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Herbicides

What's the mix ratio for Gly and Diesel for killing woody shrubs? Ive looked every where and cant find a mix ratio. I have a 2.5 and 20 gallon sprayer

I have never used that combo? I use a 50% gly and water sometimes but generally use Garlon/Remedy/Relegate and dsl to basal bark spray small shrubs and trees. Check the labels on those herbicides for details.

By know most are aware of Keystone Pest Solutions as an online source for most of the herbicides we may need if you can not find it locally. They also often carry smaller quantities if you don't need a 2 1/2 gallon jug of something.

Keystone Pest Solutions

Search "Oust" on their site for instance and you'll find a generic alternative "Spyder" and if you can't find something give them a call and ask for help or encourage them to carry something you may need.

Rural King still has the lowest price on clethodim (for killing grasses in clovers and other broadleaf crops)

Rural King - Clethodim Source

In most cases your local ag co-op will order the herbicides you need but often they may require a 5 gallon case order...check with them first but as with the clethodim, sometimes an online order, even with shipping is less expensive.

ePestSolutions is another online source that carries a huge array of herbicides including Panoramic (for NWSG) with free shipping so check and compare before you order...;)
 
If we are talking about multiflora rose and their cousins, I've had good luck with 2-4D at 4 ounces per gallon with liquid soap like dawn as a sticker. You may have to re apply if it rains. It is cheap enough to see if it works. Tordan would be the nuclear option,in my opinion.

Mike in Pike
 
Oust is used for tree plantings and I also use it to release established switch and other NWSG plantings. One only needs 1-2 ounces per acre and Jef Hodges of TRM will sell it in small quantities of 2 or more ounces. Email: bobwhite@iland.net

Spyder is a generic version and right now the lowest price I have found is at Keystone Pest Solutions

if you locate other sources please share via this thread... ;)
 
July 1st, 2012

In many ways like the pharmaceutical drug industry, herbicide patents expire and generic versions become available for a fraction of the original cost...here are just a couple in which prices have dropped significantly

SFM 75 is a generic version of Oust XP and far less expensive...for pre and post emergence control of most grasses and broadleaves in hardwood and conifer plantings and release of established NWSG (2nd/3rd year minimum)

SFM 75 herbicide source

SFM 75 Label

Quinclorac/Quinstar/Paramount/Drive 75 safe for post emergence control of foxtail, crabgrass and certain broadleaf weeds in NWSG...6#'s of Quinstar is almost half the price then Paramount

Quinstar 75DF source

Paramount/Quinstar/Drive 75 label

Banvel/Oracle/Vanquish (dicamba) post emergence broadleaf control in corn, sorghum/milo/Egyptian Wheat, NWSG etc....toxic to conifers and is often mixed with 2-4D and other herbicides...not necessarily less expensive but just a broadleaf option reminder...

Banvel herbicide source

Banvel label
 
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SFM 75 label says 'DO NOT use any equipment (pumps, booms, tanks,etc) that has been used to mix or spray SFM 75 for applications on ornamentals or CROPS. This is critical in that low rates of SFM 75 can severely injure or kill most crops.'

Anybody have any issues with residual crop injury using the same sprayer?

I have old fields that I have killed off the reed canary and orchard grass with the hope of promoting the native seedbed. The first one I did is mostly goldenrod now, foxtail loves to pop up, pigweed, lambsquarters, thistle and ragweed help fill in. I'm looking for a herbicide or herbicides that will control these weeds and also allow the native seedbed to grow. Any suggestions?

SFM 75 looks like it may work, at 6-8 oz/a my weed problems are taken care of. What can or will regrow? And do I really need another field sprayer due to residuals?

Panoramic maybe, it's labeled for wildlife area restoration/release but there's no goldenrod control. Pendulum is like this also.

Milestone is labeled for restoration but has no grass or goldenrod control.

Bavel fits the bill but controls allot of brush species also and thats where I'd like to get to, brushy regrowth. Think it needs to be incorporated also.

Not sure what else to look at. Thanks for any and all help.
 
Not sure what you mean by the "native seedbed". Problem is there are so many invasive weed and grass seeds floating around that, in my opinion, only way you can get natives like Native Warm Season Grasses to grow is to get the seed bed as clean as possible and then plant a good source of them, correctly. I'd stay away from SFM-75, as that's generic Oust and will keep basically everything from growing. Once you have native grasses established, it'll keep competition away until the natives can do that for themselves. Check out the lengthy thread on suggestions for getting the seedbed cleaned, and then planting natives. A great way is to plan RR soybeans, spray everything dead with Roundup, then again when competition grows back in 4-5 weeks, and then canopied beans should shade everything out after that. Then, frost seed the native grass seed next February, with some other sprays like Atrazine and Roundup when cool season grasses start to emerge.

Hope that helps?
 
Problem is there are so many invasive weed and grass seeds floating around that, in my opinion, only way you can get natives like Native Warm Season Grasses to grow is to get the seed bed as clean as possible and then plant a good source of them, correctly.

Good advice here!

I will add that instead of a frost seed I have had the best luck drillling the natives late in the spring after I have killed off the first flush weeds with round-up. I have never needed to respray a late spring planting.
 
I picked up some Compare and Save 41% gly. The label doesn't mention whether it contains a surfactant and is completely silent on that issue. It says to mix the chemical with water. Some labels with gly specifically state do not add a surfactant to the mix as it will reduce effectiveness. Should I add a surfactant to this such as dish soap, crop oil, or just go with the label directions and not add anything?
 
I picked up some Compare and Save 41% gly. The label doesn't mention whether it contains a surfactant and is completely silent on that issue. It says to mix the chemical with water. Some labels with gly specifically state do not add a surfactant to the mix as it will reduce effectiveness. Should I add a surfactant to this such as dish soap, crop oil, or just go with the label directions and not add anything?

As long as a big rain isn't eminent I wouldn't worry about surfactant but it won't hurt to add it either
 
For you guys that are using the 25 gallon sprayers with booms, what tips are you using? I'm talking brand, type and color for say a 6-8 nozzle setup.
 
XR TeeJet tip no. XR11002. Yellow

These are what came with my 25gal. Fimco sprayer with a 7 nozzle boom.

I run about 30psi. and 5mph.

About how many gallons an acre are you spraying withe those 7 nozzles?
I was thinking I need to go with either the green or yellow tips.
 
About how many gallons an acre are you spraying withe those 7 nozzles?
I was thinking I need to go with either the green or yellow tips.

It depends on how fast you want to drive.

I run 5mph so I'm putting down 10gal/acre @ 30psi.
 
Trev, that's 10 gallons total per acre right? The chart was a little confusing as it had me thinking that each tip was going to put out roughly 10 gallons per acre at 30 psi and 5 mph. So I was thinking it was gonna put down 10 gal x 7 tips= 70 gallons.
 
Be sure to check labels on crop oils as they are not all the same and using to much of a high load co will burn foliage!

Regular crop oil (1 qt per ac)

High load crop oil (use 1 pint or less per acre)

Another caution for ALL herbicides is to check/compare active ingredient % as they may vary widely

Rural King clethodim and Arrow clethodim contain standard 26.4% clethodim

RK clethodim

When inspecting your fields are you noticing annual and perennial grasses in the soybeans? There is no time or manpower to hoe those rows. This is one more aggravation that you just do not need!! Don’t blow your top. There is a solution. This is a job for Tide Clethodim 1 Gallon Selective Post-emergent Herbicide. More specifically, it is a 26.4% solution that contains 2 pounds active ingredient Clethodim per US gallon.

This is a dedicated herbicide that does not control sedges or broadleaf weeds. Seedling and rhizome Johnsongrass and Shattercane will fall with this product, not to mention the volunteer corn that tends to pervade the bean field from last year’s crop.

As we mentioned above this product is for soybeans but also labeled for cotton, alfalfa, leafy, tuberous and fruiting vegetables, sugar beets, peanuts, sunflowers, potatoes, ornamentals, non-bearing fruit and nut trees, and other crops and non-crop areas.

SelectMax contains 12.6% and is often twice the cost!!

Do some research before you buy and get the most bang for your buck!
 
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