loneranger
Well-Known Member
This is a good question. I have to use a weed whip. What,,is,, the optimum height to keep your clover plot?
Clover
- Thread starter dbltree
- Start date
Central Iowa
Life Member
Cut back to 4 to 6" on existing. Let new get to 6" and then cut back to 3" Using a lawn mower or weed eater you will have to experiment a little to see what gives you the best results.
Ghost
Life Member
The key to cutting clover is your timing which I don't see mentioned.
This time of year, be careful when you mow. If it is very dry and stressed, mowing is not a great idea. Try to plan on mowing right before or right after a forecasted rain for best results.
I've mowed mine four times this year and it needs it again now.
I don't plan on mowing after August 1st so there is a thick weedless stand going into the Fall. /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
This time of year, be careful when you mow. If it is very dry and stressed, mowing is not a great idea. Try to plan on mowing right before or right after a forecasted rain for best results.
I've mowed mine four times this year and it needs it again now.
I don't plan on mowing after August 1st so there is a thick weedless stand going into the Fall. /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
dbltree
Super Moderator
You can use rye, it works far better then wheat. Oats also work well as they will kill out over the winter.
Some folks just leave it mature the next spring and clip it all when it's time to clip the clover for the first time.
No it won't kill chicory...only grasses, but I suggest Select over Poast.....
Some folks just leave it mature the next spring and clip it all when it's time to clip the clover for the first time.
No it won't kill chicory...only grasses, but I suggest Select over Poast.....
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I did it and wish I had found Doubletree first because I planted it too thick and then couldn't get it mowed due to some other problems. Still looks pretty good for the most part but I think the rye ended up being more bedding and for birds than a food source. Looks like straw in my clover now.
dbltree
Super Moderator
If you look back in this thread...I planted several different types (brands) of clover this spring...but then wasn't able to maintain them all summer.
I was finally able to mow the weeds and look them over...here's what NOT to do...
Ragweed as high as the tractor!
I mowed it down...
but waiting this long creates heavy windrows of weeds/grass which can smother clover seedlings.
Just a little lesson on why "timely" clipping of new spring seedings is important.
I'm not able to tell you how the clovers compared under ideal conditions with the best of care...but rather the opposite.
Under worst conditions with no care all summer, the Imperial, Tecomate and Mossy Oak brands were almost complete failures.
Those three looked like this...in the very best spot I could find...
The Duranna and the Alice/Kopu 2 mix from Welter Seed did very well all things considering
Before mowing the Duranna looked like this:
and after mowing:
The Welter Mix looked very good also...
I was unable to locate any Grazer Alfalfa but the 3 clovers in the Welter mix, were doing very well despite the heavy weed canopy.
This is the Alice White clover I planted last August...
Now you see why I prefer late summer seedings...to avoid the weed problems...
This patch was being grazed hard...
This is 2 year old Alice clover...
White clover is awesome forage and works great in food plots and by using the frost seeding method one can plant it with virtually no equipment other then a sprayer and a hand seeder.
I have small plots planted over a period of three years so that as each plot starts to thin I can take advantage of the nitrogen and plant brassicas.
Then I can rotate back to clover if I choose. Something to keep in mind...make use of Mother Natures "gifts" of free fertilizer!
I was finally able to mow the weeds and look them over...here's what NOT to do...
Ragweed as high as the tractor!
I mowed it down...
but waiting this long creates heavy windrows of weeds/grass which can smother clover seedlings.
Just a little lesson on why "timely" clipping of new spring seedings is important.
I'm not able to tell you how the clovers compared under ideal conditions with the best of care...but rather the opposite.
Under worst conditions with no care all summer, the Imperial, Tecomate and Mossy Oak brands were almost complete failures.
Those three looked like this...in the very best spot I could find...
The Duranna and the Alice/Kopu 2 mix from Welter Seed did very well all things considering
Before mowing the Duranna looked like this:
and after mowing:
The Welter Mix looked very good also...
I was unable to locate any Grazer Alfalfa but the 3 clovers in the Welter mix, were doing very well despite the heavy weed canopy.
This is the Alice White clover I planted last August...
Now you see why I prefer late summer seedings...to avoid the weed problems...
This patch was being grazed hard...
This is 2 year old Alice clover...
White clover is awesome forage and works great in food plots and by using the frost seeding method one can plant it with virtually no equipment other then a sprayer and a hand seeder.
I have small plots planted over a period of three years so that as each plot starts to thin I can take advantage of the nitrogen and plant brassicas.
Then I can rotate back to clover if I choose. Something to keep in mind...make use of Mother Natures "gifts" of free fertilizer!
Last edited:
dbltree
Super Moderator
Here's a couple pictures of Alice White Clover in November because IMO it's not the best draw for late fall early winter hunting.
I have several plots right next to my alfalfa, small plots of rye/oats and plenty of corn and soybeans. They eat the clover but look at this runway going right thru the clover to the alfalfa it's planted next too.
I really like clover for an early spring high protien food source and if it's the only "green" source of feed on your place in the fall, they will hit it hard.
I just wanted to show a comparison and other things to consider when deciding what plots to plant. Clover is much easier to plant and manage then alfalfa and can last 3-5 years compared to fall grains that need to be planted each fall. It's a great option for some but perhaps not the best for...all.
Earlier in this thread I posted comparisons for "big name" clovers and I found under difficult conditions that Durana and Alice White Clover from Welter Seed Co. performed the best for me. I haven't noticed any difference in usage except the obvious...if the clover is lush and growing well...deer are going to be more attracted to it.
Planted properly they will all do well and attract whitetails and longbeards! /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
I have several plots right next to my alfalfa, small plots of rye/oats and plenty of corn and soybeans. They eat the clover but look at this runway going right thru the clover to the alfalfa it's planted next too.
I really like clover for an early spring high protien food source and if it's the only "green" source of feed on your place in the fall, they will hit it hard.
I just wanted to show a comparison and other things to consider when deciding what plots to plant. Clover is much easier to plant and manage then alfalfa and can last 3-5 years compared to fall grains that need to be planted each fall. It's a great option for some but perhaps not the best for...all.
Earlier in this thread I posted comparisons for "big name" clovers and I found under difficult conditions that Durana and Alice White Clover from Welter Seed Co. performed the best for me. I haven't noticed any difference in usage except the obvious...if the clover is lush and growing well...deer are going to be more attracted to it.
Planted properly they will all do well and attract whitetails and longbeards! /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
dbltree
Super Moderator
Re: Clover - Herbicide and Mowing
Weed control is a long ways off but for those that are just planting clover for the first time...it's helpful to have some information on weed control and maintaining your clover plot before spring rolls around.
I think first choice for grass control in clover and alfalfa is Select EC
followed by Poast Plus
Some people have been less then satisfied with Poast Plus but so far I have heard few complaints about Select other then the price! /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
List of herbicides for alfalfa and clover: Herbicides for Clover and Alfalfa
Broadleaf control requires 2-4DB (NOT 2-4D!!)so use something like Butyrac 200 Usually mowing/clipping will take care of broadleaves but it won't do the trick for grasses.
You can find many of these on Ebay but all should be available at your local ag supply dealer.
Looking back in this thread you can see the problem with waiting to long to mow...if you use a rotary type cutter (brush hog) you'll end up windrowing the clover which can cause some suffocating.
Mow frequently and raise the mower to clip 6-8 inches high will help. Using flail type mowers will take care of that problem but they are pretty pricey if you already have an old mower handy and only a small plot to maintain.
JD Flail Mower
Weed control is a long ways off but for those that are just planting clover for the first time...it's helpful to have some information on weed control and maintaining your clover plot before spring rolls around.
I think first choice for grass control in clover and alfalfa is Select EC
followed by Poast Plus
Some people have been less then satisfied with Poast Plus but so far I have heard few complaints about Select other then the price! /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
List of herbicides for alfalfa and clover: Herbicides for Clover and Alfalfa
Broadleaf control requires 2-4DB (NOT 2-4D!!)so use something like Butyrac 200 Usually mowing/clipping will take care of broadleaves but it won't do the trick for grasses.
You can find many of these on Ebay but all should be available at your local ag supply dealer.
Looking back in this thread you can see the problem with waiting to long to mow...if you use a rotary type cutter (brush hog) you'll end up windrowing the clover which can cause some suffocating.
Mow frequently and raise the mower to clip 6-8 inches high will help. Using flail type mowers will take care of that problem but they are pretty pricey if you already have an old mower handy and only a small plot to maintain.
JD Flail Mower
dbltree
Super Moderator
Re: Clover - Spring Seeding
I recently had a great set of questions regarding planting spring clover so I thought I would re-post them here:
1.) For spring clover, what's the rule of thumb for when to plant in central Iowa and when should lime and fertilizer be applied in relation to the seed itself?
Plant as early as you can work the ground and not work it wet. You can put lime on right now (as soon as you do a soil test and confirm PH)
Fertilizer can be put on as you do the finish tilling.
2.) Any rule of thumb for when to apply the first herbicide application?
You have several options with clover...
You can plant oats to control weeds at first and clip the oats before they get to heavy.
Clip the weed growth in the new clover (clip it above the clover at first)
Poast Plus or Select will control grasses only and may not be needed the first year. You can even kill the oats with herbicide but herbicide is expensive and I have never ever used it in the seeding year, however I normally seed in late summer to minimize weed problems.
3.) Any rule of thumb for when to do the first mowing? I plan to mow often because we already maintain these areas regularly by mowing.
I clip/mow 2-3 times as year as needed and depending on weed/grass problems. White clover doesn't get real tall compared to red clover or alfalfa and when it starts flowering it's not going to get much taller.
Just monitor it use some common sense/good judgment on the mowing.
4.) Will I need to refertilize during the growing season? If so, what type of fertilizer and how much?
If you fertilize at seeding per soil test you really shouldn't need any more until the following spring or late fall.
200-300#'s of 6-24-24 will most likely keep your clover lush and healthy every year. Remember your not harvesting the clover and removing 3-5 tons per acre as with alfalfa so once soil fertility has been achieved it's pretty easy to maintain.
5.) Is it a good idea to overseed a clover plot in late winter, much like frost seeding except you're doing it to an already existing stand of clover to thicken it up? Good idea or waste of money?
If you start a good seeding then adding more seed is pretty much a waste of time and money. If your seeding doesn't turn out so well due to poor weather such as drought, then frost seeding won't hurt a thing.
A good clover stand should last 3-5 years with good weed control and fertility. At that point I prefer to till the clover under and plant brassicas to utilize the nitrogen produced by the clover. Tyring to keep it going by frost seeding might work but it's something I haven't tried. I believe in rotating crops and breaking the disease/bug cycle.
6.) Should I add anything to the mix outside of white clovers? I guess I'm wondering if there's a companion crop that might help with early weed control and allow the clover to come up behind it. I was considering using Berseem for this but perhaps there's something better, keeping the spring planting time in mind.
Oats is the most common nurse crop and berseem can be used along with oats. Imperial Clover seed mixes contain a heavy mix of berseem because it comes on thick and heavy the first year. Berseem is an annual and dies out after the first year so it depends on the value to cost ratio compared to oats.
7.) And kind of related to the last question, do you think there's a big advantage to mixing various clovers for diversity such as Alice with Jumbo with Kopu, etc. or do you think it's just as wise to pick one winner and stick with it?
I have done both and both have done very well. Half the fun for me is mixing my own "concoctions" and see what happens. Some of my test plots will be second year in 2008 and I hope to have better comparisons. Alice...straight up or in a mix..6 a one 1/2 dozen of the other as they say... /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
Different varieties have different attributes and one may out perform another under different conditions which makes a mix less likely to fail. Alice has never failed for me under any and all types of growing conditions and deer love it...so take it from there.
Having said all that....I still prefer late summer clover and alfalfa seedings.
Add oats for an early fall foodplot...no weeds...no herbicide...no wet springs to fight...plenty of time to get lime on...no muss...no fuss...but that's just me... /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
I recently had a great set of questions regarding planting spring clover so I thought I would re-post them here:
1.) For spring clover, what's the rule of thumb for when to plant in central Iowa and when should lime and fertilizer be applied in relation to the seed itself?
Plant as early as you can work the ground and not work it wet. You can put lime on right now (as soon as you do a soil test and confirm PH)
Fertilizer can be put on as you do the finish tilling.
2.) Any rule of thumb for when to apply the first herbicide application?
You have several options with clover...
You can plant oats to control weeds at first and clip the oats before they get to heavy.
Clip the weed growth in the new clover (clip it above the clover at first)
Poast Plus or Select will control grasses only and may not be needed the first year. You can even kill the oats with herbicide but herbicide is expensive and I have never ever used it in the seeding year, however I normally seed in late summer to minimize weed problems.
3.) Any rule of thumb for when to do the first mowing? I plan to mow often because we already maintain these areas regularly by mowing.
I clip/mow 2-3 times as year as needed and depending on weed/grass problems. White clover doesn't get real tall compared to red clover or alfalfa and when it starts flowering it's not going to get much taller.
Just monitor it use some common sense/good judgment on the mowing.
4.) Will I need to refertilize during the growing season? If so, what type of fertilizer and how much?
If you fertilize at seeding per soil test you really shouldn't need any more until the following spring or late fall.
200-300#'s of 6-24-24 will most likely keep your clover lush and healthy every year. Remember your not harvesting the clover and removing 3-5 tons per acre as with alfalfa so once soil fertility has been achieved it's pretty easy to maintain.
5.) Is it a good idea to overseed a clover plot in late winter, much like frost seeding except you're doing it to an already existing stand of clover to thicken it up? Good idea or waste of money?
If you start a good seeding then adding more seed is pretty much a waste of time and money. If your seeding doesn't turn out so well due to poor weather such as drought, then frost seeding won't hurt a thing.
A good clover stand should last 3-5 years with good weed control and fertility. At that point I prefer to till the clover under and plant brassicas to utilize the nitrogen produced by the clover. Tyring to keep it going by frost seeding might work but it's something I haven't tried. I believe in rotating crops and breaking the disease/bug cycle.
6.) Should I add anything to the mix outside of white clovers? I guess I'm wondering if there's a companion crop that might help with early weed control and allow the clover to come up behind it. I was considering using Berseem for this but perhaps there's something better, keeping the spring planting time in mind.
Oats is the most common nurse crop and berseem can be used along with oats. Imperial Clover seed mixes contain a heavy mix of berseem because it comes on thick and heavy the first year. Berseem is an annual and dies out after the first year so it depends on the value to cost ratio compared to oats.
7.) And kind of related to the last question, do you think there's a big advantage to mixing various clovers for diversity such as Alice with Jumbo with Kopu, etc. or do you think it's just as wise to pick one winner and stick with it?
I have done both and both have done very well. Half the fun for me is mixing my own "concoctions" and see what happens. Some of my test plots will be second year in 2008 and I hope to have better comparisons. Alice...straight up or in a mix..6 a one 1/2 dozen of the other as they say... /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
Different varieties have different attributes and one may out perform another under different conditions which makes a mix less likely to fail. Alice has never failed for me under any and all types of growing conditions and deer love it...so take it from there.
Having said all that....I still prefer late summer clover and alfalfa seedings.
Add oats for an early fall foodplot...no weeds...no herbicide...no wet springs to fight...plenty of time to get lime on...no muss...no fuss...but that's just me... /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
dbltree
Super Moderator
Re: Clover - Spring Seeding
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Blaster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">dbltree,
I had to re-seed late fall due to the floods. The clover only got about 1-2in tall. Will this make it though this winter. I was thinking of frost seeding over some of it to make sure it was full this spring. </div></div>
It should be fine but if you only have an acre or two then frost seeding $20 worth of clover would be cheap "insurance" /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Blaster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">dbltree,
I had to re-seed late fall due to the floods. The clover only got about 1-2in tall. Will this make it though this winter. I was thinking of frost seeding over some of it to make sure it was full this spring. </div></div>
It should be fine but if you only have an acre or two then frost seeding $20 worth of clover would be cheap "insurance" /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
dbltree
Super Moderator
Re: Clover / seed selection and planting
We have been discussing the attributes of various clover seed and seed mixes on another thread so I thought I would repost this here.
My sole purpose here is give knowledge and help fellow "food plotters" avoid failure...something I have done plenty of in my lifetime... /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif
Before you order seed ask on this forum and learn more about what is in a "bag of seed". There will be many vendors at the Iowa Deer Classic all with many types of quality seed but I urge you to know exactly what you are buying. Talk to the vendors for specific seed type that will work in your situation. Most will be very helpful...IF...you know what to ask.
These are major brands that I planted and reading back thru this thread may help you decide which clover or clover chicory mix to plant. Based soley on seed type/content I liked the Tecomate commercial mix best but based on performance I prefered the Alice brand clover in my personal planting.
Cut and paste the seed contents and save for reference. If you try or have tried any of these please share your results with us. It's all quality seed...I'm just from the old sod and try to save a buck will getting more "bang" for it! /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
Imperial Whitetail Clover
32.46% Wina Brand Berseem Clover
15.92% Advantage Ladino Clover
8.66% Insight Ladino Clover
8.62% Wina Brand Ladino Clover
33.80% Seed Coating
4#'s at $29.99 plus shipping is nearly $8.00 a pound or $60 per acre for seed.
Tecomate Monster Mix
24.98% Barblanca White Clover
19.63% Forage Feast Chicory
16.48% Tripoli White Clover
9.88 % Manna Berseem Clover
9.84 % Mammoth Red Clover
18.54% Coating Material
$29.99 for 4.5#'s is 6.45 a pound (1/2 acre)$60.00 per acre for seed.
Biologic New Zealand Clover Plus
15.45% Border Balansa Clover (annual)
14.25% Tigri Berseem Clover (annual)
13.10% Rivendel White Clover
7.86% Kenland Red Clover (lasts approx. 2 years)
5.15% 6 point Chicory
4.50% Timaru 2 Chicory
3.85% Waimak White Clover
3.35% Temuka White Clover
31.92% Inert Matter (coating material)
$19.99 for 2#'s $10 a pound (they say use (9#'s per acre)$90 per acre for seed.
Border Balansa Annual Clover
Origin and Breeding
Was bred by SGA and is a very prolific annual clover suitable for mixed and difficult soil types. Border is quick maturing (105 days to 50% flowering) and is suitable for grazing or single cut forage production. It has highly perfumed white flowers.
Berseem clover is an annual clover that is very inexpensive seed available from a source such as Welters
Durana White Clover
Seed Source
I made up my own mix of the following clover and alfalfa from Welter Seed
I went heavy on the Alice and a little heavier then reccomended on total seeding rate using 1/2 Alice and then approx. equal % of the other clovers and alfalfa.
Example: 2# Alice,1# Kopu 1# Jumbo, 1# Grazer (mix and match straight up /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif )Alfalfa alone should be seeded much heavier...
A simple mix for the beginner whould be to use 4-6# of Alice White Clover and 2#'s of Oasis Chicory. Most of my own clover seedings are straight Alice... /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
4#'s Alice at $4.45 and 2 #'s chicory at $6.95 = roughly $30-40 an acre and Alice is coated with Apron as well.
Alice White Clover
Kopu II White Clover
Jumbo Ladino White Clover
Grazer Brand Alfalfa
You can add Berseem Clover if you choose.
add chicory at 2#'s per acre...
Oasis Forage Chicory
Puna Chicory
They pay 1/2 the shipping on legumes and most is already inoculated, however for 4 bucks...I add fresh Clover Inoculate
This seed mix was $3.65 a pound and contains NO cheap annual or red clovers.
Clover seed planting rates are 2-4#'s per acre and you can add 2-6#'s of Berseem clover at roughly $1.65 a # if you want a quick annual clover. Oats are much cheaper, provide a great cover crop and a lush quick food plot, spring or fall to feed deer.
Frank Forage Oats use 80-120#'s per acre for a cover crop. In the fall it will freeze off but if spring planted you may want to clip it before it get's too heavy and tall.
I haven't had any problems leaving oats and rye standing until they mature and then clipping it 8-10" high.
All of the seed was pre-inoculated but I added fresh.
Mix a very small amount of water to just moisten the seed and stir in the inoculant which looks like peat.
We tilled several times and broadcast about 2 bushel per acre of oats, then ran the cultipacker over it.
Before broadcasting the clover seed it looked like this:
I then broadcasted the clover seed onto the firmly packed soil surface and re-packed it to cover it.
A cultipacker, lawn roller or ATV tires are very important when planting clover...press it in...don't drag it or you will bury it.
I tilled in fertilizer...ph was ok.
We have been discussing the attributes of various clover seed and seed mixes on another thread so I thought I would repost this here.
My sole purpose here is give knowledge and help fellow "food plotters" avoid failure...something I have done plenty of in my lifetime... /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif
Before you order seed ask on this forum and learn more about what is in a "bag of seed". There will be many vendors at the Iowa Deer Classic all with many types of quality seed but I urge you to know exactly what you are buying. Talk to the vendors for specific seed type that will work in your situation. Most will be very helpful...IF...you know what to ask.
These are major brands that I planted and reading back thru this thread may help you decide which clover or clover chicory mix to plant. Based soley on seed type/content I liked the Tecomate commercial mix best but based on performance I prefered the Alice brand clover in my personal planting.
Cut and paste the seed contents and save for reference. If you try or have tried any of these please share your results with us. It's all quality seed...I'm just from the old sod and try to save a buck will getting more "bang" for it! /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
Imperial Whitetail Clover
32.46% Wina Brand Berseem Clover
15.92% Advantage Ladino Clover
8.66% Insight Ladino Clover
8.62% Wina Brand Ladino Clover
33.80% Seed Coating
4#'s at $29.99 plus shipping is nearly $8.00 a pound or $60 per acre for seed.
Tecomate Monster Mix
24.98% Barblanca White Clover
19.63% Forage Feast Chicory
16.48% Tripoli White Clover
9.88 % Manna Berseem Clover
9.84 % Mammoth Red Clover
18.54% Coating Material
$29.99 for 4.5#'s is 6.45 a pound (1/2 acre)$60.00 per acre for seed.
Biologic New Zealand Clover Plus
15.45% Border Balansa Clover (annual)
14.25% Tigri Berseem Clover (annual)
13.10% Rivendel White Clover
7.86% Kenland Red Clover (lasts approx. 2 years)
5.15% 6 point Chicory
4.50% Timaru 2 Chicory
3.85% Waimak White Clover
3.35% Temuka White Clover
31.92% Inert Matter (coating material)
$19.99 for 2#'s $10 a pound (they say use (9#'s per acre)$90 per acre for seed.
Border Balansa Annual Clover
Origin and Breeding
Was bred by SGA and is a very prolific annual clover suitable for mixed and difficult soil types. Border is quick maturing (105 days to 50% flowering) and is suitable for grazing or single cut forage production. It has highly perfumed white flowers.
Berseem clover is an annual clover that is very inexpensive seed available from a source such as Welters
Durana White Clover
Seed Source
I made up my own mix of the following clover and alfalfa from Welter Seed
I went heavy on the Alice and a little heavier then reccomended on total seeding rate using 1/2 Alice and then approx. equal % of the other clovers and alfalfa.
Example: 2# Alice,1# Kopu 1# Jumbo, 1# Grazer (mix and match straight up /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif )Alfalfa alone should be seeded much heavier...
A simple mix for the beginner whould be to use 4-6# of Alice White Clover and 2#'s of Oasis Chicory. Most of my own clover seedings are straight Alice... /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
4#'s Alice at $4.45 and 2 #'s chicory at $6.95 = roughly $30-40 an acre and Alice is coated with Apron as well.
Alice White Clover
Kopu II White Clover
Jumbo Ladino White Clover
Grazer Brand Alfalfa
You can add Berseem Clover if you choose.
add chicory at 2#'s per acre...
Oasis Forage Chicory
Puna Chicory
They pay 1/2 the shipping on legumes and most is already inoculated, however for 4 bucks...I add fresh Clover Inoculate
This seed mix was $3.65 a pound and contains NO cheap annual or red clovers.
Clover seed planting rates are 2-4#'s per acre and you can add 2-6#'s of Berseem clover at roughly $1.65 a # if you want a quick annual clover. Oats are much cheaper, provide a great cover crop and a lush quick food plot, spring or fall to feed deer.
Frank Forage Oats use 80-120#'s per acre for a cover crop. In the fall it will freeze off but if spring planted you may want to clip it before it get's too heavy and tall.
I haven't had any problems leaving oats and rye standing until they mature and then clipping it 8-10" high.
All of the seed was pre-inoculated but I added fresh.
Mix a very small amount of water to just moisten the seed and stir in the inoculant which looks like peat.
We tilled several times and broadcast about 2 bushel per acre of oats, then ran the cultipacker over it.
Before broadcasting the clover seed it looked like this:
I then broadcasted the clover seed onto the firmly packed soil surface and re-packed it to cover it.
A cultipacker, lawn roller or ATV tires are very important when planting clover...press it in...don't drag it or you will bury it.
I tilled in fertilizer...ph was ok.
Ghost
Life Member
Re: Clover / seed selection and planting
And if you listen to Doubletree...you might get lucky and end up with something that looks like this... /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
Before these pictures I overseeded (frost seeded) and added 250# per acre of 6-24-24 in March...this is what happened in April. /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
The bad thing is, if you do really good, be ready to spend some time on the mower...
And if you listen to Doubletree...you might get lucky and end up with something that looks like this... /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
Before these pictures I overseeded (frost seeded) and added 250# per acre of 6-24-24 in March...this is what happened in April. /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
The bad thing is, if you do really good, be ready to spend some time on the mower...
northwoods whitetails
Member
Re: Clover / seed selection and planting
i have been checking out this forum for about 3 weeks and the info i have picked up is unreal. alot of questions have been answered here. i'm three years into a food plot/qdma plan on the property we hunt on and just last year we have seemed to turn the corner ( we shot two 8 points. one of the big factors was the three acres of clover we planted. with no farms within 5 miles, the deer just pounded it from sept until the snow got to deep. lookin to add more acreage in clover along with some eagle soy beans. thanks for all the great tips and advice. waiting for planting season in michigan's beautiful and cold upper peninsula
i have been checking out this forum for about 3 weeks and the info i have picked up is unreal. alot of questions have been answered here. i'm three years into a food plot/qdma plan on the property we hunt on and just last year we have seemed to turn the corner ( we shot two 8 points. one of the big factors was the three acres of clover we planted. with no farms within 5 miles, the deer just pounded it from sept until the snow got to deep. lookin to add more acreage in clover along with some eagle soy beans. thanks for all the great tips and advice. waiting for planting season in michigan's beautiful and cold upper peninsula
dbltree
Super Moderator
Re: Clover / seed selection and planting
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">no farms within 5 miles </div></div>
In a way that's almost a luxery because you don't have to compete for other food sources like we do.
Welcome to IW! /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">no farms within 5 miles </div></div>
In a way that's almost a luxery because you don't have to compete for other food sources like we do.
Welcome to IW! /forum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif