northcedar
Well-Known Member
They'll still set a bunch of seed even if you mow them. Is it too big of a spot to walk?
aaron bradt
New Member
So this last week we reseeded our plots hoping to catch this next rain. We put in some strips of rye and took a chance with a variety of radish. Is it too late for radish planting to have meaningful forage for Oct and Nov?
Not at all. Wont make big bulbs but will def make a lot of forage.
Khughes2345
PMA Member
So if I have pigweed coming up all over with the brassicas I can just mow the tops off? Everything is about the same height right now. Will the pigweed eventually die off here? We did just get about 2” rain on it.
Pigweed is a rascal to deal with. Here’s ur options, like above.... 1) mow it over the brassicas- don’t hit brassicas ideally and that looks like a task or very difficult based on pics (radish could take mow better than PTT). Running over sure ain’t good but most will bounce back if u even take that path. 2) hand weed it. Yes - I said it. Yes- I’ve done it. Yes I’ve done it this year. Will most people do it? No. 3) let it go. It’s almost to end of growing season & should die down.
none of 3 are great options- I admit. In future- to avoid this....
1) no till
2) mowed clover or clean beans going into brassicas. After u run dbltree rotation a few years - these weeds will be way less an issue.
3) Treflan herbicide.
4) prep ground early. Let’s say u wanted to plant “July 29” for example. I’d have it ready maybe July 10-15...... let it rain & nuke regrowth of weeds. Then spray again when plant. (Heavy Gly + ams especially when dealing with pigweed or waterhemp, etc). U will start ur brassica growth with a flush of weeds (the worst one) wiped out..... if weeds gonna be issue- I like 2 Gly sprayings so 1st & worst flush of weeds gets roasted.
Khughes2345
PMA Member
Thanks for the input. I have hand weeded a field this size before but it was all buttonweed that was quite a bit taller than the turnips and radish. I don’t think I’m going to mow it, just gonna let it runs it’s course this year. I plan on doing dbltree rotation for this field. Other half of this field is bare right now. Planting oats, rye and radish as soon as possible.
I tried planting beans in this field this year, bag was 2-3 years old unopened. Not one bean came up, lesson learned don’t plant old beans. So I’ve been dealing with the weeds in here since June, and have definitely over tilled it so not really surprising I’m dealing with more weeds
I tried planting beans in this field this year, bag was 2-3 years old unopened. Not one bean came up, lesson learned don’t plant old beans. So I’ve been dealing with the weeds in here since June, and have definitely over tilled it so not really surprising I’m dealing with more weeds
Wi transplant
PMA Member
Look up a product called grow coat its a powder coating that you put on any seed before you plant! So you can use the non buck on a bag seed with great results !!! I swear buy it been using for years ! Put on all my seeds!!
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Wi transplant
PMA Member
Changed name a little since I bought my pail!
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Wi transplant
PMA Member
Not directly side buy side but I did lots of food plots for over 15 yrs and just seems to make a nice difference! Especially on the small seeds ! Ex. Clovers. Brassicas. Never used on corn n beans. For the cost per plot when bought in a small pail I figured its worth it. I just sprinkle a small amount over seeds in my bag seeder and zip closed and shake it up to coat all seeds. I have no affiliation with them ! Just passing along!
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Here’s what I got so far... 2 mins of digging. So- the way i understand label & their description... micronutrient coating.... basically a form of fertilizer. “Gets plants going faster”. Can see them explain this.
This, as I read it, is very different than inoculant. Which inoculant, like most of which is used on legumes, is rhizobacteria which- all that is- a bacteria that allows plants to Fix (create, capture & modulate) nitrogen. So- inoculant would also be needed.
On this one, don’t see anything about “moisture holding” so - maybe different than previously mentioned.
So- just trying to put out what I’m reading on this. For sure worth a shot & if folks having good results with this- fantastic!
*side note.... my plots all look about perfect in drought vs neighbors or most others in drought region. Is it the no-till or Low till, organic matter, years of rotations? Probably. Could it also be, based on above ingredients of this coating... the fact that I’ve applied zinc, sulfur & other micronutrients? I guess that kinda makes sense based on ingredients of seed coat & rationale/possible results.
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Iowa Hunter
New Member
I live in Iowa planted Big And Beasty but had some residual Buckwheat come up to around July 26th if you missed that date by like one week you probably didn't get any rain, tough year mine are up around 10" and burned some out, I even have it fenced off, another plot i planted same thing first part of Aug, germinated then smoked the whole food plot, bare dirt, 7 days ago went in hard with cereal rye and oats, had 4 days of rain finally totally 2 1/2 " but no more in sight, hit my brassica plots hard with urea before the Rain, not sure if they will make turnips this year ?
Thing aren't even looking good for plan B
Sometimes your the Bug and Sometimes your the Windshield !!
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Iowa Hunter
New Member
https://www.youtube.com/user/lbriant48I live in Iowa planted Big And Beasty but had some residual Buckwheat come up to around July 26th if you missed that date by like one week you probably didn't get any rain, tough year mine are up around 10" and burned some out, I even have it fenced off, another plot i planted same thing first part of Aug, germinated then smoked the whole food plot, bare dirt, 7 days ago went in hard with cereal rye and oats, had 4 days of rain finally totally 2 1/2 " but no more in sight, hit my brassica plots hard with urea before the Rain, not sure if they will make turnips this year ?
Thing aren't even looking good for plan B
Sometimes your the Bug and Sometimes your the Windshield !!
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Amazing what some rain will do. This was planted August 5. Fertilized at 100-50-50 per acre (actual) which was like 500 lbs of material per acre.
I found an incredible fast way to plant brassicas. My wife sat on back of UTV cranking seeder while I drove 10-12 mph. I had weighed the seed out ahead of time and had a little bit left over when done. We did this in the dark as I was in mad scramble mode. Only missed a couple spots!
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I found an incredible fast way to plant brassicas. My wife sat on back of UTV cranking seeder while I drove 10-12 mph. I had weighed the seed out ahead of time and had a little bit left over when done. We did this in the dark as I was in mad scramble mode. Only missed a couple spots!
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Khughes2345
PMA Member
^ looks awesome! Ours are turning out pretty nice too. We had over 6” few weeks ago
As u go out now & see clean but dead &
Rotting brassicas - what should be there now???
Depends on what u want there but your answer will be one of these 4:
1) If u want to keep in Dbltree rotation: CLOVERS! Red, 1-2 whites. Maybe Alsike or crimson, frosty berseem or balansa. Could be a premade blend but make sure u get it thicker (due to brassica alleopathic effect) & a variety. Still time to broadcast.
2) soybeans to be rotated out later.
3) no till corn.
4) u do have other soil building options of above 3 aren’t in the program.
Do NOT just let it sit there bare for “3 more months” though. Good luck!
Rotting brassicas - what should be there now???
Depends on what u want there but your answer will be one of these 4:
1) If u want to keep in Dbltree rotation: CLOVERS! Red, 1-2 whites. Maybe Alsike or crimson, frosty berseem or balansa. Could be a premade blend but make sure u get it thicker (due to brassica alleopathic effect) & a variety. Still time to broadcast.
2) soybeans to be rotated out later.
3) no till corn.
4) u do have other soil building options of above 3 aren’t in the program.
Do NOT just let it sit there bare for “3 more months” though. Good luck!
Making fall.plot plans as it will be here before we know it.
I have always tilled, broadcast, and packed.
I have moved to almost all no till this year.
For those that have DRILLED brasiccas.... talk to me. Lessons learned?
I am concerned about turnips settling to bottom of seed box, dialing down seed rate enough, etc.
I have always tilled, broadcast, and packed.
I have moved to almost all no till this year.
For those that have DRILLED brasiccas.... talk to me. Lessons learned?
I am concerned about turnips settling to bottom of seed box, dialing down seed rate enough, etc.
Daver
PMA Member
Are you by chance following buckwheat with your brassicas? Because if so, you should be able to broadcast the brassica, mow or smash the buckwheat and then be good...all no till.
Nope. Some are new plots. Some are into beans that have been hammered.
Too deep is major issue with drill. I think my favorite “no till” method is to use cultimulcher into a totally smoked seed bed. But hauling cultipacker/mulcher is pain! Drill- go slow & make sure the depth is not too deep. & clearly make sure seed rate doesn’t go out too heavy.
I even like broadcasting or drilling into open canopy or destroyed grain like corn or beans.
The obvious- premium fertility &/or quality soil are game changers.
So many advantages to doing no till if u can work through those issues.
All advanced with no-till: Weeds, moisture, soil building/erosion issues, soil ecology, etc.
Be in great shape done right. Heck- in any case, however planted, check back with a bag spreader to fill in sparse areas & watch for weeds & folks will be golden.
I even like broadcasting or drilling into open canopy or destroyed grain like corn or beans.
The obvious- premium fertility &/or quality soil are game changers.
So many advantages to doing no till if u can work through those issues.
All advanced with no-till: Weeds, moisture, soil building/erosion issues, soil ecology, etc.
Be in great shape done right. Heck- in any case, however planted, check back with a bag spreader to fill in sparse areas & watch for weeds & folks will be golden.