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Tree Planting

letemgrow said:
What all species of oaks do you already have?? That can help determine what you can plant since most grow in association with other particular species of oaks. :way:

Say if you have pure white oaks growing then you know the soil is not water logged and well drained since they cannot handle that. Northern red oaks love well drained soils that retain moisture such as north or east facing slopes.
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Sorry for the delay in getting back to you! 95% of our oaks are post and blackjack. Blackjack predominates the poorest of upland soil. The remaining 5% of oaks are: southern red and(or) pin, water, and bigelow which are pretty much exclusive to bottomland.
 
dbltree, I have problems similar to your moldy acorns when keeping apple seeds in the fridge if they are too moist. What I found to work best is just storing the seeds in a plastic bag or container in the fridge without any potting soil or peat moss, nothing but the seeds. First I let the seeds air dry on by spreading them out on some newspaper. I let them dry just enough so they don't "stick" to one another and then put them in the plastic containers in the fridge. Every once in awhile during the winter I open the bag or container and shake them up a bit to give them a "breather". As long as they are in a plastic bag or container in the fridge, they stay just moist enough so they don't lose their ability to germinate. Inside a refrigerator is normally high in moisture so the seeds usually don't dry out anyway. If it looks like they might be getting a little too dry I just add a few drops of water and shake them up a bit to distribute that tiny bit of moisture. Then a week or two before I plant them in the garden (usually early May) I put them in a container and add a bunch of water. Any seeds that are not viable will float (usually not many at all) and I discard them. Then I put the soaking wet seeds back in the fridge for another couple weeks before planting them in the garden. I get awesome germination doing this. I would think if you just kept the acorns in the fridge with no peat moss and no excess moisture, it would work too, but I can't say for sure, I've never tried acorns.


quote:"Fanatic...those pics look awsome! Just wondering if you have problems with spruce beetles?"

No problems with beetles, growing white spruce is trouble free around here.

quote:"WF- man, those pics are AWESOME! I wish I could grow spruce or pines here- I have to basically make a prison around them or they just get destryoed instantly. I have some spruce I fenced in BUT so much work. What a nice situation and habititat you have, great stuff! "

Sligh1, Can you grow red cedar in your area without much trouble like dbltree can? We don't have much of a problem with bucks destroying white spruce like you guys in Iowa! We have a decent number of mature bucks around, but nowhere near what you have in most parts of Iowa! Also, like I said before, the deer here rub red cedar far more than the spruce, I think it's because they like to browse red cedar so they are naturally attracted to red cedar and end up rubbing them more often. I would never recommend planting pines for deer cover. Their lower branches don't get nearly as thick as cedar or spruce and after the pines are about 15 years old they rapidly lose their lower branches, while spruce and cedar hold on to them.

quote:"With this weather it makes me wish I planted even more % of cedars or more of them period. Gotta be one of my favorite trees for deer/wildlife."

Red cedars are deer magnets around here too, esp. from December to end of March. Turkeys also really like them. I wish all (or even half) of the white spruce we planted 12 to 22 years ago were red cedars instead. Back when we planted those, I wasn't as knowledgable about deer and habitat, so when my dad suggested we should plant spruce, we didn't know any better. Not that spruce are bad, but we would have planted some different species if we knew what we do now. At that time we didn't have as many deer or mature bucks around so I'm sure we could have grown the red cedars without much of a problem. We might have even been able to get white cedar to grow then. With all the habitat improvements and food plots, there are far more deer and mature bucks around now and it's hard for us to get red cedars to survive.
 
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Checked the OK forresty page and the following bare roots are available:<TABLE border=1 borderColor=#4f6128><TBODY><TR><TD style="WIDTH: 200px; HEIGHT: 20px">Shrubs </TD><TD style="WIDTH: 150px; HEIGHT: 20px">chokecherry </TD><TD style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; WIDTH: 50px; HEIGHT: 20px; VERTICAL-ALIGN: middle">x</TD><TD style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; WIDTH: 50px; HEIGHT: 20px; VERTICAL-ALIGN: middle"> </TD></TR><TR><TD style="WIDTH: 200px; HEIGHT: 20px"> </TD><TD style="WIDTH: 150px; HEIGHT: 20px">dogwood, roughleaf </TD><TD style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; WIDTH: 50px; HEIGHT: 20px; VERTICAL-ALIGN: middle">x </TD><TD style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; WIDTH: 50px; HEIGHT: 20px; VERTICAL-ALIGN: middle"> </TD></TR><TR><TD style="WIDTH: 200px; HEIGHT: 20px"> </TD><TD style="WIDTH: 150px; HEIGHT: 20px">lilac, common </TD><TD style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; WIDTH: 50px; HEIGHT: 20px; VERTICAL-ALIGN: middle">x </TD><TD style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; WIDTH: 50px; HEIGHT: 20px; VERTICAL-ALIGN: middle"> </TD></TR><TR><TD style="WIDTH: 200px; HEIGHT: 20px"> </TD><TD style="WIDTH: 150px; HEIGHT: 20px">honeysuckle, bush </TD><TD style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; WIDTH: 50px; HEIGHT: 20px; VERTICAL-ALIGN: middle">x </TD><TD style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; WIDTH: 50px; HEIGHT: 20px; VERTICAL-ALIGN: middle"> </TD></TR><TR><TD style="WIDTH: 200px; HEIGHT: 20px"> </TD><TD style="WIDTH: 150px; HEIGHT: 20px">lespedeza, shrub </TD><TD style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; WIDTH: 50px; HEIGHT: 20px; VERTICAL-ALIGN: middle">x </TD><TD style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; WIDTH: 50px; HEIGHT: 20px; VERTICAL-ALIGN: middle"> </TD></TR><TR><TD style="WIDTH: 200px; HEIGHT: 20px"> </TD><TD style="WIDTH: 150px; HEIGHT: 20px">plum, American </TD><TD style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; WIDTH: 50px; HEIGHT: 20px; VERTICAL-ALIGN: middle">x </TD><TD style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; WIDTH: 50px; HEIGHT: 20px; VERTICAL-ALIGN: middle"> </TD></TR><TR><TD style="WIDTH: 200px; HEIGHT: 20px"> </TD><TD style="WIDTH: 150px; HEIGHT: 20px">plum, sand </TD><TD style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; WIDTH: 50px; HEIGHT: 20px; VERTICAL-ALIGN: middle">x </TD><TD style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; WIDTH: 50px; HEIGHT: 20px; VERTICAL-ALIGN: middle"> </TD></TR><TR><TD style="WIDTH: 200px; HEIGHT: 20px"> </TD><TD style="WIDTH: 150px; HEIGHT: 20px">sumac, fragrant </TD><TD style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; WIDTH: 50px; HEIGHT: 20px; VERTICAL-ALIGN: middle">x </TD><TD style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; WIDTH: 50px; HEIGHT: 20px; VERTICAL-ALIGN: middle"> </TD></TR><TR><TD style="WIDTH: 200px; HEIGHT: 20px"> </TD><TD style="WIDTH: 150px; HEIGHT: 20px">vitex </TD><TD style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; WIDTH: 50px; HEIGHT: 20px; VERTICAL-ALIGN: middle">x </TD><TD style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; WIDTH: 50px; HEIGHT: 20px; VERTICAL-ALIGN: middle"></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

I will prolly get roughleaf dogwood, sand plum, and fragrant sumac as each affords browse value in addition to cover....RLD for our bottoms and SP and FS for the uplands. Severe summer drought several years ago pretty much wiped out thickets of those species. Planning to plant within downed tops and dead brush to protect the seedlings during establishment. Is it a wise idea to plant that way or am I dreaming?

They come bundled in 50 count per specie and an order of 150 would be $66 plus $20 S/H. Does that price seem reasonable?

BTW...they have the following oaks: bur, sawtooth, and shumard.
 
Thanks letemgrow! I took chokecherry off the list because of possible toxicity to cattle (cyanide related compound). Bush lespedeza and honeysuckle can be invasive, so omitted those as well. Will look into AP and your MO link.

LC...some of Okie state fact sheets links posted earlier in this thread dodn't seem to work. Here are direct pdf links to all three factsheets in that series. Thanks for all you do, just trying to help! ;)

"Tree planting objectives and the seedling selection process"
http://pods.dasnr.okstate.edu/docushare/dsweb/Get/Document-2516/NREM-5023web.pdf

"Tree seedling availability, planting, and initial care"
http://pods.dasnr.okstate.edu/docushare/dsweb/Get/Document-2538/NREM-5024web.pdf

"Early protection and care for planted seedlings"
http://pods.dasnr.okstate.edu/docushare/dsweb/Get/Document-2521/NREM-5025web.pdf
 
They come bundled in 50 count per specie and an order of 150 would be $66 plus $20 S/H. Does that price seem reasonable?
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That price is in the ballpark but go back to the first page of this thread for a list of nurseries to compare prices. Iowa State Nursery sells them for roughly $40 a hundred plus $5 shipping with a minimum 500 tree order.

Or they have a 200 "Create a Packet" where you can mix and match 4 species for a 100 bucks.

I'll add your links to the first page as well...thanks! :way:
 
letemgrow said:
Out of staters can order from the IA Nursery??
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Unless something has changed you can...:way:

Here's what it says on the order form...

<CENTER>2009-2010 SEEDLING CATALOG ORDER FORM</CENTER>


<CENTER>Call 800-865-2477 www.iowadnr.com/forestry/ Fax 515-233-1131
Mail Iowa DNR State Forestry, 2404 South Duff Avenue, Ames, IA 50010</CENTER>


<CENTER>2009-2010 Seedling Catalog,*.pdf ONLINE ORDER FORM</CENTER><!--<hr> <center>Orders for this fall and next spring will begin on August 1, 2009</center> <hr>


-->



<CENTER>PURCHASE | SHIPPING | PICK UP | PAYMENTS | COST SHARE | CLAIMS</CENTER>
MINIMUM ORDER IS 500 PLANTS except to fill in plantings from the previous year or for Specialty Packets which can be ordered individually.
WHEN ORDERING BY MAIL - DO NOT SEND MONEY with your order. A bill will be sent later. Checks, VISA or MasterCard are accepted.

<TABLE border=1 cellSpacing=0 borderColor=#cccccc cellPadding=2 width=550><TBODY><TR bgColor=#ccffcc><TD colSpan=3>NATIVE IOWA HARDWOODS</TD></TR><TR><TD>Oaks, Hickory, Walnut, Pecan, Basswood</TD><TD>100 plants, 8" to 16"</TD><TD>$40</TD></TR><TR><TD></TD><TD>100 plants, 17" and larger</TD><TD>$55</TD></TR><TR><TD>All other Hardwood species</TD><TD>100 plants, 8" to 16"</TD><TD>$37</TD></TR><TR><TD></TD><TD>100 plants, 17" and larger</TD><TD>$52</TD></TR><TR bgColor=#ccffcc><TD colSpan=3>SMALL TREES & SHRUBS</TD></TR><TR><TD>Elderberry, Dogwoods, Nanking Cherry</TD><TD>100 plants, 8" to 16"</TD><TD>$37</TD></TR><TR><TD></TD><TD>100 plants, 17" and larger</TD><TD>$52</TD></TR><TR><TD>All other small tree and shrub species</TD><TD>100 plants, 8" to 16"</TD><TD>$40</TD></TR><TR><TD></TD><TD>100 plants, 17" and larger</TD><TD>$55</TD></TR><TR bgColor=#ccffcc><TD colSpan=3>EVERGREENS</TD></TR><TR><TD></TD><TD>100 plants, 8" to 16"</TD><TD>$25</TD></TR><TR><TD></TD><TD>100 plants, 17" and larger</TD><TD>$40</TD></TR><TR bgColor=#ccffcc><TD colSpan=3>SPECIALTY PACKETS</TD></TR><TR><TD>Create-A-Wildlife Packet</TD><TD>200 plants, 8" to 24"</TD><TD>$110</TD></TR><TR><TD>Turkey Packet</TD><TD>200 plants, 8" to 24"</TD><TD>$110</TD></TR><TR><TD>Pheasant Packet</TD><TD>200 plants, 8" to 24"</TD><TD>$110</TD></TR><TR><TD>Quail Packet</TD><TD>200 plants, 8" to 24"</TD><TD>$110</TD></TR><TR><TD>Songbird Packet (Price includes shipping)</TD><TD vAlign=top>20 plants, 8" to 24"</TD><TD vAlign=top>$20</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

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TO PURCHASE you must agree:
  • to plant and use the nursery stock requested upon the described property for establishing or improving existing forests, erosion control, game or water conservation with these restrictions;
  • to NOT resell or give these plants away with roots attached to any person, firm, corporation or agency nor to plant any of them for new windbreak, shade or ornamental purposes;
  • to protect all planting from fire and domestic livestock grazing;
  • to forfeit for destruction any trees planted or used in violation of the above restrictions.
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SHIPPING
Orders will be shipped to any address of your choice for $5/100 plants 8-16" tall or $10/100 plants over 17" tall. You can pick the week you would like to have your order shipped. In the fall shipments will start the last week of October and in the spring shipments will start the last week of March. Selections will be made at the time you place the order, so early orders will receive first selection. Weeks in April will become full as we can only physically ship a limited quantity each week. Once your date is confirmed on your invoice, we will do everything possible to ship your order that week, although weather may occasionally make it impossible. Orders must be paid in full before they will be shipped. Please leave a note for the shipper on where to leave them so they will not be in the sun.

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PICK UP AT THE NURSERY IN AMES - You may also pick the week you would like to pick up your order. Once again selections will be made at the time of the order, so early orders will receive first selection. ORDERS must be paid in full before they can be picked up.

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PAYMENTS for spring orders under $100 and all fall orders will be due 2 weeks from the time of order. For spring orders over $100 and less than $1000, only a 20% down payment will be due in 2 weeks. For spring orders over $1000 only a 10% down payment will be due in 2 weeks. The balance will be due March 1. Payments will be nonrefunable for orders cancelled after March 1.

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COST SHARE ASSISTANCE
Contact your District Forester for available programs.

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CLAIMS

Claims for any cause must be made within 10 days after receipt of plants. We give no warranty, expressed or implied, as to the productiveness or life of the material, and we will not be responsible for results or economic losses incurred or claimed by the consumer. <HR>
> ONLINE ORDER FORM


<CENTER>THE STATE NURSERY is supported entirely by its sales of trees and shrubs. There are NO tax dollars used for its operation</CENTER>
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Great, I just found another great place to order seedlings from then...if they are only funded by their sales, then I would take any order I could get!!! :D
 
It says on page 2 of the Iowa state seedling catalog that the trees/shrubs must be planted "upon the described Iowa property..." so a non resident could not buy them and plant them in their home state.

quote:"Chokecherry, RL, AP and FS look like great choices, the prices seem pretty good too. The Missouri Department of Conservation has a TON of shrubs that you may be interested in...here is their website and at least part of them should do pretty well in your area.

http://http://mdc.mo.gov/cgi-bin/mdc...cgi?record=all"

It says only residents can buy from the Missouri state nursery too.
 
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whitetail fanatic said:
It says on page 2 of the Iowa state seedling catalog that the trees/shrubs must be planted "upon the described Iowa property..." so a non resident could not buy them and plant them in their home state.

.
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I don't see where it says "Iowa"??

This is word for word from their catalog?

TO PURCHASE you must agree:
  • to plant and use the nursery stock requested upon the described property for establishing or improving existing forests, erosion control, game or water conservation with these restrictions;
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Guess one could give them a call and find out for certain but there are plenty of nurseries to choose from including Coldstream which has an awesome selection at reasonable prices.

Cold Stream Farm

Remember to check the front page of this thread for a number of links to nurseries across the country...:way:
 
whitetail fanatic said:
http://www.iowadnr.gov/forestry/files/09catalog.pdf

Not sure if this rule has been changed, but when I click on this on page 2 it says it has to be planted in Iowa. Inside the box on the right hand side of the page.
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That's a great link regardless of the "Iowa" thing...I'll add it to the front page!

My local forester tells me that sales at the State Nursery have been steadily dropping so I suspect they would be happy to sell to anyone anywhere but according to that the trees are only available to residents. ;)
 
I'm a day late and dime short on pre-planning for this years tree plantings. Dilema is the herbicide route to use for controlling competition. Read the Oust info here and the label and I keep reading in circles. Don't want to mess up and kill that which is planted. So here is the question.

If I plant trees/shrubs in late Feb, what herbicide route should I use in the first year to eliminate seedling competion? I have glypho, select, and 2-4 dB on hand.
 
dgallow said:
I'm a day late and dime short on pre-planning for this years tree plantings. Dilema is the herbicide route to use for controlling competition. Read the Oust info here and the label and I keep reading in circles. Don't want to mess up and kill that which is planted. So here is the question.

If I plant trees/shrubs in late Feb, what herbicide route should I use in the first year to eliminate seedling competion? I have glypho, select, and 2-4 dB on hand.
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I would just use straight gly before planting but you might consider adding simazine because it is a pretty safe residual and unlikely to cause an harm at all to new seedlings.

Oust is very safe for oaks and conifers but it's a little to potent for shrubs the first year...once established most of them can handle it.

On small plantings you always have th option of doing the "bucket" routine with gly as weeds return later in the summer. Pain in the butt but it is doable...

I just screwed a 2x2 to an upside down plastic 5 gallon pail and walk the row, cover a tree spray carefully around the bucket and move to the next tree. Do it on calm days so spray drift doesn't end up on the next seeding down the row...;)
 
Beginning to put this together.

Thanks LC!

A few gereral questions:

Inre eliminating competition....could I use black landscape cloth (2x2' or 4x4') around the seedlings? I have some on hand. Is carboard still considered a viable option? Moisture preservation may be an issue for us...OK summers are unpredictable.

Ken recommended watering in the seedlings with biopak (glyocoside?? or something lake that) to help the soil capture more water. Anyone use this?

Last question....we have a shovel and posthole diggers for planting. Would it be worth our while to buy a dibble bar? Need a drip-torch so would be placing a Forestry Supply order anyhow.

Okay one more....for your first time doing this, about how much time to plant each seedling and prep the site? Just don't want to get too many plants and end up with more than can be chewed.

That is it for now! :)
 
dgallow said:
Thanks LC!

A few gereral questions:

Inre eliminating competition....could I use black landscape cloth (2x2' or 4x4') around the seedlings? I have some on hand. Is carboard still considered a viable option? Moisture preservation may be an issue for us...OK summers are unpredictable.

Ken recommended watering in the seedlings with biopak (glyocoside?? or something lake that) to help the soil capture more water. Anyone use this?

Last question....we have a shovel and posthole diggers for planting. Would it be worth our while to buy a dibble bar? Need a drip-torch so would be placing a Forestry Supply order anyhow.

Okay one more....for your first time doing this, about how much time to plant each seedling and prep the site? Just don't want to get too many plants and end up with more than can be chewed.

That is it for now! :)
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The black cloth or cardboard can both work well, obviously the cloth will last longer then cardboard but you do have to keep vegetaion killed back or sometimes mice will borrow under the cloth and girdle the trees.

Just something to keep in mind...every thing has pros and cons...;)

I have used all kinds of water retaining type products but the past few years we have been floating in water so I can say for certain how well they work. I think it's worth the cost especially in your area.

For small seedlings the dibble bar is the cats meow but for larger rooted trees they aren't big enough. A dibble bar is by far the fastest method of hand planting...swing by and you can borrow mine...:D

I am guilty of ordering too many seedlings almost every year...even 200 seedlings is a job but well worth the effort. In a long day you can hand plant a heckuva lot of trees but remember the Advil....:rolleyes:
 
I've broke too many spades planting trees in the past. I want to get a dibble bar. I did a google search and came up with many different models. Which one should I get? I'm going to plant 600 18-24" bare root cedars this spring.
Thanks
 
MK M GOBL said:
I've broke too many spades planting trees in the past. I want to get a dibble bar. I did a google search and came up with many different models. Which one should I get? I'm going to plant 600 18-24" bare root cedars this spring.
Thanks
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Mine are handmade and probably 20-25 years old now, couldn't bend one by hand I know that!

HandPlanting.jpg


Something you might consider is having a local welder make one, a heavy pipe or bar welded to a spade and your good to go.

Maybe someone else knows of a good commercial source however? ;)
 
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