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I'm not as important as Skip, but I'd recommend a product called Dual II magnum. Quiet popular with guys who have corn/beans in same field just like cases you described, works great and you can tank mix it with a glysophate if weed pressure is really bad. Most Coops can get it/have it on hand...

If he sprayed it with a glysophate once and it didn't work, why would you suggest spraying it again solely with it again? Just curious, as honestly this is how weed resistance increases over the years. Guys who struggle with pigweed, lambs quarter, etc in beans have really good luck with a...

Looks like lambs-quarter. Is there any reddish, purple veins running down up/down the stem? Anything flowered yet? They'll be greenish and clustered.

Heck of a fish, congrats!

Yep not to be used as a complete field apply if you have any forbes or any grazing potential you're worried about. This mixture is something someone above asked for as a "spot" apply mixture.

32 oz/acre Tordon + 16oz/acre 24-D That's per/15gal applied rate/acre, so you'd have to know how many gals of water your backpack holds. 32 oz/ 15 gal = 2.13oz/1 gal=Tordon 16 oz/ 15 gal = 1.06oz/1 gal= 24-D It's going to take a few applications and your shooting to get it on before...

Too much bad Indian mojo in your parts. That storm was nasty right well into warren county, then completely died out. I'm sure glad I live in central Iowa. Crops look great :D:D:D:thrwrck:

Looke like you predicted wrong again.

Corn Durango 40 oz/acre Callisto Xtra 22 oz/acre AMS----3lbs/acre Preference 1qt/100 gal (so 15 gals/acre applied you'd run 4.79 oz/acre) Little more costly but super affective especially if you didn't put down a pre would be running Halex GT 3.5pts/acre class act 2.5gal/100 (so 15 gals/acre...

Assuming this was sprayed in April? What would you say is the majority of the soil type is in the area you're looking to plant , sandy, clay loam, etc? Find out what rate he applied at? These will decide really what you can and cannot plant. Medium-fine textured soils with a fairly large...

If you had good seed to soil contact you will be fine; actually you will pry find that the beans will do better in those areas because of more moisture and less weed competition. Ground temp determines germination, and it's obviously where it needs to be because of how late it is.

Why are you wanting to kill of the rye this time of the year???

And that's why your seeing a lot more non glysophate chemistrys or even guys going old school and going back to chemicals like Callisto xtra which has been around for a long time. Ignorance is the only excuse for resistant weeds being a huge issue in the majority of cases. Guys aren't willing...

X2 Pigweed sucks, period. Sometimes is easier to fold em instead of dumping money into a problem that can't be resolved via post emergent herbicide. Like dannyboy said it may be a better bet to get out from under your current rotation and start over. If it was me and pigweed is as bad...

And this good Sir is why we have resistant weeds... Those recs are there for a reason. Weeds gain resistance because people don't follow them. It's one thing worrying about going on the heavy side, and have residual carry over; it's another when you skimp and use half rates, etc.

40oz of a glysophate (roundup) with 12- 15 gals of water/acre, if you have your applicators license I'd thrown in some prowl or if the coop is spraying it. I also use a product called "class act" which acts as an adjacent and a surfactant- helps your herbicide stick to the weeds a lot better and...

Any Coop should carry it and have a cart to rent as well. Don't need to worry about incorporating it if you plan to put it down ahead of some rain.

How many units of N are you trying to put on??? Example: if you're looking for 100 units of N for whatever crop you're planting you would divide those 100 units by whatever product your putting on to find out how many total pounds of that product it takes for you to get the desired units...

I was hoping you'd chime in! Thanks for the legitament answer, as I was hoping the "term" mutt or "pound" dog wasn't going to be throw into an argument of what is considered "crappy" for a dog; as I believe fully that any dog regardless of being a "purebred" can succeed fully if the handler is...

Serious question.....what does a "crappy" Labrador look like, or what makes a Lab crappy?