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Acorns to Oaks!

I'm in the same boat as you bowman. I have no Dunstan chestnuts that germinated. I have some wildlife chestnuts in now but none sprouted yet but they have been in only a few days. I will be rootmaking some swamp oaks this weekend. I'll probably finish the oaks in 1 gal. rootmakers all summer cause it looks like a dry spring is coming.
 
Bowman- I found many ways to screw up my trees, whether never sprouting or killing the ones that did come up. I just don't have the skills that several of these other guys have on here!! I have some spare tree tubes hidden away in the garage for the day when I get this figured out!!
 
I planted some chestnuts on March 24th in Rootmaker cells

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They were already sprouted while in the fridge all winter

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I just use Miracle Gro potting soil...press them in

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and cover them up and water them well

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and on the 30th some were already popping up!

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These were all hybrid chestnuts from Oikos Tree Crops and I have had outstanding success with acorns and chestnuts from them

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I also planted some Dwarf Chinkapin Chestnuts from Nebraska but not so sure about them yet?

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None germinated in the fridge nor have they come up yet but we'll see. Very inexpensive way to start young chestnut and oak seedlings and certainly a far higher survivability rate versus planting bare root stock and a whole lot easier to plant as well.... ;)
 
Paul how often do you water your chestnuts? I have some Oikos chestnuts this year and have good % growing.
 
This year is my first trying the root maker cells. I've got many sawtooth, over cup, English oaks and one chestnut sprouted. How do I know when it's time to move them to a more spacious container?
 
This year is my first trying the root maker cells. I've got many sawtooth, over cup, English oaks and one chestnut sprouted. How do I know when it's time to move them to a more spacious container?

I have left them in the rootmaker cells all summer so certainly no hurry to move them from the 18 cell containers...;)
 
Thanks. I've seen a few suggestions to plant or move them to a bigger root maker after 3-4 months. I'm thinking once the cell gets pretty full of roots the limited size of the 18 cell RM will start to hamper growth at some point.
 
It seems like all the acorns i collected last year had worm holes in them or had worms in them when i collected them... Did i harvest the acorns to late? If i put them in the fidge will it kill them worms that are in there because i don't really want them crawling around in my fridge? Just wondering what i can do to improve my success rate next year?
 
Not sure I have the answer to the worms...guessing they were collected to late? if they have worm holes I suspect they are no longer viable?
 
No they were all bad... I picked them in sept. through october walking to check some cameras... Ever burr oak i cracked open at that time had a little white worm in them
 
Well, out of 4 chestnuts and over 100 swamp white acorns that I tried to nurse in the refrigerator, only 2 chestnuts and 21 oaks have sprouted and started growth. They are taking off in the rootmakers. I have tree tubes orderd but will be a few weeks. How long should I wait to get them planted and tubed? I should be able to water everything I plant on my place but a few will be going to a hutning property and I won't be able to get water to them. The photo below shows the two chestnuts on the back left. The rest are all swamp whites.

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How long should I wait to get them planted and tubed?

the longer they are in the RM cells the better Wayne, for best results the root systems should grow until they have displaced the soil medium in the cell. This does not mean you must wait, only that doing so allows the seedlings to achieve maximum root growth that is far different from that once place in the ground.

So...you can plant any time but I would at least give them a few more weeks and I typically wait til fall, keeping them fertilized and watered in the cells to get maximum growth.

The only bad timing would be during an extended drought in mid summer but in wet summers I have planted them in July with 100% successful survival.:way:
 
the longer they are in the RM cells the better Wayne, for best results the root systems should grow until they have displaced the soil medium in the cell. This does not mean you must wait, only that doing so allows the seedlings to achieve maximum root growth that is far different from that once place in the ground.

So...you can plant any time but I would at least give them a few more weeks and I typically wait til fall, keeping them fertilized and watered in the cells to get maximum growth.

The only bad timing would be during an extended drought in mid summer but in wet summers I have planted them in July with 100% successful survival.:way:

Thanks for the reply, I won't get in a rush then. I'll look back through this thread to see what to use as fertillizer and how much.

Thanks again, this has been as fun for the kids as it has for me!:way:
 
May 13th, 2012

Because of the abnormally warm/early spring I started my chestnuts and acorns outside in late March and the variable temps definitely slowed or delayed germination compared to the 24/7 steady temps inside the house. Germination in the house is usually rapid and even but not so outside at least not in early spring.

The Chinese hybrid chestnuts were the first to sprout but the Timburr chestnuts were nearly 3 weeks late and acorns nearly 60 days after planting in the Root Maker cells!

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Unfortunately being first up was not necessarily a good thing this spring and even though I knew it was going to freeze I forgot to take the trays in on the one night it dropped to 23 degrees... freezing every emerged seedling and at first appeared to kill them.

Eventually however the determined seedlings have begun to re-emerge, many a full 30 days or more after being froze!

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It stands to reason that this will happen in the wild so nature gives the tiny seedlings enough energy to keep growing!

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Had these been protected they would have been a foot tall by now!

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The Timburr chestnuts emerged after the freeze and are growing to beat the band!

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I use a little Osmocote fertilizer on the seedlings once they get growing and they respond very well!

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My Dwarf Chinkapin Oak acorns from NE did not sprout but a few of the native Iowa chinkapin acorns did finally come up, again...more then 2 months after planting!

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and some continue to emerge after all this time!

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My friend Rich collected some burr oak acorns from a very prolific tree on his farm and though they did take more then a month to emerge (also outside) they finally did and are growing well!

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Rich wondered "when to plant them"...

I like to let them grow as long as possible to develop large robust root systems that displace most of the soil in the cells. So his seedlings could be planted any time now but every week in the cell the root systems develop and are air root pruned...something that will affect their growth forever.

Knowing this I plant very late spring or keep the seedlings growing in the cells all summer and plant in the fall...so you have options. I have planted in mid summer during wet years however there could be high mortality if we have a late summer drought like last year.

Tube these seedlings, use herbicide to control weeds and they'll grow like crazy and be yielding acorns far before conventionally grown seedlings and all for pennies a piece.... :way:
 
Last fall, a fellow IowaWhitetailer was kind enough to share some HUGE acorns he had picked up. I also collected a bunch of Swamp White Oak acorns from a windbreak we had planted some years ago. I put the acorns in potting soil and stored them in the fridge over the winter.

I ordered some BlueX direct seeding shelters, mainly because of the price; right at a dollar a piece. I figured that I would see what grew and go back and protect the best trees with wire cages later. I did not want to expend a lot of effort this spring.

I saw that the acorns were starting to sprout in the fridge, so I took advantage of the mild spring weather in March to get them planted. I took one of the HUGE acorns and planted it in the yard, figuring that way I could take better care of it and hopefully have a source of future acorns if none of the ones planted across the farm survived. I took some of the Swamp White acorns and put them in a 76 well tray, covered them with potting soil and had almost 100% germination. I planted them down on the creek bottom in tubes. They look better than the direct seeded, but it was more work.

I went for a walk today and saw that I had what I consider good success: 75-80% of the acorns are growing. This is a pic of the one in the yard, I went ahead and wire caged it since I had the cage on hand. Figured it would help protect it from me and the mower. :D
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Ordered 100 of the BlueX shelters, that was enough for one spring. I'll order another hundred for next spring, collect some more Swamp Whites this fall. I plan on planting some of the Swamp Whites this fall in the tubes where the acorns did not sprout this spring.

The most common tree on the the farm at the moment is box elder. :mad: I hope to rectify that over the next couple of years. ;)
 
Nice work Randy! Inexpensive way to get some oaks started and leave a legacy that will certainly be appreciated far more then...box elders...:way:
 
- I have some oak trees that are about half way to just getting to the top of the tubes. I’ve cleaned out the leaves from last fall already, but for next time…
- Should I prune off some of the lower branches, so they do not compete with the terminal lead, while they are still in the tube?
- Should I plan to pull the tubes in the early spring when the trees are still dormant?
- About how many feet or inches of growth outside of the tube before you pull them off permanently?

- On a different note, Oikos still has some Oaks on sale for about 2.25 per tree, with a minimum of only 5 trees, it’s the perfect time to try a few in those root trapper bags over the summer with a fall planting. At least that’s my story, not sure if the other half will buy it…
 
- Should I prune off some of the lower branches, so they do not compete with the terminal lead, while they are still in the tube?
- Should I plan to pull the tubes in the early spring when the trees are still dormant?
- About how many feet or inches of growth outside of the tube before you pull them off permanently?

I do not do any pruning but I can not say you shouldn't, probably not worth the effort except on black walnuts. I leave tubes on until the tree fills the tube because bucks will tear up the young oaks if you remover tubes before then. Rapid growth then is not the only reason to tube oaks...they need protection for years after in my area at least. ;)
 
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