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Acorns to Oaks!

Spiider said:
Thanks for the input on identifying those oaks! I'm going to try and get a hold of the MSU forestry services and get a positive ID on them. They seem to have them planted in sections. And maybe they have more that I didn't find :)

Are there any tips or tricks for the Burr Oaks? I've got very few that sink during the float test. They are a pain to get loose unless they come out clean or come out with a quick snap. Most seem to have dead space in them and you can hear it rattling.

Also, for all the acorns (not just the Burr) that don't sink during the float test, I have saved those in a different bag, hoping I can use them for deer food. Or are there better uses for them?
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Leave them in water for 24 hours and see how many sink past that point. Some may be dehydrated and come back (sink) after that much time in water. I had some alba's do that last year....really like brown in color cause it was so dry last fall. Put them in water for 24 hours and they looked like they just fell fresh off the tree with that dark brown color after that time.

Floaters can grow, it is just that more of them are not viable (too many worms, molded etc). Basically they are a crap shoot, but if you have say 100 floaters, I am sure some will germinate.
 
Just got an order put in with Bob Henrickson of the Nebraska Arboretum for a pound of Dwarf Chinkapin Acorns, one pound of Swamp White Oak, and one pound of American Chestnut. Thanks for the reference to Bob!
Better hurry and get some while they last! $20/lb for the DCO's, $10/lb for the American Chestnut, and $7/lb for the Swamp White Oak
 
AIRASSAULT said:
Just got an order put in with Bob Henrickson of the Nebraska Arboretum for a pound of Dwarf Chinkapin Acorns, one pound of Swamp White Oak, and one pound of American Chestnut. Thanks for the reference to Bob!
Better hurry and get some while they last! $20/lb for the DCO's, $10/lb for the American Chestnut, and $7/lb for the Swamp White Oak
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Thanks for the heads up! I just called and left a message but will call them back tomorrow first thing :)
 
Alright guys Ive got a lot of acorns alreday starting and I got this thing called cone-tainers I got for free to try out this year. Guess we will see! But my question is I ordered some of the 18 cell rootmakers and 1 gal. are they reusable? And what do you guys use for soil? Would just miracle grow be okay?
 
Bryan95 said:
Alright guys Ive got a lot of acorns alreday starting and I got this thing called cone-tainers I got for free to try out this year. Guess we will see! But my question is I ordered some of the 18 cell rootmakers and 1 gal. are they reusable? And what do you guys use for soil? Would just miracle grow be okay?
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the rootmaker cells/trays are re-usable. The white bags are as well, you will just need to staple them back up when you rip the stitching off to plant the first batch.

I am on the 3rd go round with some of my white rootmaker bags.
 
Bryan95 said:
Also has anyone ordered some trees from mossy oak nativ nurseries? Im seriosly looking into it
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They are a great company to order from. I have some trees from there and recomment the white x overcup hybrid. That tree is very vigorous. :way:
 
Some basic questions for you guys. What methods should use and how should I protect the ones I plant different ways?

For example, I'd like to just direct plant some acorns this fall and see if any take. But if I do that, should I just flag that spot and if it grows, then cage it in the spring?

Another example is for the acorns that I start inside this winter, how many stages of rootmakers should I try to cycle through before I plant them outside? Should I get them growing and plant in the Spring after frost chances are gone and/or should I keep some at home longer and move them to the 5" bags and then plant them next Fall? And I assume if I go this route, growing some at home, that I should cage all of the seedlings I plant.?.?

I didn't mention tree tubes because I'm not sure when I should or shouldn't need to use them. I'm wondering if I cage them and keep the area around them weed free that maybe I won't need them unless I find that mice are getting in? Or just use them right off the bat?

Any input is appreciated! Thanks :)

Steve Webb
 
Spiider said:
Some basic questions for you guys. What methods should use and how should I protect the ones I plant different ways?

For example, I'd like to just direct plant some acorns this fall and see if any take. But if I do that, should I just flag that spot and if it grows, then cage it in the spring?

Another example is for the acorns that I start inside this winter, how many stages of rootmakers should I try to cycle through before I plant them outside? Should I get them growing and plant in the Spring after frost chances are gone and/or should I keep some at home longer and move them to the 5" bags and then plant them next Fall? And I assume if I go this route, growing some at home, that I should cage all of the seedlings I plant.?.?

I didn't mention tree tubes because I'm not sure when I should or shouldn't need to use them. I'm wondering if I cage them and keep the area around them weed free that maybe I won't need them unless I find that mice are getting in? Or just use them right off the bat?

Any input is appreciated! Thanks :)

Steve Webb
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If you are going to plant acorns out without protection....be ready for about 1 in 100 to be left growing come spring. Rodents are hard on them and in some cases, they will get them all.

A 2-3' tall tree tube stuck in the ground 1-2" has protected all my acorns from rodents. Also, spray a 4' circle around the tube to keep it bare dirt and you will not have any issues.

Personally, I think its a waste of time to start acorns inside till say March. Store them in the fridge in damp peat moss till you are going to plant them one way or the other.

Here is what my setup looks like....these are dwarf chinkapin oaks on year 3 on some pretty poor soil. Skip the mesh tubes if you have a lot of mature bucks, they will tear the heck out of them come fall. Luckily, I have not had that problem, but some do. Then again, I really do not have any resident mature bucks, its a doe factory on my place.

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TDswitchback26 said:
Letemgrow, are those chinkapins started inside or from the tube in the ground strategy u described? Thanks
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Fall planted acorns right where you see them today.

Site prep before planting will dramatically increase planting success. Now is the time to spray any cool season grasses growing where you are going to plant now, next spring, or heck, even next fall.
 
Thanks for all the input and advice! So the Forest Management link that I read about in the 30ish pages of this thread is no longer active, do you have any other places to recommend to buy from?

Also, did you just push those DCO's in the ground? Note taken on the set prep for each of them. I'll spray some gly hopefully this weekend or early next week.

So far I've got all the acorns I've collected in the fridge in plastic bags with moist soil.

To be sure that I read that correctly though, I don't need to put the mesh around the tree tubes if I do have mature bucks? Meaning 1-2 year olds would be the likely offenders and tear them up?

Thanks again for all the input! It is very much appreciated and will be put to use.

Steve Webb
 
Spiider said:
Thanks for all the input and advice! So the Forest Management link that I read about in the 30ish pages of this thread is no longer active, do you have any other places to recommend to buy from?

Also, did you just push those DCO's in the ground? Note taken on the set prep for each of them. I'll spray some gly hopefully this weekend or early next week.

To be sure that I read that correctly though, I don't need to put the mesh around the tree tubes if I do have mature bucks? Meaning 1-2 year olds would be the likely offenders and tear them up?

Steve Webb
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I'd think its mainly older bucks (no way to be for sure). Maybe it also has to do with resident bucks since they spend more time on a particular farm.

I have zero problems with bucks on my place, but there are no resident mature bucks...they only start showing up come mid October and stay thru the season.

I plant the acorns about 1-2" deep and dig up a spot for them and crumble the dirt back over top after the acorns are in place and the tube in also in place.

Try a few mesh tubes and see if they tear those up....just wanted you to be aware that they can be a problem for some.

You want the acorns in a baggie in damp peat...it helps guard against mold. Soil is not as good of an option, but can be used if you check the bags regularly.

What seedlings are you wanting to buy? The DCO's are also available by emailing to here...they are 20 per pound + shipping.

dconebraska@gmail.com
 
I just ordered some DCOs from DCONebraska. My question is, can I use my 5 foot tree tubes with these or do I need something shorter? I have noticed most mature DCO that I see are shrub like / mulit-trunked and wondered if a 5 foot tube is too high.

Thanks for the input.:way:
 
bowman said:
I just ordered some DCOs from DCONebraska. My question is, can I use my 5 foot tree tubes with these or do I need something shorter? I have noticed most mature DCO that I see are shrub like / mulit-trunked and wondered if a 5 foot tube is too high.

Thanks for the input.:way:
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I think they will bush out some on their own after coming out of the tube and also when you take the tube off them.

I prefer the 3' tube and put fencing on them after that so they grow more natural and end up looking like this. They can adjust tho so I do not think it is vital to have them in shrub form....they will grow to the light one way or the other.

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Bryan95 said:
Had a present waiting for me when I got home from school today!
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You will like those trays/pots!! I would also suggest getting the 18 cell express trays/cells so you can move seedlings around as needed. It comes in handy for sure. :way:
 
Just got my shipment of acorns from the Nebraska Arboretum and I have a couple questions:

1. About 1/3 of the Dwarf Chinkapin Oak acorns are starting to sprout. Will I still be fine to put them in a bag of damp peat moss and in the fridge and keep until late winter/early Spring, or, do I need to plant them now since they are already sprouting?

2. The Swamp White Oak acorns have a little fuzz of mold starting on them. I rinsed them off in water and have them in a bucket of water right now and they all sunk fine. Will they still be O.K.?
 
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