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Tree Planting

I like to start the seeds in the express 18 cell trays so I can move them out to the farm soon in early summer. This allows me to plant several seedlings that are root pruned.

I dinked around with some apple seeds from store bought apples and planted them out last summer directly from the 18 cell trays so I will get some pics of how they do this year.

Some I do move from the 18 cell trays to 5-gallon bags, but that is a lot of work to dig holes for 20 of those seedlings :D
 
I was just going to do the same Phil, plant them in the cells and then re-plant them as seedlings but the Rootmaker directions say to start the acorns in flats, check for germination and then move them to the cells.

I understand all of that but for small timey "hobbist" like us that seems like over kill?

It also talks a lot about placing them properly which again I understand but dang that seems like a lot of messing around??

How the heck do they survive when the squirrels plant them! :D

The acorns that have sprouted a tap root in storage...just place them in a downward posistion? The roots curl back upward on some so I'm uncertain exactly how to place them?

here's a pic from RootMaker showing the root and the shoot coming up from the base of the root which kind of explains some things for me

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Here are some chinkapin acorns that a friend is starting and she has been taking pictures of the "shoot" coming out from the base of the root

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I find these very interesting not having actually seen this part of the process?

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Notice the root though...I assume one places the root facing downward as best as possible?

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Interesting stuff! She started these a little to early and it is noted that low sunlight in the winter moneths will impede germination and growth...
 
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Not being one to just accept "just because"...I wonder how the acorn knows that the days are still short when they are buried in dirt? :confused:
 
I would not waste the time to see which ones germinate. Red oak acorns will have started to crack open by spring so it is easy to see which ones are viable. The white oaks will have already sent out tap roots so to me both are easy to see which ones to plant. Here is a pic of some red oak acorns I pulled out of the damp peat from the fridge the other day. It is easy to see that they have germinated and can be planted into the cells to start with.

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Not being one to just accept "just because"...I wonder how the acorn knows that the days are still short when they are buried in dirt? :confused:


It has more to do with the ground temperature from what I have seen. The warmer the ground the faster the growth.
 
The warmer the ground the faster the growth

These acorns that I started are in the house...also in a south window. Maybe it has something to do with the potting soil I'm using. These chinkapin acorn pics that Paul posted were planted on Jan 2...so it is 5 weeks old. It was stored in the fridge from the beginning of October till Jan 2 and hadn't germinated at that point. I wanted to get an early start on a few acorns so I could determine the best time to start the rest...but I don't think I accomplished much by this little test. :thrwrck:I guess I'll try again. :grin:
 
These acorns that I started are in the house...also in a south window. Maybe it has something to do with the potting soil I'm using. These chinkapin acorn pics that Paul posted were planted on Jan 2...so it is 5 weeks old. It was stored in the fridge from the beginning of October till Jan 2 and hadn't germinated at that point. I wanted to get an early start on a few acorns so I could determine the best time to start the rest...but I don't think I accomplished much by this little test. :thrwrck:I guess I'll try again. :grin:


You just simulated early fall type growth for those acorns since they germinate soon after dropping they grow in the fall until the ground freezes and stops them. Had they been planted in a south facing windown with 35 degree temps, you would not see the top growth forming yet. :way:


I used to grow them in the window, but it takes up too much time and does not result in a better end-product IMO so now I just keep them in the fridge and plant them out in spring when the ground thaws.
 
From what I understand with the RootMaker system, one can start the acorns inside in late March and then move them outside ASAP in the spring but I'm still trying to absorb all this information on using the RootMaker cells.

Forest Keeling is another one with some good acorn/oak seedling pictures and information

Forrest Keeling Nursery

They start their acorns in a heated greenhouse in February...;)
 
If you have the space, starting them in March works since they would be growing their roots at that time again after the frost thaws out. I plan on putting the acorns in the cells in mid-late march depending on how cold it is then. :D
 
If you have the space, starting them in March works since they would be growing their roots at that time again after the frost thaws out. I plan on putting the acorns in the cells in mid-late march depending on how cold it is then. :D

I'm tired of cold and snow and ready for an EARLY spring!! :way:

I have permission to start mine in front of the living room windows which are 9' tall and facing south! Should work perfectly to get some acorns off and running.

Course I have to start some flower seed as part of the "deal" but I can live with that...;):D
 
Just bought some 5 inch peat pots to try alongside my express 18 cells and 12 inch root maker bags. Going to plant some veneer quality black walnuts in each and then take them out to the farm later this summer after I have the ground sprayed a couple of times with roundup to kill the sod first and then come back and get any weeds that grow back up in their place.

The advantage of the peat pots are you can just plant the pot and all into the ground and they will turn to compost and the roots will grow out of them just fine so there is absolutely no transplant shock. The downside is you have to buy them every year and cannot reuse them this way. I am just checking to see if there is any transplant shock at all when moving seedlings out of cells or bags, but I do not expect much to change.

Here is what one of the black walnut parent trees looks like I collected from. Very straight with a good central leader even with it growing out in the open. :D


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I took a walk to the farm yesterday and was really suprised to find every single oak seedling was browsed!! That just reaffirms to me why planting oaks and doing TSI is needed in places with high deer densities. Here is a picture of what they all looked like. Kind of hard for them compete with the next generation of trees which deer do not browse.

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I noticed some wild white oaks about 2-3 feet high being heavily browsed to Phil! They are hungry this winter with all the snow and cold so I suppose they'll take advantage of any browse within reach.

I did notice that the Swamp White Oak seedings I planted in the downed (hinged) tops last spring are...safe and sound! :way:
 
I did notice that the Swamp White Oak seedings I planted in the downed (hinged) tops last spring are...safe and sound! :way:

What I find interesting on my property are the swamp white oaks are very very well off. There are lots of mature trees and plenty of small seedlings sprouting in the creek bottom and on the hillsides. There are plenty of mature white oaks, but very very few seedlings. Best I can guess is they are browsed more than the swamp white oaks so less make it. :confused:

I did find 3 more mature northern red oaks that had a pile of caps still hanging on in a secluded area alongside some honey locusts, shingle oaks and elms, so I know what I will be doing next time I am back and I will for sure take before and after pics :way:
 
What I find interesting on my property are the swamp white oaks are very very well off. There are lots of mature trees and plenty of small seedlings sprouting in the creek bottom and on the hillsides. There are plenty of mature white oaks, but very very few seedlings. Best I can guess is they are browsed more than the swamp white oaks so less make it. :confused:

I think your right there. I've had the fortunate/unfortunate experience of dealing with sprouts over the years and do believe it's related to browse preference. In terms of prevelance for us: hickory>elm>ash>blackjack>post oak. Each seem to differ also in ability to recover from browse pressure....guessing post oak is the worst at recovering.

BTW....MIL called yesterday and our order from state forestry arrived yesterday. Guess we'll add a 150 count planting to the weekend slate. Soil moisture couldn't be any more perfect in the uplands right now! :way:
 
BTW....MIL called yesterday and our order from state forestry arrived yesterday. Guess we'll add a 150 count planting to the weekend slate. Soil moisture couldn't be any more perfect in the uplands right now! :way:


Where the heck are you planting this weekend?? The soils on my property are still plenty froze or at least they was a couple days ago. I am sure hoping for a warm up so the seedlings I ordered can be planted in early March. :D
 
In SE OK, we planted 50 each of roughleaf, sand plum, and fragrant sumac and the soil wasn't froze. There is an OK mesonet webpage that gives usefull info such as soil temps at various depth and soil moisture which is a huge benefit when planting anything. Checked last Friday and soil temps were in the upper 30's with no freeze forecast till Tuesday night. OK forestry/NRCS recommends planting bareroots before March 1 in that area. This year one could prolly up that to March 15. Latter part of this week has been cold with some minor surface freeze/thaw. Bermuda will 'wake-up' about mid-March normally....so we warm early down there. Tree planting is new to us so hoping we did things correctly. :confused:

Soil moisture was ideal in upland soil where fragrant and plum were planted. And that is saying something after a 50+" rainfall year. We planted in 'thicket fashion' within hinged tops on the north edge of that wooded plot in my QDMA sanctuary thread. The pointed dibble from Forestry Supply worked well up there in the rock and shallow clay. A neat caveat about a dibble is that you gain knowledge about your soil variation...things to keep in mind when planning burns. Top soil up there is gravely and about 4" with subsoil of yellow clay, which indicates good drainage but 'droghthy' in nature and prolly not the best soil for high forb growth.

Planted dogwood along the bank of a creek bordering a postoak flat 100 yd downslope of the others.Flowering dogwood and a small hackberry were there naturally...the latter is amost exclusive to fertile soils with good water holding potential in that part of the state. Lots of elm and hickory there too for hinging. Soil water table was shallow, but I think dogwood likes that. Topsoil is about 8+" before hitting yellow clay and is a prime burn/forb area. That small flat will end up like a savanna.

The seedlings arrived in good shape, bundled tightly, roots inbibed in peat, and all placed in a thick super heavy feedsack like paper bag. I put some creek water in the bucket to keep roots moist. Took about 2 hr to plant each specie. I was disappointed in seedling size and variation in size. Really needed small ones for the dibble. Fragrant was the largest with all 50 barely fitting my wide mouth bucket. Some of the roughleafs were large and the rootmass on those was very large and fibrous...kinda like the persimmon you grew last year. Plums were about the perfect size. They have a 'Comment' section on the orderform and I should have specified 'dibble' and 'small seedlings'. Guess there is a learning curve with anything! :D

After reviewing the Noble foundation report on browse CP content, the varieties I picked are bottom feeders for July and Aug CP content running about 8% in dry years. The Noble wildlife biologist, who toured the place Monday, is crazy over osage orange (bowdark to us) just like me. Rightly so as CP is 12% or better in late summer and a preferred 'deer candy' during leafdrop in falls with poor hard mast. Fills two critical niches there and creates a 'huntable pattern'. :way: Ok forrestry offers bowdark bareroots and I'll focus on those heavy next year either with plum or dogwood, dpending on how those perform.

NWTF is late geting th tubes out, so I'll need to do that soon too.

I'll post a pic of the seedlings and such on QDMA...your opinions would be much appreciated on what I discussed here and post there.
 
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