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Cereal Grains and cover crops

When I plant the cereal grain combo into my oat/berseem tilled field,do I still plant the same recommended oats as per your guide? Or will the extra oat seed just be a bonus?

You may not need any oats at all if you can mow the oats just before planting and till them in..usually that will provide way more then enough oat seed.

I sometimes rotate between brassica and soybeans in some of my fields instead of the rye/clover mix, you see any problem with this? I always have some white clover somewhere nearby but I really like fields of brassica and soybeans side by side during the rut and then in shotgun season. I has been a killer combo for me.

Not a thing wrong with it if you are in an area where you can grow soybeans without having them decimated. Just rotate the two and you can overseed the soybeans with winter rye when they start to yellow for an added food source and an outstanding cover crop if you like.

In my area, soybeans are quickly wiped out so they just don't fit anymore and unless winters are bitter cold and snow deep they may not feed on them, preferring the green forage instead. If the combo is working for you by all means keep using it to safely and effectively rotate your crops. :way:
 
June 29th, 2012

Where I have an established crop rotation in place, I have begun to mow standing rye straw in preparation for planting brassicas in a few weeks

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In some cases I mowed it in mid May but in others I sprayed or just left it standing until fawns were old enough that they will run at the sound of the machine and in each field fawns did indeed bolt from their hiding places in the standing rye and red clover

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Organic matter is not just "words" but a crucial part of successfully raising healthy crops consistently regardless of weather conditions and winter rye is one of the most well known cover crops that is also able to provide a fall, winter and spring food source under the most inclement conditions. The root systems of cereal rye are amazing and the straw on the surface helps hold moisture and stem wind and water erosion along with improving soil tilth and crop yields.

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Adding red clover to the rye mix in the fall adds a legume component that picks up where rye leaves off both in added organic matter and as a bonus fixes nitrogen for the next crop....all the while feeding hungry whitetails in early spring and summer when lactating does and bucks developing antlers need it most....

r5-3.jpg


I will till this beautiful mass of clover and straw under in mid July to incorporate nitrogen (urea) before planting brassicas...Ideally I would love to spray and no-till but I do not have a source for ammonium nitrate or urease treated urea.

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In time, as organic matter increases...I may be able to rely on the N from the killed legumes alone and avoid the use of synthetic nitrogen altogether but for now...till I must.

Winter rye and clovers...like PB&J...made to go together, perfect companions for both attracting and holding whitetails and building soils at the same time...

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If you need a temporary screen...leave some winter rye standing thru mid summer....

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Winter rye and red clover are only parts of my fall mix and that is only part of my feeding program but together they all help improve the soils on the farms I manage and insure that whitetails will become adapted to feeding there 365 days a year. The value of building high organic matter soils can not be underestimated and this year is no exception with much of the nation staring down the barrel at a very serious drought. Your food plot won't be worth a hill of beans...dead...and deer are mighty tough to kill on the neighbors place.

Consider a crop rotation such as the following to keep from ending up between a rock....and a hard place....;)


Plant ALL in one plot in strips or blocks

Alice, Kopu II, Durana (or comparable) white clover 10% of plot, sow at 6#'s per acre with the rye combination in the fall or in the spring with oats and berseem clover. Correct Ph and P&K with soil tests

Brassicas in 45% of plot

Purple Top Turnips 3#
Dwarf Essex Rape 2#
GroundHog Forage radish 5#

Plant in mid to late July in most Midwest states, or 60-90 days before your first killing frost, Use 200#'s of 46-0-0 urea and 400#'s of 6-28-28 per acre. Follow the dead brassicas with oats and berseem or crimson clover in mid spring at 60#'s oats and 12-15#'s berseem clover and/or 50#'s of chickling vetch)

Cereal Grain combo in 45% of plot

Winter rye 50-80#'s per acre (56#'s = a bushel)
Spring oats 80-120#'s per acre (32#'s = a bushel)
Austrian Winter Peas or 4010/6040 Forage peas 20-80#'s per acre
Red Clover 8-12#'s per acre or white clover at 6#'s per acre (or 20-40 pounds hairy vetch and 20-30#'s crimson clover on sandy soils)
Groundhog Forage Radish 5#'s per acre

Plant in late August to early September, if following well fertilized brassicas use 100 - 200#'s of urea, if starting a new plot add 400#'s of 6-28-28

Rotate the brassicas and rye combo each year
 
Fall rye 50-80#'s per acre (Fall rye grain, Winter Rye, Cereal rye)
Spring oats 60-100#'s per acre (any oats are fine )
Austrian Winter Peas or Field Peas at 20-100#'s per acre
Ground Hog Forage Radish 5#'s per acre
Red Clover at 8-12#'s per acre (I prefer Alta Swede Mammouth RC for a plow down

Im going to put this to the test on 2 acres ordering the seed from Welter I'll keep you posted, Thanks !!!!! I love the Idea no work on the plot in the spring. Living 800 miles away this is what I am looking for.
 
July 3rd, 2012

Oats and annual clovers...what a beautiful combination to follow spent brassicas or get new feeding areas established in the spring!

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The berseem clovers are the white flowers and crimson of course the red but both are outstanding legume cover crops

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that just happen to be very attractive to whitetails to boot!

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and the cam pics don't lie

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despite being only a short distance from young growing soybeans, whitetails are hammering the lush clovers

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and unlike the soybeans, clovers can take the pounding that hungry whitetails can give a feeding area

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these annual clovers are not only feeding whitetails but when i till them under for the rye mix in late august, they will add tons of biomass and 50-120#'s of nitrogen for the rye mix

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In mid July the feeding area will be divided into strips of brassicas and in late August the rest will be in rye/oats/peas/radish and red clover....all of it hidden behind an Egyptian Wheat screen 8-12' high!

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With food sources in this feeding area 365 days a year, the landowner isn't worried if these deer will be there or not because they are adapted to finding their needs met in one place, every day and unlike corn or soybeans....they can't decimate it thanks to the various clovers in the following combinations.... :way:


Plant ALL in one plot in strips or blocks

Alice, Kopu II, Durana (or comparable) white clover 10% of plot, sow at 6#'s per acre with the rye combination in the fall or in the spring with oats and berseem clover. Correct Ph and P&K with soil tests

Brassicas in 45% of plot

Purple Top Turnips 3#
Dwarf Essex Rape 2#
GroundHog Forage radish 5#

Plant in mid to late July in most Midwest states, or 60-90 days before your first killing frost, Use 200#'s of 46-0-0 urea and 400#'s of 6-28-28 per acre. Follow the dead brassicas with oats and berseem or crimson clover in mid spring at 60#'s oats and 12-15#'s berseem clover and/or 50#'s of chickling vetch)

Cereal Grain combo in 45% of plot

Winter rye 50-80#'s per acre (56#'s = a bushel)
Spring oats 80-120#'s per acre (32#'s = a bushel)
Austrian Winter Peas or 4010/6040 Forage peas 20-80#'s per acre
Red Clover 8-12#'s per acre or white clover at 6#'s per acre (or 20-40 pounds hairy vetch and 20-30#'s crimson clover on sandy soils)
Groundhog Forage Radish 5#'s per acre

Plant in late August to early September, if following well fertilized brassicas use 100 - 200#'s of urea, if starting a new plot add 400#'s of 6-28-28

Rotate the brassicas and rye combo each year
 
To spread or drill?

Paul,

I will be planting my brassicas late next week here in SD. I plan on tilling in my fertilizer and clover. Are you typically running a cultipacker prior to, and then again after the spreading of seed(as you do with clover). I could use the drill but my fear is getting the seed shallow enough after tilling. I could prop it up with cylinder stops and just one pass it with the drill. Any thoughts or experience? Thanks again!
 
Paul,

I will be planting my brassicas late next week here in SD. I plan on tilling in my fertilizer and clover. Are you typically running a cultipacker prior to, and then again after the spreading of seed(as you do with clover). I could use the drill but my fear is getting the seed shallow enough after tilling. I could prop it up with cylinder stops and just one pass it with the drill. Any thoughts or experience? Thanks again!

Yes...pack, spread seed and re-pack...I will be using a drill but will still pack first to avoid drilling to deep.
 
I have some oats that have matured and come to seed. Was wondering if I mowed it down and turned the soil would the oat seed germinate? Planning to mix some rye and forage peas into it. Thanks.
 
I have some oats that have matured and come to seed. Was wondering if I mowed it down and turned the soil would the oat seed germinate? Planning to mix some rye and forage peas into it. Thanks.

You betcha! I wait til late August, shred them with the brush cutter, till them under and plant the rye mix minus the oats because there will be more then enough from the free seed from the shattered oats....:way:
 
July 23rd, 2012

The drought of 2012 is being compared by old timers to those in 77’, 88’ and even the Dust Bowl days of the 1930’s, it is serious and widespread covering over 70% of the nation. 90% of our nations farmers utilize crop insurance to insure against total financial loss but for landowners hoping to hold whitetails on their property, it is more than a monetary loss…no food, no whitetails.

U.S. Drought Monitor

Currently 100% of Iowa is in a moderate to severe drought but that pales in comparison to Indiana!

midwest_dm.png


For years I have shared the importance of planting cover crops that help build organic matter, pull up sub soil nutrients, scavenge or fix nitrogen, naturally control weeds and do all of that while feeding whitetails...year around. To many the "soil part" seemed unimportant, that is until now when they find themselves staring at dirt plot thanks to low OM soils and drought conditions.

I shared in the brassica thread a field that was split in two, where winter rye and red clover was planted last fall and oats and berseem this spring on sod that had not been tilled in years. The difference in soil moisture was stark and dramatic with the rye/clover side still containing plentiful soil moisture despite the drought.

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The value of the winter rye/red clover combination can not be underestimated

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for whitetails and for building soils

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These pics are all in spite of the drought

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and both standing or mowed rye/red clover combos

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The rye root systems are immense and act like a sponge, holding both water and soil nutrients

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the clovers thrive in this environment and insure that whitetails have plenty of very palatable, high quality, high protein food sources all spring and summer.

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the clovers are of course fixing nitrogen that can be utilized by the next crop

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and the combination helps keep fields weed free

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It is hard to come up with a more economical food source that also feeds our soils at the same time

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As I was tilling under this great combination, in every field...fawns bounded from the thick cover where predators prefer not to hunt

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Perhaps...you are blessed to live an area unaffected by drought...this year, but it is only a matter of time because no one is spared this natural but disastrous calamity that will leave you staring at empty, lifeless fields this fall. We can have our own form of "crop insurance" so to speak by planting multiple crop types, all in one field and then rotating them to help build beautiful high organic matter soils that can keep crops growing in very difficult conditions. Even if one fails...another will survive, all the more reason to not "put all our eggs in one basket".

Look around you...corn and soybeans on rich high organic matter soils are plugging along while those on low OM soils are...toast. Last years drought was also severe in my area, yet in every field when all else failed...winter rye attracted and held whitetails all fall, winter and spring....keep that in mind when your up against the fall this fall because rye it seems...can grow on a brick....

Plant ALL in one plot in strips or blocks

Alice, Kopu II, Durana (or comparable) white clover 10% of plot, sow at 6#'s per acre with the rye combination in the fall or in the spring with oats and berseem clover. Correct Ph and P&K with soil tests

Brassicas in 45% of plot

Purple Top Turnips 3#
Dwarf Essex Rape 2#
GroundHog Forage radish 5#

Plant in mid to late July in most Midwest states, or 60-90 days before your first killing frost, Use 200#'s of 46-0-0 urea and 400#'s of 6-28-28 per acre. Follow the dead brassicas with oats and berseem or crimson clover in mid spring at 60#'s oats and 12-15#'s berseem clover and/or 50#'s of chickling vetch)

Cereal Grain combo in 45% of plot

Winter rye 50-80#'s per acre (56#'s = a bushel)
Spring oats 80-120#'s per acre (32#'s = a bushel)
Austrian Winter Peas or 4010/6040 Forage peas 20-80#'s per acre
Red Clover 8-12#'s per acre or white clover at 6#'s per acre (or 20-40 pounds hairy vetch and 20-30#'s crimson clover on sandy soils)
Groundhog Forage Radish 5#'s per acre

Plant in late August to early September, if following well fertilized brassicas use 100 - 200#'s of urea, if starting a new plot add 400#'s of 6-28-28

Rotate the brassicas and rye combo each year
 
I am going to put in my first food plot this fall. I have an area that is about an acre to work with. I am wanting to put the whole acre in the rye mix this fall and then start the strip plotting next year.

The only potentail problem is all i have to work the soil with is the groundhog atv disc. I am afraid i will not get the forage peas covered enough and they will not sprout. Or will they germinate and grow with just being packed with the atv tires? I don't want to waste money on seed and shipping if it won't germinate.

Paul thanks for sharing all of your knowledge on here. If it wasn't for your threads i would simply have went out and bought some BOB seed and this would have only been a fall hunting plot. The deer on this farm willl appreciate your knowledge!
 
I am going to put in my first food plot this fall. I have an area that is about an acre to work with. I am wanting to put the whole acre in the rye mix this fall and then start the strip plotting next year.

The only potentail problem is all i have to work the soil with is the groundhog atv disc. I am afraid i will not get the forage peas covered enough and they will not sprout. Or will they germinate and grow with just being packed with the atv tires? I don't want to waste money on seed and shipping if it won't germinate.

Paul thanks for sharing all of your knowledge on here. If it wasn't for your threads i would simply have went out and bought some BOB seed and this would have only been a fall hunting plot. The deer on this farm willl appreciate your knowledge!

It's all about rain, peas will germinate and grow right on top with enough rain and good subsoil moisture so if you can lightly cover them at all and then pack with ATV tires you should be good to go...assuming you get some kind of decent rainfall in following days/weeks :way:
 
Sounds like i should be go ahead and add them.

Rain shouldn't be a problem, its dry here, but not like it is out there for you guys. I was at the farm i hunt monday and the corn is 8' tall will fully pollinated ears that are starting to fill out nicely, and the beans had all set full pods. The plot is going in a bottom area right next to a creek and september is usually good to us with rain. I am actually more worried about too much rain in the location.

Thanks for the reply!
 
Cover Crops

Virtually every crop you see in my crop combinations for whitetails also just happen to be used for....cover crops that farmers use to vastly improve their soils in a variety of ways. It just so happens that whitetails love the very crops that build soils and increasingly farmers have learned to take advantage of these forages to graze livestock thru the fall, winter and early spring months.

Recently I had the pleasure of attending a Cover Crop Seminar put on by Green Valley Seeds in Kahoka, MO where I was able to listen to a number of university professors sharing their test results and on of those was Dr. Joel Gruver from WIU.

From that I will share just a few high points that came from the seminar and links to more information because on of the first things Joel shared was a slide showing the frequency of early summer droughts dating back to the 40's. Building organic matter helps farmers through drought periods, although in extreme cases failure is bound to happen regardless of how good the soil is.

Here is a link to a great number of Dr. Gruver's slide presentations for those interested in learning more

Dr. Joel Gruver's Slide Presentations

another interesting source of information where Dr. Gruver, Steve Groff and others post frequently is "Ag Talk" and the crop section can be searched to find relevant information "radish" " cereal rye" "cover crops" for instance...

Ag Talk

Yet another source for cover crop information is Plant Cover Crops.com where Dave Robison has put together a great amount of information and some awesome videos.

Plant Cover Crops

His videos can be found on YouTube under "covercropdave"

Covercropdave videos

The following are various links to articles and videos including a few from Dave's site and because many landowners may be involved in ag cropping their farm and utilizing manure, there are links on those subjects as well...note...do not be confused by annual rye grass and cereal rye (winter rye/fall rye grain)...annual ryegrass is sometimes used by farmers but it is by an large not recommended for reasons I will share later.

Cereal Rye and Manure

Rye and manure

Cereal rye and radish

This one is great...cereal rye roots 40" deep and soybeans following them...no-till beans!

Cereal rye and soybeans

I love rye! :)

Using rye, oats and brassicas in corn

Big Cover Crop Radishes--Are they good or not so good?

Radish and Crimson Clover Cover Crop Mix

Radish Pea Mixture Cover Crop excellence

Corn planted into Cereal Rye cover crop

There are reams and reams of information on cover crops and a zillion different experiences with each with positive and negative results across the nation much of which may or may not affect us when growing cover crops for deer. In other words we can hand seed/broadcast by hand seeds while crop farmers need to use aerial applications, high wheeled sprayer/spreader rigs, combine headers equipped with drop seeders etc etc. We can also simply "plant" our crops at the best time without having to plant them into standing corn and beans...so some problems are not a problem at all for us.

Of all the cover crops discussed, the one with the most problems was annual ryegrass...it produces little or sometimes no above ground forage (depending on variety and area planted), very little if any above ground biomass, is extremely difficult to kill (in some cases two applications of glyphosate did not kill it!!), winter kills and in general is like planting lawn grass in your food plot!

On the other hand cereal rye (winter rye) produced more above and below ground biomass then almost any other cover crop, produces tons of very palatable forage, puts down roots as deep as four feet and scavenges nitrogen...the last part being critical because while other cops scavenge N...they winter kill and release the N way before another crop can utilize them.

Cereal rye then is the backbone or main workhorse used in many cover crop programs both as a cover crop and a forage for livestock which is of course the reason I use it as the number one crop in my fall cereal mix.

Oats are a favored spring and fall forage crop by livestockmen because it produces a tremendous amount of high quality forage in the fall but will eventually freeze out and not have to be dealt with in the spring

Winter peas a nitrogen fixing legume capable of fixing a large amount of N and provide very high quality, very attractive forage at the same time. We will be using Frostmaster Winter Peas this year...FM is a white flowered, low tannin pea that is extremely sweet and attractive to deer and livestock.

Forage Radish much ado about radishes and as you can read in many of the videos and links, some of it is hype and competition for your business but in short one thing that was mentioned is that 1" radishes really were more productive in many cases then the "state fair" radishes that everyone likes to show off. In 45 days a radish plant can put down 40" of root but two things are critical...they must be planted in late August thru the 1st week of September to achieve any appreciable growth...those planted September 15th and later were usually a waste of seed money.

Secondly...radishes need a bare minimum of 20#'s of nitrogen to be able to have the energy to do what we hope they will...with no N, again they may achieve little for soils or deer. One method is to put at least 100#'s of DAP (Diammonium Phosphate) which is 18 percent nitrogen and 46 percent phosphate and kill two birds with one stone so to speak.

DAP Info

Red Clover a very common cover crop ingredient with farmers and some farmers have been growing corn on corn for years by aerial seeding red clover into standing corn, then drilling rye into the stubble in the fall. In my mix red clover is simply planted with the rye mix and does it's job by suffocating weeds the following spring, feeding deer thru the summer and all the time fixing nitrogen for the next crop of brassicas.

Crimson Clover a quick growing annual clover that also fixes a great deal of N and is very palatable to deer.

Turnips it is interesting that with all the hype about radishes, turnips actually scavenge more N and are an oft used cover crop component .

Hairy Vetch the king of nitrogen production and and outstanding addition to a cereal rye mix...perfect for a late spring planting of milo or corn!

Another point brought up is to always, always always...inoculate your legumes if you want maximum N fixation and growth. Even soybeans producers are finding out that there is a yield increase if they add inoculate so keep that in mind.

Over time, intensive use of cover crops has actually changed soil types...something that some old timers will argue vehemently is not possible but none of them have of course used cover crops for decades and compared before and after results.

Lastly the Midwest Cover Crop Council is a great resource for more info on various cover crops

MIDWEST COVER CROPS COUNCIL

from Daves web site...why plant cover crops?

Cover crops:

Improve soil health
Improve yield potential over time
Improve weed control of winter annuals
Reduce erosion
Increase earthworm populations
Improve soil microbiology
Build Soil Organic Matter
Produce and scavenge nutrients
Help you with manure management
Provide excellent grazing opportunities

Cover crop roots, along with the additional earthworms:

Increase soil organic matter
Increase soil porosity
Increase soil aeration
Increase “channels” for future row crop roots to follow
Reduce compaction
Increase nutrient recycling
All of that may help some of you better understand the reasons I use the following mixes to provide year around food sources and...build soils at the same time... :way:

Plant ALL in one plot in strips or blocks

Alice, Kopu II, Durana (or comparable) white clover 10% of plot, sow at 6#'s per acre with the rye combination in the fall or in the spring with oats and berseem clover. Correct Ph and P&K with soil tests

Brassicas in 45% of plot

Purple Top Turnips 3#
Dwarf Essex Rape 2#
GroundHog Forage radish 5#

Plant in mid to late July in most Midwest states, or 60-90 days before your first killing frost, Use 200#'s of 46-0-0 urea and 400#'s of 6-28-28 per acre. Follow the dead brassicas with oats and berseem or crimson clover in mid spring at 60#'s oats and 12-15#'s berseem clover and/or 50#'s of chickling vetch)

Cereal Grain combo in 45% of plot

Winter rye 50-80#'s per acre (56#'s = a bushel)
Spring oats 80-120#'s per acre (32#'s = a bushel)
Austrian Winter Peas or 4010/6040 Forage peas 20-80#'s per acre
Red Clover 8-12#'s per acre or white clover at 6#'s per acre (or 20-40 pounds hairy vetch and 20-30#'s crimson clover on sandy soils)
Groundhog Forage Radish 5#'s per acre

Plant in late August to early September, if following well fertilized brassicas use 100 - 200#'s of urea, if starting a new plot add 400#'s of 6-28-28

Rotate the brassicas and rye combo each year
 
That info above is something every food plotter to veteran farmer should be looking thru. I just watched the videos as well. take your time sucking in that info. tremendous!!!
 
July 30th, 2012

I shared in the brassica thread the stark contrast between brassica germination in areas that were planted to winter rye last fall and those that were not despite an ongoing severe drought....

Without cereal rye...no germination

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Where winter rye and red clover was planted last fall...we have liftoff!

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We are desperately short on moisture and face a serious ongoing drought expected to last well into mid fall but no worries...it's rye to the rescue! Not only will winter rye grow on a brick, with very little rainfall and on very poor soils but it keeps on working long after it is dead! Note in previous posts on cover crops how other crops will follow the rye root channels nearly 4 feet into the soil and the nearly 2 ton of above ground biomass combined with the massive underground root systems provide an incredible amount of organic matter that holds moisture and nutrients like a sponge!

Fields where we had not had rye previously (because they were in ag crops) failed to produce a crop of brassicas during last summers drought, yet those same fields following rye this year have brassicas popping up with very little rainfall.

To some...a crop of standing rye and red clover might be intimidating but it is a golden and bountiful harvest to me!

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For those with very small ATV discs and mowers, killing the rye early in the spring and mowing on;y the clover would be best, but for those with tractor operated equipment...the rye/red clover mix is outstanding for both whitetails and soils!

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Red clover is far more drought resistant then white clovers and it too takes advantage of the soil moisture held in by the rye roots to keep on growing right thru the drought...

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After mowing the straw and mature clover, the red clover will still keep attracting deer AND...fixing nitrogen...FREE nitrogen (seed cost aside)

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Right now, in my area urea is around $25 a bag! 200#'s costs $100 an acre! Gieesh! Red clover can fix between 80-130#'s of nitrogen, often eliminating the need for expensive synthetic fertilizers!

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When clovers go to seed however they stop fixing nitrogen, so one way around that is to clip off the seedheads and re-start the process!

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Red clover (like alfalfa) is best off mowed short rather then the tops clipped like white clover so now is a good time to shred the rye straw and mow the clover!

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From a distance it looks like a field of rye..but the red clovers have been growing since last fall and coexist well with the rye

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the rye straw helps conserve precious soil moisture in summer droughts and the red clover will take advantage of that and quickly re-grow and that allows us to feed our deer and build soils simultaneously

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Deer have bedded all summer in the towering rye and feasted on the succulent red clover, beds are common and growing fawns burst from their hideaways as I mow!

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Normally the rye/red clover portion of the plot would have already been tilled under and planted to brassicas but these fields last year did not have a successful crop of brassicas, simply because of lack of rain and very low organic matter. I simply re-planted the rye mix and we had plenty of great food sources last fall and much better soils this summer!

rc7-1.jpg


Hopefully your brassicas will grow this summer but it they fail....go right back and re-plant the rye mix and take advantage of the fertilizer you applied for the brassicas. The rye, oats, peas, radish and clover mix is incredibly attractive and every field we planted was covered up in deer last fall. Take further advantage of the amazing soil building attributes of winter rye by broadcasting it into standing soybeans and corn in late August...the rye can provide a food source thru the winter months and leave behind some vastly improves soils in the spring.

Seed, fertilizer and planting time requirements listed below but remember that the actual amount of seed and fertilizer needed can vary and less or no fertilizer may be used for the rye mix which offset the higher seed costs compared to the brassica mix where low seed costs and higher fertilizer costs are involved....

Plant ALL in one plot in strips or blocks

Alice, Kopu II, Durana (or comparable) white clover 10% of plot, sow at 6#'s per acre with the rye combination in the fall or in the spring with oats and berseem clover. Correct Ph and P&K with soil tests

Brassicas in 45% of plot

Purple Top Turnips 3#
Dwarf Essex Rape 2#
GroundHog Forage radish 5#

Plant in mid to late July in most Midwest states, or 60-90 days before your first killing frost, Use 200#'s of 46-0-0 urea and 400#'s of 6-28-28 per acre. Follow the dead brassicas with oats and berseem or crimson clover in mid spring at 60#'s oats and 12-15#'s berseem clover and/or 50#'s of chickling vetch)

Cereal Grain combo in 45% of plot

Winter rye 50-80#'s per acre (56#'s = a bushel)
Spring oats 80-120#'s per acre (32#'s = a bushel)
Austrian Winter Peas or 4010/6040 Forage peas 20-80#'s per acre
Red Clover 8-12#'s per acre or white clover at 6#'s per acre (or 20-40 pounds hairy vetch and 20-30#'s crimson clover on sandy soils)
Groundhog Forage Radish 5#'s per acre

Plant in late August to early September, if following well fertilized brassicas use 100 - 200#'s of urea, if starting a new plot add 400#'s of 6-28-28

Rotate the brassicas and rye combo each year
 
Paul,

In your last post you talk about adding rye to your beans in late August??

I was under the impression that you had to wait until they started to change colors to

add the rye?
 
Paul,

In your last post you talk about adding rye to your beans in late August??

I was under the impression that you had to wait until they started to change colors to

add the rye?

That is usually when most beans are turning but it depends on the maturity level planted Tony...generally late August thru early September is about right.;)
 
I have planted an acre with oats and a mix of crimson and berseem clover this spring...I am planning on disking that under in about two-three weeks and planting the rye mix...the field was brassicas last year...how much fertilizer would you recommend for the rye mix on that acre? The soil ph is already 6.5.
 
I have planted an acre with oats and a mix of crimson and berseem clover this spring...I am planning on disking that under in about two-three weeks and planting the rye mix...the field was brassicas last year...how much fertilizer would you recommend for the rye mix on that acre? The soil ph is already 6.5.

I like to add 100#'s of urea as all of those components of the rye mix will respond well to nitrogen although it's not necessary for the peas.

This is assuming that you have brought P&K levels up to par already, if not add per soil test. Typically I fertilize brassicas heavily with 400#'s of 6-28-28 and 200#'s of urea and then when i rotate to the rye mix I only add the urea...so it depends on what stage you are at in the rotation and on P&K levels...
 
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