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Brassicas

Rich sent me some pics of his SE Iowa grown brassicas...a mix of turnips, Wintergreen's, sugarbeets and GroundHog forage radish

Great looking plot!

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Turnips have done well!

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Guess they like GroundHog forage radish's at Rich's farm too!

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Rich is a Realtor for Whitetail properties and you can watch him take a great buck on Realtree TV that airs in early October....thanks for sharing the pics Rich!:way:
 
Every year I run across someone who planted their brassicas way to late for them to amount to anything,simply because they were not aware of how and when to plant them. In most of the upper Midwest and northern areas brassicas (rape and turnips) should be planted mid July through early August for optimum yields...a little earlier in far north and a little later as you move south.

I always shoot for no later then mid July here in SE Iowa which leaves brassicas looking like this by October 1st

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Tall, healthy, lush well fed brassicas can produce a tremendous amount of high quality forage that will last well into early winter

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Late August plantings however yield very little by comparison and no roots at all will develop

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Earlier planted turnips can produce turnip roots the size of softballs and attract and hold deer well into late winter

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There always new plotters coming along to which all of this seems foreign and brand new so for their sake it's important to bring this information up so they can see the difference.

The only exception to all of this is GroundHog forage radish because it can be planted with rye in late August and put on tremendous growth in 45 days, so we have multiple options when planting radishes.... :way:
 
I always find fair tests to be interesting so I am always trying a little something different to substantiate what I have already learned over the years. The brassica test plots this year being in a spot where previously deer refused to take so much as a nibble and eventually this...

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turned to this...

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so one might expect to grow brassicas there simply to show what various varieties look like as they mature, however the GroundHog forage radish threw a monkey wrench in my plans, albeit a pleasant one.

The strip contained 3 different forage/tillage Daikon radishes, 2 varieties of rape and 4 varieties of turnips and since deer had grubbed the GHFR to the ground the previous fall it was no surprise when they did the same this year. What did surprise me is that after eating every lasts scrap of the forage radishes, roots and all...they started in on the rape plants!

Having adapted to feeding on the brassicas thanks to the radish plants deer have moved down the strip despite the presence of lush clover on one side and winter rye and peas on the other...leaving nothing but bare soil as they work their way up the strip.

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The ever dependable and inexpensive Dwarf Essex Rape is being grazed heavily now

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as is the Barnapoli rape

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While the Appin Turnips

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and Pasja Turnips are largely untouched thus far

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although if you look near the root on this plant you can see where they have been "taste testing" them also

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Some things to consider...

If deer already demolish your brassicas then adding the forage radishes and fertilizing for high yields simply gives you more growth and more potential grazing starting a little earlier in the fall. The forage radish plants may (emphasis on "may") keep deer focused on them which will allow turnip plants to grow and stockpile feed for later in the season

If on the other hand deer have so far refused to touch your previous brassica plants, adding forage radishes to your mix could very well change their minds and adapt them to feeding on them.

Many landowners still make the mistake of planting one food source to attract deer at only one time of year and then further aggravate the situation by killing the deer feeding in that food source.

If on your way home from work you noticed a $20 bill by the side of the road, i suspect there are few who would not stop and pick it up. Suppose another 20 us there the next day and the following and each day after...would you ever stop taking that route??

If the twenties stopped, perhaps you might change your route or see if the cash was now somewhere else and if at some point the bills appear again months later, you might never know it having now adapted to a different route.

Could be there are lots of bills laying around and a small crowd stops each day to pick them up only one day shots ring out and that happens every time you stop there....would that 20 be worth risking your life for.

Hopefully that analogy gives you the idea...we want to adapt deer to feeding in safe places on our property by keeping food sources there year around and then to the extent possible harvest these deer in travel corridors away from the food source itself. I make an exception during the late muzzy season here in Iowa when gaunt hungry bucks make their way to food sources during day light hours.

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Brassicas are just one tool in our food plot recipe and using a combination of radish, rape and turnips we can use them to keep deer well fed from August until well after the New Year.... :way:
 
Paul,
Don't forget mother nature.

I planted mine right on schedule and got 3" of rain and heat.

Replanted again and no rain.
Have growth but not as much as before.
Like you said though having a variety sure has helped and
next year I will plant even sooner. :way:




Every year I run across someone who planted their brassicas way to late for them to amount to anything,simply because they were not aware of how and when to plant them. In most of the upper Midwest and northern areas brassicas (rape and turnips) should be planted mid July through early August for optimum yields...a little earlier in far north and a little later as you move south.

I always shoot for no later then mid July here in SE Iowa which leaves brassicas looking like this by October 1st

IMG_0023.jpg


Tall, healthy, lush well fed brassicas can produce a tremendous amount of high quality forage that will last well into early winter

BiologicMax10-10.jpg


Late August plantings however yield very little by comparison and no roots at all will develop

IMG_0022.jpg


Earlier planted turnips can produce turnip roots the size of softballs and attract and hold deer well into late winter

IMG_0010-2.jpg


There always new plotters coming along to which all of this seems foreign and brand new so for their sake it's important to bring this information up so they can see the difference.

The only exception to all of this is GroundHog forage radish because it can be planted with rye in late August and put on tremendous growth in 45 days, so we have multiple options when planting radishes.... :way:
 
I planted mine right on schedule and got 3" of rain and heat.

Replanted again and no rain.

Don't feel like the Lone Ranger Tony...myself and a lot of other folks had the exact same problem, I just had some that got plant a different day, slightly different soil etc. and they survived but it's been a tough year for brassicas in much of Iowa...;)
 
This buck couldn't resist hitting the GroundHog forage radish several days in a row...

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and finally met his demise coming into the GHFR one time to many! The buck was taken by a very deserving lady and the harvest pics are posted on Outreach Outdoors.
Harvest Pics

They have plenty of food sources of all kinds but he obviously loved the GHFR....right up to the end...
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No rain here for almost 3 weeks and my brassicas are really wilting! Those huge leaves look like lettuce that has been left on the counter for several days! If we ever get rain - will they come back? Or are they in trouble once they start to go south.
 
No rain here for almost 3 weeks and my brassicas are really wilting! Those huge leaves look like lettuce that has been left on the counter for several days! If we ever get rain - will they come back? Or are they in trouble once they start to go south.

Depending on how extreme things get they will often send up new growth because the roots are deep into the moisture zone.

No rain in sight for SE Iowa though....;)
 
A friend of mine from back east sent this TC pic from his brassica plot....mentioned he planted the same brassica seed mix I do and obviously his deer approve! :D

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Looks like they are eagerly awaiting the apples to drop as well.... :way:
 
A friend of mine from back east sent this TC pic from his brassica plot....mentioned he planted the same brassica seed mix I do and obviously his deer approve! :D


Looks like they are eagerly awaiting the apples to drop as well.... :way:

Now that is a great plot!! Apples and brassicas all in one spot.
 
This is my second year growing brassicas and boy did I learn a lot from last year. Last year the biggest turnips I saw were around the size of baseballs. They were nice, but they had too much rain and I planted them too thick. The deer still fed in them all winter. This year I had optimal growing conditions and well, I think these two pictures speak for themselves that I am doing something right.

*disclaimer* I do not work for frigid forage, they are a sponsor and I have agreed to share some tips and help them with producing some footage of do's and don'ts etc.

While this isn't the widest turnip I found this is a good representative of what is in my plots overall.

It's as big as a hat! Obviously the turnip weighs more so it sits on the grass deeper while the hat floats on the grass.

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Just another angle to show the sheer size of them. Notice the hat is opened up nearly all the way.

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Some awesome looking turnips Hat Trick! :way:

October 23, 2010

I thought I had some darn nice Groundhog Forage Radish roots growing here in Iowa until...Mike sent a pic of his from WI...

Gieesh! :eek:

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Mike said he broke off 3-4" getting it out and of course the root hairs go down even deeper but either way there is a huge amount of tonnage in these things, not to mention the soil pulverizing that these babies are capable of!

This one has gotten huge and not too shabby for these old clay soils here at home

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Few others at random out in the mixed brassica plots (planted mid July, rape, turnips and radish)

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Now that the lush rye/radish plots are keeping the deer busy some of the roots are starting to sprout new foliage

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The GHFR that I planted in June and fenced surprisingly is still lush and has not went to seed!

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Tremendous amount of high quality forage and roots from these brassica plants that also scavenge nitrogen, pull up sub soil nutrients and loosen compacted soils to boot....hard to find fault with a crop like that.... ;)
 
The forecast called for a killing frost/freeze so I took pics of the Groundhog forage radish the day before....

This is the tallest plant of those planted in my garden area back in June

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I tried to get a pic of the height of the root but I needed a second person to hold back the leaves

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One root had some insect damage and broke off and I measured the top at roughly 4"

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By now i think everyone is pretty much aware that all the Daikon forage radish seed is all the same...all VNS (Variety Not Stated) so while they have trademark names like groundhog, trophy or tillage....the actual seed and plants are virtually one in the same.

Still...I planted seed from all three at varying times in different plots, all of which has long ago been devoured. These are the last samples planted in the garden and you can see there is no difference in any aspect of these plants.

Groundhog

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Trophy

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Tillage

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Next year when you order you forage radish seed...simply look for the least expensive option with the lowest shipping cost and you'll be good to go!

All these late plantings were done in early September BTW and I planted one row of GHFR next to one row of mixed brassicas (rape and turnips) just to compare height and growth rates and they are pretty much the same.

GHFR planted early September

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Mixed brassicas planted early September

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Despite crop fields littered with spilled grain and lush alfalfa 60 yards from out garden which is only feet from our house....deer have finally been stepping over the fence to forage on the GHFR

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The tell tale tracks leave little doubt who the midnight raiders were....

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October 29th we had temps down to 24 degrees and at daylight all our annual flowers were completely dead, yet the forage radish plants were barely wilted. I'll keep tabs on them this coming week or so and see how much cold weather they can take... :way:
 
There is....conventional till/planting, no-till planting and...no planting!

Conventional panting is still one of the most effective and common planting methods for most annual crops because it insures that the seed is placed at the correct depth and soil firmly pressed over and around the seed. The seed is in the soil moisture zone, germinates quickly and roots are able to reach nutrients and the plant grows rapidly.

No-till planting provides many of the same positives by utilizing a special coulter to cut through surface trash and till a very small path in front of that planter seed openers and packing wheels. Seed is still placed at the proper depth and effectively covered yet a great deal of time and expense saved with a simple one pass planting.

No planting (overseeding/broadcasting on untilled soil) requires virtually no equipment and the least expense but because seeds are on top of the soil there is often a high rate of failures. The seeds use up a great deal of energy attempting to send roots into the soil moisture area and without rain may not germinate at all. Frequently seeds may receive enough rainfall to germinate but then lack of continued moisture causes the seedling to die on the surface. Seeds are also exposed to predation by birds, rodents and even insects so there are many factors that can affect the success of a no planting type seeding.

When all conditions are prefect almost all seeds will germinate and grow when broadcast on the surface, but as we all know perfect weather conditions can not be predicted nor expected. Small seeds like brassicas and clovers tend to be more successful under difficult conditions then larger seeds and certain crop species work better then others. Winter rye tends to work better then oats or wheat for instance and under the right conditions peas and soybeans will germinate and grow far better then corn.

For food plot purposes clover, brassicas and cereal grains are the crops most commonly overseeded with no prior tillage and all can be successful plantings given acceptable weather conditions. We have all seen conventionally plant crops of all kinds fail because of adverse weather conditions and the odds of failure increase dramatically with overseeded non-planted crops.

Overseeding brassicas and/or rye into standing soybeans or corn is commonly done as the soil surface is already clean and seeds make soil/seed contact easily.

There often situations in areas inaccessible with equipment where no planting may be the only option and I have a degree of success by simply spraying sod grasses with roundup and broadcasting seeds as I did here with Groundhog forage radish.

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This happened to be a very narrow strip along the soybeans that had grown up to weeds and not meant to be an actual "plot" but merely an example of the possibles.

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While one can spray ahead of time I find the dying grasses and weeds give an element of protection at first by keeping seeds from being exposed to drying winds and sun. The vegetation slowly wilts and forms a form of mulch to help conserve surface moisture while the seedlings become established.

After seeds germinate and begin to grow then it is important to add nitrogen such as urea to the growing brassica plants although in this case I did not.

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In this case the weed stubble helped protect the growing brassicas from being grazed until they began to reach far above the dead weed stubble.

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Heavy clay soils or extremely droughty soils sometimes don't work as well as rich loamy soils for obvious reasons so every landowner may experience varying results year to year. I tend to use no planting only when overseeding into other crops, thin areas or inaccessible areas because yields/results are far better and dependable with conventional or no-till planting.

Tillage also allows for better incorporation of nitrogen to eliminate concerns about being at the mercy of the weather to incorporate the nitrogen. If seedlings struggle to long to reach moisture and nutrients they quickly become weak and permanently set back. Their attractiveness to whitetails then will be far less then healthy robust plants and I am unwilling to risk my entire habitat program by only no planting.

I do feel that everyone should take advantage of overseeding brassicas and rye into standing crops because the risk is minimal and the costs are very low. One already has a crop there so if the no planted seed doesn't do well it's not a total loss and with only seed and perhaps a little urea used, the costs are relatively low.

Give no planting a try next year in odd areas or standing crops and see how it works on your soils and then share your results with others.... :way:
 
November 8th, 2010

We've had freezing nights as low as 24 degrees and repeated hard freezing/frosts so it's always interesting to see what the various brassicas look like at this point.

The rape plants look healthy and dark green!

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Barnapoli Rape...remember rape plants do not form a root like turnips and are solely for forage purposes

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Dwarf Essex Rape ....both rape varieties had been grazed

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Appin Turnip tops

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Appin Turnip roots...not as large as Purple Tops

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Pasja Forage turnip (Hybrid) bred for forage rather then root production

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Pasja turnip root....relatively small

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Barkant Turnip top

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Barkant turnip root...great tops and root production!

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Purple Top Turnip tops...not quite as much forage as the other varieties

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Purple Top Turnip root...great root production!

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Once deer found the GroundHog forage radish in the garden they have begun to ravage the plants but they have been totally unaffected by the freezing weather.

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The September planted samples show the GHFR on the left being grazed and the mixed turnips and rape on the right not yet touched....I would recommend avoiding planting rape and turnips after late August and go with GHFR instead.

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In summary I think a good inexpensive brassica mix that everyone could reply on would be one that is made up of Purple Top turnips, Dwarf Essex Rape and Groundhog forage radish.

That mix would inexpensive, easily obtained, very reliable and would feed deer from August until the last turnip was eaten in late winter.
 
November 23rd, 2010

We're about to get night time temps down in the teens so it's always interesting to see how the brassicas do and how deer react to them. Obviously with temps into the 20's they have been well "frosted" and yet they still offer plenty of forage. These are pics from two different farms (they have been wiped out entirely at the third farm)

These were planted mid July, grazed heavily in late August and early September and then when the rye/pea/radish combo came on deer allowed the brassicas to recover and re-grow.

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The turnips have some substantial growth and these will be an important food source later this winter.

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The Groundhog Forage radish is still being grazed but also has recovered

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and it will be interesting to see how the roots last compared to the turnips. One reason that the forage radish is so adept at loosening compacted soil is because the root decomposes rapidly after the plant dies and that leaves a channel in which water flows and the freezing/thawing action pulverizes the soil and leaves it loose and mellow.

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This brassica strip contains individual species and varieties with Dwarf Essex Rape and Barnapoli Rape being in the foreground here. Note also there is white clover on the left and the rye/forage pea/forage radish combo on the right so they have loads of lush food to choose from along with harvested soybean and corn fields around the corner.

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The have been grazed but not wiped out like the GHFR

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The hybrid Appin and Pasja turnips still have awesome foliage that would be very attractive if deer were interested in them. They have so much feed on this farm that they have not touched them as of yet

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By contrast the Purple Top turnips have little forage but great root production making them a better component for late season food sources.

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Last fall we had temps down into the low teens in early November and that did the brassicas in a little earlier but this year they will last well into December. As soon as the plants wilt and die I'll dig up some roots and see what we ended up with for growth... ;)
 
Looking nice! I wish all my turnips still looked like that. One plot that is more secluded has been wiped out. No foliage, no stems and turnips and radishes eaten to the ground. The other plot, which is a little more open has been getting hit hard recently. There is still a lot left and I hope it can hold through till late season. I don't think I can plant enough of those things. We'll have to see next year. I plan on overseeding 5 acres of soybeans with em.:D
 
I plan on overseeding 5 acres of soybeans with em

Keep us posted on how that works out next fall! :way:

November 25th, 2010

The temp. dropped to 14 degrees this morning which took the forage radish from "frosted" to "froze"

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I kept these somewhat protected by planting them in the garden next to the house but deer finally discovered them and have been chowing down.

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Unlike the rich black prairie soils Iowa is known for, we live on very poor clay subsoil that was once woodland habitat. I hauled in some top soil for or garden but it's only a few inches deep yet the Groundhog forage radish thrived by adding urea to give it plenty of nitrogen.

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I decided to dig one of the forage radish roots up and see what it looked like?

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You can see the hard clay soil that I had to literally chip away from the root but it still had grown downward about 10" and of course way beyond that with the actual tap root.

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I finally chiseled the root out of the rock hard soil and measured it at around 20", note how the root is somewhat bulging where it tried to push it's way down but grew outward as it did.

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The actual root mass far exceeds that of most turnips which is interesting and of course the benefits to the soil are also much greater then with other brassicas.

For those that have had trouble getting deer to eat brassicas, the forage radishes are helpful in getting them to accept them. I planted some forage radish in a row and mixed brassicas in a row right beside them. Deer previously refused to eat the common brassicas but once they started feeding on the GHFR, they eventually started on the other brassicas.

GHFR...

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Mixed brassicas

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Regardless of which brassica seed mix you choose next summer I would consider adding GroundHog Forage Radish to your planting because it is not only irresistible to whitetails but also has awesome soil building attributes as well.... :way:
 
Dbltree, you never stop amazing me with your comparisons and indepth analysis of food plots. Amazing write up as usual.

If you were going to "classify" GHFR in terms of seasons, would you call it an "early season brassica"? Seems you talk about the deer getting into these earlier than the rest of the rapes and turnips.
 
Dbltree, you never stop amazing me with your comparisons and indepth analysis of food plots. Amazing write up as usual.

If you were going to "classify" GHFR in terms of seasons, would you call it an "early season brassica"? Seems you talk about the deer getting into these earlier than the rest of the rapes and turnips.

The Groundhog Forage Radish is really a very versatile brassica because it is fast growing it is one of the few that can be effective planted with winter rye. On the other hand because it doesn't mature and go to seed quickly it can also be planted with rape and turnips in mid July.

It grows roughly to the same heights as the other brassicas and produces a tremendous amount of root tonnage (I think more then turnips possibly).

The difference is that deer love it...why I can't say but obviously it simply tastes better which makes it a little like soybeans, it's possible they could wipe it out if planted alone.

Mixing it with other brassicas (or winter rye) seems to be the most effective way to utilize GHFR because they will focus on it and allow the other brassicas to grow.

So I guess you could say it is both early and late season....pretty adaptable! :)
 
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