Tmayer13
Well-Known Member
And for those that are spraying the clover are you just using the recommended rate of gly? Say 2 qts/acre? or mixing heavy because clover is difficult to kill? My clover is spring planted crimson
Kill the clover. I go 4q/a gly. That's really heavy. If problematic weeds other options... Liberty. If can't get liberty.... Roundup & 2,4-D. If going that route.... realize the residual and hold off planting for 10 days. The "free" nitrogen will be in soil upon clover termination.
Tmayer13
Well-Known Member
so im assuming that the 24d residual is from contact with soil. So does that mean after I spray and let everything die, i have to wait 10 days or so and then til and plant or til then wait 10 days to plant? My farms arent too terribly close so time is of the essence for me i guess.
1-2 quarts per acre on 2,4-d. I usually go 2. With brassicas, I till, cultipack, seed, cultipack same day. This is all 7-10 days after spraying. Skip said 4-5 days, so maybe 10 is overkill, but I know that is safe.
There was a discussion about turflan a few months ago. I have not used but appears to be a good option.
U wanna put pre emergents down right when u plant or around that time. So- u for sure are not late to the game!!! Treflan or whatever does look like a good fit. If u gonna tear stuff up (so not utilizing no till drill) - pre’s would be very nice. Otherwise- clethodim & crop oil on grasses 2-3 weeks after germination if needed if don’t do pre emergent.
I just read the Treflan label, maybe I’m overalls cautious but it doesn’t say it will work with turnips/radish. Says it will work to prevent wild radish and wild turnips from germinating. We no till everything. So organic matter is pretty heavy. Sounds like this product doesn’t so well with OM. Was also looking at prowl h20. Was just thinking I needed to put that down earlier this spring. Or it may prevent the brassicas from germinating.
Gly, AMS, & 2,4-d can be mixed. Crop oil not needed.
Jbohn
Well-Known Member
I remember a few weeks ago some one was asking about different radishes vs. Ground hog Radish I think you look at it 2 ways what's good for the deer and what is good for your soil.. I remember Paul talking about the difference on the soils. Found this reading up.. Wanted to share might make you want to spend the extra money on Ground Hog Radish.
GroundHog Radish produces more root mass than oil seed radish or mustards. This extra large root system allows GroundHog to pull Nitrogen and nutrients deep within the soil and bring them back to the surface. GroundHog Radish will scavenge other nutrients as well and can also be used for weed suppression.
This might help you make a decision that's right for you.
GroundHog Radish produces more root mass than oil seed radish or mustards. This extra large root system allows GroundHog to pull Nitrogen and nutrients deep within the soil and bring them back to the surface. GroundHog Radish will scavenge other nutrients as well and can also be used for weed suppression.
This might help you make a decision that's right for you.
KSHUNTER
PMA Member
Got my brassica plot prepped this week, as you can see we are a little dry, but hoping to catch some rain and have my seed bed ready to go. I am in SE Kansas, so I am still a little early for planting. Enlisted my nephew for help, I tilled under a white clover patch and then put down about 350# of 19-19-19 and 80# of urea( it about an acre patch), he is going over it the second time getting the fertilizer worked under. The white clover patch was pretty good last year, but was in pretty bad shape as dry as it has been, so I decided not to give much credit to any nitrogen it would fix, it was burnt up pretty bad, I don't know how/if it affected the fertilizer value, so I played the safer bet and added plenty of N.
Hard to see, but have the cultipacker hooked up to run over it, I will be looking to broadcast turnips and GFR the last week of July or first week of August. Even though it is the dog days of summer I love getting out there and getting ready for the season, season will roll around before we know it.
Hard to see, but have the cultipacker hooked up to run over it, I will be looking to broadcast turnips and GFR the last week of July or first week of August. Even though it is the dog days of summer I love getting out there and getting ready for the season, season will roll around before we know it.
300#/a urea. That puts you just under 150# actual. Adjust down if doing 6-24-24 or similar to get PK correct. Make sure PH is right, or dumping money down drain. I reduce rate above by half if going into terminated clover or beans.
Tmayer13
Well-Known Member
If it was me id put 3 bags of 46-0-0 on it....obviously clover fixes nitrogen but you say that your clover is not very good. Well its said in this thread that good clover can fix upwards of 100 units of nitrogen, so yours only fixes 30....well that means with 3 bags and the clover youd be very close to 100 units, which should be plenty to grow good brassicas....with that being said im putting 4 bags on my clover ground...and my clover was very good...im hoping ill be in that 150+ units range...we shall see! if we dont get some rain soon we wont have to worry about it much!!
risto2351
Well-Known Member
I sorta understand. In the above post he says to use 300# urea/acre. Urea is 46-0-0, which means 100 actual dry weight pounds of urea will give you 46% N. 200 lbs. actual dry weight will give you 92% urea. So that being said to get 300# urea/acre I will need actually 600# actual dry weight of urea to achieve that? I think that is correct?
Tmayer13
Well-Known Member
yes your math is correct. But he is saying 300# of urea. So 6 bags of urea will give you 150#(roughly) actual. So basically there are 46 units of N per 100 lbs. So 2 bags is 46 units(lbs). 1 bag has 23 units(lbs). But that is also on the high side, but I know rob and he spares nothing when it comes to his plots and trust me it shows! I would bet that you could grow a pretty good crop of brassicas (especially on clover ground) with 3 bags, so 150# of urea which is roughly 70# of actual nitrogen. Obviously this is all per acre!!!