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Tree Planting

Shrubs will usually outgrow browsing. They like to spread out so I don't think tubing is a good idea. My experience with every kind of shrub planted in a riparian is this: Most browsed- hazelnut and dogwood Least browsed- ninebark, plum, and high-bush cranberry. They all eventually grew up. Bucks love to rub them all.

Tubing them works okay for shrubs if they are 8 inch diamater tubes. What gets hit the hardest on me is hazelnut, shrub dogwoods, chokecherry, chokeberry, elderberry, viburnums....so basically all of them. Not sure if they will survive the heavy deer numbers or not, the tree seedlings not fenced end up dying. Most shrubs were tubed/fenced but some were left for controls and if they make it I would be shocked. :way:
 
I realize they will probably outgrow browsing unless severly browsed but these are part of a screen around a bedding area so I want them to get up and going as soon as possible. Sounds like I should make sure whatever doesn't get planted in hinged tops will be caged or have a double wide tree pro around them.
 
I realize they will probably outgrow browsing unless severly browsed but these are part of a screen around a bedding area so I want them to get up and going as soon as possible. Sounds like I should make sure whatever doesn't get planted in hinged tops will be caged or have a double wide tree pro around them.


I sure would if you have a lot of deer....also look at the protex tubes from Forestry Suppliers, you can double them up to make an 8 inch tube and they are cheaper than TreePro's and last longer in my experience. Some are going on 6 years now and still like new.
 
also look at the protex tubes from Forestry Suppliers
I'll have to do that. Thanks!
Any thoughts on how ben meadows 5" rigid mesh tubes would do? I see that dbltree had a lot of his shredded by bucks, just wondering what your experience has been with them.
 
I'll have to do that. Thanks!
Any thoughts on how ben meadows 5" rigid mesh tubes would do? I see that dbltree had a lot of his shredded by bucks, just wondering what your experience has been with them.

I have not had any shredded yet, but then again I don't have the buck densities Paul does I really doubt. Lots of bucks are taken in my area ever year and it mostly 1.5 to 2.5 year old bucks left so I think that explains it.
 
It's amazing how deer follow the inner rows of my shelterbelt around my property and even only two rows that offer some screening will encourage them to travel it

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Here is an example of how you can use a shrub conifer planting to funnel deer across a field or between to points of timber. Lot's of planting possibles of course but 2 rows of conifers and 2 rows of shrubs such as plums can work perfectly to funnel deer. Leave the planting wider in the center, space the conifers closer (4' spacing) and the plums planted offset to the conifers and you'll have your self and awesome funnel!

Plant clover down the center and take plenty of arrows in the fall... :way:

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Don't let deer be in control! You can choose where they will travel and a conifer/shrub planting can be an awesome tool to do just that... :way:
 
The Protex tree tubes are still holding up well despite bitter cold and high winds at times and they are all intact except for the occasional victim of a marauding buck this past fall. A friend had some of his come apart last winter so I have been watching ours closely this winter.

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We used fiberglass electric fence posts on these so that combination makes these tubes nearly indestructible and both tube and post should last for years.

Remember Practice 612 under EQIP/WHIP will pay $270 an acre for tree planting to help defray the cost of seedlings and tree tubes so check with your local forester and NRCS right away because deadlines are nearing for this spring.

REAP is the best option for Iowans but REAP has a 3 acre minimum and funds are being cut this year...;)
 
Remember Practice 612 under EQIP/WHIP will pay $270 an acre for tree planting to help defray the cost of seedlings and tree tubes so check with your local forester and NRCS right away because deadlines are nearing for this spring

If you want to apply for WHIP then you should get in there right away. I talked my county NRCS and they told me that they were supposed to stop taking applications this past Friday but if I got in there this week they would just back date the application. Sounds like there's no time to waste if you have a project in mind and are looking for WHIP funding.
 
Something everyone can do with the protex tubes is drill holes for zip ties instead of using the anchors they have precut in the tubes...you will also get a bigger diameter tube that way too.
 
Remember Practice 612 under EQIP/WHIP will pay $270 an acre for tree planting to help defray the cost of seedlings and tree tubes so check with your local forester and NRCS right away because deadlines are nearing for this spring.

REAP is the best option for Iowans but REAP has a 3 acre minimum and funds are being cut this year...;)

That is right up my alley!! :way:
 
Conifers are extremely important to provide screening and thermal cover but which ones to plant? I love Norway spruce but without fencing each one bucks kill them here in Iowa! In the north however they may severely browse red cedars and low deer densities may mean there will be few problems with bucks rubbing the spruce trees. Each landowner may find something different but here are pictures of red cedars planted in the spring of 2006 as 17-24" seedlings from the IDNR nursery and only one hear of herbicide treatment.

Many of them are a foot over my head or around 7'

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Here is a picture of a 15 year Norway that bucks have scrubbed yearly!!

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This one is scarcely as large as when I planted it 15 years ago!

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Like all trees growth varies so some are 4' while others are 7

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Here is a spruce that has recovered and has done a little better but by and large in this country, growth of the red cedars far exceeds that or any spruce trees.

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Different soils may experience different results, my soils are heavy clay and well drained. Red cedars do not do well on very wet soils and may not perform well on sandy soils so consider those factors when making your choice for conifers this spring. ;)
 
I wanted to add this information, troubling as it is to this thread....

From the Iowa DNR:

Iowa Bur Oaks Face Terminal Fungus

DES MOINES - One of Iowa's most identifiable trees is under attack from a newly named disease that is currently causing more problems in the state than the high profile emerald ash borer or gypsy moth.

Bur oak blight has been in Iowa since the early 2000s and is already killing trees. Symptoms of bur oak blight include a v-shaped brown discoloration of leaves and browning veins in July and August. This disease can cause severe defoliation that can lead to morality of branches or entire trees. Trees die after the fourth of fifth year of defoliation, usually from a secondary pest.

"Early detection of the disease is the key to managing it," said Tivon Feeley, with the Iowa Department of Natural Resources forest health program.

Infected bur oaks tend to not drop the leaves in the fall like a healthy tree would. These infected leaves act as a source of inoculums for the healthy leaves that emerge and grow in the spring. The emerging leaves become infected with bur oak blight and the symptoms progress slowly until the leaves start browning in late summer.

Bur oak is native to all 99 Iowa counties and more than half of the counties have bur oak blight. The disease is killing oaks from southwest Wisconsin to southern Minnesota, most of Iowa and to eastern Nebraska.

In 2008, bur oak ranked second among all tree species in volume of saw timber on forest land and provides substantial value for wood products. It is one of the most beneficial trees for wildlife habitat and provides food through its acorns for many game and non-game species. It is a significant part of the largest forest type in Iowa. Wild turkey and deer depend on forests for cover and search out oaks for mast before winter.

The loss of bur oak within the oak-hickory forest type will negatively impact the $1.5 billion contribution that fish and wildlife recreation provides to Iowa's economy. Additionally, Iowa's 3 million acres of forest support an estimated 1.1 billion board feet of merchantable size bur oak, with an economic value to landowners of $330 million.

"Right now we are recommending that woodland owners do salvage cuts of infected trees to get maximum value of the tree before it dies, because we will not get rid of this," Feeley said. "Bur oak blight is here to stay."

While the outlook for bur oaks in the countryside is bleak, the outlook for those in town is slightly better.

In urban areas, injecting the fungicide, Alamo™, into the tree appears to have helped trees with their ability to recover. Trees appeared symptomless for the first two seasons after being injected. However, it is likely that subsequent injections would be required when bur oak blight starts to defoliate the tree again.

"It's important for tree owners to not re-apply the treatment until the tree starts to defoliate from the pathogen," Feeley said.

Iowa's overall urban tree canopy has 12 percent tree cover, of which, 3 percent of the trees are bur oak. The estimated landscape value and removal cost for urban trees is more than $500 million. Homeowners can have leaves tested for the disease by sending samples to Iowa State University's Plant and Insect Diagnostic Clinic to have the fungus confirmed. Information on the click and how to submit samples is online at http://www.plantpath.iastate.edu/pdc/.

Proper woodland and community tree management have a critical role in creating healthy trees. Maintaining a diversity of trees is the best insurance a landowner can have. Communities can create tree diversity by not having more than 10 percent of any one species represented.
 
http://www.ipm.iastate.edu/ipm/hortn...oakblight.html


"It's beginning to look like bur oak blight, or BOB for short, is a long-time resident of Iowa, and he's here to stay. Bur oak blight has been recognized in Iowa for only the last 6 or 7 years, but the fungus that causes it has probably been here much longer. A shift in climate to more frequent rain events appears to be increasing the severity of BOB throughout much of the western two-thirds of the state. The same phenomenon that contributes to Iowa's now all-too-common floods may be helping BOB kill our state tree.

A common leafspot fungus, Tubakia dryina, was initially thought to be the cause of the blight on bur oak, but closer examination showed that the cause was a new species of Tubakia. With funding provided by the US Forest Service, we were able to show that there are five species of Tubakia that can infect bur oak, but only one species can cause dramatic leaf symptoms and tree mortality.

The disease tends to intensify year-to-year in individual trees, and if only a portion of the crown is affected, it usually starts in the lower branches and then later progresses up the tree. The fungus overwinters on the petioles of dead leaves that remain attached to branches. Spores are produced in May from black pustules on the petioles of these old leaves, and the spores infect the newly emerging shoots and leaves during rainy weather. Dramatic leaf symptoms do not become evident until July, however, and the severity of symptoms increases in August and September if weather conditions are right. Leaf symptoms include necrosis (death) of the tissue along the veins and wedge-shaped areas of browning at the tips or sides of the leaves. Severely affected trees may die after several years of severe defoliation.

Not all stands of bur oak are seriously affected by the disease, and not all trees are equally susceptible in even the most severely affected stands. Thus far, we have seen severe BOB on only naturally-established bur oak, especially on mature trees on upland sites that appear to be remnants of savannah forests. Bur oak in dense forests and in bottomland sites are less seriously affected. We have confirmed the pathogen in 55 of Iowa's 99 counties, but most of the severely affected stands have been in the western half of the state. We've also confirmed BOB in eastern Nebraska and southern Minnesota.

We are experimenting with fungicide injections for control of BOB in high-value trees. Injections of propiconazole (Alamo) into bur oak in late May or early June, before symptoms appear, have been effective. However, propiconazole at the rate recommended for oak wilt can be phytotoxic to bur oak, and the treatment is costly.

As long as the rains keep coming, BOB will probably continue to intensify on upland sites across much of Iowa, and we could lose a number of stately bur oak. Hopefully our next generation of bur oak should be better adapted to a wetter climate and have the resistance necessary to withstand our long time resident, BOB."
 
Alright guys, so Im a active particpant in the foodplot forum however, until this year I had never opened this thread becuase I never had an urge to plant trees. I live in the northwoods why would I plant trees......Well in another couple months Im going to have 300 fruit tree seedlings that need to be planted and tubed. Now the people that I ordered with (surrounding neighbors) already have some tubes and have a line on some at less than 3.00 a piece for a 5ft.

Anybody know where a person can get 5ft tubes cheaper than $3.00 a piece.

I read the first 10 pages and thought of reading 64 pages is a little overwhelming so here I am just asking. Im sorry if its already been answered in a different page.
 
Thanks Skip.

Thats what i was looking for. i need to talk to my neighbors a little more, they are talking about buying the Plantra tube right from the factory already. I think their buying a 1000 already maybe they can get another 300 for me.
 
Since you're doing 300 trees, the pricing chart on these get you below $3.00 I think...
http://www.plantra.com/buynow/bntreeshelterO.php#5ftvented
I really like these.

Absolutely no question the cheapest way to go is the protex tubes...
http://www.forestry-suppliers.com/product_pages/View_Catalog_Page.asp?mi=1623
You'll hear some guys here that love them. I personally am not a big fan BUT lots of guys will say that's the way to go.


I am a fan of the protex tubes, I just drill holes in them for ventilation and also holes for the re-usable zip ties and they never come apart that way. The hooks they use are not the best to hold the tubes together, but they sure do last!! Some of mine are on year 6 and as good as new. :drink2:

Tubes are not the best way to go for fruit trees, but I have made them work in the past. Fencing (old woven wire, poultry fencing etc) is THE best way to go on fruit trees.
 
Tubes are not the best way to go for fruit trees, but I have made them work in the past. Fencing (old woven wire, poultry fencing etc) is THE best way to go on fruit trees.

Reason? I dont know that much about tree planting so please elaborate.
 
Reason? I dont know that much about tree planting so please elaborate.


Pruning limbs and diseases are the reasons I would not use them on fruit trees again...namely apples. They need to be pruned to a central leader and kept with good crotch angles so they can handle heavy fruit loads.
 
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