dbltree
Super Moderator
I have zero experience with those species
dbltree
Super Moderator
May 13, 2014
Jess & crew planted hundreds of trees this spring including fruit trees from Adams County Nursery, Wildlife Growers and oak and chestnut trees from Forrest Keeling
We try to plant tree orchards that include fruit, chestnut and hybrid oak trees
We also try to keep trees in or around food plots to further increase the adaptation factor. We want whitetails to adapt to coming to one central feeding area 365 days a year, a constant supply of lush forage sweetened with fruit and nut trees will insure they won’t be at the neighbors when hunting season starts.
This is our own farm and Jess planted a combination of Swamp White oaks and Chestnut oaks
These trees are from Forrest Keeling, well started trees in the $13-16 range
We use Miracle vented tubes and 1/2 conduit for stakes
10' stick of conduit is $1.75 and cut in 1/2 = a very inexpensive, yet strong stake
This is the cheapest source I know of
The IDNR recommends Forrest Keeling and Miracle tubes for high survival rates and I agree, far better to plant 10 of these then 100 unprotected seedlings
Jess & crew planted hundreds of trees this spring including fruit trees from Adams County Nursery, Wildlife Growers and oak and chestnut trees from Forrest Keeling
We try to plant tree orchards that include fruit, chestnut and hybrid oak trees
We also try to keep trees in or around food plots to further increase the adaptation factor. We want whitetails to adapt to coming to one central feeding area 365 days a year, a constant supply of lush forage sweetened with fruit and nut trees will insure they won’t be at the neighbors when hunting season starts.
This is our own farm and Jess planted a combination of Swamp White oaks and Chestnut oaks
These trees are from Forrest Keeling, well started trees in the $13-16 range
We use Miracle vented tubes and 1/2 conduit for stakes
10' stick of conduit is $1.75 and cut in 1/2 = a very inexpensive, yet strong stake
This is the cheapest source I know of
The IDNR recommends Forrest Keeling and Miracle tubes for high survival rates and I agree, far better to plant 10 of these then 100 unprotected seedlings
streitl
Member
A buddy of mine and his wife were thinking of me a few weeks back when he got an email forwarded to them about extra oak saplings available for free from an organization in the quad cities area. They were looking for a good home for several thousand trees, and my buddy picked up about 300 for me. There were swamp white, white, burr, and red oak bare root saplings. We planted them over the last two weekends and just last Saturday got them rest of them in the ground and tubed.
I ordered tubes from Mike at Timber Management. They arrived at my door Wednesday after I ordered them Monday. Very prompt service! I got some electric fence posts from Bomgaars for about a buck apiece. They're the 48" tall with 3/8 diameter rod. They work out well. A little more expensive than conduit, but effective. I'm hoping they take off after the work we put in to get them in the ground. This rain assures me though that they'll survive.
I tried to plant some in the hinged areas where there was more sunlght available.
And others were just in open areas that needed something.
Also got ten more fruit trees in the ground from Adams county nursery. 6 apple and 4 pears. This pic was taken towards the end of April, and they have since leafed out. All 10 of the ACN apple trees I planted last year look great too.
I was compelled to share after seeing so many of you post your experiences over the years in this thread. It's such a great resource for me and many others. Thanks everybody for sharing information and also inspiring me to expend so much energy on habitat improvement.
I ordered tubes from Mike at Timber Management. They arrived at my door Wednesday after I ordered them Monday. Very prompt service! I got some electric fence posts from Bomgaars for about a buck apiece. They're the 48" tall with 3/8 diameter rod. They work out well. A little more expensive than conduit, but effective. I'm hoping they take off after the work we put in to get them in the ground. This rain assures me though that they'll survive.
I tried to plant some in the hinged areas where there was more sunlght available.
And others were just in open areas that needed something.
Also got ten more fruit trees in the ground from Adams county nursery. 6 apple and 4 pears. This pic was taken towards the end of April, and they have since leafed out. All 10 of the ACN apple trees I planted last year look great too.
I was compelled to share after seeing so many of you post your experiences over the years in this thread. It's such a great resource for me and many others. Thanks everybody for sharing information and also inspiring me to expend so much energy on habitat improvement.
EatSleepHunt
Active Member
I have a problem with blackbirds perching on the leaders of my spruce trees
and breaking them. Any one have any solutions? Scarecrows, owls? Thanks!
and breaking them. Any one have any solutions? Scarecrows, owls? Thanks!
dbltree
Super Moderator
That's a new one???
dbltree
Super Moderator
Conifers
In our area red cedars are the only conifers that can survive with out fencing but Norway spruce also make great screens and bedding areas. Last years drought caused higher then normal mortality in new tree plantings, so we hand planted cedars to fill in
We ordered from North Central Reforestation
With weed control the tiny seedlings grow 8-12" a year
Normal spacing is 4-8' apart and rows 8' apart but for a screen we often plant thicker and allow them to self thin, do not do this for bedding areas where trees need to be much farther apart
We use Egyptian Wheat as an interim screen and note the weed control
These are 3 year old cedars that didn't get sprayed last year but trees will respond to weed control for 10 year or more
Conifers make the ultimate screen along roads and surrounding plots to keep whitetails feeling safe and more likely to move during daylight hours. Use EW and miscanthus for temporary screens while trees are growing and eventually you'll have a beautiful conifer screen :way:
In our area red cedars are the only conifers that can survive with out fencing but Norway spruce also make great screens and bedding areas. Last years drought caused higher then normal mortality in new tree plantings, so we hand planted cedars to fill in
We ordered from North Central Reforestation
With weed control the tiny seedlings grow 8-12" a year
Normal spacing is 4-8' apart and rows 8' apart but for a screen we often plant thicker and allow them to self thin, do not do this for bedding areas where trees need to be much farther apart
We use Egyptian Wheat as an interim screen and note the weed control
These are 3 year old cedars that didn't get sprayed last year but trees will respond to weed control for 10 year or more
Conifers make the ultimate screen along roads and surrounding plots to keep whitetails feeling safe and more likely to move during daylight hours. Use EW and miscanthus for temporary screens while trees are growing and eventually you'll have a beautiful conifer screen :way:
? I spring planted some DCO and chestnut nuts, they both had 4-6 inches of root growth, and prob 2-6 inches of top growth when i planted, they are tubed, i planted may 1st, im going back home early july to do some stuff, is there any fertilizer that i can give them to give them a boost? or is it too early? also I have some 2 yeard old dunstans, can I give them anything? and one more, i also have a few 1 year old DCO, i will be home for 4 days and plan on watering all 4 days, july in illinois gets a little hot and dry, any help would be appreciated
letemgrow
PMA Member
I would not fertilize in July. That's too late IMO to do that...wait till early spring to fertilize.
I took the tubes off my dco's on year 2-3 and put up fencing instead. 3' tall tubes work great for winter time varmint control (also bare ground) and can be left on for several years after that.
I took the tubes off my dco's on year 2-3 and put up fencing instead. 3' tall tubes work great for winter time varmint control (also bare ground) and can be left on for several years after that.
whats the best spray to kill weeds around my trees? will regular round up work? the trees are tubed, and there are several different types of round up. i also see that round up has some that say they kill for 365 days, and they kill down to the root and also kill off any new vegetation, would that hurt the new trees
dbltree
Super Moderator
i suspect that version might kill or injure trees but glyphosate is safe providing trees are tubed.
Here's what we use for season long control