drilled in RR FORAGE SOYBEANS.That way i know one will work.This is for a food plot not to harvest.I think that your deer corn will grow stalks as I have tried it myself.I did it years ago and it grew stalks with little ears.
deer did love the cover.
I know one thing after an allergy attack last night that almost killed me I am going to redo my equipment.
new tractor with a cab.I have a brand new JD 5425 but without a cab.

JD 7000 4 or 6 row no till corn planter with dry fert boxes.

great plains 605NT no till planter for beans, small seeds and native grasses.

I could not open my eyes till this morning and I cant take it anymore.
looked at a new kubota 93? today with a cab....nice.
101_0274.jpg
 
fullrut2- that's a helluva nice setup you got there. Wish I had half that equipment. Having to rely on someone else's schedule to get stuff done sucks. I tried my own Biomaxx plot a couple years ago....with terrible results. The weeds outcompeted the corn hands down. I vowed to never try a spring plot again and yet here I am.....hmmmm. Probably better to just burn everything all summer and wait to plant late soys. Thanks!

BC
 
bc,
thats a good idea now..burn everything and then wait for fall.I will be doing the same with the other 25 acres I have of tillable.

I know what you mean about having to wait for help.I bought my farm and had zero equipment.first thing I did was rent a bobcat and got it stuck! I knew nothing about tractors and looked and looked and asked a million questions and bought a new tractor and was off to the races.
 
To all you farmers out there......How do farmers get such a weed free field? Do they use pre-emergent or whatever it is called? I see in the spring before a farmer discs (if they don't drill) that there are a few weeds. But when they turn the soil over and then plant corn/soys, the crop comes up and everything else looks clean as a whistle. I am always amazed at how farming has been perfected over the years. If I was to do the same thing, just disc up my weeds (even after burning), I still have weeds galore- especially in spring and even some in the fall.

I started thinking that maybe after years of farming, the majority of the weed seed has been exposed and then burned? Gets frustrating when you're only trying to prep 1/2 acre and can't do it while farmers are dealing with hundreds of acres and are pros. ha. Thanks!

BC
 
The reason that the fields are clean, is most farmers use's a PP or PE (pre plant or Pre emerge) herbicde. Some do it in the fall of the year, most do it in the spring. What most of your pre-emerge herbicides consist of is some type of grass killer, and some type of broadleaf surpressent. There are very few one pass systems that work, so most generally they use a two pass herbide program. This means putting a good pre-emerge herbicide down, followed by a post emerege herbicide, with liberty and roundup being the favorites.

This also goes back to previous years. If a farmer has been running a good weed control program, there won't be many weeds in the field. Now on the other hand, if they have been trying to get by with minimum use of herbicides, alot of times they have a "flush" of weeds, which in turn gives them problems for many years to come.
 
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